PROM  THE  CONGO 

TO  THE 

NIGER  AND  THE  NILE 


THE  DUKE  OP  MECKLEISBURG 


FROM  THE  CONGO 
TO  THE  NIGER  AND  THE  NILE 


All  rights  reserved 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/fromcongoniger02adoliala 


^FROM  THE  CONGO 

TO 

THE  NIGER  AND  THE  NILE 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  THE 

GERMAN  CENTRAL  AFRICAN  EXPEDITION 

OF  1910-1911  BY 

ADOLF  FRIEDRIGH 
DUKE   OF    MECKLENBURG 


WITH  514  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FROM  PHOTOGRAPHS  AND  DRAWINGS 

AND  A  MAP 


VOLUME  TWO 


THE  JOHN  WINSTON  CO 

PHILADELPHIA 

1914 


PRINTED  IN  GREAT  BRITAIN   BY 
TURNBULL   AND   SPEARS,    EDINBURGH 


CONTENTS 


Chapters  XIV  to  XVIII 

FROM  FORT  ARCHAMBAULT  TO  THE  NILE 

By  Dr  H.  Sghubotz 

CRAP, 

XIV.  On  the  Shari  and  Ubangi  Rivers 
XV.  On  the  Road  to  Angu 
XVI.  The  Home  of  the  Okapi    . 
XVII.  The  Mangbettu  Country   . 
XVIII.  Towards  the  Nile  . 


PAQX 

3 
13 

24 
39 
59 


Chapters  XIX  to  XXIV 

GERMAN  CONGO  AND  SOUTH  CAMEROONS 

By  Dr  Arnold  Schultze 

XIX.  From  Stanleypool  to  Molundu      .             .  .75 

XX.  Research     Work     in     the     Neighbourhood  of 

Molundu              .             .             .             .  .99 

XXI.  On  the  Road  to  Yukaduma            .             .  .118 

XXII.  Yukaduma  to  Assobam         .             .             .  .138 

XXIII.  Assobam  to  Ebolowa  ....       l65 

XXIV.  Marching  from  Ebolowa  to  the  Coast     .  .194 


Chapters  XXV  and  XXVI 

FERNANDO  PO  AND  ANNOBON 

By  Dr  J.  Mlldbrabo 


XXV.  Fernando  Po 
XXVI.  Annobon 


227 
263 


Index 


279 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


FACING   PAGE 

Akom  Rock,  on   the  watershed   between   the  Congo 
and  Njong  ....       Frontispiece 
Water-colour  by  E.  M.  Heims. 

1.  The  son  of  Ngurru,  Sultan  of  the  Asandes        .  .  8 

2.  Victims  of  sleeping-sickness  in  Yakoma  .  .  8 

3.  Huts  of  the  Asande-Avunguras  ...  9 

4.  Painted  hut  of  the  Asande-Abandjas    ...  9 

5.  Squirrel  with  flying-membranes  .  .  .14 

6.  Hunter  with  the  prepared  skin  of  the  Okapi    .  .         14 

7.  Ocapia  Johnstoni  .  .  .  .  .15 
Okapi  from  the  virgin  forest  near  Angu             .  .         l6 

Water-colour  by  E.  M.  Heirtis. 

8.  The  okapi  exhibited  in  the  Senckenberg  Museum  at 

Frankfurt     ......  22 

9.  Tame  elephants  bathing  .  .  .  .23 

10.  Elephants  ploughing     .  .  .  .  .23 

11.  At  the  station  of  Bambili  on  the  Uelle  .       '      .         30 

12.  Matalani  ......         31 

13.  Ababua  man      ......         SQ 

14.  Abarambo  woman  .  ....         36 

15.  Mangbettu  village  with  oil  palms  .  .  .37 

16.  Mangbettu  with  plaited  beard  .  .  .  .37 

1 7.  Mangbettu  in  bark  aprons         .  .  .40 

18.  Mangbettu  woman  and   child,  with   cords  about  the 

forehead  and  upper  part  of  skull     .  .  .40 

19  and  20.  Coiffure  of  the  Mangbettu  women  .  .         41 

21.  Mangbettu  children  :  the  girl  with  a  deformed  skull    .         42 

22.  Mangbettu  maiden  at  her  toilet  .  .  .42 

23.  Wives  of  the  Mangbettu  ruler,  Okondo  .  .         43 

24.  Nenzima,  Munza's  sister.     25.  Nenzima's  house  .         46 
26.   In  Okondo's  palace        .              .              .              .  .47 

Mangbettu  woman  by  the  fire  .  .  .  .50 

Water-colour  by  E,  M.  Heims. 


viu       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 


FACING  rACB 


27.  Mangbettu  warriors       .  .  .  .  . 

28.  Sultan    Okondo   with   his   four    chief  wives   in   gala 

costume       ...... 

29-71.  Examples  of  Mangbettu  handicraft 

29-33.  Sickles.  34-40.  Bottles.  41,  42.  Pottery.  43-46.  Carved 
wood  stools.  47-49.  Wooden  dishes.  50-57.  Women's  Aprons. 
58-68.  Men's  straw  hats.  69.  Kettle-drum.  70.  Axe.  71.  Ivory 
trumpet 

72.  Mangbettu  lances.     73.  Mangbettu  arrow-heads 

74.  Plaiting  .... 

75.  Okondo  and  his  wives  dancing 

76.  Okondo's  banqueting-hall 

77.  Side  wall  and  roof  of  the  hall    . 

78.  Okondo's  pas  seul  in  the  circle  of  his  wives 

79.  Mangbettu  kettle-drum  of  wood 

80.  Wooded  plain  between  Dangu  and  Faradje 
Family  of  elephants  in  a  bamboo  thicket  near  Lado 

Water-colour  hy  E.  M,  Heims. 

81.  The  Loka  Mountain  in  storm    . 

82.  Rejaf  on  the  White  Nile 

83.  A  splendid  prize  .... 

84.  Among  the  baobab  trees  of  Kinshassa 

85.  Our  camp  near  Kimuentsa 

86.  Abandoned  mission  station  near  Kimuentsa 

87.  Hymenocardia  steppe  near  Kimuentsa 

88.  Steppe   near   Kimuentsa  with    Amaryllides   after   the 

first  showers 

89.  Landscape  in  the  Sanga  delta  . 

90.  Steamer  "  Commandant  Lamy  "  before  Wesso 

91.  Flooded  village  on  the  Djah 

92.  Village  of  Wesso  on  the  Sanga 

93.  Confluence  of  the  Sanga  and  Djah 

94.  Station  of  Molundu  at  low  water 
Q5,  Basanga  women  in  canoe 

96.  Basanga  women  with  leg-rings 

97.  Flooded  forest  near  Wesso 

98.  Papilio  antimachus  drinking.     One-half  natural  size 

99.  Papilio  antimachus  drinking.     One-half  natural  size 

100.  Pygmy  settlement  on  the  Djah 

101.  Gathering  tornado         .... 

102.  Interior  of  a  Mi-Ssanga  house  . 


56 

56 

57 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


IX 


103.  Village  street  of  Molunda  with  fowl-house 

104.  Mi-Ssanga  women  cooking 

105.  Mi-Ssanga  women  at  their  toilet 

106.  Mi-Ssanga  dancer,  after  sketches  by  Dr  Schultze 

107.  Mi-Ssanga  maidens 

108.  Mi-Ssanga  dancer 

109.  Pygmy  settlement  near  Molundu 

110.  Pygmy  playing  on  the  Xylophone 

111.  Pygmies  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Molundu 

112.  Pygmy  women 

113.  Pygmy 

114.  Elk-horn  fern  {Platycerium)  on  a  tree-stem 
11.5.  Bangandu  and  two  Pygmies 

116.  Drooping  net  fungus  (Dic^yopAora) 

117.  Women's  house  in  a  Bangandu  village 

118.  Raphia  frond,  over  22  yards  long,  near  N'ginda 

119.  Charaxes  on  leopard's  dung 

120.  Swallowtails 

121.  Charaxes  castor  . 

122.  Papilio  nircus,  and  Zalmoxis,  drinking 

1 23.  GoUathus  gigantetis  on  Vernonia 

124.  Bangandu  village 

125.  Plantation  N'gusi  in  the  primaeval  forest 

126.  Bangandu  bending  his  crossbow 

127.  Bangandu  crossbowman 

1 28.  Bangandu  at  the  loom  . 

129.  Bangandu  in  bast  aprons 

1 30.  Mausoleum  in  the  village  of  Yukaduma 

131.  Burial  place  of  a  Bangandu  chief  near  Kumilla 

132.  Entrance    to   the    place    of  assembly   of  the   newly 

circumcised  near  a  Bangandu  village 

133.  In  the  Bangi  forest        .... 

1 34.  Pygmy  hut  with  doorway  only  half  a  yard  high 

135.  Pose  of  children  for  play 

136.  The  corpse  of  the  chief  Djaolo  in  Bigondji  lying  in 

state  ..... 

137.  Bokari  woman  with  balloon  cap  and  cock's  tail 

138.  Stem  of  Triplockiton  in  the  Bangi  forest 

139.  Kunabembe  village  in  recently  cleared  forest  . 

140.  Kunabembe  women  with  dossers  near  Yukaduma 


FACING  PAGE 

100 
101 
101 

106 

107 
107 
114 
114 
115 
115 
120 
121 
121 
124 
124 
124 
125 
125 
125 
125 
125 
130 
130 
131 
131 
131 
132 
133 
133 

134 
134 
135 
135 

135 
135 
140 
140 
141 


FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 


141.  Meadowland  near  Yendi 

142.  Plantation  near  Yukaduma 

143.  Aged  Bokari 

144.  Bokari   village,  near   the  northern    boundary   of  the 

forest 

145.  Painted  Yanghere  house 

146.  Round  hut  on  the  forest  boundary 

147.  Bokari  woman  with  cock's  tail  . 

148.  Yanghere  village 

149.  Kaka  men  weaving  mats 

150.  Kaka  man  mending  a  bed 

151.  Kaka  woman  making  basket 

152.  Kaka  women  remaking  hair- pad 

153.  Strangling  fig  in  the  forest 

154.  Old  Tchego.     (Chimpanzee.)    . 

155.  Phoenix  palms  . 

156.  Meadow  land     . 

157.  Station  in  the  forest 

158.  Raffia  thicket     . 

159.  Crossing  the  Bumba 

160.  Giant  creeper  in  the  forest 

161.  Forest  track  on  the  road  from  Djah  to  Bogen 
162  and  l63.  Maka  cannibals 

164.  Tree  ferns  on  the  edge  of  a  swampy  water-course  in 

the  forest 

165.  N'yem  village    . 

166.  Stilt  roots 

167.  Coiffure  of  a  Bule  woman 

168.  N'yem  man 

169.  Coiffure  of  a  N'yem  woman 

170.  N'yem  girls  on  the  Djah 
On  the  Djah,  west  of  Kungulu 

Waier-colour  by  E.  M.  Heims. 

171.  Bule  village 

1 72.  Sso  boys  in  front  of  their  hut   . 

173.  Girl  with  double  ebui    . 

174.  Bule  maidens    . 

175.  The  Masesse  rock 

176.  Bule  woman  Menge  from  Bitje 

177.  Bule  woman  Menje  from  Bitje 


FACING   I'AGB 
144 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


XI 


FACING  PAGE 

178.  Coiffure  of  a  Bule  woman  .  .  .  .       I96 

179.  Tattooing  of  a  Bule  man  .  .  .  .197 
Pangwe  woman  with  helmet  coiffure  and  nose  straps   .       198 

After  crayon-drawing  by  Dr  Schulize. 
Ram  coiffure  of  a  Bule  woman  .  .  .  .198 

After  crayoii-drawings  hy  Dr  SchuUze. 

Pangwe  woman  with  helmet  coiffure     .  .  .       I98 

After  crayon-drawing  by  Dr  Schultte. 

180.  Station  of  Ebolova  from  Bulow  Hill      .  .  .200 

181.  Bule  woman  with  Ram  coiff'ure  and  ebui  .  .       201 

182.  Pangwe  oilpress  .....       201 

183.  Pangwe  dancer  ,  .  .  .  .201 

1 84.  Rattan  thicket  ......        204 

185.  Rock  mass  with  globular  cactus-like  efflorescence         .       204 

The  Boys  Musa  and  Elumo. 

186.  Pangwe  women  with  helmet  coiffure    .              .  .  205 

1 87.  Pangwe  woman  with  helmet  coiff'ure     .              .  .  205 

1 88.  Pangwe  woman  with  helmet  coiffure  and  nose  straps  .  205 

1 89.  Pangwe  woman  with  helmet  coiffure    .             .  .  208 

190.  Pangwe  woman  at  the  hairdresser's      .             .  .  208 

191.  Mountain  landscape  near  Endendem    .             .  .  209 

192.  Undergrowth  with  dwarf  palms.     (Podococcus  Baricrt)  209 

My  boy  Elume. 

193.  Gigantic  root  scaffold  of  a  strangling  fig  in  the  forest  .       214 

194.  Gorilla  lair.     In  the  background  Stepke  and  Undene         214 

195.  Cola  chlamydantha           .              .              .  .              .215 

196.  On  the  N'tem  (Kampo)  near  Ovoung  .  .             .218 

197.  Kom  falls           .             .             .             .  .             .219 

Lobe  Waterfall,  on  the  Batanga  coast  .  .             .       220 

Water-colour  by  E.  M.  Heivis. 

198.  View  of  the  harbour  of  Santa  Isabel  at  Punta  Fernanda       230 

199.  Tree  overgrown  with  parasites  in  the  mountain  forest 

above  Basile  .  .  .  .  .  .231 

200.  Portion  of  a  branch  with  parasites         .  .  .231 

Detail  of  the  above  illustration. 

201.  Mountain  forest  with  tree  ferns,  above  the  shelter-hut 

on  the  peak  of  Santa  Isabel  ....       236 

202.  Ravine  in  the  mountain  forest  on  the  peak  of  Santa 

Isabel  ......       237 

203.  Pasture  region  of  the  peak  with  a  secondary  crater  to 

the  north  of  the  main  summit  .  .  .240 


xii        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 


FACING  PAGB 

204.  View  of  the  "  Cordillera  "  from  the  north  across  the 

Bay  of  San  Carlos       ..... 

205.  In  the  grass-land  of  Moka  .... 

206.  Ravine  in  the  grass-land  of  Moka,  with  tree  ferns  and 

Mimulopsis      ...... 

The  summit  of  the  Peak  of  Fernando  Po,  seen  from 
the  prairie      ...... 

Water-colmn-  by  E.  M.  Heims. 

Mimulopsis  violacea,  a  characteristic  plant  of  the  upper 

forest  in  Equatorial  Africa     . 
Grass-land  of  Moka  with  crater 
,  Mimulopsis  violacea  in   the  grass-land   of   Moka,  tree 

ferns  in  the  background 
,  Tree  ferns  and  parasites  in  the  grass-land  of  Moka 
and  211.  Bubis  of  San  Carlos 
Annobon  from  the  north 


207 
208 

209, 
210 
212. 
213. 
214. 
215. 
216. 
217. 
218. 
219. 
220. 
221. 

222. 
223. 
224. 
225. 
226. 
227. 
228. 
229. 
230. 


Village  of  Pale  with  Mission 

Village  of  Pale  . 

House  of  the  Government  officials  in  Pale 

Mission  :  Pico  do  Fogo  in  background  . 

Crater  lake  with  Pico  do  Fogo  . 

Crater  lake  with  the  high  southern  edge  of  the  crater 

Pico  do  Fogo  on  the  Crater  lake 

Tree  with  parasites  on  the  summit  of  Quioveo 

Island  of  Tortuga,  stratified  and  strongly  eroded  crater 

edge  . 
Summit  of  Santa  Mina  . 
Lava  cliffs 
Beach  of  San  Pedro 
Lava  cliffs  in  the  north-west 
Surf  geyser 

Cliffs  with  calcareous  algae 
Calcareous  algae  and  sea-urchins  in  a  flat  basin 
Steep  coast  to  the  east  with  cavern 
West  coast  with  Bird  Island,  slope  of  Quioveo 


240 
241 

241 

246 


254 
258 


259 
259 
260 
261 
261 
261 
266 
266 
267 
270 
270 
271 

271 

272 
272 
273 
274 
275 
276 
276 
277 
277 


CHAPTERS  XIV  to  XVIII 

FROM  FORT  ARGHAMBAULT 
TO  THE  NILE 

BY 

Dr  H.  Schubotz 


CHAPTER  XIV 

ON  THE   SHARI   AND   UBANGI   RIVERS 

Never  shall  I  forget  the  day  on  which  my  carefully 
thought-out  plan  for  reaching  the  Nile  through  the 
Belgian  Uelle  district  received  the  sanction  of  our 
leader. 

It  was  the  evening  of  the  2nd  of  February  1911, 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Bahr  Sara.  Fort  Archam- 
bault  was  at  that  time  my  headquarters ;  I  was 
on  my  way  back  from  an  expedition  to  the  Niellim 
Mountains,  sixty  miles  to  the  north,  and  I  was  feel- 
ing somewhat  discouraged  at  the  meagre  results  of  my 
zoological  investigations.  I  had  just  completed  a 
long,  tedious  march  across  a  waterless,  sun-scorched 
plain,  and  the  constant  troubles  with  the  bearers 
together  with  the  physical  discomforts  of  the  journey 
had  depressed  my  spirits  to  their  lowest  ebb.  My 
kind  host  in  Fort  Archambault,  Captain  Cross,  not 
realising  the  state  of  affairs  in  the  Sara  district,  had 
allowed  me  to  set  off  without  a  mihtary  escort.  The 
result  was  that  I  had  the  greatest  difficulty  in  per- 
suading the  chiefs  to  supply  me  with  bearers.  They 
never  accompanied  me  further  than  the  next  village, 
and  I  had  no  means  of  detaining  them  by  force.  To- 
day, for  the  first  time  in  all  my  African  travels,  I  had 
been  obliged  to  submit  to  being  carried  in  a  litter. 
A  gastric  complaint,  induced  by  drinking  water  to 
which  an  excessive  quantity  of  alum  had  been  added 


4         FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

as  a  purifying  agent,  made  riding  or  walking  im- 
possible. Weakened  by  illness,  exhausted  by  the 
sweltering  heat,  and  racked  with  pain,  I  presently 
collapsed  altogether,  much  to  the  alarm  of  my  "  boys," 
who  had  hitherto  regarded  me  as  a  most  vigorous 
individual.  They  deposited  me  in  the  shade  of  a 
mimosa  tree,  and  when  I  regained  consciousness  I 
saw  them  standing  whispering  together  with  anxious 
faces. 

They  were  in  a  great  panic,  probably  not  so  much 
from  any  special  affection  for  me,  but  rather  because 
they  feared  that  without  me  they  would  never  reach 
their  distant  homes  in  Togo  and  the  Cameroons.  A 
litter  was  brought,  and  at  a  funeral  pace  we  followed 
the  bearers  to  camp,  which  was  fortunately  not  far 
off,  in  a  tiny  Sara  hamlet  composed  of  only  seven 
huts.  The  chief  was  a  gigantic  man  with  a  good- 
humoured  face,  and  he  seemed  disposed  to  be  friendly. 
He  brought  me  some  fresh  milk  and  a  couple  of  eggs, 
and  by  the  evening  I  felt  well  enough  to  sit  in  a  deck- 
chair  in  front  of  my  tent. 

My  bearers  had  once  more  taken  French  leave,  and 
the  chief  declared  that  he  could  supply  only  seven 
men,  whereas  I  required  at  least  twenty-five.  I  was 
exceedingly  angry.  Not  with  the  natives  for  refusing 
to  act  as  carriers ;  one  could  hardly  blame  them, 
seeing  that  the  money  they  earn  is  of  very  little  use 
to  them ;  neither  did  I  resent  Captain  Cross'  action 
in  sending  me  without  a  military  escort,  for  he  did 
not  realise  the  conditions  prevailing  here,  and  could 
have  no  idea  of  the  difficulties  I  was  to  encounter. 
But  I  felt  embittered  against  the  "  red  tapists  "  who 
sit  in  their  comfortable  offices  and  preach  humanity ; 
I  wished  they  could  spend  a  few  days   travelling  ii\ 


ON  THE  SHARI  AND  UBANGI  RIVERS         5 

this  country,  left  to  their  own  devices  and  obliged 
to  procm-e  bearers  as  well  as  food  for  themselves  and 
their  men.  They  would  very  soon  discard  all  their 
poUteness  and  humanitarian  ideas,  which  the  very 
natives  despise.  "  Might  is  right "  must  be  the 
motto  of  every  intending  colonist ;  a  hundred  times 
have  I  learned  this  by  bitter  experience,  for  friendly 
persuasion  will  never  induce  a  Sara  native  to  carry 
a  tin  box  for  you.  He  will  do  so  only  if  he  knows 
that  his  refusal  will  result  in  his  hut  being  burned 
down  by  soldiers.  Unfortunately  there  were  not 
enough  available  soldiers ;  the  Fort  Archambault 
company  was  scattered  in  all  directions,  and  there 
was  no  other  nearer  than  Ndele,  whose  garrison  was 
at  the  moment  fighting  Sultan  Senussi.  The  country 
was  by  no  means  properly  subdued,  and  the  French 
were  too  much  taken  up  with  the  rebelHon  in  Wadai 
to  be  able  to  do  more  than  protect  the  Ubangi- 
Gribingi-Shari  main  road. 

My  mind  was  occupied  with  these  and  similar 
thoughts  as  I  sat  before  my  tent  near  the  Bahr  Sara 
on  the  evening  of  the  2nd  of  February,  helpless  and 
destitute  of  bearers.  Suddenly  a  native  brought  word 
that  a  caravan  was  approaching,  and  it  turned  out 
to  be  a  party  of  twenty -five  Niellim  men  sent  me  by 
Captain  Cross  under  escort  of  two  Senegalese  soldiers, 
in  answer  to  a  letter  that  I  had  despatched  to  him  a 
few  days  before.  My  immediate  difficulties  were  thus 
at  an  end.  Still  more  welcome  was  a  letter  from  the 
Duke,  with  whom  I  had  had  no  communication  since 
leaving  him  on  the  5th  of  October  1910.  Our  letters 
had  either  been  lost  en  route,  or  else  did  not  reach 
their  destination  for  many  months.  His  most  im- 
portant news,  as  far  as  I  was  concerned,  was  that 


6         FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

the  expedition  had  to  be  again  divided  owing  to 
political  unrest  in  the  North,  and  that  consequently 
von  Wiese  and  I  were  to  be  the  only  members  of  the 
party  returning  home  by  way  of  the  Nile.  The  Duke 
agreed  to  my  proposal  that  the  Uelle  district  should 
be  allotted  to  me, 

The  main  zoological  problem  for  the  1910-1911 
expedition  was  the  investigation  of  the  fauna  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  great  Equatorial  primeval  forest, 
and  of  the  animal  world  inhabiting  the  adjoining 
plains  of  the  Soudan. 

The  collection  made  by  the  English  explorer, 
Alexander  Gosling,  in  the  primeval  forest  of  the  Uelle 
district  shows  a  great  wealth  of  species  of  special 
scientific  interest.  At  the  head  of  the  list  stands  the 
okapi,  which  is  to  be  found  chiefly  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Angu.  It  was  my  ambition  to  secure  for 
the  museums  at  home  one  or  more  specimens  of  this 
big,  shy,  forest  antelope.  Apart  from  the  above- 
mentioned  scientific  reasons,  I  had  important  political 
grounds  for  adopting  this  route,  in  that  it  would  be 
comparatively  easy  to  traverse  the  Uelle  district, 
even  with  a  large  caravan.  All  the  Belgian  officers 
and  officials  that  I  had  met  who  were  experienced 
travellers  in  this  part  of  the  country,  painted  it  in 
the  most  glowing  colours,  and  assured  me  that  it  was 
densely  populated  with  sturdy  well-disciplined  negroes, 
admirably  adapted  for  the  work  of  carrying ;  that 
the  necessaries  of  life  were  easily  obtained,  bananas, 
maize,  goats,  and  even  cattle  being  plentiful ;  and 
that  good  roads  culminated  in  the  well-kept  main  road 
connecting  the  Congo  and  the  Nile. 

All  this  was  the  best  possible  news  for  a  traveller 
coming  from  the  Ubangi  and  Shari  basins,  where  it 


ON  THE  SHARI  AND  UBANGI  RIVERS         7 

was  one  man's  work  to  overcome  the  trivial  difficulties 
in  obtaining  bearers  and  provisions,  leaving  scant 
time  for  scientific  research.  My  spirits  rose,  and  I 
hoped  that  under  such  favourable  auspices  I  should 
be  able  to  enrich  my  zoological  collection  and  give 
it  a  value  proportionate  to  the  heavy  costs  of  our 
equipment. 

Following  the  instructions  of  His  Highness  the 
Duke,  I  rapidly  brought  my  work  in  the  Middle  Shari 
district  to  a  conclusion,  and  proceeded  by  forced 
marches  back  to  the  Ubangi  via  Fort  Crampel.  I 
was  in  hopes  of  meeting  von  Wiese  either  in  Fort 
Possel  or  in  Mobaye,  as  I  had  inadvertently  passed 
him  on  my  way  to  Archambault.  On  the  1st  of  April 
I  arrived  at  Possel,  but  my  hopes  were  not  fulfilled. 
For  six  months  I  had  been  travelling  alone,  and  since 
parting  with  the  Duke  I  had  met  no  member  of  our 
expedition,  so  that  I  was  anxious  to  come  across  von 
Wiese,  and  travel  in  his  company  at  any  rate  for  a 
short  distance.  This  hope  was  not,  however,  destined 
to  be  fulfilled  until  the  11th  of  October  1911,  when 
we  met  at  last  in  Khartoum. 

The  extraordinary  difficulties  which  I  encountered 
on  the  Ubangi  were  the  cause  of  my  delayed  arrival 
in  Mobaye  and  Yakoma.  During  the  rainy  season, 
from  June  to  November,  the  steamers  accomplish  the 
two  hundred  miles  in  four  days,  but  in  November  the 
steamer  service  ceases  owing  to  the  shallow  water, 
and  is  replaced  by  steel  boats  holding  one  or  two  tons, 
or  else  by  canoes  which  take  fourteen  instead  of  four 
days  to  reach  Mobaye.  At  the  height  of  the  dry 
season  in  January  and  February,  this  voyage  is  said 
to  be  very  pleasant,  the  current  being  then  com- 
paratively weak,  and  the  wealth  of  bird  hfe  varying 


8         FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

the  monotony.  But  it  is  very  different  in  April ;  at 
this  time  of  the  year  the  first  thunderstorms,  which 
are  characterised  by  unusual  violence,  rapidly  raise 
the  level  of  the  river  until  it  becomes  a  raging 
torrent. 

The  great  birds :  marabouts,  storks,  pelicans,  ibises, 
herons,  and  various  kinds  of  vultures  that  haunt  the 
sandbanks  during  the  dry  season  in  search  of  stranded 
fish  and  other  animal  refuse,  have  all  disappeared. 
They  have  migrated  to  drier  regions,  and  the  only 
birds  that  remain  faithful  to  the  densely  wooded  banks 
of  the  river  are  a  few  geese  and  ducks,  lapwings  and 
plovers,  fishing  birds,  and  the  powerful  lake  eagles 
{Gypohierax  angolensis  is  more  common  than  Haliaetus 
vocifer  on  the  Middle  Ubangi),  but  they  are  distri- 
buted over  a  wide  area,  and  consequently  provide 
but  Uttle  excitement  for  the  traveller.  He  is  sadly 
in  need  of  entertainment,  for  he  has  nothing  to  read 
but  newspapers  two  or  three  months  old,  which  are 
soon  exhausted;  and  though  here  in  darkest  Africa 
he  eagerly  devours  even  the  advertisement  sheet, 
this  is  apt  to  pall  in  the  long  run. 

I  had  constant  trouble  with  the  boatmen.  From 
Possel  to  Mobaye  I  employed  Banziris  who,  though 
competent  rowers,  are  very  lazy,  and  the  most  in- 
veterate thieves  that  I  have  ever  come  across.  They 
stole  everything  they  could  lay  their  hands  on,  even 
to  the  buckles  of  my  gun-straps  and  saddlery,  knives 
and  other  indispensable  articles.  The  mismanage- 
ment of  the  French  Government  is  to  blame  for  the 
conduct  of  the  natives.  Physical  punishment  is  no 
longer  allowed,  although  all  experienced  French 
officials  admit  that  this  is  the  only  effective  means 
of  educating  the  negroes.    The  sole  incentive  which 


1.   The  son  of  Ngurru,  Sultan  of  the  Asanda. 


i 


2.   Victims  of  sleeping-sickness  in  Yakoma. 


3.    Huts  of  the  Asanda-Avungura. 


4.    Painted  hut  of  the  Asanda-Abandja. 


ON  THE  SHARI  AND  UBANGI  RIVERS        9 

has  any  moral  effect  on  them,  that  is  to  say,  the  fear 
of  punishment,  has  thus  lost  much  of  its  power;  for 
imprisonment,  even  when  accompanied  by  hard  labour, 
does  not  make  nearly  the  same  impression  on  their 
minds  as  a  sound  thrashing. 

There  is  hardly  any  institution  so  universal  and 
consequently  so  desirable  among  the  negroes  as 
physical  punishment,  and  far-seeing  governments, 
hke  the  British,  Belgian,  and  German,  although  they 
have  limited  its  application,  have  hesitated  to  do 
away  with  it  altogether.  On  one  occasion  when  I 
complained  to  a  Banziri  chief  of  the  thieving  pro- 
pensities of  one  of  his  people,  I  observed  with  amuse- 
ment that  he  personally  administered  to  the  culprit 
the  customary  five  and  twenty  strokes.  I  was 
enjoying  the  hospitality  of  the  Government,  so  that 
I  could  not  venture  to  order  corporal  punishment 
myself ;  I  had  to  content  myself  with  conveying  the 
culprit  bound  to  Mobaye,  where  I  could  give  him  up 
to  justice. 

The  manner  in  which  the  natives  bind  prisoners 
is  very  brutal ;  they  tie  their  wrists  behind  their  backs 
with  tight  cords  that  cut  into  the  flesh,  and  then,  to 
prevent  any  possible  evasion,  they  fasten  the  arms 
again  higher  up  at  the  elbow.  This  is  very  painful, 
and  hmits  the  prisoner's  movements  to  a  most  un- 
comfortable extent.  When  I  saw  the  thieves  again 
in  the  evening  after  they  had  lain  for  twelve  hours 
in  the  boat  bound  in  this  fashion,  they  were  stiff  and 
lame,  and  moaned  piteously.  I  had  mercy  on  them, 
and  ordered  the  ropes  to  be  cut,  informing  them  that, 
provided  they  made  no  attempt  to  escape,  they  might 
travel  in  freedom  the  next  day.  Two  of  them  re- 
warded my  clemency  by   remaining,   but  the   third, 


10    FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

who  was  the  chief  offender,  was  far  away  by  the  follow- 
ing morning. 

In  attempting  to  administer  justice  in  this  country, 
the  authorities  are  obliged  to  rely  to  a  great  extent 
on  the  co-operation  of  the  prisoner.  Captain  Cross 
told  me  incidentally  that  he  dared  not  annoy  his 
prisoners  too  much,  otherwise  they  ran  away ;  he 
had  two  patricides  in  his  prison  who  were  condemned 
to  two  years'  penal  servitude,  which  does  not  seem 
a  very  severe  sentence.  In  six  months  one  had  de- 
camped, whereupon  the  other,  who  was  a  carpenter, 
received  permission  to  remain  at  liberty  during  the 
day,  provided  he  spent  the  night  in  prison.  Justice 
was  in  this  way  satisfied,  while  Captain  Cross  retained 
his  carpenter. 

More  annoying  for  me  even  than  the  thefts  of  the 
natives  were  the  violent  storms  which  on  several  occa- 
sions overtook  me  on  the  Ubangi.  Twice  I  was  far  from 
a  village,  and  at  a  point  where  the  bank  was  too  steep 
to  permit  us  to  land.  Sheets  of  water  poured  down 
upon  us,  and  in  a  moment  had  half  filled  the  boat. 
Several  hoiu-s  elapsed  before  we  could  reach  the 
village,  pitch  our  tents,  and  get  the  loads  into  a  dry 
place.  Even  my  bed  was  wet,  and  I  passed  a  miserable 
night. 

Another  time  matters  were  even  worse.  I  had 
left  my  boat  at  noon  in  order  to  stretch  my  limbs  by 
walking  to  the  next  village,  leaving  the  boats  to  follow. 
I  had  scarcely  started  when  it  began  to  rain,  first  a 
few  drops,  then  a  sharp  shower,  and  finally  in  buckets. 
A  half-grown  lad  whom  I  had  taken  from  a  village, 
guided  me  along  a  narrow  path  through  the  dripping 
bushes,  through  waist-deep  swamps,  over  plains 
covered  with  buffalo  spoor  and  finally  across  country. 


ON  THE  SHARI  AND  UBANGI  RIVERS      11 

After  wandering  aimlessly  for  some  hom*s,  I  asked 
him  sharply  where  he  was  going,  and  he  admitted 
with  tears  in  his  eyes  that  he  had  lost  the  way  owing 
to  the  rain  having  obscured  his  sight.  So  we  made 
our  way  back  to  the  river  and  followed  it  as  far  as 
the  village,  which  in  this  manner  could  not  be  missed. 
I  warmed  myself  at  the  fire  with  the  natives  in  a 
hospitable  hut.  The  boats  did  not  appear  until  after 
sunset,  and  had  to  be  unloaded  by  the  hght  of  two 
lanterns.  The  steep  bank  and  slippery  ground  made 
this  a  difficult  task,  and  in  order  to  encourage  the 
wet  and  exhausted  men,  I  stood  on  the  shore,  took 
each  one  by  the  hand,  and  dragged  him  up  with  his 
load.  Many  of  them  fell  all  the  same  and  broke  some 
of  the  contents  of  the  cases,  thus  adding  to  the  damage 
already  done  by  the  water.  When  I  reached  Mobaye 
a  day  and  a  half  later,  my  guns,  photographic  ap- 
paratus, and  collection  of  birds  presented  a  lamentable 
appearance.  Out  of  thirty  dozen  photographic 
plates,  only  three  dozen  could  be  used. 

I  lost  a  valuable  assistant  in  the  person  of  Kwamfi, 
an  old  Togo  negro.  He  was  looking  for  a  badly 
wounded  buffalo  when  he  encountered  the  cow,  who 
was  uninjured,  and  had  spent  the  whole  night  be- 
side her  dying  mate.  She  attacked  Kwamfi  so 
suddenly  that  he  had  no  time  either  to  fly  or  to  defend 
himself,  and  she  gored  him  twice,  piercing  his  heart. 
This  happened  on  the  morning  of  the  16th  of  April ; 
I  marked  the  day  in  my  calendar  with  a  cross,  and 
reaHsed  that  it  was  Easter  Sunday,  and  that  while 
the  bells  were  peahng  at  home,  I  might  easily  have 
lost  my  Ufe  instead  of  old  Kwamfi. 

This  old  negro  was  my  best  assistant,  the  only 
one    who    thoroughly  understood    how    to    preserve 


12   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

specimens,  and  who  took  a  genuine  pleasure  in  his 
work. 

It  took  me  twelve  days  to  traverse  the  two  hundred 
miles  between  Possel  and  Mobaye.  There  is  no  mode 
of  travelling  so  wearisome  as  proceeding  up-stream  in 
a  small  boat,  so  that  I  was  thankful  to  reach  Mobaye, 
and  to  know  that  the  most  disagreeable  part  of 
the  journey  lay  behind  me.  But  Yakoma,  and  not 
Mobaye,  was  to  be  the  starting-point  of  my  Uelle 
travels,  and  I  had  still  seventy-five  miles  to  traverse. 

Lieutenant  Scharf,  the  commandant  of  the  Belgian 
station,  Banzyville,  opposite  Mobaye,  supplied  me 
with  a  large  steel  boat  capable  of  carrying  all  my 
eighty  loads.  Twenty-five  rowers  wearily  paddled 
the  heavy  craft  up-stream.  They  were  not  the  sturdy 
Banziris,  but  half-grown  youths  from  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Banzyville,  many  of  them  weakened  by  sleep- 
ing-sickness, so  that  it  took  me  seven  days,  travelling 
twelve  hours  a  day,  to  reach  Yakoma. 

I  arrived  here  on  the  2nd  of  May,  weary  and  ex- 
hausted, but  my  spirits  rose  at  the  sight  of  the  Uelle 
River.  Now  at  any  rate  the  worst  part  of  my  journey 
was  over.  Seven  hundred  and  fifty  miles  still  separated 
me  from  the  Nile,  which  is  no  trifle  when  it  has  to  be 
traversed  on  foot  or  on  horseback ;  but  I  was  home- 
ward bound,  every  day  bringing  me  nearer  to  the  broad 
river,  which  was  the  easiest  way  back  to  Germany. 


CHAPTER  XV 

ON   THE    ROAD    TO    ANGU 

It  took  fourteen  days  before  all  the  preparations  for 
my  long  land  journey  were  complete,  and  I  could 
think  of  setting  out  from  Yakoma.  All  my  cases 
had  to  be  repacked,  and  my  supply  of  wares  for  ex- 
change with  the  Uelle  population  had  to  be  augmented 
and  adapted  to  their  tastes.  Among  the  four  white 
men  at  Yakoma  there  was  a  cattle  breeder.  Monsieur 
Vaes-Peels,  who  had  travelled  a  great  deal  in  the 
Uelle  district,  and  was  able  to  give  me  valuable  advice. 

This  prolonged  rest  was  very  beneficial  to  my 
health.  The  foregoing  months  of  travelling  in  the 
Ubangi  district  had  been  a  great  strain  on  my  ner- 
vous system,  and  being  continually  wet,  and  sleeping 
in  soaked  bed-clothes,  had  brought  on  a  feverish 
cold.  But  I  rapidly  recovered,  thanks  to  the  rest 
at  Yakoma,  and  thanks  to  the  care  of  Dr  Zerbini  the 
station  doctor. 

I  employed  my  leisure  in  the  study  of  sleeping- 
sickness.  There  is  at  Yakoma  a  Government  sleeping- 
sickness  hospital,  where  several  hundred  patients  are 
under  treatment.  (Illus.  2.)  Twice  a  week  they  are 
given  injections  of  atoxyl.  The  results  are  the  same  as 
were  described  by  Koch  in  his  report  of  the  proceed- 
ings of  the  German  sleeping-sickness  expedition  in 
the    neighbourhood    of    Lake    Victoria.      Persevering 

13 


14   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

treatment  causes  the  trypanosoma  to  disappear  from 
the  blood  and  lymph,  but  it  is  still  doubtful  whether 
this  constitutes  a  permanent  cure.  Patients  in 
Yakoma  cannot  be  induced  to  remain  long  enough 
in  hospital.  Most  of  them  are  out-patients  and 
attend  only  for  the  treatment  on  the  appointed  days, 
so  that  it  is  very  difficult  to  follow  up  the  results  of 
an  apparent  cure. 

The  Uelle  district  itself  is  still  free  from  human 
sleeping-sickness.  This  is  the  more  remarkable  in  that 
the  banks  of  the  Uelle  as  far  as  Bambili  are  thickly 
wooded  and  are  swarming  with  the  mosquito  {Glos- 
sina  palpalis)^  which  is  the  carrier  of  the  disease. 
There  is,  moreover,  a  good  deal  of  river  traffic,  which 
has  existed  for  many  years,  and  still  continues.  But 
the  fact  remains  that  there  is  no  sleeping-sickness  to 
be  found  beyond  Bondo,  formerly  known  as  Djabir, 
which  is  only  six  days'  journey  from  Yakoma. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  of  May  I  set  out  from 
Yakoma.  The  road  to  the  Uelle  district  passes  through 
the  little  station  Monga,  the  last  of  the  Ubangi  dis- 
trict. It  is  inhabited  by  a  few  Europeans,  and  is 
beautifully  situated  near  an  imposing  waterfall  of 
the  Bili  River.  The  commandant,  a  young  Belgian 
officer,  unfortunately  was  not  familiar  with  the  sur- 
rounding country,  and  could  not  give  me  directions 
as  to  my  route. 

There  was  also  a  dearth  of  bearers,  and  although 
armed  messengers,  known  as  "  pistonniers,"  had  been 
sent  out  in  every  direction,  only  forty  men  turned 
up  the  following  morning  instead  of  the  hundred  that 
were  needed.  I  was  obliged  to  take  convicts  to  make 
up  the  requisite  number  of  bearers;  these  were 
criminals,  chained  five  or  six  together,  and  condenmed 


1- 

r 

^v^     "■ 

19          /i       V  ^^^k. 

iMwr^-   ^iirnri-M 

5.   Squirrel  with  flying-membranes. 


6.   Hunter  with  the  prepared  skin  of  the  Okapi. 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  ANGU  15 

to  hard  labour  on  the  station.  One  of  them  spoke 
Kisuaheli,  an  East  African  language  which  I  had 
not  heard  for  such  a  long  time  that  it  sounded  almost 
as  pleasantly  in  my  ears  as  my  native  tongue.  My 
host  was  in  hopes  that  at  the  end  of  a  three  or  four 
hours'  joiu'ney  I  should  find  other  bearers  in  the  large 
village  of  Bangassu,  but  as  he  admitted  that  he  had 
never  visited  this  village,  I  did  not  place  much  re- 
liance on  his  words.  I  left  Monga  at  about  noon. 
There  was  no  proper  road,  merely  a  narrow,  almost 
invisible  track  winding  in  and  out  through  the  swamps 
of  the  dense,  primeval  forest.  I  had  injured  my  foot, 
so  whenever  it  was  possible,  I  rode  the  horse  that  had 
kindly  been  lent  to  me  in  Yakoma  ;  many  times  I  was 
obliged  to  He  flat  on  his  back,  Indian-fashion,  and 
finally  a  low  branch  hfted  me  right  out  of  the 
saddle. 

A  four  hours'  march  brought  us  to  a  river  about 
thirty  feet  wide,  in  the  thickest  part  of  the  forest. 
A  tree  trunk  served  as  a  bridge,  affording  an  easy 
passage  for  the  men,  but  impossible  for  the  horse. 
The  bank  on  our  side  was  six  feet  high,  and  almost 
perpendicular ;  a  large  tree  submerged  in  the  water 
formed  another  serious  obstacle,  whilst  on  the  opposite 
bank  the  dense  undergrowth  made  landing  very 
difficult.  What  was  to  be  done  ?  There  seemed 
Httle  chance  of  getting  the  animal  safely  across,  for 
if  he  became  entangled  in  the  branches  in  mid-stream, 
he  would  most  likely  break  a  leg,  and  would  have  to 
be  shot.  I  thought  for  a  moment  of  sending  him 
back  to  Yakoma,  but  then  I  remembered  that  in 
that  case  I  should  have  to  walk  on  my  lame  feet 
£ill  the  way  to  Bondo.  So  I  decided  to  take  the  risk 
and  try  to  get  the  horse  across,  in  which  I  was  success- 


16   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

ful.  Nobody  knows  what  he  can  accomplish  until 
he  tries  ! 

The  saddle  was  removed,  and  the  horse  brought 
close  to  the  edge  of  the  river,  and  then  all  the  men 
pushed  together  so  that  he  fell  with  a  loud  splash 
into  the  stream.  He  was  caught  for  a  moment  in 
the  submerged  tree,  but  he  struck  out  wildly,  and 
fortunately  extricated  himself  and  succeeded  in  land- 
ing safely  on  the  opposite  bank,  where  a  small  clear- 
ance had  been  made.  An  hour  later  we  reached 
another  river,  the  Bili,  which  is  about  sixty  feet 
in  breadth  at  this  point.  Here,  however,  there  were 
boats  which  enabled  us  to  cross  without  difficulty. 
The  boatmen  informed  us  that  Bangassu  was  still  a 
long  way  off,  and  that  we  could  not  possibly  arrive 
there  before  midnight ;  we  had  already  been  march- 
ing for  six  hours  instead  of  three,  which,  according 
to  the  commandant  of  Monga,  was  the  time  required 
for  the  journey  to  Bangassu.  My  bed,  tent,  and 
cooking  apparatus  had  all  been  sent  on  ahead,  so 
that  I  was  forced  to  push  on,  in  spite  of  the  growing 
darkness,  as  I  did  not  feel  inclined  to  camp  out  in  the 
open  air,  under  a  sky  that  threatened  rain. 

Half  an  hour  later,  to  my  surprise,  we  came  to  a 
large  village.  An  aged  sultan,  dressed  in  white  Euro- 
pean clothes,  came  out  to  meet  me,  surrounded  by 
a  number  of  warriors,  one  of  whom  carried  a  large 
trmnpet.  This  was  not  Bangassu,  but  a  neighbour- 
ing village,  the  existence  of  which  was  unknown  to 
me.  The  old  man  escorted  me  through  his  village. 
On  each  side  of  the  street  stood  a  long  row  of  huts, 
painted  white,  to  which  the  last  rays  of  the  setting 
sun  imparted  a  rosy  glow.  A  crowd  of  women  and 
children    followed    us    at    a    respectful    distance,    and 


3 

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< 


O)      ■ 

5;  S 


P5 


O 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  ANGU  17 

hiding  behind  huts  and  bananas  trees,  peeped  ner- 
vously and  inquisitively  at  those  two  strange  and 
marvellous  beasts :  the  white  man  and  his  horse. 
It  made  me  feel  once  more  that  I  was  a  very  fine 
fellow,  and  I  speedily  forgot  all  the  troubles  of  the 
day's  march.  In  Africa  joy  and  sorrow  are  very  closely 
related. 

As  we  left  the  village  we  were  met  by  two  natives, 
who  introduced  themselves  as  messengers  sent  by 
Bangassu  to  conduct  us  to  his  residence.  This  proved 
to  have  been  a  very  necessary  precaution,  for  dark- 
ness had  now  fallen  and  the  path  led  through  the 
forest.  I  was  obhged  to  take  hold  of  my  guide's 
loin-cloth  as  I  could  not  see  an  inch  in  front  of  me, 
but  eventually  we  reached  Bangassu  in  safety. 

The  sultan,  surrounded  by  a  great  crowd  of  people, 
was  awaiting  my  arrival.  I  was  the  first  white  man 
to  visit  his  village,  and  he  was  evidently  much  im- 
pressed by  all  my  luggage,  my  military  escort,  my 
spacious  tent,  and  especially  by  my  horse,  which 
was  something  quite  new  to  these  savages.  Ban- 
gassu agreed  to  provide  me  with  a  hundred  bearers 
the  following  day.  Soon  after  midnight  the  great 
drum  sounded  outside  the  sultan's  hut,  siunmoning 
bearers  from  all  the  neighbouring  villages.  For  a 
long  time  I  lay  awake  listening  to  its  melodious  tones. 
In  the  distance  other  drums  could  be  heard,  answer- 
ing the  sultan's  call,  and  echoing  in  the  deepest  re- 
cesses of  the  slumbering  forest. 

These  drums,  here  as  elsewhere  in  the  Congo  basin, 
are  made  from  large  hollowed  tree  trunks,  from  which 
wonderfully  modulated  tones  can  be  produced  by  means 
of  a  pair  of  drum-sticks.  In  answer  to  the  summons, 
a  hundred  and  sixty  bearers  presented  themselves  the 


18    FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

next  morning  to  convey  my  eighty  loads  to  the  village  of 
Ngurru,  which  was  one  day's  journey  off.  I  rewarded 
Sultan  Bangassu  with  a  few  pounds  of  salt,  two  barrels 
of  black  powder,  and  fifty  percussion  caps,  which  are 
highly  valued  in  this  country. 

It  was  a  beautiful  summer's  day,  without  a  cloud 
in  the  sky.  Three  hours'  march  brought  us  to  the  next 
village  belonging  to  Sultan  Ngurru.  His  son,  who  is 
the  village  chief  (illus.  1),  came  to  meet  me  bringing 
presents  of  fowls  and  eggs,  and  accompanied  me  to 
his  father's  residence,  two  hours  further  on.  It  was 
a  large  village,  thousands  of  huts  being  built  on  each 
side  of  the  wide,  well-kept  road.  The  inhabitants 
are  Asandes,  or  Niam-Niams,  the  most  powerful  tribe 
in  the  Uelle  district.  Their  huts  are  for  the  most 
part  rectangular,  with  mud  walls,  and  conical  roofs 
made  of  plaited  leaves,  supported  by  pillars.  But 
the  most  remarkable  thing  about  them  is  their  decora- 
tion. (Illus.  4.)  The  white-washed  walls  of  almost 
all  the  huts  are  adorned  with  paintings,  most  of  them 
representing  one  or  other  of  the  following  subjects  : 
a  man  carrying  a  gun  (generally  a  blue  and  red  Congo 
soldier) ;  a  white  man  sitting  at  a  table  with  bottles 
on  it ;  an  elephant  (sometimes  depicted  just  as  he 
is  being  shot  by  the  man  with  the  gun) ;  a  leopard ; 
and  a  horse. 

Sultan  Ngurru  came  to  meet  me,  followed  by  a 
crowd  of  natives.  A  man  of  about  forty,  of  com- 
manding appearance,  he  was  dressed  in  a  long  coloured 
shirt,  khaki  breeches,  brown  stockings,  the  usual 
shoes  worn  in  the  Soudan,  and  a  scarlet  fez.  His 
stout  figure  and  placid,  clean-shaven  face,  with  a 
fairly  smaU  nose  and  somewhat  prominent  eyes  gave 
him  a  certain  dignity  like  that  of  a  priest  or  an  actor, 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  ANGU  19 

or  at  any  rate  like  that  of  an  individual  who  is  accus- 
tomed to  be  Ustened  to  when  he  speaks.  It  took 
fully  an  hour  to  reach  the  part  of  the  village  where 
he  resides,  and  where  I  was  shown  into  a  brand-new 
guest  house  for  Europeans.  I  gave  the  sultan  a  chair 
and  a  whisky  and  soda,  a  token  of  esteem  which  I 
was  in  the  habit  of  offering  to  influential  chiefs,  in 
order  to  strengthen  their  authority  over  their  subjects. 
To  my  request  for  bearers  Ngurru  made  the  gratify- 
ing reply  that  I  could  have  as  many  men  as  I  wanted. 
He  spoke  but  little,  probably  from  embarrassment, 
seeing  that  I  was  only  the  second  white  man  with 
whom  he  had  come  in  contact.  He  had  no  notion 
what  to  do  with  the  cigar  that  I  offered  him,  and  when 
I  turned  my  back  on  him  for  an  instant,  he  took  the 
opportunity  of  throwing  it  away. 

The  following  days  passed  much  in  the  same  way. 
I  marched  by  easy  stages  through  a  thickly  popu- 
lated country,  whose  influential  chiefs  were  most 
anxious  to  meet  the  wishes  of  a  white  man  in  every 
possible  way.  The  last  sultan  in  whose  village  I 
spent  the  night  before  arriving  in  Bondo,  was  Ndekkere 
who  had  been  decorated  by  Leopold  the  Second  with 
a  large  copper  medal.  He  rode  to  meet  me  on  a  mule, 
and  his  body-guard,  composed  of  eight  former  Congo 
soldiers  armed  with  percussion  guns,  was  drawn  up 
in  my  honour.  The  next  day's  march  brought  me 
to  Djabir. 

Djabir  is  the  ancient  Asande  name  for  an  import- 
ant station  on  the  Uelle  River,  officially  known  as 
Bondo.  Djabir  was  the  most  influential  sultan  in 
the  Western  Uelle  district,  and  was  so  submissive  to 
the  Belgians,  and  so  useful  to  them  in  procuring  india- 
rubber  and  ivory,  that  they  raised  him  to  the  rank 


20   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

of  captain,  paying  him  the  corresponding  salary. 
He  could  neither  read  nor  write,  but  the  importance 
of  his  position  went  to  his  head,  so  that  one  day  he 
refused  to  obey  the  Government.  The  result  was  that 
four  hundred  soldiers  were  sent  to  depose  him,  and  he 
was  obhged  to  fly  into  French  territory,  where  he  is  said 
to  be  still  living  surrounded  by  a  few  faithful  men 
and  women.  With  a  view  to  effacing  his  memory, 
the  name  of  the  station  was  ofiicially  changed  to  Bondo. 

As  I  approached  the  station,  five  Europeans  headed 
by  the  "  chef  de  zone "  Commandant  Bareau,  rode 
to  meet  me.  They  welcomed  me  in  the  most  friendly 
manner,  and  allotted  to  me  the  finest  house  in  the 
station.  It  was  a  handsome  brick  building,  the 
largest  that  I  have  seen  anywhere  in  Central  Africa. 
It  contained  two  lofty  rooms  opening  on  to  a  wide 
verandah,  with  a  beautiful  view  over  the  river,  which 
is  here  nearly  a  thousand  feet  in  width. 

The  beautiful  scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Bondo,  the  excellence  of  my  accommodation,  and 
the  friendly  hospitaUty  of  Commandant  Bareau, 
combined  to  make  my  visit  a  very  pleasant  one,  and 
I  would  gladly  have  prolonged  it.  I  was,  however, 
most  anxious  to  reach  the  okapi  district,  which  Com- 
mandant van  der  Cruyssen  had  described  to  me  as 
being  situated  between  the  stations  of  Likati  and 
Angu,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Uelle.  This  infor- 
mation was  confirmed  by  Commandant  Bareau,  who 
added  that  Angu  would  be  my  best  headquarters. 

The  name  of  Angu  was  not  unknown  to  me ;  I 
remembered  that  the  only  photographs  of  a  living  okapi 
had  been  taken  in  this  neighbourhood.  I  also  knew 
of  Angu  from  Boyd  Alexander's  account  of  his  travels 
"  From  the  Niger'^to  the  Nile." 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  ANGU  21 

It  was  a  curious  fact  that  ever  since  leaving  Niellim, 
I  had  been  traveUing  on  the  track  of  this  unfortun- 
ate expedition.  This  was  not  particularly  encourag- 
ing for  me,  seeing  that  none  of  the  recent  African 
explorers  have  encountered  such  insuperable  ob- 
stacles or  met  with  such  severe  losses  as  the  Englishmen 
Alexander  and  Goshng.  It  cannot,  however,  be  denied 
that  their  itinerary  was  at  fault. 

The  EngHsh  Lieutenant  Boyd  Alexander,  who  was 
a  well-known  ornithologist  and  an  experienced  African 
traveller,  had  an  idea  that  he  could  cross  the  continent 
by  an  almost  uninterrupted  water  route,  formed  by 
the  large  rivers :  the  Niger,  Benue,  Shari,  Ubangi, 
Uelle,  and  Nile.  He  hoped  in  this  way  to  be  able  to 
follow  the  wanderings  of  certain  migratory  birds, 
which  in  travelUng  between  the  East  and  West  Coasts 
always  seem  to  take  the  same  course  as  the  great 
rivers. 

There  was  one  practical  advantage  attached  to 
this  plan  :  he  was  quite  independent  of  bearers,  for 
aU  his  baggage  was  stowed  in  two  large,  specially 
constructed  steel  boats.  But  he  made  a  great  mis- 
take in  the  direction  adopted  by  the  expedition. 
Instead  of  starting  from  the  Upper  Uelle,  whither 
his  boats  could  have  been  brought  up  the  White  Nile, 
and  travelling  down  the  above-mentioned  rivers, 
Alexander  for  some  unaccountable  reason  chose  the 
reverse  direction.  This  resulted  in  a  ceaseless  struggle 
to  propel  the  heavily  laden  boats  against  the  raging 
current.  The  chief  characteristics  of  the  African 
rivers  are  that  they  are  shallow  and  broad,  whilst 
the  current  is  violent,  and  they  are  frequently  inter- 
rupted by  rapids  forming  serious  obstacles  to 
navigation. 

C2 


22   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

Consequently  Boyd  Alexander  took  nearly  three 
years  to  traverse  a  distance  which  he  could  easily 
have  accomphshed  in  half  the  time.  And  it  was  not 
only  time  lost,  but  he  was  obliged  to  keep  in  touch 
with  his  boats,  so  that  his  observations  and  collections 
were  much  circumscribed.  I  have  myself  travelled 
for  several  months  at  a  time  up  the  Ubangi  in  a  boat 
rowed  by  natives  against  the  current  of  a  river 
swollen  by  the  rainy  season,  so  that  I  fully  realise 
the  strain  on  the  nervous  system  of  this  slow  mono- 
tonous voyage,  apart  from  the  constant  quarrels  with 
the  boatmen. 

Of  his  three  companions,  only  one,  the  topographer 
Talbot,  returned  to  England  at  the  conclusion  of  his 
work  in  British  Nigeria.  His  brother.  Captain  Claud 
Alexander,  died  of  dysentery  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Lake  Tchad,  and  Captain  C.  B.  Gosling,  "  one  of 
the  best  and  bravest  fellows  that  ever  Hved  "  (he  was 
thus  described  in  his  obituary  notice)  reached  the 
Uelle  with  Boyd  Alexander.  He  was  one  of  the  finest 
sportsmen  in  England,  physically  well  developed, 
and  admirably  adapted  for  enduring  the  fatigues  of 
African  travel.  His  great  ambition  was  to  shoot  an 
okapi  and  add  it  to  his  collection  of  African  big  game. 
Near  Angu  he  hunted  for  a  fortnight,  regardless  of 
his  health,  but  without  success.  He  carried  away 
the  germs  of  blackwater  fever,  and  fell  ill  soon  after 
leaving  Angu.  His  vigorous  constitution  carried  him 
through  the  first  attack,  but  two  weeks  later  he  suc- 
cmnbed  to  the  fever  at  Niangara,  and  was  buried  in 
the  cemetery  there. 

Boyd  Alexander  alone,  having  surmounted  in- 
credible difficulties,  exhausted  and  broken  down  in 
health,   reached   his   goal,   the   White   Nile.    But   he 


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9.   Tame  elephants  bathing. 


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10.    Elephants  ploughing. 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  ANGU  23 

was  not  to  escape  his  fate,  and  he  too  lies  in  African 
soil.  Soon  after  his  return  to  England  he  set  off  on 
a  fresh  journey,  intending  to  travel  from  Lake  Tchad 
to  the  Nile  along  the  route  formerly  adopted  by 
Nachtigal. 

In  spite  of  the  warnings  of  the  French  authorities, 
he  persisted  in  penetrating  the  French  Wadai  district, 
and  was  murdered  by  the  natives. 

His  book  "  From  the  Niger  to  the  Nile  "  provided 
my  only  reading  for  several  months.  I  was  there- 
fore familiar  with  the  aims  and  fate  of  this  unlucky 
expedition,  and  felt  the  warmest  sympathy  for  its 
members,  while  their  persevering  enthusiasm  for  our 
common  task  aroused  my  profound  admiration.  On 
reaching  Niangara,  I  was  impelled  to  visit  GosHng's 
grave,  and  felt  as  though  I  were  taking  leave  of  a 
dead  friend. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

THE    HOME    OF   THE    OKAPI 

Angu  is  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Uelle,  four  days' 
journey  up-stream  from  Bondo.  The  overland  route 
via  Likati  takes  twice  as  long,  so  I  decided,  albeit 
unwillingly,  in  favour  of  travelling  once  more  by  boat. 
The  voyage  was  more  pleasant  than  I  had  anticipated, 
for  the  boats  were  large  and  roomy,  the  rowers  strong 
and  skilful,  and  the  river  scenery  more  attractive 
than  any  I  have  seen  in  Africa. 

The  Uelle  is  a  wide  river,  but  innumerable  islands 
divide  it  into  channels  from  a  hundred  and  thirty  to 
three  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  width.  Sometimes  the 
trees  on  both  banks  meet  overhead,  forming  a  green 
canopy.  The  foliage  is  not  of  the  monotonous  dark 
green  hue  which  characterises  the  Ubangi  and  Congo 
forests,  but  varies  from  the  light  green  tints  of  spring 
to  the  red-brown  colourings  of  autumn.  Numerous 
rocks  and  reefs  embellish  the  landscape,  but  are 
dangerous  to  navigation. 

My  crew  was  composed  of  Bakangos,  a  tribe  which 
inhabits  the  banks  of  the  Uelle  between  Bondo  and 
Bambili.  They  are  less  attractive  than  the  Asandes, 
being  dirtier  and  more  uncivilised,  but  they  are  com- 
petent boatmen,  and  also  extremely  musical.  I 
distinguished  no  fewer  than  six  different  tunes,  all 
of  them  so  melodious  that  I  often  interrupted  my 
reading  in  order  to  listen  to  the  singers. 

24 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  OKAPI  25 

On  the  third  day  of  the  voyage  we  encountered 
several  rapids.  The  men  rowed  vigorously  on,  but 
the  strength  of  the  current  was  too  much  for  them, 
and  the  two  men  in  the  bows  could  no  longer  make 
headway  against  the  stream.  The  boat  swung  round 
just  as  a  huge  wave  broke  over  it,  and  a  few  cowards 
sprang  into  the  water.  I  crept  out  from  under  my 
awning,  so  that  if  the  boat  capsized  I  might  not  be 
drowned  like  a  rat  in  a  trap.  However,  by  exerting 
all  their  might,  the  rowers  succeeded  in  bringing  the 
half-swamped  boat  to  the  shore,  a  feat  of  which  my 
Ubangi  boatmen  would  have  been  incapable. 

On  the  30th  of  May  at  noon,  we  reached  Angu. 
This  little  European  station  is  built  close  to  the  river 
bank,  in  a  clearance  in  the  midst  of  the  great  forest. 
The  straw  and  mud  huts  were  not  such  as  to  inspire 
great  confidence,  and  it  seemed  to  me  more  than 
doubtful  whether  they  would  suffice  to  keep  out  the 
rain  during  the  wet  season  which  was  just  beginning. 
The  "  chef  de  poste  "  was  absent,  and  a  black  sergeant 
was  left  in  charge  of  the  station. 

I  explained  the  object  of  my  journey  to  the  soldiers, 
and  told  them  that  I  was  most  anxious  to  shoot  an 
okapi,  but  that  I  also  wanted  specimens  of  all  the 
other  animals  of  the  forest,  great  and  small,  and  that 
I  was  prepared  to  pay  a  large  reward  to  anyone  who 
brought  them  to  me.  I  was  rejoiced  to  hear  that 
the  okapi  is  a  well-known  denizen  of  the  forest ;  the 
men  at  once  recognised  Boyd  Alexander's  photo- 
graphs of  the  animal,  and  mentioned  its  local  name : 
ndumbe.  Two  days  later  a  tall,  shm  negro  called 
Etumbamingi  (literally :  the  quarrelsome  one),  offered 
his  services  ;  he  was  the  young  chief  of  a  neighbour- 
ing village,  and  claimed  to  be  an  experienced  okapi 


26   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

hunter.  In  proof  of  his  assertion  he  showed  me  a 
large  basket  with  handles,  made  from  the  skin  of  an 
okapi  and  an  elephant.  I  explained  that  I  was  deter- 
mined to  secure  an  okapi,  and  that  I  would  give  him 
a  gun,  some  powder,  percussion  caps,  and  other 
beautiful  things  if  he  would  bring  me  within  range 
of  one  of  these  animals.  He  replied  that  he  knew 
where  okapis  were  to  be  found,  and  would  do  his  best, 
but  that  this  kind  of  hunting  was  an  arduous  under- 
taking, quite  unsuited  to  white  men.  He  described 
how  the  okapi  wanders  continually  through  the  forest, 
and  must  be  pursued  for  days  on  end,  over  swamps 
and  through  dense  jungle,  and  he  insisted  that  Euro- 
peans made  too  much  noise.  They  could  shoot 
elephants  and  buffaloes,  which  are  stupid  and  easily 
duped,  but  not  the  shy  and  wary  ndumbe  that  always 
Kves  far  away  from  human  dweUings.  In  short,  he 
wished  to  dispense  with  my  company. 

The  young  man  inspired  me  with  confidence,  and 
with  all  that  he  told  me  I  was  already  familiar  since 
the  time  when  we  had  unsuccessfully  hunted  okapis 
with  the  dwarfs  of  the  Ituri  forest  during  om*  first 
expedition.  But  I  was  not  prepared  to  give  up  so 
easily  my  great  desire  to  be  the  first  European  to 
shoot  this  rare  animal.  If  Etumbamingi  could  not 
help  me  to  accomplish  my  wish,  then  I  must  find 
another  guide.  So  I  dismissed  him  with  the  injunc- 
tion to  hunt  on  his  o^vn  account,  and  to  send  me  word 
as  soon  as  he  came  across  any  okapis. 

A  few  days  after  my  arrival  in  Angu,  the  "  chef  de 
poste,"  Monsieur  Andersson,  came  home.  He  was 
formerly  a  sub-officer  in  the  Swedish  field  artillery,  and 
then  "  agent  miUtaire  "  in  the  service  of  the  Belgian 
Congo  Government.    He  was  ready  to  meet  all  my 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  OKAPI  27 

wishes,  and  immediately  took  steps  to  facilitate  my 
hunting.  According  to  him  the  okapi  was  not  such 
a  rare  sight  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Angu.  But  its 
habit  of  having  no  permanent  abode,  and  of  going 
about  alone  excepting  during  the  breeding  season, 
seriously  increased  the  difficulties  of  hunting  it.  He 
was  of  opinion  that  a  clever  hunter  should  be  able  to 
find  one  in  less  than  a  week,  but  he  thought  I  had 
very  Httle  chance  of  gratifjdng  my  ambition  to  study 
the  animal's  mode  of  Hfe  or  to  shoot  a  specimen  my- 
self. Owing  to  the  dense  foUage  of  the  jungle,  it  was 
necessary  to  approach  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
animal,  and  this  no  white  man  could  accompUsh  in 
the  case  of  the  wary  okapi.  Consequently  he  was 
convinced  that  chance  alone  could  bring  one  of  these 
creatures  within  range  of  a  European. 

In  spite  of  this  discouraging  opinion,  I  could  not 
bring  myself  to  give  up  my  long  cherished  wish.  It 
took  numerous,  very  fatiguing  hunting  expeditions, 
in  the  compamy  of  an  experienced  native  hunter 
named  Koki,  to  bring  me  round  to  Andersson's  point 
of  view.  The  latter  had  once  seen  a  Hving  okapi,  a 
young  animal,  whose  photograph  appeared  in  several 
European  newspapers  in  the  year  1908.  The  natives 
had  caught  it  after  shooting  its  mother,  and  it  had 
lived  for  two  or  three  days  in  Angu.  From  his  obser- 
vations of  this  specimen,  Andersson  stated  that  the  gait 
of  an  okapi  is  an  amble  resembUng  that  of  a  giraffe. 

As  my  headquarters  Andersson  recommended  a 
small  village  belonging  to  the  chief  Koloka,  two  days' 
march  south  of  Angu,  and  he  kindly  offered  to  ac- 
company me  and  introduce  me  to  the  chief.  We 
arrived  at  Koloka's  residence  on  the  8th  of  June. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  village  are  Mobattis,  a  tribe 


28   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

belonging  to  the  large  Ababua  fanaily,  and  they  are 
almost  exclusively  hunters,  possessing  only  a  few 
banana  and  manioc  plantations.  As  in  the  case  of 
the  Asandes,  the  women  here  do  all  the  work  both 
in  the  fields  and  in  the  village.  The  men  spend  the 
whole  day  resting  on  wooden  couches,  smoking  huge 
pipes  filled  with  bad  tobacco  or  hemp,  and  imbibing 
large  quantities  of  a  kind  of  immature  wine  made 
from  bananas.  But  for  their  "  meat  hunger "  and 
the  Bula  matadi  (this  is  the  universal  native  name 
throughout  the  whole  of  Central  Africa  for  the  Belgian 
Congo  government),  these  happy  Congo  negroes  would 
spend  their  whole  lives  on  their  couches,  in  "  dolce 
far  niente."  But  they  are  great  meat  eaters  ;  can- 
nibalism is  strictly  forbidden,  and  a  few  dogs  and 
fowls,  which  constitute  their  only  domestic  animals, 
are  not  enough  to  satisfy  their  hunger.  So  now  and 
again  they  go  hunting. 

The  Belgian  Government  provides  another  trouble- 
some occupation  for  them.  Four  times  a  year  the 
authorities  collect  the  taxes,  which  until  recently 
were  paid  in  the  form  of  indiarubber.  Every  full- 
grown  man  was  obliged  to  deliver  two  pounds  each 
month.  In  the  course  of  time  indiarubber  has  be- 
come much  less  plentiful  in  the  forest,  and  in  order 
to  satisfy  these  demands,  the  natives  have  to  go  long 
distances  in  search  of  it.  Monsieur  Andersson  in- 
formed me  that  it  takes  the  negroes  three  months 
out  of  every  year  to  collect  the  equivalent  of  their 
taxes.  This  sounds  like  oppression,  but  in  reaUty 
it  is  only  a  wholesome  inducement  to  work. 

The  Government  pays  one  franc  in  kind  for  every 
kilo  of  indiarubber  that  is  brought  in,  and  receives 
in    the    market    at    Antwerp    approximately    fifteen 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  OKAPI  29 

francs  per  kilo.  The  small  station  of  Angu  produces 
every  year  twenty-five  tons  of  indiarubber,  and  five 
tons  of  ivory,  which  represents  a  value  of  about 
450,000  francs.  Andersson  estimated  the  total  ex- 
penses including  the  salaries  of  the  officials,  upkeep 
of  the  station,  carriage,  etc.,  at  about  15,000  francs 
per  annum.  So  that  this  tiny  station  alone  brings 
in  to  the  Belgian  Government  an  annual  revenue  of 
435,000  francs. 

Zobia,  the  principal  station  in  the  Uelle  district, 
produces  about  a  hundred  and  twenty  tons  of  india- 
rubber  per  annum.  The  revenue  from  the  whole  Uelle 
district  is  estimated  at  five  miUion  francs  per  annum, 
and  since  the  Belgian  Congo  comprises  fourteen 
districts,  the  immense  value  of  this  colony  is  evident. 

My  host  Koloka  had  a  somewhat  foolish  appearance. 
He  wore  a  second-hand  European  suit  of  clothes  and 
hat,  and  his  great,  round  eyes  expressed  good  humour, 
nervousness,  and  apprehension  as  they  rolled  rest- 
lessly to  and  fro.  Andersson  had  instructed  him  to 
minister  to  all  my  wants,  and  as  a  result,  Koloka 
would  not  let  me  walk  a  single  step  without  running 
after  me ;  this  often  became  very  troublesome  when 
I  was  out  hunting.  On  the  day  of  our  arrival  several 
neighbouring  chiefs  happened  to  be  visiting  Koloka, 
and  with  Andersson's  assistance  I  explained  my 
wishes  to  them.  I  wanted  specimens  of  all  the  animal 
denizens  of  the  jungle,  but  above  all  a  ndumbe 
and  a  bangana  or  Booceros  euryceros,  which  is 
the  name  of  another  huge  forest  antelope,  almost 
as  rare  as  the  okapi.  I  promised  to  pay  in  cloth, 
salt,  knives,  and  mirrors  for  the  commoner  animals, 
in  powder  and  percussion  caps  for  rarer  specimens, 
and  with  a  rifle  for  an  okapi  or  a  bangana.     After 


80   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

thus  setting  everjrthing  in  train  for  me,  Andersson 
returned  the  following  morning  to  his  post. 

During  the  fortnight  that  I  spent  in  this  forest 
village  I  collected  more  than  a  hundred  specimens 
of  mammaUa.  Very  rare  and  remarkable  animals 
were  brought  to  me,  amongst  them  many  that  I  had 
vainly  endeavoured  to  secure  during  my  first  Congo 
travels  :  charming  Httle  tufted  antelopes  that  never 
leave  the  semi-darkness  of  the  jungle,  long-tailed 
armadillos  with  pointed  snouts,  that  walk  on  their 
tarsal  bones  instead  of  on  their  toes,  four  different 
kinds  of  squirrels,  one  of  which  possesses  powerful 
wing-membranes  between  its  four  legs,  serving  as  a 
kind  of  parachute  when  it  leaps  from  tree  to  tree. 
(Ulus.  5.)  There  were  rats,  too,  as  large  as  cats,  each 
with  a  white  stomach,  a  white  tail,  and  a  huge  mous- 
tache ;  shrew-mice  as  large  as  guinea-pigs,  not  at 
all  savage,  and  with  large,  gentle,  brown  eyes ;  seven 
different  species  of  monkeys  of  all  colours  and  sizes ; 
two  night  monkeys,  with  eyes  that  shone  in  the  dark 
hke  phosphorus ;  porcupines,  not  the  common  East 
African  type,  but  the  rare  jungle  variety  {Atherura) 
with  long  tails  and  so  many  different  kinds  of  hairs, 
bristles,  quills,  and  scales  that  every  possible  hairy 
appendage  seemed  to  be  represented  in  their  coats. 
I  obtained  all  the  above  animals  and  many  more  besides. 

But  I  still  had  no  okapi,  and  my  chances  of  obtaining 
one  seemed  very  slender.  Soon  after  my  arrival  in 
Koloka's  village,  the  former  Congo  soldier  Koki,  whom 
I  have  already  mentioned,  came  from  Bondo  to  help 
me  in  my  hunting  expedition.  He  was  strongly  re- 
commended to  me  as  a  first-rate  hunter  by  Command- 
ant Bareau,  and  he  had  arranged  to  accompany  me 
from  Bondo.     But  the  day  before  my  departure  his 


12.   Matalani. 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  OKAPI  31 

wife,  as  she  was  fetching  water  from  the  Uelle,  was 
seized  by  a  crocodile,  drowned,  and  presumably 
eaten.  Fortunately  Koki  possessed  four  wives,  so 
that  the  loss  was  not  so  great  as  it  would  otherwise 
have  been,  but  he  spent  several  days  in  a  vain  search 
for  her  body.  He  was  a  model  of  strength  and  in- 
telligence, and  from  early  morning  until  late  evening 
he  roamed  with  me  all  over  the  country  surrounding 
Koloka. 

The  forest  which  is  the  home  of  the  okapi,  unlike 
many  other  parts  of  the  equatorial  jungle,  is  almost 
pathless.  Elephant  and  buffalo  tracks  provide  the 
only  possible  means  of  deviating  from  the  narrow 
native  foot-paths  which  connect  the  isolated  villages, 
and  of  penetrating  into  the  jungle  itself.  Fallen  tree- 
trunks,  dense  underwood  with  large  leaves,  thorns, 
Kanas,  swamps,  and  swollen  torrents  present  endless 
obstacles.  The  explorer  must  bore  his  way  onwards, 
chmbing,  crawling,  and  often  wading  neck- deep  in  water, 
and  all  this  in  a  sultry  heat  which  makes  him  perspire 
from  every  pore,  amid  a  dank,  poisonous  exhalation 
rising  from  the  ground,  and  the  depressing  influence 
of  the  monotonous,  evergreen  foliage.  Far-reaching 
modern  rifles,  and  powerful  field-glasses  are  quite  use- 
less here.  In  order  to  see  the  game  it  is  necessary  to 
come  within  ten  or  twenty  yards  of  it,  and  at  this  dis- 
tance the  strong  Mobatti  lance  or  the  percussion  gun 
of  the  natives,  the  "  fusil  a  piston,"  is  quite  as  effective. 
I  grew  more  and  more  hopeless,  and  at  last  came  to 
the  melancholy  conclusion  that  so  far  as  shooting  an 
okapi  was  concerned,  I  was  doomed  to  disappointment. 

My  health  had  suffered  from  the  cold,  damp  nights 
spent  in  my  thin-walled  tent,  from  the  dense  fogs 
which  seldom  dispersed  before  midday,  and  from  the 


32   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

incessant  rain,  which  had  converted  the  jungle,  damp 
as  it  is  even  during  the  dry  season,  into  one  continuous 
swamp.  All  these  hardships  told  on  my  constitution, 
already  undermined  by  the  fatigues  of  travelling.  A 
chill  finally  brought  on  fever,  and  obliged  me  to  spend 
several  days  in  bed. 

So,  like  all  my  predecessors,  I  was  obliged  to  fall 
back  upon  the  skill  of  the  native  hunters.  So  far, 
however,  they  had  not  succeeded  in  kilUng  an  okapi, 
and  evening  after  evening  they  returned  empty-handed 
to  camp.  They  pretended  that  the  indiarubber 
hunters  had  frightened  away  the  okapis,  or  else  that 
they  had  themselves  shot  one  but  that  it  had  got  away. 
Their  powder  was  finished  and  I  must  supply  them 
with  more.  Powder  was  their  one  desire,  just  as  an 
okapi  was  mine. 

At  last  one  evening,  as  I  sat  in  front  of  my  tent 
after  spending  the  day  in  bed,  a  breathless  messenger 
announced  that  Etumbamingi  had  shot  an  okapi. 

"Is  it  really  dead  ?  "  I  asked,  accustomed  as  I  was 
to  being  told  that  it  had  escaped  after  having  been 
wounded. 

I  was  assured  that  it  was  quite  dead,  and  that  it 
was  lying  in  the  thickest  part  of  the  jungle,  four  hours' 
journey  from  my  camp.  I  roused  my  men  and  ex- 
plained to  them  how  important  it  was  to  secure  the 
skin  and  skeleton  in  good  condition,  and  sent  them 
off  the  same  evening  to  the  place  where  the  dead  animal 
lay.  In  spite  of  my  weak  state,  I  endeavoured  the 
following  morning  to  get  there  myself,  but  on  the  way 
I  fell  in  with  the  bearers  bringing  the  skin  and  skeleton 
back  to  camp. 

Scarcely  was  the  preservation  of  the  okapi  skin  com- 
pleted (illus.  6)  when  the  neighbouring  Asande  chief. 


I 


THE  HOIME  OF  THE  OKAPI  33 

Mussiimba,  sent  me  a  specimen  of  a  bangana,  another 
species  of  large-striped  antelope.  It  was  not  full- 
grown,  but  was  a  one  year  old  animal  with  a  beautiful 
coat,  about  the  size  of  a  fallow  deer.  I  remained  in 
Koloka  hoping  that  I  might  secure  a  second  example 
of  one  or  other  of  these  rare  creatures,  but  an  alarming 
incident  obhged  me  to  cut  short  my  zoological  work. 

One  evening  a  messenger  came  running  from  Angu. 
He  had  accomplished  the  thirty  miles  in  one  day,  and 
had  been  sent  by  the  black  sergeant  to  tell  me  that 
Andersson  was  lying  seriously  ill,  and  that  in  his 
dehrium  he  had  been  shooting  at  his  "  boys."  The 
news  alarmed  me  very  much ;  Andersson  had  boasted 
to  me  that  he  was  so  thoroughly  acclimatised  to  Africa 
that  he  was  immune  to  fever  and  did  not  need  to  take 
quinine  regularly.  And  yet  now,  but  a  fortnight 
later,  he  was  lying  seriously  ill.  I  sent  hurriedly  for 
bearers,  and  the  following  morning  set  off  at  full  speed. 
I  was  feeling  too  weak  to  walk  the  whole  distance  in 
one  day,  so  my  deck-chair  was  fastened  to  two  strong 
poles,  and  was  carried  by  twelve  men,  who  were  changed 
at  intervals.  At  five  o'clock  in  the  evening,  feverish 
and  exhausted  by  the  long  and  uncomfortable  journey, 
I  reached  Angu.  All  the  time  I  had  been  wondering 
whether  Andersson  would  recognise  me,  or  whether 
he  might  not  possibly  shoot  me  with  his  revolver. 

An  hour  before  arriving  in  Angu  I  met  a  European 
ivory  dealer  who  had  pitched  his  tent  in  the  middle 
of  the  path.  As  is  usual  in  the  Congo,  I  addressed 
him  in  French.  He  mumbled  his  name,  and  asked 
me  whether  I  spoke  English.  I  replied  in  the  affir- 
mative, and  we  chatted  for  a  few  minutes  about  the 
difficulties  of  travelling,  and  then  he  informed  me 
that  Andersson  was  still  aUve,  but  seriously  ill,  and 


34        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

"  somewhat  foolish."  He  had  passed  through  Angu 
that  morning  but  had  not  troubled  to  visit  the  sick 
man.  There  are  such  people  even  in  Africa !  Two 
days  later  I  came  across  his  papers  in  Angu,  and  dis- 
covered that  the  fellow  was  a  German.  He  had  not 
said  a  word  when  I  told  him  that  I  was  a  "  member 
of  the  Duke  of  Mecklenberg's  expedition,"  and  had 
persisted  in  his  statement  that  he  was  an  Englishman. 
Presumably  he  had  his  own  private  reasons  for  con- 
cealing his  nationality. 

Andersson  seemed  to  have  passed  safely  through 
the  dangerous  crisis,  but  still  appeared  to  be  very  ill. 
He  was  much  troubled  by  what  he  had  done,  and  I 
had  great  difficulty  in  persuading  him  that  he  was 
not  responsible  for  his  actions  when  delirious.  I  did 
my  best  to  restore  him  to  health,  both  mental  and 
physical,  but  it  was  a  hard  task.  His  soUtary  Ufe 
in  Angu  (I  was  the  first  white  man  whom  he  had  seen 
in  seven  months,  and  the  second  in  a  whole  year), 
and  his  troubles  with  his  subordinates  had  embittered 
him,  rendering  him  suspicious  and  irritable,  whilst 
his  powers  of  resistance  had  been  weakened  by  the 
wretched  food  and  sleeplessness,  the  latter  being  a 
common  trouble  in  Africa.  I  saw  at  once  that  I  could 
not  leave  Angu  without  endangering  his  life,  until 
a  man  should  be  sent  to  supersede  him.  I  wrote  to 
the  "  chef  de  zone  "  in  Buta  explaining  the  situation, 
and  a  week  later  Andersson's  successor  had  arrived. 

My  efforts  to  add  to  my  zoological  collection  for- 
tunately met  with  considerable  success.  I  sent  the 
natives  hunting  within  a  radius  of  about  twenty  miles 
of  Angu,  and  it  was  the  indefatigable  Etumbamingi 
who  realised  my  ambition  to  secure  a  second  okapi 
and  a  second  bangana.     One  day,  when  I  had  more 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  OKAPI  35 

or  less  shaken  off  my  attack  of  fever,  news  was  brought 
that  this  clever  hunter  had  shot  a  bangana,  and  at 
midnight  twelve  sturdy  natives  carried  it  into  the 
station.  A  few  days  later  the  second  okapi  was 
secured. 

It  was  near  sunrise,  and  the  rain  was  falHng  in 
torrents.  The  exciting  news  that  Etumbamingi  had 
killed  an  okapi  brought  me  hurriedly  out  of  bed,  but 
I  did  not  feel  very  sanguine  of  being  able  to  see  and 
photograph  the  animal,  for  the  sky  was  black  and 
menacing,  and  the  morning  was  almost  as  dark  as  a 
November  day  at  home.  The  roads  were  ankle-deep 
in  mud,  and  the  swampy  jungle  was  well-nigh  im- 
passable. I  was  still  very  weak,  but  the  joy  and 
excitement  of  securing  this  new  prize  sustained  me. 

Andersson  despatched  four  soldiers  and  twenty 
bearers,  with  strict  orders  to  convey  the  okapi  to  the 
nearest  village,  and  as  soon  as  the  rain  had  stopped 
I  hastened  thither  to  take  the  coveted  photographs. 
Unfortunately  it  did  not  cease  raining  until  the  after- 
noon, and  the  sun  was  already  setting  when  I  arrived. 
There  was  no  sign  of  the  okapi,  and  no  sound  of  ap- 
proaching bearers ;  I  hurriedly  sought  a  guide,  and 
at  last  found  a  young  man  who  professed  to  know 
his  way  through  the  bush.  But  our  advance  was 
hindered  by  swamps  and  briars,  and  I  soon  realised 
the  futiUty  of  proceeding  any  further.  Twilight  was 
rapidly  descending  upon  the  forest,  and  there  was 
scarcely  enough  light  even  now  for  taking  a  photograph. 
So  I  decided  to  wait  in  an  abandoned  banana  planta- 
tion, and  sent  the  natives  in  search  of  the  okapi,  with 
instructions  to  urge  on  the  bearers  to  their  utmost 
speed.  If  they  were  not  on  the  spot  within  half  an 
hour,  all  my  efforts  would  have  been  in  vain.    The 


36        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

minutes  passed  all  too  quickly.  It  was  half  past 
five,  and  by  six  o'clock  the  daylight  would  have  dis- 
appeared entirely.  At  length  I  heard  in  the  distance 
the  sound  of  shouting,  scolding  negro  voices,  which 
must  surely  herald  the  approach  of  the  okapi. 

I  could  scarcely  contain  my  impatience,  but  at  last 
the  head  of  the  advancing  procession  came  into  view. 
An  animal,  about  the  size  and  weight  of  a  horse,  was 
suspended  by  the  legs  from  a  young  tree,  carried 
at  each  end  by  fifteen  staggering,  panting  negroes, 
urged  on  by  scolding  soldiers.  The  dead  okapi  formed 
a  striking  picture,  with  its  powerful  dark-brown  body, 
the  disproportionately  long  neck,  the  black  donkey's 
ears  above  the  grey  face  with  its  long  protruding 
tongue,  the  large,  dark,  staring  eyes,  and  the  beauti- 
ful, slender,  black  and  white  striped  legs.  With  all 
possible  speed  I  made  several  time  exposures  in  various 
positions,  so  that  notwithstanding  the  semi-darkness, 
I  might  be  sure  of  having  at  least  one  successful 
photograph.  From  a  photograph  (illus.  7)  Heims 
painted  the  picture  of  the  living  okapi  which  adorns 
the  cover  of  Volume  II.,  and  this  is  the  first  time  that 
the  gait  peculiar  to  this  animal  has  ever  been  depicted. 
The  other  specimen  of  the  Ocapia  johnstoni  was  stuffed, 
and  can  be  seen  in  the  Frankfort-on-Main  museum. 
(Illus.  8.) 

My  last  days  in  Angu  were  devoted  to  drying, 
labelling,  and  packing  the  specimens  that  I  had  col- 
lected. It  was  a  pleasant  change  to  meet  a  party  of 
Europeans,  who  were  travelling  down  the  Uelle  on 
their  way  home.  I  felt  particularly  attracted  to- 
wards a  young  Belgian  officer,  named  Captain  de 
Labarre.  We  spent  a  very  agreeable  evening  to- 
gether, and  it  was  a  great  pleasure  to  be  once  more 


■^  j»-  ^ 

15.   Mangbatu  village  with  oil  palms. 


16.    Mangbatu  with  plaited  beard. 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  OKAPI  37 

in  the  company  of  an  educated  man.  When  we  said 
good-bye  the  following  morning,  we  expressed  the 
hope  of  meeting  again  some  day  either  in  Brussels 
or  in  Berlin.  But  unfortunately  this  was  not  to  be. 
A  few  days  later  during  the  final  stage  of  the  voyage 
from  Likati,  de  Labarre  was  pushed  overboard  by 
his  boatmen,  and  drowned  together  with  his  "  boys." 
Events  of  this  kind  forcibly  impress  upon  one's  mind 
the  fact  that  travelling  in  this  country  is  after  all  not 
as  safe  as  it  is  at  home  !  Poor  de  Labarre  !  In  an- 
other five  days  he  would  have  been  on  board  the 
steamer,  and  he  was  looking  forward  so  joyfully  to 
his  return  to  civilisation. 

A  week  later  another  traveller  visited  Angu : 
Monsieur  de  Calonne-Beaufaict,  the  chief  engineer 
of  the  railway  which  is  being  constructed  between 
Buta  and  Bambili.  My  first  impression  of  him  was 
not  very  favourable.  He  was  dressed  in  a  worn-out 
hunting  coat  and  an  exceedingly  shabby  hat ;  his 
beard  was  long  and  shaggy,  and  had  evidently  not 
been  trimmed  for  many  years.  He  seemed  to  me 
to  be  one  of  those  men  who  think  that  here  among 
the  savages  they  must  live  like  savages,  and  he  re- 
minded me  of  the  elephant  hunter,  CoqueUn.  But 
I  soon  found  that  I  had  to  do  with  an  exceedingly 
clever,  well-educated  and  cultivated  individual,  who 
had  come  to  Africa  not  because  he  could  not  find 
work  in  Europe  or  for  any  other  unsatisfactory  reason, 
but  because  he  was  genuinely  interested  in  this  country. 
The  explanation  of  his  somewhat  neglected  appear- 
ance was  simply  that  he  had  been  far  away  from  civili- 
sation for  two  years  and  a  half,  and  was  still  suffering 
from  the  effects  of  an  attack  of  blackwater  fever. 

His  speciahty  was  the  ethnology  and  sociology  of 


88   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

the  country.  His  excellent  books  dealing  with  the 
Ababuas  and  Bakangos  prove  that  he  possessed  to  a 
high  decree  the  gift  of  mastering  the  native  languages, 
and  of  acquiring  the  confidence  of  the  aborigines. 
Calonne  intended  to  leave  Angu  the  day  after  his 
arrival,  but  he  remained  three  days,  and  we  sat 
up  till  after  midnight,  an  unusually  late  hour  in 
Africa,  enjoying  the  most  absorbingly  interesting 
conversations. 

My  baggage  was  so  much  increased  by  my  large 
zoological  collection  that  it  was  impossible  to  procure 
enough  bearers  to  take  it  all  with  me.  I  therefore 
entrusted  a  great  part  of  it  to  Andersson's  successor, 
begging  him  to  despatch  it  by  land  to  Likati,  and 
thence  by  boat  to  Ibembo.  Here  it  would  be  picked 
up  by  a  steamer  belonging  to  the  German  Company 
that  had  undertaken  the  transport  of  all  the  baggage 
of  our  expedition.  This  route  therefore  appeared  to 
me  to  be  the  safest  as  well  as  the  shortest.  Great 
was  my  consternation  when  in  January  of  this  year 
(1912)  I  learned  that  this  valuable  collection  was 
lost.  Although  I  had  paid  in  advance  the  carriage 
by  land  as  far  as  Likati,  the  cases  had  been  sent  by 
water,  and  the  boat  had  been  swamped  in  a  whirl- 
pool between  Angu  and  Bondo.  All  the  contents 
had  fallen  into  the  river,  and  out  of  the  few  cases 
which  were  recovered,  most  of  them  arrived  with 
their  contents  utterly  ruined.  But  by  great  good  for- 
tune the  two  okapi  skeletons  were  among  the  things 
that  were  saved,  and  they  are  now  in  the  Frankfort 
and  Hamburg  zoological  museums. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

THE  MANGBETTU   COUNTRY 

When  I  left  Angu  the  greater  part  of  my  zoological 
work  was  accomplished,  for  I  had  em'iched  my  collection 
by  a  great  many  scientifically  valuable  specimens  of 
the  fauna  of  the  district  which  up  to  the  present  was 
not  represented  in  any  German  zoological  museum. 
But  before  turning  my  steps  towards  home,  there  were 
still  two  matters  in  the  Uelle  district  that  I  wished  to 
investigate ;  first  the  Association  for  taming  and 
breaking  in  elephants,  and  second  the  Mangbettu 
people. 

I  was  obliged  to  go  a  little  out  of  my  way  in  order 
to  reach  the  headquarters  of  the  Association  at  Api 
on  the  Uere  River,  a  northern  tributary  of  the 
Uelle. 

Accompanied  by  native  guides,  I  marched  along 
the  northern  bank  of  the  Uelle  from  Angu  to  Api. 
The  station  of  Api  resembles  a  large  country  house, 
and  its  situation  and  development  reflect  great  credit 
on  the  builder.  Commandant  Laplume.  The  latter  is 
one  of  the  oldest  Congo  officials,  and  is  at  the  head  of 
the  Association,  with  a  Ueutenant  and  a  practical  farmer 
as  his  subordinates. 

There  are  about  thirty  elephants,  all  of  them  young 
animals  from  five  to  eight  feet  in  height,  in  a  large 
yard  containing  sheds  and  surrounded  by  a  high 
stockade.    At  night  and  during  the  hottest  part  of  the 


40        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

day  they  remain  in  the  yard,  but  the  rest  of  their  time 
is  spent  in  the  pasture  land  round  the  station,  in  charge 
of  native  attendants.  At  sunset,  after  a  refreshing 
bath  in  the  neighbouring  river,  they  are  brought  back 
to  the  sheds.  (Illus.  9).  In  the  absence  of  the  Com- 
mandant, the  officer  in  charge  of  the  station  dechned 
to  allow  me  to  witness  the  capture  of  wild  elephants, 
which  is  effected  in  the  following  manner  : — 

A  dozen  trained  natives,  known  as  comacs,  four  of 
them  armed  with  rifles,  and  the  remainder  carrying 
strong  ropes  and  nooses,  approach  as  near  as  possible 
to  a  herd  of  elephants  which  is  known  to  include  some 
cows  with  their  calves.  Yelling  and  shouting  they 
rush  upon  the  herd,  causing  the  animals  to  disperse 
in  terror.  Those  of  the  men  that  are  provided  with 
ropes  then  pursue  a  previously  selected  calf,  and  seizing 
it  by  the  trunk,  ears,  and  tail,  they  further  secure  it  by 
means  of  nooses  round  its  neck,  body,  and  hind-legs. 

Meanwhile  the  men  armed  with  rifles  fire  them  off 
into  the  air,  so  as  to  frighten  away  the  rest  of  the  herd, 
and  may  even  be  obUged  to  kill  the  mother  elephant, 
should  she  return  on  hearing  the  pitiful  cries  of  her 
offspring,  and  refuse  to  be  driven  away.  It  is  no 
easy  matter  to  drag  the  captive  back  to  camp ;  it 
naturally  resists  with  all  its  might,  and  some  of  the 
men  pull  it  along  by  the  neck,  while  others  belabour 
it  from  behind.  Sometimes,  in  a  rage,  it  endeavours 
to  attack  the  foremost  hunters,  but  those  behind 
restrain  it  by  means  of  the  nooses.  Fatal  accidents 
are  very  rare,  though  the  hunters  often  receive  wounds. 
This  does  not  deter  the  brave  and  warlike  Asandes, 
from  whom  the  cornacs  are  recruited  ;  they  apparently 
enjoy  the  excitement  of  their  dangerous  calHng,  and 
whereas   they   formerly   confined    their   attention    to 


17.   Mangbatu  in  bark  aprons. 


^Hf^^aBM 

^"^-^^^  * 

1                  \                       V        ^ 

^B  0  -< '  f^^^N.-^ 

18.   Mangbatu  woman  and  child,  with  cords  about  the   x 
forehead  and  upper  part  of  skull. 


.o 
en 

c 
re 

s 


o 

3 
O 

u 


THE  MANGBETTU  COUNTRY  41 

the  smallest  calves,  they  now  capture  larger  elephants, 
up  to  five  feet  in  height. 

On  its  arrival  in  camp  the  captive  is  placed  in  a 
temporary  kraal  made  of  large  tree  trunks,  and  divided 
into  several  compartments,  one  for  each  elephant. 
As  soon  as  six  or  more  have  been  caught,  they  are 
removed  to  Api,  where  they  are  given  in  charge  of 
tame  elephants.  Those  that  have  been  the  longest 
in  captivity  take  care  of  the  new  arrivals  in  the  most 
touching  manner,  protecting  them  from  molestation 
by  their  companions,  and  endeavouring  to  console 
them  for  the  loss  of  their  liberty.  Within  six  weeks 
the  new  arrivals  are  so  far  tamed  that  they  are  allowed 
to  accompany  their  seniors  to  pasture. 

It  is  surprising  how  few  elephants  are  lost  from  the 
station,  considering  the  liberty  they  enjoy.  It  is 
very  seldom  that  an  animal  is  missing,  but  on  the 
other  hand  it  occasionally  happens  that  some  trivial 
occurrence,  such  as  the  crash  of  a  falling  tree,  the  sudden 
appearance  of  a  monkey,  or  even  the  fall  of  a  large 
fruit,  will  cause  the  whole  herd  to  lose  their  heads 
and  stampede.  In  this  case  it  often  takes  weeks  to 
recover  the  scattered  animals.  There  are  also  many 
losses  due  to  death  from  digestive  troubles  and  other 
obscure  maladies,  so  that  the  herd  grows  very  slowly, 
and  numbers  only  some  thirty  odd,  although  the  under- 
taking has  been  on  foot  for  more  than  ten  years. 

The  elephants  that  have  been  some  time  in  captivity 
are  trained  to  work ;  they  are  harnessed  to  carts,  and 
fetch  all  the  building  materials  required  on  the  station. 
I  went  for  a  drive  in  a  cart  drawn  by  a  team  of  elephants  ; 
they  worked  willingly,  and  obeyed  the  least  sign  of  the 
cornacs  sitting  on  their  backs,  but  as  they  constantly 
nibbled  by  the  wayside,   snatching  here  and  there  a 


42       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

handful  of  grass  or  the  branch  of  a  tree,  the  pace  was 
not  very  rapid.  They  are  also  used  for  ploughing, 
but  they  are  of  no  great  practical  utihty  for  serious 
work.    (Illus.  10.) 

The  prospects  of  this  undertaking  at  Api  are  not 
on  the  whole  very  promising.  It  has  indeed  been 
conclusively  proved  that  it  is  possible  to  tame  and 
train  the  African  elephant,  but  the  practical  results 
are  almost  nil,  and  seem  scarcely  to  justify  the  expense 
of  over  a  million  francs  that  has  been  incurred.  I  very 
much  doubt  whether  elephants  will  ever  be  made  as 
useful  in  Africa  as  they  are  in  India,  for  it  must  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  Indian  roads  are  very  superior 
to  the  African,  most  of  them  being  adapted  for  motor 
traffic,  whereas  in  the  interior  of  Africa  there  is 
scarcely  a  bridge  passable  for  a  horse,  much  less  for 
an  elephant. 

An  accidental  meeting  with  Commandant  Bareau, 
my  kind  host  in  Bondo,  was  a  pleasant  surprise  for 
me  one  day  during  my  stay  in  Api.  He  had  been 
appointed  "  Chef  de  la  zone  de  Gom-ba-Dungu,"  and 
was  on  his  way  to  his  new  residence,  so  as  I  intended 
journeying  to  the  Mangbettu  country  without  making 
any  prolonged  halt,  we  were  able  to  travel  part  of  the 
way  together.  The  Commandant  was  accompanied 
by  a  large  caravan  which  comprised  a  number  of  Hving 
creatures  besides  his  baggage,  namely,  his  three  "  boys  " 
and  their  wives,  two  mulatto  babies,  whose  parents 
were  dead,  a  horse,  a  mule,  a  handsome  collie,  some 
monkeys,  and  a  basket  full  of  ducks.  The  strangest 
member  of  the  party  was  a  pig,  which  was  so  fond  of 
the  mule  that  he  kept  beside  it  day  and  night.  When 
the  1^  Commandant  rode  his  mule,  the  pig  galloped 
merrily  along  at  his  side,  bravely  swimming  the  rivers, 


21.    Mangbatu  children:   the  girl  with  deformed  skull. 


^i 

^ 

A 

^'^^HM^^^^^ 

^  .^ikk. 

'"^^f^r'' 

KiMR    1 

aife      ,  -^^^ 

wt^^ 

"- 

«A 

J^^^.^ 

w 

'isim 

22.   Mangbatu  maiden  at  her  toilet. 


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THE  MANGBETTU  COUNTRY  43 

and  showing  his  pleasure  at  meeting  his  big  friend  on 
the  other  bank  by  rubbing  his  snout  against  its  heels. 
This  the  mule  did  not  resent,  although  as  a  rule  it  was 
ill-tempered  and  given  to  kicking.  But  the  long 
journey  was  too  much  for  the  poor  pig's  legs,  and 
shortly  before  his  master  reached  Dungu  the  dear, 
faithful  creature,  which  had  so  often  entertained  us 
by  his  antics,  died  of  exhaustion. 

The  Mangbettus  are  famous  throughout  the  Congo 
for  their  intelligence,  their  physical  beauty,  their  skill 
in  making  all  kinds  of  implements,  as  well  as  for 
their  wonderfully  good  taste,  and  they  have  attained 
in  the  Congo  basin  a  position  similar  to  that  held 
by  the  French  in  Europe  during  the  seventeenth 
century. 

Bareau  advised  me  to  pay  a  visit  to  Sultan  Okondo, 
the  greatest  of  the  Mangbettu  chiefs,  whose  residence 
was  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Niangara. 

Bambili  is  the  largest  station  on  the  Uelle,  and  it 
was  here  that  I  first  made  acquaintance  with  the 
Mangbettus.  Amongst  a  crowd  of  women  dancing 
to  the  sound  of  a  concertina,  the  graceful  movements 
of  a  girl  attracted  my  attention,  and  in  reply  to  my 
questions,  I  was  informed  that  her  name  was  Matalani, 
and  that  she  was  a  Mangbettu  maiden. 

Matalani  proved  to  be  a  princess  of  the  blood.  Her 
father  was  the  chief  Denge,  living  between  Niangara 
and  Dungu,  and  her  mother  was  the  daughter  of  Munza, 
a  powerful  Mangbettu  king.  The  natural  grace  of 
her  carriage,  her  beautiful  Uttle  hands  and  feet,  and 
her  intelligent  face,  betrayed  her  noble  birth.  She 
was  civilized,  that  is  to  say,  she  wore  a  dark  blue 
cotton  toga,  in  place  of  the  short  skirt  worn  by  Mang- 
bettu women.     Her  hair  was   carefully  dressed,  and 


44        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

her  head  was  elongated,  owing  to  its  having  been 
artificially  deformed  in  her  childhood,  according  to 
the  Mangbettu  custom.  Her  only  ornaments  were 
a  pair  of  bracelets,  made  of  white  metal  and  the  tail 
hairs  of  an  elephant,  and  they  showed  to  advantage 
her  slender  wrists  and  the  bronze  colouring  of  her 
satin  skin.  A  handful  of  cigarettes  secured  her  friend- 
ship, and  she  wiUingly  allowed  me  to  photograph  her. 
(lUus.  12.) 

Unfortunately  Commandant  Bareau  was  obliged  to 
leave  Bambili  the  day  after  our  arrival,  without  allowing 
himself  so  much  as  a  day's  rest.  The  former  "Chef 
de  zone  "  of  Gurba-Dungu  had  been  murdered,  and 
the  presence  of  his  energetic  successor  was  urgently 
needed.  His  bearers  had  been  awaiting  him  for  some 
time,  but  mine  would  not  be  forthcoming  for  two  or 
three  days,  so  that  the  Commandant  and  I  were 
obliged  here  to  part  company. 

The  large  Ababua  tribe  inhabits  both  banks  of  the 
Bima  River  south  of  the  Uelle  and  the  Bomokandi. 
My  new  bearers  were  of  this  people  :  powerful,  savage- 
looking  men,  whose  principal  adornment,  apart  from 
extensive  tattooing,  consisted  in  numerous  brass  or 
iron  rings  drawn  through  the  lobes  of  their  ears. 
(lUus.  13.) 

With  these  men  I  travelled  to  Amadi  and  Surango, 
two  small  stations  on  the  Uelle.  The  country  further 
south  is  inhabited  by  the  Amadis  and  Abarambos 
(illus.  14),  two  small  but  warlike  tribes,  which  before 
the  advent  of  the  Europeans,  were  constantly  at  war 
with  their  more  powerful  neighbours,  the  Mangbettus. 

I  came  across  the  first  Mangbettu  villages  between 
Surango  and  Niangara  ;  they  are  much  more  numerous 
south   of   Niangara,    and   extend   far    into   the    great 


THE  MANGBETTU  COUNTRY  45 

primeval  forest,  as  far  as  the  Nepoko  and  the  Ituri- 
Aruwimi. 

Niangara  is  the  largest  Belgian  station  in  the 
Mangbettu  district.  It  is  the  residence  of  a  "  Chef 
de  zone,"  and  possesses  a  tribunal  composed  of  three 
judges.  Formerly  it  was  the  seat  of  the  Chief  of  the 
Uelle  district,  who  lived  in  a  large,  castellated  house. 
In  front  of  it  is  an  obelisk  bearing  the  name  "  Chaltin," 
the  victor  of  Redjaf,  and  two  bronze  cannons  with  a 
heap  of  cannon-balls  bear  witness  to  the  famous  victory 
of  the  Belgian  troops  over  the  Dervishes. 

The  "  Chef  de  zone  "  agreed  with  me  as  to  the  advisa- 
bility of  my  spending  a  week  or  two  as  the  guest  of 
Sultan  Okondo,  in  order  to  study  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  Mangbettu  people.  The  morning  after 
my  arrival  I  set  out  for  the  village  of  this  great  Mang- 
bettu cliief,  which  is  only  four  or  five  hours'  march 
from  Niangara.  The  road  leads  through  a  wide  savannah 
as  far  as  the  wooded  banks  of  the  Gada  River, 
and  then  it  winds  between  numerous  Mangbettu  huts, 
in  a  densely  populated  country.  The  natives  greeted 
the  white  travellers  in  a  friendly  and  respectful  manner, 
but  without  servility. 

The  weather  was  perfect,  and  the  heat  much  less 
oppressive.  It  was  afternoon,  so  that  the  sun's  rays 
were  no  longer  perpendicular,  and  they  tinged  the 
broad  banana  leaves  with  gold,  and  the  rivulets  with 
silver,  imparting  at  the  same  time  a  rosy  hue  to  the 
cone-shaped  roofs  of  the  Mangbettu  huts.  As  I  rode 
briskly  along  on  my  white  pony,  I  called  to  mind  the 
names  of  all  the  famous  explorers  who  had  travelled 
this  way  before  me :  Schweinfurth,  Junker,  Emin  Pasha, 
and  Casati.  I  was  familiar  with  all  the  descriptions 
of  their  experiences,  but  none  had  made  so  vivid  an 


46        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

impression  on  my  mind  as  Schweinfurth's  inspiring 
narrative  of  his  visit  to  King  Munza.  I  wondered 
whether  my  experiences  would  prove  equally  interesting, 
or  whether  advancing  civihzation  would  have  combined 
with  European  tutelage  to  deprive  the  Mangbettu 
people  of  their  charm. 

I  heard  in  the  distance  the  deep  tones  of  a  mighty 
gong,  mingling  with  those  of  drums  and  various  wind 
instruments,  as  well  as  the  singing  of  hundreds  of 
voices.  A  messenger  brought  word  that  Okondo  was 
preparing  a  magnificent  reception  in  my  honour,  so 
I  spurred  on  my  mule  to  its  utmost  speed.  After 
crossing  the  last  stream,  I  left  the  forest  behind  me, 
and  came  to  a  large  open  plateau,  about  a  third  of  a 
mile  in  width.  Numerous  Mangbettu  huts  were  built 
round  its  circumference,  while  on  the  north  side  was 
Okondo's  palace,  surrounded  by  a  high  stockade.  In 
the  middle  of  the  plateau  I  saw  a  very  remarkable 
building,  facing  east  and  west,  open  on  all  sides,  and 
about  the  size  of  an  average  railway  station.  This 
was  the  great  Mangbettu  Assembly  Hall  or  hassa, 
graphically  described  by  Schweinfurth  as  the  scene 
of  his  reception  by  Munza.  The  whole  broad  space 
in  front  of  Okondo's  palace  was  literally  black  with 
people,  and  thousands  of  men,  women,  and  children 
were  dancing  with  manifest  enthusiasm.  The  sultan, 
surrounded  by  his  ministers  and  his  four  favourite 
wives,  emerged  from  the  throng,  and  came  forward 
to  greet  me. 

Okondo  himself  was  not  in  keeping  with  the  rest  of 
the  picture.  He  is  a  tall  man  in  the  prime  of  life, 
with  an  intelligent  face  framed  by  a  heavy,  black 
beard,  but  showing  traces  of  alcohohc  excess.  He 
was  badly  dressed  in  European  clothes,  with  lace  boots 


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THE  MANGBETTU  COUNTRY  47 

and  leather  gaiters,  drill  trousers  that  had  once  been 
white,  and  a  blue  shirt.  His  head  was  covered  with 
an  ugly  Enghsh  cap.  He  welcomed  me  politely, 
and  invited  me  to  take  up  my  abode  inside  his 
zariba,  a  large,  scrupulously  clean  hut  being  assigned 
to  me, 

I  spent  ten  days  as  Okondo's  guest,  and  busied 
myself  from  morning  till  night  investigating  the  manners 
and  customs  of  the  Mangbettu  people,  and  collecting 
facts  concerning  their  history.  I  found  that  their 
habits  had  considerably  altered  since  Schweinfurth's 
time,  not  altogether  for  the  better. 

It  is  very  fortunate  that  such  an  accurate  observer 
as  George  Schweinfurth  should  have  visited  this 
exceptionally  interesting  and  peculiar  tribe  just  before 
the  beginning  of  a  new  epoch  in  its  existence. 

In  April  1870  Schweinfurth  was  the  guest  of  King 
Munza,  whose  residence  was  built  on  almost  the  same 
site  as  that  of  Okondo  at  the  present  time.  The 
kingdom  was  broken  up  on  the  death  of  Munza  in 
1871,  and  he  was  the  last  of  the  great  Mangbettu  kings, 
who  have  now  become  almost  legendary,  and  whose 
character  and  royal  household  were  so  ably  portrayed 
by  Schweinfurth.  This  typical  African  despot,  who 
combined  great  personal  dignity  with  well-nigh  in- 
credible cruelty,  lost  his  life  in  a  fight  with  some  ivory 
and  slave  traders  from  Khartoum.  A  civil  war  broke 
out  after  Munza's  death,  and  was  fostered  by  the 
Egyptian  Government.  Munza's  dynasty  became 
extinct  in  the  male  line,  and  his  kingdom  was  broken 
up  into  several  small  principalities  governed  by  Abangba 
princes. 

The  Mangbettu  country  comprises  not  more  than 
250  square  miles,  but  it  is  more  densely  populated 


48   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

than  any  other  part  of  the  Continent.  Most  of  the 
villages  contain  over  a  hundred  huts,  and  the  estimate 
of  four  thousand  inhabitants  to  the  square  mile  is 
probably  not  excessive.  This  would  give  a  population 
of  nearly  a  million. 

Everyone  who  visits  the  Mangbettu  country  agrees 
in  describing  it  as  an  earthly  Paradise.  It  is  about 
three  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  level,  and  many 
swiftly  flowing  streams  rise  in  the  hills  and  pour 
their  water  into  the  three  great  rivers  :  the  Uelle, 
the  Bomokandi,  and  the  Aruwimi.  The  vegetation 
is  everywhere  luxuriant,  and  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  rivers  the  soil  is  particularly  fertile.  The  Mang- 
bettus  are  agriculturalists  only  in  a  comparatively 
restricted  sense,  for  the  natural  fertiUty  of  the  ground 
causes  the  crops  to  grow  almost  of  their  own  accord. 
Bananas  constitute  their  chief  food,  also  manioc,  yams, 
and  ground  nuts,  with  luxuries  such  as  sugar-cane 
and  tobacco. 

In  all  the  villages  in  Equatorial  Africa  there  grows 
a  tree  the  Urostigma  kotschyana,  which  is  greatly  valued 
by  the  natives  on  account  of  its  bark,  which  after 
having  been  softened  by  beating,  is  made  into  a  durable, 
woolly  material.  Cheap  cotton  stuffs  made  in  Germany, 
have  been  imported  by  the  Mangbettus  during  the 
last  thirty  years,  but  to  a  much  smaller  extent  than 
among  other  tribes.  Loin  cloths  of  cotton,  which  are 
to  be  seen  almost  everywhere  in  Central  Africa,  even 
amongst  the  poorest  tribes,  are  here  despised  by  the 
very  commonest  men.  Their  good  taste  in  preferring 
their  own  durable  bark  material  to  the  usual  coarse 
German  stuffs  speaks  well  for  the  culture  of  the 
Mangbettus. 

Cattle,  goats,  and  pigs  are  scarce  in  this  country 


THE  MANGBETTU  COUNTRY  49 

on  account  of  the  numerous  tsetse  flies,  but  there  are 
a  great  many  dogs  and  fowls.  The  natives  obtain  most 
of  their  meat  by  hunting,  and  the  elephants,  buffaloes, 
hogs,  and  innumerable  varieties  of  antelopes  provide 
an  almost  inexhaustible  supply  of  food. 

In  former  times  the  Mangbettus  were  continually 
fighting  with  the  neighbouring  Monvu  tribes,  and  their 
booty  consisted  not  only  of  domestic  animals,  but 
also  of  the  dead  bodies  of  their  enemies  and  of  captured 
women  and  children,  with  which  they  satisfied  their 
cannibal  instincts.  Schweinfurth  alludes  to  their  lust 
for  human  flesh,  which  in  his  opinion  is  unsurpassed 
by  that  of  any  other  African  people.  The  strict  govern- 
ment of  the  Congo  State  has  put  down  this  horrible 
practice,  for  the  Belgians  punish  with  death  any  native 
convicted  of  cannibalism. 

At  the  present  day  hunting  is  the  principal  occupa- 
tion of  the  men,  and  the  women  do  all  the  work  of 
the  houses  and  fields.  The  women  of  the  upper  classes 
leave  the  hard  work  to  the  household  slaves,  and  busy 
themselves  with  cooking  and  with  their  personal  toilet, 
which  takes  up  a  great  deal  more  time  than  their 
scanty  attire  would  lead  one  to  suppose. 

The  Mangbettus  are  a  tall  race,  and  their  bodies 
are  well  proportioned,  and  for  the  most  part  slim 
and  muscular ;  it  is  only  in  old  age  or  in  the  case  of 
a  particularly  lazy  individual  that  they  become  stout. 
Their  skin  is  of  a  light  coffee  colour,  several  shades 
lighter  than  that  of  the  neighbouring  Asande  and 
Monvu  people.  Their  skulls  are  markedly  dolicho- 
cephalic, and  their  faces  are  distin^ished  from  those 
of  other  negro  races  by  their  long,  hooked  noses,  which 
in  many  cases,  give  them  a  Semitic  appearance.  They 
grow   heavier   beards   than   most   negroes   (illus.  16), 


50   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

regarding  them  as  a  sign  of  manliness,  and  sometimes 
they  wear  them  in  plaits. 

The  men's  dress  consists  of  a  wide  skirt  made  from 
bark.  The  latter  is  soaked  for  a  long  time  in  water, 
and  then  vigorously  hanmiered  with  a  wooden  mallet 
until  it  resembles  a  thick  and  very  supple  woven  material. 
The  separate  strips  are  joined  by  means  of  india-rubber, 
which  is  fairly  plentiful  in  the  forest,  instead  of  being 
sewn  as  is  the  custom  among  the  inhabitants  of  Uganda, 
who  wear  this  same  material.  On  their  heads  the 
Mangbettus  wear  very  pretty  square  hats  made  of 
finely  plaited  grass,  and  usually  dyed  red  and  black. 
Most  of  them  are  adorned  with  tufts  of  feathers,  the 
favourites  being  the  red  tail  feathers  of  the  grey  parrot 
or  the  plumage  of  the  guinea-fowl.  The  men  are  never 
tattooed ;  the  women,  on  the  other  hand,  tattoo  them- 
selves all  over.  The  men  despise  this  kind  of  adorn- 
ment, and  it  is  only  on  rare  occasions  that  they  rub 
into  their  skin  a  mixture  of  palm  oil  and  red  dye. 

The  women's  dress  consists  of  a  narrow,  dark-brown 
strip  of  the  same  bark  material,  covering  them  in  front, 
but  leaving  their  backs  bare,  and  fastened  round  the 
waist  with  a  thin  cord.  A  little  apron  made  of  dried 
banana  leaves  hangs  from  this  cord,  and  is  known  as 
the  legbe.  It  is  often  richly  ornamented,  and  decorated 
in  various  ways.  The  better  class  women  wear  cuffs 
of  spirally  wound  copper  wire,  as  well  as  bead  necklaces 
and  bracelets.  But  their  cliief  characteristic  is  their 
very  striking  coiffiu*e,  which  is  begun  in  infancy. 

The  curious  custom  prevails  among  the  Mangbettus 
of  lengthening  the  skull  by  means  of  a  bandage  firmly 
wound  round  the  head  of  an  infant  from  the  forehead 
upwards.  (Illus.  18.)  As  the  head  developes,  this 
bandage  is  loosened  from  time  to  time,  and  the  result 


THE  MANGBETTU  COUNTRY  51 

is  that  the  top  of  the  skull  acquires  a  conical  shape. 
It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  this  deformation  of  the 
skull  does  not  seem  in  any  way  to  affect  the  intellect, 
and  it  certainly  improves  the  physiognomy  by  raising 
the  upper  eye-lids,  so  that  the  Mangbettu  women 
appear  to  possess  larger  eyes  than  other  negresses. 
They  twist  their  hair  into  numerous  thin  plaits  which 
are  arranged  on  a  thin  wooden  erection  resembHng 
an  oyster-basket.  (Illus.  19,  20.)  This  hair-dressing 
naturally  occupies  a  great  many  hours,  and  is  conse- 
quently worn  for  several  weeks  at  a  time.  The  women 
push  various  articles  into  their  erection  of  hair  :  bleached 
monkey's  bones,  or  long  steel  needles  with  flattened 
points.  These  things  do  not  serve  the  purpose  of 
hairpins,  but  are  used  for  manicure,  since  the  women 
take  great  care  of  their  nails. 

The  Mangbettu  women,  at  any  rate  those  of  the 
upper  classes,  wash  themselves  several  times  a  day 
from  head  to  foot,  preferably  with  warm  water.  They 
do  not  understand  the  manufacture  of  soap,  so  that  a 
present  of  a  piece  of  soap  pleases  them  almost  more  than 
anything.  They  paint  their  bodies  with  a  stick  dipped 
in  the  black  juice  of  the  gardenia  fruit.  (Illus.  22. )  The 
hundred  and  fifty  wives  which  the  great  Mangbettu  chief 
Okondo  possesses,  do  nothing  all  day  but  beautify  them- 
selves and  cook  for  themselves  and  their  lord.  They  are 
not  free  from  the  folhes  of  fasliion,  and  it  is  considered 
particularly  "  chic  "  to  let  the  nails  grow  very  long, 
perhaps  in  order  to  show  that  all  the  hard  work  is 
left  to  the  slaves.  Nenzima,  a  sister  of  Munza's,  and 
a  wife  of  Niangara's,  who  Hved  at  Okondo's  court, 
had  most  unsightly  nails  several  inches  long. 

The  freedom  enjoyed  by  the  Mangbettu  women  is 
very  unusual  among  the  negro  races,  and  they  are 


62   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

far  from  being  mere  household  drudges  like  the  women 
of  all  the  Bantu  tribes,  including  the  Asandes.  On  the 
arrival  of  a  European  traveller  the  women  are  as  much 
to  the  fore  as  the  men ;  they  hurry  forward  to  greet 
him,  and  shake  hands  in  the  friendliest  manner,  taking 
their  part  in  the  conversation. 

The  present  chief  Okondo  always  consults  his  favourite 
wives  before  taking  any  important  step.  Illustration  28 
shows  a  portion  of  the  royal  family  in  full  dress.  Un- 
fortunately the  effect  of  their  primitive  good  taste  is 
somewhat  spoiled  by  an  admixture  of  European  rubbish. 
Nenzima  wears  a  collar  made  of  about  a  hundred  bullets, 
and  the  other  wives  display  thick  shawls,  each  of  which 
is  composed  of  a  great  many  ropes  of  blue  and  white 
beads,  and  belts  formed  by  joining  a  number  of  round, 
brass  sledge-bells  which  were  probably  brought  by  a 
trader  and  exchanged  for  ivory.  Of  the  wives,  the 
ughest  is  by  far  the  most  influential,  and  is  always  to 
be  seen  at  her  husband's  side. 

Okondo's  residence  occupies  a  site  about  two  hundred 
yards  square,  surrounded  by  a  high  stockade.  It 
comprises  a  hut  for  each  of  the  fifteen  favourite  wives, 
and  various  store-houses.  Each  of  the  head  wives 
has  a  hut  to  herself  within  the  stockade,  the  largest 
being  allotted  to  the  first  favourite.  Okondo  has  no 
special  hut  for  his  own  use,  but  invites  himself  as  the 
guest  of  one  or  other  of  his  wives.  The  rest  of  his 
wives,  numbering  about  a  hundred  and  fifty,  live  in 
huts  outside  the  stockade,  each  in  a  separate  hut 
occupied  by  herself  and  a  couple  of  slave  girls.  Nenzima 
Hves  amongst  them  in  a  large  house  (illus.  25),  and  close 
by  are  the  dignitaries  of  the  court,  most  of  whom  are 
Okondo's  nearest  male  relatives.    (Illus.  26.) 

The  Congo  State  government  allows  the  Mangbettu 


THE  MANGBETTU  COUNTRY  53 

ruler  to  retain  a  considerable  amount  of  power.  He 
possesses  a  lifeguard  armed  with  muzzle  loaders,  and 
himself  pronounces  judgment  on  all  criminals  excepting 
murderers. 

The  administration  of  justice  takes  up  the  greater 
part  of  Okondo's  time.  Every  morning,  from  eight 
to  twelve,  he  sits  under  an  awning  in  a  European 
deck-chair,  with  a  bottle  of  palm-wine  beside  him, 
and  his  favourite  wives  perched  behind  on  footstools, 
while  he  hstens  to  complaints  of  every  kind.  The 
accused  stands  at  a  respectful  distance  of  about  twenty 
paces,  and  defends  himself  in  a  fluent  torrent  of  words, 
accompanied  by  vehement  gesticulations,  occasionally 
making  use  of  small  sticks  in  order  to  elucidate  his 
meaning.  Behind  him  sit  the  plaintiff  and  witnesses, 
and  still  further  back,  the  native  audience.  Most  of 
the  cases  have  to  do  with  theft  or  conjugal  infidehty, 
which  are  punished  with  hard  labour,  the  criminals  being 
chained  together  in  gangs. 

As  an  emblem  of  authority  the  king  carries  a  large 
sickle-shaped  knife  known  as  a  trumbach.  Most  of 
these  knives  are  made  of  iron,  with  a  wooden  handle, 
but  the  king's  trumbach  is  of  brass,  with  an  ivory 
handle.  (Illus.  29.)  These  artistically  shaped  knives 
are  among  the  finest  examples  of  Mangbettu  smith's 
work,  and  call  for  high  praise  considering  how  rude 
are  the  tools  at  the  workmen's  disposal.  (Illus.  17, 
and  30-32.) 

The  lance  takes  the  first  place  among  their  weapons. 
(Illus.  72.)  There  are  six  distinct  varieties,  differing 
in  size  and  shape,  each  of  which  bears  a  special  name. 
The  heavier  lances  are  employed  for  hunting  big  game 
such  as  elephants  or  buffaloes,  and  are  thrusting 
weapons  which  never  leave  the  hunter's  hand.    The 


54    FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

lighter  varieties  are  used  as  javelins,  and  constitute  the 
chief  fighting  weapon  of  the  warriors  ;  in  battle  half  a 
dozen  or  so  are  held  in  the  left  hand,  and  thrown  rapidly 
one  after  the  other  with  the  right  hand.  (Illus.  27.) 
Meanwhile  the  combatants  cover  themselves  skilfully 
with  large,  square  shields,  made  of  a  Hght  kind  of  wood. 
These  shields  are  quite  smooth,  except  for  an  irregular 
boss  in  the  centre. 

Bows  and  arrows  are  little  used  in  warfare  by  the 
Mangbettus,  who  regard  them  as  the  weapons  of  the 
lower  classes.  There  are  a  great  many  different 
varieties  of  arrow-heads  (illus.  73),  each  of  which  is  a 
masterpiece  of  iron  work,  with  symmetrically  arranged 
spikes,  and  barbs.  The  heads  are  fixed  on  to  the  shafts 
by  means  of  bast,  and  close  to  the  junction  there  is 
always  a  knob  in  order  to  faciUtate  the  snapping  of  the 
shaft,  and  to  render  more  difficult  the  extraction  of  the 
head  from  the  wound.  The  bows  are  about  three  feet 
in  length,  with  strings  made  of  rotang. 

The  pottery,  wood-carving,  and  basket-work  of  the 
Mangbettus  far  surpasses  those  of  any  other  negro 
tribe.  (Illus.  29-71.)  The  ornamentation  of  the  oil 
and  water  flasks  shows  exceptional  talent  and  origin- 
aUty.  The  wood  used  for  carving  is  taken  from  huge 
Rubiacice  trees,  and  is  soft  and  smooth,  resembling 
our  poplar  wood.  The  trunks  of  these  trees  are  fifty 
feet  liigh  before  the  first  branch  is  reached,  and  their 
diameter  is  over  six  feet.  The  Mangbettus  make  their 
boats,  shields,  bowls,  and  stools  of  this  wood. 

Iron- work,  pottery,  and  wood-carving  are  exclusively 
the  men's  work,  but  the  women  give  evidence  of  their 
skill  in  aU  kinds  of  basket-work  (iUus.  74),  including  the 
skirts  or  legbes  which  hang  from  their  waists  by  a  cord, 
and  are  made  of  boiled  banana  leaves.    The  decoration 


THE  MANGBETTU  COUNTRY  55 

is  cut  out  from  the  blackened  leaves  of  the  same  plant, 
and  is  sewn  on  by  means  of  primitive  needles.  Of 
the  fifty  legbes  that  I  collected  there  are  no  two 
absolutely  aUke,  but  they  all  show  a  highly  developed 
sense  of  proportion,  and  wonderfully  good  taste.  (Illus. 
50-57.) 

The  men's  straw  hats  also  afford  scope  for  the  display 
of  individual  taste.  They  are  almost  all  square  in  shape, 
on  a  round  base,  but  in  their  ornamentation  wonder- 
fully artistic  patterns  are  employed  which  would  do 
credit  to  a  European  workman.  (Illus.  58-68.)  If  these 
examples  of  a  primitive  art  are  compared  with  those 
of  our  modem  straw  hat  industry,  it  becomes  evident 
that  in  some  things,  at  any  rate,  our  workmanship  is 
surpassed  by  that  of  the  negroes.  The  hats  are  always 
dyed  black,  white,  or  red,  these  being  the  only  available 
colours.  White  is  the  natural  colour  of  the  straw 
when  it  has  been  bleached  in  the  sun ;  red  is  obtained 
from  powdered  cam- wood,  and  black  from  the  juice 
of  the  gardenia  fruit. 

The  Mangbettus  are  past  masters  in  the  art  of  building, 
and  their  huts  are  the  prettiest,  and  at  the  same  time 
the  most  solid  of  all  the  negro  dwellings  that  I  have 
ever  seen.  The  huts  are  for  the  most  part  round, 
with  a  diameter  of  about  twenty  feet.  The  walls 
are  of  mud,  and  the  roofs  of  palm-leaves,  covered 
in  with  a  water-tight  layer  of  grass.  Each  hut  is 
surrounded  by  a  wooden  stockade,  the  interstices 
of  which  are  filled  up  with  mud.  The  floor  is  made 
of  mud,  well  beaten  in,  and  raised  about  a  foot  above 
the  ground  so  as  to  keep  out  the  damp.  The  furniture 
comprises  a  bed  at  one  side,  and  a  hearth  in  the  middle 
of  the  floor.  The  bed  rests  on  four  stout  posts  driven 
into  the  earth,  which  in  the  huts  of  the  chief's  wives 


56    FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

are  often  decorated  with  carving.  The  mattress  con- 
sists of  a  thick  layer  of  dried  leaves.  The  Mangbettu 
huts  are  kept  scrupulously  clean,  and  there  is  a  space 
of  about  a  foot  between  the  roof  and  the  wall  which 
admits  fresh  air  and  Hght,  and  allows  the  smoke  to 
escape. 

The  architectural  genius  of  the  Mangbettus  shows 
itself  particularly  in  the  building  of  the  large  halls 
known  as  bassos.  Okando's  bassa  is  a  large  rectangular 
building  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  long,  and  a 
hundred  and  sixty  feet  wide.  (Dlus.  74.)  The  floor  is 
forty  feet  high  in  the  middle,  and  slopes  down  to  a 
height  of  six  feet  at  each  side.  These  vast  halls  are 
used  as  sheltered  assembly  rooms  on  festal  occasions. 

It  is  one  of  the  traditions  of  the  Mangbettus  that 
each  of  their  kings  should  possess  a  bassa  of  his  own. 

They  are  a  light-hearted  race,  and  enjoy  a  greater 
number  of  festivities  than  any  other  negro  tribe. 
They  celebrate  every  occasion,  whether  of  joy  or 
sorrow,  with  dancing,  and  on  moonlight  nights  the 
noise  of  their  drums  and  trumpets  often  makes  sleep 
impossible. 

The  day  before  my  departure  Okondo  organised 
special  dancing  festivities  in  my  honour.  Led  by  the 
king  and  his  numerous  wives,  the  natives  executed 
a  kind  of  polonaise,  in  which  the  dancers  moved  in 
circles,  one  behind  the  other.  Men  and  women,  old 
and  young  aUke,  took  part  in  this  dance  for  hours  at 
a  stretch,  until  at  last  I  begged  the  king  to  let  me  see 
some  other  dances. 

He  accordingly  executed  a  wonderful  solo  dance,  which 
was  the  most  striking  that  I  have  ever  witnessed.  His 
wives,  a  hundred  and  fifty  in  number,  sat  on  their  stools  in 
a  wide  semi-circle.    They  bowed  backwards  and  forwards 


27.   Mangbatu  warriors. 


28.   Sultan  Okondo  with  his  four  chief  wives  in  gala  costume.     ^ 


29—71.  Examples  of  . 
29—33.  Sickles.    34—40.  Bottles.    41,  42.  Pottery.    43—46.  Carved  wood  stools.    47—49.  Wooden  dishes 


batu  handicraft. 

57.  Women's  Aprons.    58—68.  Men's  Straw  hats.     69.  Kettle-drum.    70.  Axe.    71.  Ivory  trumpet. 


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THE  MANGBETTU  COUNTRY  57 

from  their  waists,  at  the  same  time  rocking  their  heads 
from  one  shoulder  to  the  other,  and  waving  their  arms 
in  peculiar  serpentine  movements  in  time  to  the  music. 
They  sang  sweetly  to  the  accompaniment  of  kettle- 
drums, trumpets,  drums,  and  rattling  instruments, 
which  made  an  ear-splitting  din,  whilst  the  king  danced 
like  a  madman  in  the  centre  of  the  semi-circle.  He 
whirled  his  arms  and  swung  his  legs  after  the  cossack 
fashion,  now  waving  them  horizontally  above  the 
ground,  now  throwing  them  high  into  the  air.  He 
bounded  and  pranced  for  several  hours  without  a  rest, 
until  at  last  he  sank  exhausted  at  the  feet  of  one  of  his 
wives.  The  sun  had  set  before  the  crowd  dispersed, 
and  even  then  some  of  the  women  continued  dancing 
with  untiring  energy. 

It  is  surprising  to  find  that  these  cannibals,  who 
but  a  generation  ago  were  accustomed  to  kill  children, 
and  who  if  left  to  their  own  devices  would  probably 
not  hesitate  to  return  to  their  inhuman  practices, 
display  on  the  other  hand  kindly  qualities  such  as 
devotion  to  their  parents,  children,  and  wives,  and 
politeness  to  Europeans.  I  have  often  seen  the  Mang- 
bettu  women  stroking  their  children,  and  watching 
their  games  with  interest  and  amusement.  I  have 
even  seen  them  touch  their  babies'  hands  with  their 
lips,  which  is  all  the  more  noteworthy  because  kissing 
is  unknown  among  negroes. 

With  regard  to  their  religion,  I  can  only  say  that  they 
believe  in  the  existence  of  a  superior  and  invisible 
being,  whose  dwelling  is  supposed  to  be  in  the  sky. 
They  are  very  respectful  towards  their  dead,  whom 
they  bury  near  their  huts,  and  they  bring  offerings 
of  food  to  the  shades  of  the  departed. 

They  also  possess  legends  and  songs,   which  they 


58   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

sing  to  the  accompaniment  of  their  mandolines.  Some 
of  these  songs  contain  beautiful  thoughts,  and  the 
following  verse,  which  was  taken  down  at  the  dictation 
of  an  old  Mangbettu  bard,  may  serve  as  an  example 
of  the  poetry  of  these  primitive  people  : — 

"  After  I  have  passed  away. 
Do  not  lay  me  near  your  dwelling. 
You'll  forget  me  day  by  day. 
Lay  me  near  the  flowing  river, 
That  the  frogs  and  water  birds 
May  bewail  me  there  for  ever." 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

TOWARDS   THE   NILE 

My  visit  to  the  Mangbettu  tribe  was  the  most  interesting 
of  all  my  African  experiences.  I  felt  quite  at  home 
among  these  negroes,  who  in  spite  of  their  cannibal 
tendencies,  are  a  highly  cultivated  people,  and  scarcely 
a  day  passed  that  did  not  afford  some  interesting  episode. 
As  I  packed  up  my  ethnological  treasures,  and  left 
Okondo's  village  to  return  to  Niangara,  it  saddened 
me  to  think  that  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when 
European  civilisation  will  have  swept  away  the  last 
traces  of  romantic  originality  from  among  this  proud 
and  primitive  people. 

I  spent  several  days  in  Niangara  packing  my  Mang- 
bettu collection  in  readiness  for  the  twenty-five  days' 
journey  to  the  Nile.  As  soon  as  all  my  preparations 
were  complete,  I  set  off  with  fifteen  additional  bearers, 
and  fom*  days  later  I  reached  Dungu,  where  I  was 
cordially  welcomed  by  my  old  friend  the  "Chef  de 
zone  "  Bareau. 

Dungu  is  a  very  large  station.  Originally,  like  all  the 
stations  of  the  Uelle  district,  it  was  built  on  a  narrow 
site,  the  houses  being  crowded  together,  and  surrounded 
with  a  wall  and  moat  as  a  defence  against  the  attacks 
of  the  Asandes.  But  now  that  this  bitter  strife  is 
at  an  end,  and  peace  reigns,  the  inhabitants  are  no 
longer  restricted  to  such  a  narrow  space,  and  there 
are  a  great   many  houses   outside  the  fortifications. 

69 


60   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

Dungu  is  situated  in  the  middle  of  the  richest  elephant 
district  of  the  whole  Northern  Congo  colony,  and  is, 
consequently,  a  centre  of  attraction  for  numerous 
Greek  and  Arab  traders,  who  come  from  Khartoum 
and  Entebbe,  and  carry  on  a  brisk  trade  in  ivory. 
The  days  are  past  when  a  tusk  weighing  sixty  pounds 
could  be  bought  for  a  trumpet  or  a  hussar's  uniform, 
but  even  at  the  present  time  a  mule  is  eagerly  accepted 
in  exchange  for  one  large,  or  two  medium  sized  tusks. 

Seven  days'  march  along  an  excellent  road  brought 
me  to  Farad je.  The  country  is  thinly  populated,  but 
contains  many  varieties  of  big  game,  including  elands, 
saiga-,  grass-,  and  equine-antelopes,  elephants,  buffaloes, 
giraffes,  elks  (Taurotragus  derhianus  gigas),  and  the 
so-called  white  rhinoceros  {Rhinoceros  simus).  This 
animal's  skin  is  not  white,  but  possibly  when  first  seen 
by  European  travellers,  it  may  have  been  bathing  in  a 
chalky  pool,  and  consequently  have  appeared  white  in 
the  sunlight.  The  chief  point  of  distinction  between 
this  almost  extinct  animal  and  the  common  Rhinoceros 
bicornis  is  its  much  broader  mouth,  the  upper  lip  of 
which  is  not  prolonged  into  a  snout.  It  is,  moreover, 
larger,  and  has  longer  tusks  than  its  cousin.  Next 
to  the  elephant  it  is  the  largest  known  land  mammal, 
and  its  anterior  tusk  exceeds  five  feet  in  length.  Fifty 
years  ago  it  was  quite  common  in  South  Africa,  but 
English  sportsmen  and  Dutch  settlers  have  hunted  it 
until  it  is  practically  extinct.  It  is  now  to  be  found 
only  in  Lado  and  the  surrounding  districts,  and  in 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Faradje  it  is  still 
fairly  common.  The  game  laws  of  the  Anglo-Egyptian 
and  Belgian  governments  will,  I  hope,  safeguard  the 
existence  of  this  gigantic  relic  of  a  bygone  age. 

Abba  is  the  eastern  frontier  station  of  the  Belgian 


74.    Plaiting. 


'7  «-'i*^ 


'yjgs^pK 


75.   Okondo  and  his  wives  dancing. 


it 


TOWARDS  THE  NILE  61 

Uelle  district,  and  its  high  situation  affords  a  fine 
view  of  the  chain  of  hills  which  forms  the  watershed 
between  the  two  largest  river  systems  of  Africa,  and 
also  the  boundary  between  the  Anglo-Egyptian  and 
Belgian  territories. 

It  was  here  that  I  received  the  first  news  of  the  Morocco 
crisis.  I  was  on  the  point  of  setting  out  through 
British  territory  on  my  way  home  to  Germany,  and 
I  could  imagine  nothing  more  inconvenient  for  me 
than  an  Anglo-German  war.  I  heard  now  for  the 
first  time  of  the  stirring  events  in  Agadir,  and  I  must 
confess  that  I  dreaded  the  result  more  for  my  own 
sake  than  for  patriotic  reasons. 

I  heard  that  Inspector  Dove-Bey,  the  English 
Governor  of  Lado-Enclave,  residing  at  Yei,  was  a 
very  friendly  gentleman,  and  I  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  even  if  he  knew  of  my  connection  with  the  array, 
he  was  unlikely  to  make  me  a  prisoner  of  war  on  the 
spot.  So  I  made  up  my  mind  to  push  on  to  Yei  with 
all  possible  dispatch,  remaining  in  Abba  only  long 
enough  to  comply  with  the  customs  regulations,  and 
to  change  my  Belgian  money  into  English  currency. 

Scarcely  three  hours'  journey  from  Abba  I  came  to 
a  small  station  high  up  among  the  hills,  where  half  a 
dozen  soldiers  of  the  Soudanese  Constabulary  guard 
the  frontier. 

I  was  favourably  impressed  by  the  appearance  of 
these  troops,  whose  deportment,  equipment,  and 
uniform  leave  nothing  to  be  desired.  Instead  of  the 
blue  blouses  of  the  French  and  Belgian  colonial  troops, 
which  soon  become  unsightly,  they  wear  khaki- coloured 
sweaters  and  breeches,  laced  shoes  with  blue  puttees, 
and  grey  slouch  hats.  They  are  armed  with  modern 
double-barrel  Lee-Metford  rifles,  and  carry  their  cart- 


62        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

ridge  belts  slung  over  their  left  shoulders.  The  Sou- 
danese Constabulary  is  composed  of  former  "  regulars," 
and  the  latter  are  recruited  from  the  warHke  tribes 
of  the  Upper  Nile  :  the  Shilluks,  Dinkas,  etc. 

Yei,  the  first  Anglo-Egyptian  station,  came  into 
sight  on  the  fourth  day.  From  the  flag- staff  in 
front  of  the  Inspector's  residence  the  Union  Jack 
and  the  Egyptian  Crescent  fluttered  together,  as  a 
sign  of  the  confederate  government.  The  kaimakam 
Dove-Bey,  a  tall,  splendid-looking  Englishman  re- 
ceived me  with  the  words,  "  I  congratulate  you  on 
yoiu*  long  journey;  I  have  been  expecting  you  for 
some  time." 

In  the  person  of  Inspector  Dove-Bey  I  became 
acquainted  with  a  typical  English  Soudan  officer  :  a 
very  friendly  gentleman,  with  whom  I  spent  many 
pleasant  hours. 

The  Anglo-Egyptian  Soudan  possesses  a  miUtary 
government.  All  the  high  officials  are  officers  of  the 
British  army,  who  on  entering  the  Anglo-Egyptian 
contingent,  are  promoted  to  a  superior  rank,  and  are 
paid  by  the  Egyptian  government.  Only  the  lower 
ranks  from  that  of  a  captain  downwards  are  occupied 
by  Egyptians,  and  below  the  rank  of  a  Ueutenant 
there  are  negro  officers.  The  army  doctors  are  mostly 
Syrians,  and  the  head  physicians  Englishmen.  The 
relations  between  the  English,  Egyptian,  and  Syrian 
officers  are  invariably  those  of  superiors  towards 
inferiors,  for  there  is  no  intercourse  between  the  different 
nationahties  when  they  are  off  duty.  The  Egyptian 
officers  are  consequently  somewhat  embittered  against 
the  EngUshmen ;  but  the  position  of  the  latter  is  in 
no  way  endangered,  since  the  bulk  of  the  Soudanese 
privates  is  on  their  side.       These  admirable  soldiers 


o 
•a 

c 
o 

O 


79.   Mangbatu  kettle-drum  of  wood. 


80.   Wooded  plain  between  Dangu  and  Faradje. 


TOWARDS  THE  NILE  63 

regard  with  contempt  their  unreliable  and  incompetent 
Egjrptian  officers. 

The  English  officers  in  the  Soudan  receive  six 
months'  leave  at  the  close  of  every  year  of  service, 
and  as  they  are  obHged  to  make  use  of  it,  it  has 
a  very  beneficial  effect  on  their  health.  All  these 
advantages — the  long  and  frequent  leave,  higher  rank, 
and  excellent  pay,  render  the  Egyptian  service  very 
popular. 

Dove-Bey,  a  Captain  in  the  British  army,  here 
enjoys  the  rank  and  pay  of  an  Egyptian  Lieutenant- 
Colonel.  He  Uves  in  a  large  house,  furnished  in  a 
luxurious  style  unknown  in  the  French  and  Belgian 
colonies. 

I  spent  three  days  in  Yei,  as  the  next  Nile  steamer 
was  not  expected  to  reach  Redjaf  for  another  week  or 
two.  I  had  many  Uvely  arguments  with  my  amiable 
host  regarding  European  politics  in  general,  and  Anglo- 
German  relations  in  particular.  I  was  relieved  to 
find  that  the  crisis  was  over,  and  that  the  war  scare 
was  a  thing  of  the  past. 

Soon  after  crossing  the  Anglo-Egyptian  frontier, 
I  noticed  that  round  all  the  river  bridges  and  fords 
the  trees  had  been  cleared  away  for  a  distance  of 
several  hundred  yards.  My  supposition  that  this 
was  a  precautionary  measure  against  sleeping-sickness 
proved  to  be  correct.  A  Scotch  doctor  devised  this 
admirable  expedient,  which  has  also  been  adopted 
in  the  German  colonies.  This  doctor  was  in  charge 
of  the  large  sleeping-sickness  hospital  camp  in  Yei, 
with  beds  for  several  hundred  patients.  A  visit  con- 
vinced me  that  the  latter  are  very  well  cared  for,  and 
that,  unUke  those  in  the  French  and  Belgian  sleeping- 
sickness  hospitals,  they  have  no  wish  to  run  away. 


64   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

Kind  treatment  and  skilful  nursing  brought  about 
this  astonishing  result. 

Dove-Bey  overwhelmed  me  with  kind  attentions. 
He  was  himself  an  enthusiastic  sportsman,  and  when 
he  learned  that  I  had  not  yet  succeeded  in  shoot- 
ing an  elephant,  he  advised  me  to  try  my  luck 
on  the  road  to  Redjaf.  He  gave  me  his  own  trusted 
hunter,  the  soldier  Abderahman,  as  guide,  lent  me  his 
mule  in  place  of  the  one  that  had  to  be  sent  back  to 
Dungu,  and  even  entrusted  to  me  his  precious  double- 
barrelled  express  rifle,  as  being  more  effective  than 
my  own  Mauser.  I  was  thus  equipped  in  the  best 
possible  manner,  and  it  was  with  deep  feelings  of 
gratitude  for  all  his  kindness  that  I  took  leave  of  Dove- 
Bey.  During  the  two  days'  journey  to  the  small 
station  of  Loka  I  noticed  innumerable  fresh  elephant 
spoors,  but  the  very  long  grass,  which  entirely  con- 
cealed both  me  and  the  mule,  offered  a  serious  obstacle 
to  following  them  up.  However,  my  guide  Abderahman 
assured  me  that  beyond  Loka  the  country  was  more 
favourable  for  hunting,  and  that  there  were  plenty 
of  elephants  in  that  neighbourhood. 

Loka  is  the  next  station  to  Redjaf  on  the  Nile  road. 
It  is  small  and  prettily  situated,  but  since  the  annexa- 
tion of  the  Enclave  by  Britain,  it  has  lost  its  former 
importance.  The  most  attractive  feature  of  the  country 
round  Loka  is  the  range  of  granite  hills,  of  which  the 
Loka  Mountain  is  the  highest.     (Illus.  81.) 

As  I  approached  the  Nile,  I  found  the  country 
becoming  more  and  more  hilly,  and  I  traversed  forests 
of  bamboo,  about  thirty  feet  in  height,  which  were 
the  favourite  shelter  for  elephants  during  the  heat 
of  the  day.    ( Vide  coloured  Illus.). 

Two  days'   march  from  Loka   we  heard   elephants 


JZ    B 
O  E 

C    uJ 


TOWARDS  THE  NILE  65 

trumpeting  near  the  main  road.  I  knew  by  experi- 
ence that  it  is  only  young  bulls  travelling  in  a  herd 
that  trumpet,  and  not  the  old,  soHtary  elephants  that 
are  sought  after  by  hunters.  Nevertheless  I  made  up 
my  mind  to  follow  the  herd,  in  order  once  more  to  enjoy 
the  excitement  of  watching  these  gigantic  beasts.  The 
grass  was  very  long,  and  I  was  obliged  to  remain  in 
the  saddle  so  that  I  might  see  even  a  little  way  ahead. 
The  elephants  had  trampled  a  path  eight  or  nine  feet 
broad,  so  that  we  could  follow  them  without  difficulty 
through  the  long  grass.  Abderahman  was  leading  the 
way  when  all  at  once  he  stopped,  and  after  listening 
for  a  moment  he  whispered  to  me  that  there  were 
elephants  close  at  hand.  I  stood  up  in  my  stirrups, 
and  peered  in  every  direction,  but  could  see  nothing. 
About  a  hundred  yards  ahead  there  was  a  bamboo 
thicket  in  which  something  could  be  heard  rustling. 

I  dismounted  quickly,  and  seizing  my  heavy  rifle 
crept  along  behind  the  guide.  As  we  entered  the  thicket 
he  touched  my  arm,  and  pointed  to  a  grey  mass  scarcely 
fifteen  paces  away.  He  shook  his  head,  for  his  practised 
eye  had  distinguished  a  cow  elephant,  whilst  I  was  still 
vainly  endeavouring  to  make  out  which  was  its  head 
and  which  its  tail.  So  we  crept  back  the  way  we  had 
come,  and  followed  another  track  which  brought  us 
to  a  second  bamboo  thicket,  which  was  so  dense  that 
riding  was  impossible.  The  trail  led  up  and  down  hill, 
and  we  could  see  only  a  few  yards  ahead.  Abderah- 
man reconnoitred,  and  finally  pointed  out  a  clearance 
a  little  way  off,  towards  which  we  directed  our  steps. 

The  clearance  was  about  a  hundred  yards  long  by 
fifty  broad,  and  was  enclosed  on  all  sides  by  a  dense 
forest  of  bamboo,  in  which  we  could  hear  the  animals 
trampling    and    rustling    in    every    direction.    Every 


66        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

now  and  then  I  caught  sight  of  a  square  yard  of  greyish 
brown  hide,  a  huge  ear,  or  a  trunk.  But  the  tusks 
were  short  and  thin,  for  we  were  in  the  midst  of  a  herd 
of  cows  and  calves.  It  was  not  a  very  safe  position, 
for  some  of  the  animals  ran  in  our  direction,  and  might 
have  accidentally  trampled  on  us. 

Even  the  cold-blooded  Abderahman,  who  subse- 
quently gave  proof  of  unusual  courage  and  endurance, 
was  growing  uneasy,  and  advised  me  to  fire.  As  I 
did  not  wish  to  kill  either  a  cow  or  a  calf,  but  only  a 
large  bull,  I  fired  into  the  air. 

As  the  shot  reverberated  in  the  hills  there  was  a 
regular  stampede,  and  the  herd  crashed  through  the 
bamboos.  An  old  elephant  mother  who  was  scarcely 
ten  yards  away,  lifted  her  trunk  high  in  the  air,  spun 
round  on  her  hind  legs  hke  a  circus  horse,  and  trotted 
off.  Abderahman  and  I  returned  to  camp,  deeply 
disappointed  at  not  having  had  better  sport. 

The  following  morning,  accompanied  only  by  Abderah- 
man and  one  "  boy,"  I  set  out  before  sunrise  on  a  five 
hours'  march  to  a  village  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which 
I  hoped  to  find  some  old,  sohtary  bull  elephants.  Huge 
acacia  trees  grew  at  intervals  on  the  prairie,  which 
was  covered  with  comparatively  short  grass.  We 
reached  the  tiny  village  about  noon,  and  the  chief 
sent  out  some  of  his  men  in  search  of  elephants.  Two 
hours  later  one  of  them  returned  with  the  welcome 
news  that  he  had  seen  two  large  elephants  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  village,  and  that  their  tusks  were 
as  thick  as  a  man's  thigh. 

I  shouldered  my  rifle,  and  accompanied  only  by 
Abderahman,  followed  the  guide.  In  half  an  hour's 
time  we  had  reached  the  spot  where  the  native  had 
seen  the  elephants,  but  unfortunately  they  had  not 


TOWARDS  THE  NILE  67 

waited  for  us  to  arrive.  Abderahman  nosed  about 
like  a  blood-hound,  investigating  the  trampled  grass. 
Presently  he  pointed  out  one  of  the  tracks,  along  which 
we  crept  cautiously  in  single  file.  He  was  not  mistaken, 
for  in  a  few  minutes  we  came  upon  a  huge  bull  scarcely 
twenty  paces  away.  He  seemed  to  be  asleep,  for  he  did 
not  even  move  his  ears.  I  raised  my  rifle,  and  aimed 
at  the  base  of  his  trunk ;  but  my  heart  was  beating  so 
violently  that  the  sight  danced  about,  and  when  I 
fired  the  animal  did  not  fall  as  I  expected,  but 
flapped  his  big  ears,  lifted  his  trunk,  swung  round,  and 
trotted  off. 

It  was  the  largest  elephant  that  I  have  ever  seen, 
and  I  was  grievously  disappointed  at  losing  him.  It 
is,  however,  exceedingly  difficult  to  shoot  an  elephant 
from  the  front,  and  His  Royal  Highness  the  Crown 
Prince  had  a  similar  experience,  which  he  ably  describes 
in  his  hunting  diary. 

We  followed  the  elephant  until  sunset,  but  I  had 
Uttle  hope  of  seeing  him  again,  for  I  felt  sure  that  a 
bullet  arrested  by  the  big  bony  plates  of  his  skull 
would  do  him  but  Httle  harm.  The  equanimity  of 
my  black  guide  was  in  no  way  disturbed.  "  It  was 
Allah's  will,"  he  remarked  placidly.  "  Perhaps  you 
will  have  better  luck  to-morrow ! "  He  was  right 
as  it  turned  out,  though  it  might  easily  have  been 
otherwise. 

Early  the  next  morning  I  was  informed  that  two 
more  large  elephants  had  been  seen  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  village.  We  soon  found  their  spoor,  and 
tracked  them  through  the  bamboo  forest  and  open 
plains.  After  a  two  hours'  march  we  caught  sight  of 
two  huge  bulls,  about  a  hundred  yards  apart,  and 
about  the  same  distance  from  us.    It  was  impossible 


68   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

to  ascertain  from  behind  which  of  the  two  had  the 
better  tusks,  so  I  sent  Abderahman  on  in  front  to 
investigate. 

He  had  not  gone  far  when  he  pointed  to  the  elephant 
in  whose  tracks  I  had  been  following,  so  I  pushed 
on  to  the  left,  so  as  to  get  the  animal  broadside  on. 
Abderahman  was  carrying  my  Mauser  and  all  my 
cartridges,  and  I  had  in  ray  hand  the  aforementioned 
double-barrelled  rifle.  I  had  decided  to  fire  both 
barrels  of  the  latter,  and  then  to  take  my  Mauser 
from  my  companion,  who  was  meanwhile  to  reload 
the  elephant  rifle. 

The  elephant  suddenly  stood  stock  still  and  then 
turned  in  our  direction,  pricking  his  ears  and  raising  his 
trunk.  "  Now  or  never,"  I  said  to  myself,  and  slowly 
raising  the  sight,  I  fired  both  barrels  almost  simultane- 
ously at  a  point  immediately  above  the  left  shoulder. 
The  minutes  that  ensued  will  remain  fixed  in  my 
memory  for  ever.  The  elephant  charged  on  the  instant, 
without  a  moment's  pause.  My  rifle  was  empty,  and 
Abderahman  was  thirty  paces  away  between  me  and 
the  infuriated  elephant,  holding  all  my  cartridges. 
I  did  not  wait  for  him  to  give  me  my  Mauser,  but  took 
to  my  heels,  and  ran  like  a  hare. 

I  have  never  run  so  fast  in  my  life,  and  my  gymnastic 
teacher  would  have  admired  my  agility.  After  running 
about  thirty  yards  I  doubled,  and  concealed  myself 
behind  the  nearest  tree,  lying  flat  on  the  ground,  as 
I  have  seen  the  negroes  do.  But  while  I  was  still  run- 
ning I  had  heard  the  whistling  breathing  of  my  pursuer, 
and  I  reaUsed  that  he  was  mortally  wounded  in  the 
lungs.  Then  I  heard  a  shot,  and  something  crashed 
past  me  a  few  moments  later. 

There  was  dead  silence,  so  I  rose  from  the  ground 


r-.   '   ^ — : — ■■ ■ = \ 

H|^Hl^:^i^r  . 

'.,...'                 •  .w^     i.      -'•    ^*''-- 

^BW^ 

^^HH^^^^jw 

^^^3 

■"^^^^■"'            ^^^^HIk  ■''  * 

--:*i-  ^ 

.5^'  [-^MbP  '^       I'^'U 

"•^^'T^gsiyi^g-- .                             ''' 

81.   The  Loka  mountain  in  storm. 


^ 


82.   Rejaf  on  tiie  White  Nile. 


^ 

» 

-  -   X" 

'id 

e»    .-^^  f- 

X 

! 

L 

r 

^-^^ 

if 

^. 

^ 

^ 

I^WB 

TOWARDS  THE  NILE  69 

and  climbed  the  tree.  I  caught  sight  of  Abderahman 
standing  almost  on  the  same  spot  where  I  had  left  him 
at  the  critical  moment.  I  felt  a  little  ashamed  of  my 
cowardice  as  I  returned  to  his  side,  and  learned  what 
had  occurred. 

Abderahman  had  reaUzed  immediately  that  the  first 
elephant  was  mortally  wounded,  and  consequently 
paid  little  heed  to  his  impetuous  onslaught.  He 
turned  his  attention  to  the  second  uninjured  bull, 
which  likewise  charged  him.  He  allowed  the  beast 
to  come  within  three  yards  (the  distance  was  easily 
measured  afterwards  in  the  trampled  grass),  and 
then  shot  him  in  the  head  with  my  Mauser.  This 
gave  the  elephant  such  a  shock  that  he  turned  and  fled. 

Meanwhile  the  first  elephant  had  collapsed  on  to 
the  ground.  I  loaded  the  double-barrelled  gun,  and 
we  approached  cautiously  from  behind.  Abderahman 
pulled  his  tail,  and  as  he  did  not  stir,  we  knew  that 
he  was  dead.  I  shook  the  brave  Soudanese  warmly  by 
the  hand  ;  I  have  come  across  many  instances  of  fear- 
less courage,  but  nothing  to  equal  this  man's  daring, 
which  bordered  on  the  supernatural. 

It  was  a  fine  elephant,  even  for  this  neighbourhood, 
and  his  ivory  weighed  178  lbs.  The  news  spread 
rapidly,  and  within  a  few  hours  the  deserted  plain  was 
crowded  with  negroes  carrying  off  basketsful  of  the 
meat  to  their  distant  villages.  Only  the  skin  and 
bones  were  left  to  the  vultures. 

Three  days  later  I  accomplished  my  last  day's  march 
in  Africa.  Early  in  the  morning  we  caught  sight 
of  the  Redjaf  Mountain,  rose- tipped  by  the  rising 
sun :  a  steep,  rugged,  solitary  granite  peak,  several 
thousand  feet  high.  I  knew  that  beyond  it  flowed 
the  Nile. 


70        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

For  the  last  time  the  sun  blazed  down  upon  my 
battered  helmet,  which  was  held  together  only  by 
means  of  sticking-plaster  ;  for  the  last  time  the  bearers 
panted  and  groaned  under  the  weight  of  their  heavy 
loads.  But  to-day  no  one  complained,  and  they  pushed 
on  without  halting  every  few  minutes  as  was  their 
wont.  When  at  last  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, a  broad  valley  lay  stretched  before  us,  through 
which  flowed  old  Father  Nile  himself,  gleaming  in 
the  sunUght  Hke  a  silver  ribbon. 

My  Cameroon  and  Togo  "  boys  "  shouted  and  roared 
with  delight.  Now  at  last  the  hateful  journey  was 
at  an  end,  and  a  ship  would  soon  bear  them  back 
to  their  beloved  country.  This  was  the  chief  cause 
of  their  joy  ;  another  was  the  prospect  of  an  ox,  which 
I  had  promised  them  on  the  day  we  reached  the  Nile. 

Redjaf  is  a  small  station  lying  between  the  moimtain 
of  the  same  name  and  the  Nile.  (Illus.  82.)  It  com- 
prises a  Soudanese  village,  four  or  five  Government 
buildings,  and  half  a  dozen  factories  belonging  to 
Greek  and  Indian  traders.  Being  the  terminus  for 
the  steamer  service  of  the  White  Nile,  it  is  an  important 
centre  for  the  Congo  ivory  and  india-rubber  trade. 

A  fortnight  elapsed  before  the  arrival  of  the  Soudan 
Development  and  Exploration  Company's  steamer. 
At  first  I  was  fully  occupied  in  paying  off  my  caravan, 
and  in  writing  letters  and  reports,  but  finally  I  grew 
impatient  and  often  climbed  the  mountain  to  gaze 
northward  through  my  telescope.  At  length,  on  the 
17th  of  September,  a  black  cloud  of  smoke  heralded 
the  coming  of  the  steamer  "  Gordon  Pasha."  She  ap- 
peared to  be  crawUng  south  at  a  snail's  pace,  but  at 
last  she  was  moored  alongside,  and  my  "  boys  "  greeted 
her  with  three  hearty  cheers.    Our  baggage  was  stowed 


TOWARDS  THE  NILE 


71 


on  board  the  same  evening,  and  the  following  morning 
we  steamed  down- stream. 

My  exploratory  travels  were  now  at  an  end,  and 
the  rest  of  the  journey  was  a  mere  pleasure  trip.  In 
Khartoum,  von  Wiese  and  I  celebrated  our  happy 
meeting  after  a  separation  of  thirteen  months,  and 
in  a  short  time  we  enjoyed  the  happiest  moment  of 
the  whole  journey  :  that  of  our  safe  return  home  ! 


CHAPTERS  XIX  to  XXIV 

GERMAN  CONGO  AND  SOUTH 
CAMEROONS 

BY 

Dr  Arnold  Schultze 


CHAPTER  XIX 

FROM   STANLEYPOOL   TO   MOLUNDU 

On  the  banks  of  the  Stanleypool  near  Kinshassa, 
during  the  last  days  of  August  in  the  year  1910,  the 
members  of  our  party  displayed  a  feverish  activity. 
They  were  sorting  vast  mountains  of  luggage  piled 
on  the  Congo  steamer's  landing  stage,  and  beneath 
the  scanty  shade  of  a  gigantic  tree  (illus.  84),  which 
since  the  days  of  Stanley  had  seen  many  expeditions 
setting  out  for  the  interior.  It  took  two  hard  days' 
work  to  reduce  the  baggage  to  order,  and  to  stow 
the  greater  part  of  it  on  board  the  "  Valerie,"  which 
was  to  convey  most  of  the  members  of  the  expedition 
up  the  Congo  and  Ubangi  rivers. 

A  small  share  of  the  loads  was  reserved  for  the  botanist 
Dr  Mildbraed,  and  myself.  We  were  to  travel  in  the 
wake  of  the  rest  of  the  party  as  far  as  the  Ssanga  River, 
and  here  we  were  to  turn  aside  to  explore  that  part 
of  the  South  Cameroons  which  lies  between  this  river 
and  the  West  Coast. 

We  had  to  wait  at  least  ten  days  for  a  steamer  to 
the  Ssanga,  so  that  we  were  able  to  gratify  our  wish 
to  investigate  the  country  round  Brazzaville,  which 
seemed  to  offer  a  rich  field  for  zoological  and  botanical 
research.  Not  having  much  time  at  our  disposal, 
we  decided  to  make  one  of  the  stations  of  the  Congo 
railway  our  headquarters. 

The    Belgian    railway    officials,    Messieurs    Goubert 

76 


76   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

and  Schubb,  were  most  kind  in  helping  us  to  carry 
out  this  plan,  and  on  the  30th  of  August  we  went  by 
train  with  our  "  boys  "  and  the  necessary  camp  baggage 
to  Kimuenza,  a  station  twelve  miles  from  Kinshassa. 
From  the  train  we  caught  glimpses  of  the  luxuriant 
vegetation,  recognising  old  friends  from  the  Cameroons 
such  as  the  inevitable  umbrella  tree  of  West  Africa 
(Musanga  Smithii)  which  grows  here  in  great  profusion. 

Here  and  there  amid  the  dark  green  foliage  of 
the  tropical  forest,  were  purple  patches  of  flowering 
Comhretum,  warning  us  of  the  approaching  rainy 
season.  On  the  plains,  too,  the  fresh,  green  grass  was 
springing  up,  and  over  the  blue,  yellow,  and  white 
flowers  hovered  little  scarlet  butterflies,  the  first  heralds 
of  spring. 

We  pitched  our  tents  under  the  fruit  trees,  not  far 
from  the  little  corrugated  iron  house  belonging  to  the 
black  stationmaster.  It  was  an  ideal  spot  (illus.  85), 
on  a  wooded  slope  of  the  Lukaya  valley,  shaded  by 
low,  gnarled  trees,  many  of  them  in  full  bloom,  and 
surrounded  by  swarms  of  buzzing  bees.  The  silence 
was  broken  only  by  the  rumbhng  of  the  trains,  and 
the  frequent  blowing  of  their  whistles  in  which  the 
black  engine-drivers  indulged. 

Shaded  by  dense  forests,  the  little  Lukaya  River 
flows  in  its  deep  bed  on  the  other  side  of  the  railway. 
The  soil  is  sandy,  with  here  and  there  a  patch  of  clay, 
and  its  fertility  is  evidenced  by  the  luxuriance  of  the 
vegetation. 

On  the  very  first  day  of  our  arrival  in  Kimuenza, 
we  crossed  the  swapng  liana  bridge  which  spanned  the 
yellow  waters  of  the  Lukaya  immediately  opposite  our 
camp.  This  is  the  district  renowned  for  the  botanical 
collections  of  the  Jesuit  Fathers,  Gillet  and  Vanderyst. 


-•■-^^v^;  V' 

%v             Wa 

.*i-              ■    ... 

T 

.^^n^^ti^      -^^-^SejT^ 

84.   Among  the  baobab  trees  of  Kinchassa. 


85.    Our  camp  near  Kimuentsa. 


86.    Abandoned  mission  station  near  Kimuentsa. 


^ 

fc^- 

87.    Hymenocardia  steppe  near  Kimuentsa. 


88.   Steppe  near  Kimuentsa  with  Amaryliides  after  the  first  showers. 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU       77 

Here  the  beautiful  Bombax  lucayensis  displays  its 
gorgeous  blooms,  and  the  peculiar  dwarf  bamboos  vie 
with  graceful  dragon-trees  and  other  evergreens  in 
the  stateliness  of  their  stems.  A  tropical  tangle 
of  creepers  enveloped  all  the  other  plants,  whilst 
an  almost  impenetrable  undergrowth  of  pine- apples 
bore  witness  to  the  cultivation  of  the  former  mission- 
station. 

It  was  very  unfortunate  for  the  industrious  Jesuit 
Fathers  that  circumstances  obHged  them  to  abandon 
Kimuenza,  the  scene  of  many  years'  activity,  and 
begin  all  over  again  at  Kisantu. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  we  were  visited  by  natives, 
asking  for  medicine  to  ward  off  the  evil  effects  of 
mosquito  bites.  This  confirmed  the  evil  reputation 
borne  by  Kimuenza  in  Stanleypool,  where  it  was 
described  to  us  as  the  centre  of  a  district  infested  with 
sleeping-sickness.  The  natives  assured  us  that  whole 
villages  had  been  depopulated  by  this  disease,  and 
their  statements  were  confirmed  by  the  presence  of 
Glossina  palpalis  mosquitoes.  There  were  fortunately 
only  a  few  specimens  of  this  noxious  insect,  but  they 
pursued  with  us  a  subtle  persistence  unequalled  by 
any  other  variety  of  winged  blood-suckers.  Even  in 
our  tents,  pitched  on  the  plain,  we  were  not  free  from 
their  insidious  attacks,  thus  proving  that  the  tsetse 
fly  does  not  fear  the  sunshine. 

On  the  first  Sunday  of  our  camp  life  on  the  bank 
of  the  Lukaya,  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  abandoned  site  of 
the  Mission,  under  the  guidance  of  the  negro  station- 
master.  (Blus.  86.)  Part  of  the  brick  buildings  is  still  in 
good  preservation,  and  the  activity  of  the  Jesuit  Fathers 
is  evidenced  by  the  mango,  dragon-tree,  and  oil-palm 
avenues,  and  by  the  luxuriant  growth  of  several  foreign 


78        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

plants.  But  the  gloomy  silence  of  the  deserted  buildings 
proclaims  the  devastating  influence  of  the  noxious 
poison  for  which  no  antidote  has  as  yet  been  found. 
In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  station  there  is  a  village, 
similarly  deserted.  Three  or  four  natives  died  here 
every  day,  until  at  last  the  survivors  decided  to  forsake 
this  abode  of  death.  The  neglected  cemetery  of  the 
Fathers  completes  the  melancholy  picture ;  a  cast-iron 
cross  and  several  wooden  crosses,  most  of  them  lying 
on  the  ground,  are  overgrown  by  parched  grass  and 
scorched  creepers.  The  woods  surrounding  the  ceme- 
tery seem  to  be  the  breeding-place  of  these  death- 
dealing  flies,  which  gave  evidence  of  their  presence 
by  pursuing  us  persistently.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that 
there  is  here  no  sign  of  water  (the  Mission  Fathers 
were  obHged  to  fetch  their  water  supply  from  a 
distance),  and  this  proves  conclusively  that  tsetse 
flies  are  not  confined  to  streams  with  overhanging 
trees. 

A  dull,  introspective-looking  native  lives  here  with 
his  family  in  a  hut  which  is  carefully  shut  up  during 
the  day,  and  cares  for  the  remains  of  the  Mission 
plantations.  I  was  not  able  to  ascertain  whether  he, 
too,  was  infected  with  the  disease,  but  as  a  rule  this 
spot  is  shunned  by  the  natives. 

It  must  have  been  most  disheartening  for  the  mission- 
aries to  see  their  people,  Europeans  and  negroes  alike, 
dying  one  by  one  of  an  epidemic  whose  nature  was 
at  that  time  not  understood,  and  which  has  entirely 
depopulated  vast  regions  of  Africa. 

Nothing  short  of  the  most  severe  measures,  prohibiting 
any  migration  of  the  natives,  would  suffice,  according 
to  present  day  scientific  knowledge,  to  check  this 
fearful  scourge.    The  tsetse  flies  abound  everywhere, 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU       79 

and  consequently  a  single  infected  man  suffices  to 
contaminate  the  whole  district. 

Mildbraed  had  not  been  able  to  accompany  me  on 
this  memorable  expedition,  as  he  was  suffering  from 
violent  pains  in  his  limbs,  which  made  him  almost 
incapable  of  moving.  He  got  no  better,  and  was  there- 
fore reluctantly  compelled  to  seek  admittance  in  the 
Leopoldville  Hospital,  and  it  was  with  a  heavy  heart 
that  I  watched  the  departure  of  the  train  that  conveyed 
him,  on  the  6th  of  September,  to  the  Belgian  Congo 
metropolis. 

I  was  now  alone  with  my  "  boys  "  in  our  big  camp, 
and  I  sought  distraction  from  my  anxiety  in  a  redoubled 
activity  in  collecting  specimens.  As  far  as  possible 
I  proceeded  with  Mildbraed's  interrupted  botanical 
work. 

Although  at  first  the  results  of  our  collecting  were 
most  promising,  many  of  the  zoological  specimens 
being  particularly  rare,  yet  our  work  was  considerably 
hindered  by  the  prolonged  absence  of  the  overdue 
rainy  season.  It  was  everywhere  far  too  dry,  both 
in  the  forest  and  in  the  plains,  and  although  the  sky 
had  been  overcast  for  some  time,  the  parched  earth 
was  still  crjdng  out  for  rain.  The  news  that  Mildbraed 
was  suffering  from  rheumatic  fever  did  not  tend  to 
raise  my  spirits.  Our  plans  would  have  to  be  consider- 
ably modified,  and  the  only  redeeming  feature  of  the 
case  lay  in  the  fact  that  Mildbraed  had  fallen  ill  at 
the  very  beginning  of  our  travels,  in  a  place  where  he 
could  have  the  best  possible  care  in  his  painful  malady, 
Dr  Broden  of  Leopoldville  being  the  most  experienced 
physician  in  the  Belgian  colony. 

My  ethnological  studies  in  the  neighbourhood  of  our 
camp  came  to  a  premature  end,  which  although  most 


80        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

distressing,  was  not  wholly  unexpected.  The  influx 
of  workmen  for  the  construction  of  the  Matadi  and 
Stanleypool  railway  resulted  in  a  considerable  inter- 
mingling of  the  numerous  tribes  of  the  lower  Congo, 
and  consequently  the  greater  part  of  their  racial  char- 
acteristics had  been  lost.  However,  I  visited  the 
nearest  native  village,  hoping  to  gain  some  valuable 
information  regarding  the  habits  of  the  aborigines. 
My  hopes  were  somewhat  dashed  when  I  caught  sight 
of  the  plank  doors  of  the  otherwise  typical  native  huts, 
but  when  the  peaceful  hum  of  a  Singer's  sewing  machine 
fell  upon  my  ear,  I  knew  that  my  ethnological  studies 
in  Kimuenza  were  at  an  end ;  there  was  assuredly 
nothing  more  to  be  done  in  this  district ! 

Towards  the  middle  of  September  the  rain  at  length 
materialised.  On  the  13th  blue-grey  clouds  raced 
across  the  sky,  and  loud  claps  of  thunder  were  audible 
though  there  was  no  lightning  to  be  seen.  The  first 
showers  were  but  slight,  and  made  little  impression 
on  the  baked  ground.  But  the  spell  being  once  broken, 
the  storms  succeeded  one  another  at  shorter  and  shorter 
intervals  with  ever-increasing  violence,  while  the  rain 
fell  in  torrents.  After  every  shower  fresh  flowers 
appeared  in  the  midst  of  the  grass,  and  in  forest  and 
plain  alike  the  insects  took  on  a  new  lease  of  life. 

But  the  light  green  spring  foliage  of  the  hymeno- 
cardiae  (illus.  87),  the  strychnine  trees,  and  the 
anonae  had  many  a  battle  to  fight  with  the  prairie 
fires  which  still  raged  through  the  dry  grass,  crack- 
ling over  the  arid  slopes,  and  sending  up  thick 
clouds  of  smoke,  whilst  the  burning  leaves  were 
scattered  in  every  direction.  These  fires  are  lighted 
by  the  lazy  natives,  as  the  easiest  means  of  removing 
the  trees  that  they  have  cut  down,  or  else  in  order 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU       81 

to  destroy  the  cover  which  might  conceal  the  few 
remaining  head  of  game.  In  any  case  it  is  very 
destructive  for  agriculture,  and  the  flames  consume 
much  valuable  material  which  cannot  be  replaced. 

The  black  native  of  Stanleypool  is  in  this  respect  no 
worse  than  other  negroes,  but  apart  from  his  natural 
indolence,  he  embodies,  in  common  with  all  mixed 
African  races,  a  very  unprepossessing  type  of  Bantu. 
He  invariably  mistakes  kind  treatment  for  weakness, 
and  responds  with  insolence  to  any  friendly  advances. 

By  the  end  of  the  month  so  much  rain  had  fallen 
that  the  Lukaya  had  risen  visibly,  and  the  ground  was 
soaked.  All  day  the  gorgeous  blue  gladiolus  and  the 
delicate  ground  orchid  displayed  their  beauty,  whilst 
every  evening  large  amaryllides  opened  their  snow- 
white,  purple- striped  cups,  which  shone  Hke  stars 
on  the  prairie  from  sundown  till  dawn,  filling  the  air 
with  fragrance,  and  attracting  moths  of  every  kind. 
(lUus.  88.) 

Unfortunately  the  approach  of  the  rainy  season 
gave  rise  to  another,  much  less  pleasant,  phenomenon : 
namely,  a  plague  of  flies  such  as  I  have  never  before 
experienced  in  Africa.  Every  evening  they  made 
their  way  through  the  smallest  aperture  into  the  hot 
atmosphere  of  my  tent,  making  it  almost  impossible 
to  do  any  work.  As  there  is  no  stagnant  water  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Kimuenza,  the  prevalence  of 
these  bloodthirsty  creatures  can  only  be  accounted 
for  by  the  great  number  of  pine-apple  bushes.  The 
raindrops  accumulate  at  the  base  of  their  leaves,  and 
form  an  ideal  breeding-ground  for  flies.  Needless  to 
say,  the  tsetse  fly  likewise  appeared  in  ever-increasing 
numbers. 

The    rapid    development    of    the    flowers    promised 


82   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

to  compensate  Mildbraed  for  his  period  of  enforced 
idleness.  I  visited  him  in  hospital,  and  learned  that 
the  tedium  of  his  seclusion  was  considerably  lightened 
by  the  presence  of  a  Danish  officer  in  the  Belgian 
service :  Commandant  Willemoes  d'Obry,  the  official 
geographer  of  the  Congo  colony.  This  gentleman 
suppUed  my  comrade  with  Uterature,  and  was  very 
kind  in  pajdng  him  frequent  visits.  But  it  is  very 
trying,  especially  in  the  tropics,  for  a  naturaUst  to  be 
confined  to  bed  just  as  all  nature  is  awakening  to  new 
life,  and  Mildbraed  awaited  with  impatience  the  day 
of  his  discharge  from  hospital.  I  could  not  visit  him 
as  often  as  I  wished,  because  the  journey  from  Kimuenza 
to  Leopoldville  and  back  could  not  be  accompHshed 
in  the  day,  owing  to  the  inconvenience  of  the  train 
connections ;  it  was,  moreover,  a  most  disagreeable 
experience.  The  single  first-class  fare  from  Kimuenza 
to  Bonshassa  is  fifty-eight  francs,  and  as  the  fares  for 
other  journeys  are  in  proportion,  practically  no  one 
but  officers  and  officials  travel  first- class.  My  only 
other  resource  was  to  travel  with  the  natives,  and 
share  with  them  the  filthy  seats  of  the  open  carriages, 
in  which  the  smoke  from  the  engine  soon  obHterates 
any  difference  of  colouring,  and  in  which  I  was  obliged 
to  accustom  my  nose  to  the  various  African  odours. 

I  went  for  a  long  walk  one  day  to  the  highest  hill 
in  the  neighbourhood,  which  afforded  a  grand  view 
as  far  as  Leopoldville  and  Brazzaville,  embracing 
almost  the  whole  of  Stanleypool,  and  I  made  up  my 
mind  that  when  I  next  visited  Mildbraed,  I  would  go 
on  foot.  I  had  no  cause  to  regret  my  decision,  for 
as  I  walked  along  the  railway  I  reaHsed  how  much  of 
the  beauty  of  nature  one  loses  in  travelKng  by  train. 

Walking  over  the  railway  sleepers  was  more  tiring 


89.    Landscape  in  the  Sanga  delta. 


90.   Steamer  Commandant  Lamy  before  Wesso. 


91.    Flooded  village  on  the  Djah. 


92.    Village  of  Wesso  on  the  Sanga. 


93.   Confluence  of  the  Sanga  and  Djah. 


94.    Station  of  Molundu  at  low  water. 


I 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU       83 

than  I  had  anticipated,  especially  near  Dolo,  where 
the  sand  was  almost  on  a  level  with  the  rails.  The 
wide  stretches  of  sand  covered  with  short  grass,  vividly- 
recalled  the  downs  on  the  shores  of  the  North  Sea, 
and  the  only  thing  wanting  to  complete  the  illusion 
was  the  heather.  My  walk  ended  in  the  Avenue 
Souverain,  leading  to  the  hill  on  which  the  hospital 
stands.  As  I  cUmbed  this  hill  in  the  scorching  sun, 
my  legs  began  to  ache,  and  I  decided  to  return  by 
train. 

On  the  8th  of  October  Mildbraed  at  last  returned 
to  camp,  and  during  the  few  days  that  remained  before 
the  departure  of  our  steamer,  we  were  able  to  take  walks 
together  in  the  neighbourhood.  Mildbraed  instructed 
me  in  his  method  of  collecting  botanical  specimens 
by  means  of  field  glasses  and  a  rifle.  When  he  caught 
sight  of  a  branch  laden  with  flowers  or  fruit  at  the  top 
of  a  tall  tree,  provided  it  was  not  too  closely  bound 
to  the  other  branches  by  creepers,  he  shot  it  down 
with  an  expanding  bullet.  But  apart  from  the  very 
awkward  position,  the  branch  he  aimed  at  was  small, 
and  many  cartridges  were  wasted  before  the  coveted 
specimen  fell  from  its  dizzy  height.  Consequently 
in  order  to  make  a  collection  of  about  two  hundred 
different  trees,  which  could  not  have  been  obtained 
in  any  other  manner,  we  employed  more  than  four 
thousand  cartridges.  In  the  case  of  the  beautiful 
flowering  lianas,  the  difficulties  were  even  greater, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  invoke  the  aid  of  a  skilled 
native  cHmber.  I  feel  sure  that  to  the  uninitiated  at 
home  the  complete  collection  conveyed  but  a  faint 
conception  of  the  patient  toil  entailed  in  obtaining 
each  individual  specimen. 

We  struck  our  tents  on  the  morning  of  the  17th  of 


84   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

October,  and  our  Cameroon  boys  were  greatly  excited 
at  the  prospect  of  returning  home,  for  they  seemed 
to  imagine  that  we  had  nothing  more  pressing  to  do 
than  to  travel  straight  to  their  native  land. 

It  was  evening  when  at  last  we  rested  our  weary 
limbs  in  the  "  Hotel  CosmopoUte  "  at  Kinshassa  ;  we 
soon  discovered  that  here,  too,  the  mosquitoes  were  in 
high  spirits  owing  to  the  commencing  rainy  season, 
and  they  did  their  best  to  make  our  Uves  a  burden. 

A  thunderstorm  broke  over  Kinshassa  during  the 
night  of  the  19th  of  October,  and  offered  a  striking 
example  of  the  violence  of  which  an  African  tornado 
is  capable.  The  fury  of  the  storm  was  such  that  the 
heavy  Adansonia  fruits  were  torn  from  their  branches, 
and  hurled  with  the  noise  of  a  cannonade  on  to  the 
galvanised  iron  roofs  of  the  houses. 

The  following  day  it  was  imusually  sultry  instead 
of  being  cooler  as  we  had  anticipated.  This  was  speci- 
ally trying  for  me,  as  I  had  important  business 
to  transact  in  the  French  capital,  Brazzaville,  where 
I  was  anxious  to  pay  my  respects  to  the  Governor- 
General  Merlin,  who  was  on  the  eve  of  returning  home. 

Stanleypool  being  the  focus  of  the  whole  Congo 
basin,  everything  is  on  a  grand  scale,  and  I  was  not 
surprised  to  find  that  the  fare  for  the  short  journey 
from  Kinshassa  to  Brazzaville  was  twenty  francs. 
The  distances  in  Brazzaville  are  so  great  that  in  order 
to  transact  my  business  I  was  obhged  to  be  on  my 
feet  for  three  hours.  This  was  a  doubtful  pleasure, 
as  the  streets  were  new  and  shadeless,  and  I  was  dressed 
in  a  tight  white  suit  with  a  stiff  collar,  which  soon 
succumbed  to  a  temperature  of  86^  F.  Fortunately 
I  was  able  to  tidy  myself  at  an  EngUsh  factory, 
and  could  accept  with  a  clear  conscience  the  Governor- 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU       85 

General's  invitation  to  an  official  breakfast.  I  fully- 
appreciated  the  kindly  hospitality  of  the  officials  and 
ladies  of  Brazzaville.  I  realized  at  the  same  time 
that  on  quitting  the  Governor's  palace  I  was  taking 
leave  for  many  months  of  all  the  comforts  of  European 
civilization. 

Early  the  following  morning  we  conveyed  our  baggage 
to  Brazzaville,  but  it  took  us  the  whole  day  to  comply 
with  the  troublesome  custom-house  regulations,  and  it 
was  late  in  the  evening  before  the  last  load  was  on 
board  the  "  Commandant  Lamy,"  a  paddle  steamer  of 
150  tons  burden  which  was  to  convey  us  to  the  Ssanga. 

We  felt  that  we  had  earned  a  good  night's  rest,  but 
we  were  doomed  to  disappointment,  for  our  first  night 
on  board  proved  a  typical  African  experience.  Our 
cabins  were  said  to  be  mosquito-proof,  the  windows 
and  doors  being  covered  with  gauze,  so  that  we  had 
packed  our  mosquito  nets  in  the  baggage  sealed  by  the 
custom-house  official.  We  soon  regretted  our  over- 
confidence,  for  in  spite  of  all  our  efforts  the  windows 
refused  to  shut,  and  the  gnats  of  the  Stanleypool 
came  through  the  inch-wide  aperture  in  swarms,  so 
that  we  did  not  close  our  eyes  all  night  and  were 
lamentably  bitten. 

Fortunately  the  fears  that  we  entertained  during  our 
first  night  on  board  were  not  justified,  and  the  "  Com- 
mandant Lamy"  proved  to  be  a  very  comfortable 
vessel.  The  captain,  a  broad-shouldered  Breton,  was 
at  first  somewhat  reserved,  but  he  soon  thawed  and 
became  a  genial  traveUing  companion. 

When  the  steamer  left  her  mooring  on  the  morning 
of  the  23rd  of  October,  nearly  all  the  cabins  were 
occupied.  The  passengers  were,  for  the  most  part, 
employes    of   French   Concession   Companies,  but  we 


86    FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

also  made  the  acquaintance  of  a  Captain  Schmoll, 
the  new  chief  of  the  French  station,  N'goila,  and  his 
lieutenant,  both  of  whom  had  lived  for  many  years 
in  the  tropics. 

The  first  part  of  the  voyage  gave  us  a  good  idea 
of  the  vast  extent  of  the  Stanleypool.  It  was  noon 
by  the  time  we  had  left  behind  this  wide  expansion 
of  the  Congo  with  its  wooded  islands.  The  banks 
of  the  river  are  precipitous,  and  consist  of  sandstone 
cliffs  about  five  hundred  feet  high,  partly  brown,  and 
partly  snow-white  in  colour.  Francis  Pocock,  Stanley's 
trusted  companion  on  his  first  Congo  voyage,  compared 
them  to  the  chalk  cliffs  of  England.  Several  recent 
landslips  showed  that  the  banks  are  not  very 
solid. 

We  now  entered  the  so-called  "  chenal "  of  the 
Congo,  where  the  dark-brown  waters  of  the  river  are 
compressed  into  a  narrow  and  consequently  deep  bed, 
before  widening  out  into  the  Stanleypool,  just  above 
the  last  falls.  The  voyage  was  very  attractive,  the 
ever-changing  hilly  scenery  forming  a  picturesque 
background  to  the  landscape. 

The  steamer  made  her  way  steadily  up-stream,  from 
sunrise  till  evening,  halting  for  the  night  only  when 
the  approaching  darkness  rendered  further  progress 
impossible.  A  village  is  usually  chosen  as  a  landing 
place,  and  the  whole  of  the  black  crew,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  engineers,  is  sent  ashore,  so  that  they  may 
not  be  exposed  to  the  temptation  of  steaUng,  which 
would  otherwise  prove  too  strong  for  them.  In  spite 
of  an  assumed  piety,  the  Bangalas  are  a  dishonest 
tribe,  but  they  bear  a  high  reputation  as  river  pilots 
and  sailors. 

On  the  third  day  of  the  voyage  our  steam  steering 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU        87 

gear  was  out  of  order,  and  we  stopped  for  repairs  at 
Berghe-Ste.  Marie. 

The  Kassai  is  one  of  the  few  tributaries  of  the 
great  African  river.  Its  mouth  might  be  com- 
pared to  that  of  the  Mosel  near  Coblentz,  but  it  is  of 
course  much  larger  than  the  Rhine.  On  the  left 
bank  of  the  Kassai,  near  its  mouth,  is  the  important 
town  of  Kwamouth,  and  on  the  right  bank  the  Belgian 
mission  station  of  Berghe-Ste.  Marie.  The  population 
of  the  latter  has  fallen  owing  to  the  ravages  of  the 
sleeping-sickness,  although  it  is  still  marked  in  heavy 
type  on  the  map  as  if  it  were  a  large  city.  It  often 
happens  that  towns  that  have  played  an  important 
part  in  the  history  of  Africa  have  their  names  in  large 
print  on  the  map,  even  after  they  have  ceased  to 
exist. 

Our  repairs  did  not  take  long,  for  the  captain,  like 
most  commanders  of  the  Congo  steamers,  was  a  certifi- 
cated engineer.  Soon  after  midday  we  were  once  more 
forced  to  heave  to,  this  time  on  account  of  a  violent 
storm  which  came  up  from  the  South  with  great 
rapidity.  We  hugged  the  shore  until  we  came  to  a 
suitable  place  where  we  could  make  fast  and  await 
better  weather.  This  precaution  was  not  unnecessary, 
for  owing  to  her  shallow  draught  the  steamer  might 
easily  have  been  capsized  by  a  violent  gust  of  wind. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  important  duties  of  a  Congo 
navigator  to  guard  against  surprise  by  one  of  these 
tornadoes,  which  come  up  with  great  rapidity. 

So  far  we  had  encountered  very  few  other  vessels, 
one  of  them  being  a  large  Congo  steamer  carrying  no 
passengers,  but  serving  exclusively  for  the  transport 
of  building  materials  for  the  new  Upper  Congo  railway. 
Early  the  following  day  we  passed  M'ponya,  and  left 


88    FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

the  "  chenal "  behind  us  ;  the  latter  is  certainly  the 
most  picturesque  part  of  the  Congo,  and  we  were 
never  tired  of  watching  the  changing  landscapes  flitting 
by  on  each  bank. 

The  river  here  attains  a  width  of  about  three  miles, 
but  immediately  below  the  large  Belgian  station  of 
Bolobo  we  entered  a  labyrinth  of  islands  which  rendered 
any  further  estimation  of  its  width  impossible.  The 
Congo  breaks  up  into  a  network  of  canals,  which 
can  be  distinguished  only  by  experienced  river  pilots. 
At  noon  on  the  27th  of  October  we  passed  the  mouth 
of  the  Alima,  which  to  us  seemed  exactly  like  the 
numerous  deep,  silent  canals  on  both  sides  of  the 
water-way. 

The  vegetation  is  peculiar  and  quite  tropical  in 
character,  the  greater  part  of  the  islands  being  covered 
with  dense,  well-nigh  impenetrable  jungle.  The  grey- 
green  parinarium  bushes,  and  the  monotonous  alcorneae 
with  their  dull  poplar-Uke  leaves  bear  a  certain  resem- 
blance to  European  shrubs ;  but  the  dark  copal  trees 
and  the  tough  rotang  hanas  enveloping  everything 
with  their  whip-like  strands  and  graceful  fronds  as 
they  crawl  along  the  ground  or  climb  to  the  highest 
tree-tops,  soon  dispel  the  illusion. 

Among  this  maze  of  islands  there  are  occasional 
wide,  green  patches  formed  of  deceptive,  floating 
weeds,  set  in  motion  by  the  waves  of  passing 
steamers.  These  patches  give  rise  to  the  floating 
papyrus  islands  which  may  be  seen  throughout  the 
Lower  Congo,  together  with  the  bright  green  clumps  of 
Pistia  stratiotes. 

There  was  hardly  a  sign  of  life  in  all  this  district, 
but  we  were  told  that  during  the  dry  season  wild 
animals    are    plentiful.      In    a    small    village    below 


95.    Dasanga  women  in  canoe. 


^:  ^ms^  !Si 

^^.-     ^ 

P'-l"  ^ 

tc  1 

"^^^  -   1 

'^r^'#c^«*^'^'^* 

•  \    • 

^^A?..     ^^ 

?.-'^    1 

fir 

i>.i 

RC'^'iSHI 

ST, 

.1           >) 

BBiBps! 

k'i 

k           1 

"F 

[trti 

y  1/ 

_j«^H 

iJL 

jl^^^^,^.^-^. 

■^'#4    - 

96.    Basanga  women  with  leg-rings. 


o 
o 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU       89 

Mokutimpoko,  where  we  spent  the  night  of  the  27th 
of  October,  we  were  shown  a  large  mound  composed 
of  elephant  skulls,  a  dumb  but  eloquent  protest  against 
the  brutal  extermination  of  these  animals  by  man. 

The  traveller's  attention  is  drawn  to  the  colour  of 
the  Congo,  which  is  deeper  than  that  of  any  other 
African  river.  The  peculiar  brown  tint  of  the  water 
which  may  be  observed  at  the  mouth  of  this  huge 
river,  and  even  for  several  hundred  miles  out  to  sea, 
is  caused  by  vegetable  decomposition  in  the  primeval 
forests  at  the  origin  of  the  numerous  branches  which 
unite  to  form  the  Congo.  Here  and  there  it  happens 
that  for  some  distance  the  water  is  thick  and  resembles 
"  cafe  au  lait  "  owing  to  earthy  ingredients  brought  by 
some  tributary.  Soon,  however,  the  mud  is  filtered  off 
by  the  floating  islands  or  by  the  stony  bed,  and  the  water 
becomes  quite  clear,  of  a  dark  tea  colour :  red-brown 
where  it  is  shallow,  dark  brown  where  it  is  deeper, 
and  almost  black  in  the  deepest  parts.  The  foam 
thrown  up  by  the  steamer's  paddle-wheels  was  of  a 
golden  topaz  tint. 

The  tea-coloured  water  of  the  rivers  and  streams 
of  the  Congo  basin  does  not  seem  to  suit  the  mosquitoes, 
and  since  leaving  Brazzaville  we  had  not  once  suffered 
from  their  attacks.  The  evil  tsetse  flies,  however,  are 
not  apparently  affected  by  this  peculiarity  of  the 
water ;  they  are  indestructible  and  are  found  almost 
everywhere. 

We  landed  three  of  our  passengers  at  Kunda, 
above  the  mouth  of  the  AKma,  and  a  little  further 
on  we  came  to  the  delta  at  the  mouths  of  the  Likuala- 
Mossaka,  Ssanga,  and  Green  Likuala  rivers.  The 
next  morning  we  reached  Bonga,  and  here  some  of  the 
French  passengers   were  able  to  give  vent  to  their 


90   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

long  suppressed  hunting  ardour.  They  stalked  rhino- 
ceroses and  sand-pipers,  and  corroborated  the  excellent 
descriptions  of  their  fellow-countryman,  Daudet. 

It  was  pouring  with  rain  as  the  "Commandant  Lamy  " 
turned  aside  mto  one  of  the  river  channels  which  alter 
the  direction  of  the  current  according  as  to  whether 
the  water  is  higher  in  the  Likuala-Mossaka  or  in  the 
Ssanga. 

We  were  not  yet  accustomed  to  the  many  surprises 
which  lay  in  store  for  us  as  we  steamed  up  the  Ssanga. 
First  of  all,  towards  noon,  we  passed  through  what 
may  best  be  described  as  a  primeval  forest  region, 
in  which  the  copal  appeared  to  be  the  commonest  of 
the  huge  trees.  Then  followed  rotang  jungles  of 
unparalleled  luxuriance,  alternating  with  dark  green 
grass  islands.  But  what  astonished  us  most  was  the 
profusion  of  Borassus  palms,  for  these  trees  prefer  as 
a  rule  the  dry  soil  of  the  prairies.  Yet  here  they 
were  growing  in  the  midst  of  the  forest,  or  standing 
in  isolated  clumps  in  the  damp  fields,  and  imparting 
a  peculiar  charm  to  the  landscape.  Mildbraed  and  I 
were  accustomed  to  see  these  trees  waving  their  fan- 
like branches  in  the  desert,  and  it  amazed  us  to  find 
them  here  under  such  entirely  different  conditions, 
and  at  the  same  time  in  so  flourishing  a  state. 

During  the  dry  season  these  prairies  must  form  an 
ideal  hunting  ground ;  at  present  there  was  only  a 
soHtary  buffalo  to  be  seen,  and  after  eyeing  the  steamer 
from  a  safe  distance,  he  made  off  through  the  long 
grass  at  a  heavy  gallop. 

The  scenery  on  the  banks  of  the  Ssanga  was  very 
beautiful,  and  Mildbraed  and  I  watched  with  silent 
enjoyment  this  incomparable  picture  unrolling  itself 
before  us.      Towards   evening  the  vast  prairies  with 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU       91 

their  ever-changing  scenes  were  so  singularly  picturesque 
that  I  can  scarcely  find  words  to  describe  them. 
The  grandest  natural  park  that  I  have  ever  seen 
occupied  both  banks  of  the  Ssanga,  about  ten  miles 
wide  on  the  left  bank,  and  about  half  this  width  on 
the  right  bank.     (Illus.  89.) 

We  came  to  a  standstill  in  the  gathering  dusk,  but 
no  dry  spot  could  be  found  for  the  negroes  to  encamp, 
so  that  they  were  obliged  to  spend  the  night  on  board. 

The  following  morning  Mildbraed  stood  leaning  over 
the  side,  gazing  longingly  through  his  telescope  at  the 
flowers  growing  on  the  banks.  Suddenly  at  a  bend  in 
the  river,  the  steamer  seemed  to  anticipate  his  secret 
wishes,  for  the  stearing  gear  once  more  broke  down, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  make  our  way  through  the 
clinging  weeds  to  the  bank.  Whilst  the  crew  scurried 
and  scrambled  and  ran  excitedly  hither  and  thither, 
Mildbraed  and  his  specially  trained  "  boys "  tore 
down  some  of  the  flowering  branches  which  overhung 
the  deck  and  threatened  to  push  overboard  some  of 
the  piled  up  wood  fuel. 

Mildbraed's  face  was  wreathed  in  smiles  as  he  secured 
four  new  specimens  and  put  them  in  his  press.  Our 
position  might,  however,  have  been  exceedingly  un- 
pleasant, supposing  the  bank  had  been  composed  of 
rocks  instead  of  soft  swampy  ground. 

A  few  days'  travelling  made  us  reahse  how  rapidly 
one  zone  succeeds  another,  each  with  its  different 
weather  season.  On  leaving  Stanleypool,  we  had  come 
in  for  the  first  violent  tornado  of  the  rainy  season, 
and  we  were  now  in  the  middle  of  a  wet  zone.  A 
few  days  more  would,  however,  bring  us  to  the  beginning 
of  a  region  showing  the  first  signs  of  approaching 
summer. 


92        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

The  weather  was  hot  and  sultry,  and  on  our  last 
day  in  the  Southern  Hemisphere  the  steamer  met  one 
thunderstorm  after  another,  the  northern  horizon 
being  charged  with  black  and  threatening  clouds. 
It  rained  all  night  without  ceasing,  and  early  on  the 
30th  of  October  we  crossed  the  Equator,  and  entered 
the  region  of  the  true  primeval  forest. 

During  the  afternoon  the  sun  at  length  broke  through 
the  clouds,  and  made  up  for  his  long  holiday  by  an 
unbearably  sultry  heat.  In  the  clear  atmosphere  we 
could  appreciate  the  imposing  grandeur  and  aspect  of 
the  forest.  The  great  trees  were  a  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  and  more  in  height,  and  stood  a  foot  deep  in 
water.  We  meant  to  take  a  canoe  and  go  in  search 
of  specimens,  but  when  we  discovered  that  the  whole 
forest  lay  under  water  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
we  reluctantly  gave  up  the  attempt. 

We  saw  more  and  more  native  huts  belonging  to 
the  cannibal  Mi-Ssangas.  The  appearance  of  a  steamer 
seemed  to  be  an  important  event  for  these  children  of 
Nature,  for  young  and  old  lined  up  on  the  banks,  staring 
at  us  with  open  mouths.  The  women  wore  glittering 
spiral  anklets  made  of  iron  or  brass,  whilst  their  hair 
was  concealed  by  turban-like  cloths.  (lUus.  96,  107.) 
The  men  wore  their  hair,  and  sometimes  even  their 
beards,  in  plaits,  which  gave  them  a  very  droll 
appearance. 

The  animal  world,  too,  is  more  plentifully  represented 
on  this  side  of  the  Equator.  Small  communities  of 
monkeys,  comprising  three  or  four  different  varieties, 
might  be  seen  gambolling  in  the  branches  of  the  gigantic 
trees  that  lined  the  banks.  On  the  approach  of  the 
steamer  they  sought  safety  in  flight,  leaping  from 
tree  to  tree,  or  disappearing  in  the  jungle.    Crocodiles 


CO 

c 


3 


CI4 


e 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU       93 

were  sunning  themselves  on  dead  trunks  that  protruded 
from  the  water,  and  a  snow-white  silver  heron  sat 
motionless  on  a  branch,  staring  into  the  water. 
A  black  rhinoceros-bird  flapped  noisily  across  the 
vessel's  path,  flocks  of  grey  parrots  chattered  and 
screamed,  whilst  between  the  trees  a  large  butterfly, 
the  splendid  Papilio  zalmoxis  (illus.  122),  displayed 
his  gorgeous  sky-blue  wings,  which  were  reflected  in 
the  mirror  of  the  water. 

But  Nature  showed  us  these  cheerful  pictures  only 
during  the  brief  intervals  between  the  storms,  and 
our  first  night  in  the  Northern  Hemisphere  was  the 
reverse  of  pleasant.  Every  possible  circumstance 
combined  to  increase  the  humidity  of  the  atmosphere. 
There  was  no  wind,  and  the  rain  poured  down  at  inter- 
vals in  perpendicular  streams.  In  addition  the  whole 
neighbourhood  was  under  water,  and  the  atmosphere 
was  saturated  with  moisture.  Everything  felt  damp, 
and  although  it  was  not  particularly  hot,  the  skin 
was  covered  with  beads  of  perspiration.  Under  such 
conditions  it  was  impossible  to  dry  anything  that  had 
become  wet,  and  we  had  great  difficulty  in  preserving 
our  collections  from  mould. 

We  reached  the  wood  station  Likunda  on  the  last 
day  of  October,  and  remained  here  longer  than  usual 
in  order  to  allow  of  some  necessary  repairs  to  the 
boiler.  I  met  with  a  trifling  adventure,  which  might 
have  had  serious  consequences. 

The  sun  having  succeeded  in  breaking  through  the 
clouds,  I  went  ashore,  accompanied  by  one  of  my 
Cameroon  "  boys  "  who,  owing  to  his  corpulence,  had 
earned  the  nickname  of  "  Matabum "  (meaning 
"  fatty  ").  We  followed  a  winding  path  through  the 
forest.    On  the  way  back  I  went  a  few  yards  away 


94        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

from  the  path,  when  suddenly  the  ground  gave  way 
under  my  feet,  and  I  fell  headlong.  I  heard  my  "  boy  " 
calUng  "  Massa,  Massa "  in  a  terrified  voice,  and 
realized  to  my  horror  that  I  had  fallen  into  one  of 
the  skilfully  made  pits  which  the  Mi-Ssangas  dig 
in  order  to  trap  wild  beasts.  At  first  I  saw  no  way 
of  extricating  myself,  for  the  pit  was  quite  ten  feet 
deep,  and  wider  at  the  bottom  than  at  the  top, 
so  that  when  I  tried  to  scramble  up  the  sides  I  merely 
succeeded  in  dragging  down  the  earth  on  the  top  of  me. 
But  my  companion  threw  himself  flat  on  the  ground, 
and  pulled  me  up  with  the  help  of  a  long  stick,  although 
he  was  so  frightened  that  the  tears  streamed  down 
his  fat  cheeks.  I  myself  felt  somewhat  uncomfortable 
at  the  thought  of  what  might  have  happened  supposing 
I  had  been  alone,  and  I  inwardly  congratulated  myself 
on  my  foresight  in  never  going  anywhere  in  the  African 
bush  without  a  companion. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  1st  of  November  we 
reached  the  large  station  of  Likilemba,  as  it  is 
named  on  the  map,  or  Ikerimba,  as  it  is  called  by 
the  Mi-Ssangas.  It  is  built  on  a  flat  mound  of  red, 
sandy  mud,  about  twenty-five  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  Two  Frenchmen,  dressed  all  in  white, 
stood  on  the  landing-stage,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the 
steamer. 

The  land  has  been  reclaimed  for  some  distance  from 
the  forest,  apparently  for  some  considerable  time.  The 
piety  of  the  Mi-Ssangas  towards  their  dead  is  a  touching 
trait  which  they  share  with  many  other  cannibal  tribes. 
Mildbraed  and  I  walked  through  the  cemetery  of  Liki- 
lemba, and  noticed  the  carefully  arranged  flat  graves 
in  round  niches  cut  out  of  the  herbaceous  underwood. 
On  each  grave  were   piled  the  favourite  possessions 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU       95 

of  the  deceased :  specimens  of  native  handicraft, 
such  as  skilfully  plaited  baskets,  and  also  European 
articles,  such  as  a  petroleum  lamp,  empty  jam  pots, 
etc.  The  women's  graves  were  adorned  with  their 
heavy  anklets,  resembling  the  spiral  springs  of  a  spring 
mattress.  Much  care  had  been  bestowed  on  the  chiefs' 
graves,  which  were  covered  with  large  mounds  several 
yards  high.  Here  and  there  seats  were  provided  for 
those  visiting  the  cemetery. 

The  Europeans  in  Likilemba  showed  us  an  interesting 
photograph  of  a  gorilla  that  had  been  killed  in  the 
neighbourhood  a  few  days  before ;  and  by  the  side 
of  which  the  tall  Mi-Ssanga  natives  looked  like 
dwarfs. 

On  the  2nd  of  November  we  reached  Wesso,  a  large 
French  customs  station  at  the  mouth  of  the  Djah 
(N'goko),  which  was  the  destination  of  our  steamer. 
(lUus.  90.)  Our  captain  kindly  permitted  us  to  remain 
on  board  until  the  arrival  of  the  vessel  which  was  to 
convey  us  to  Molundu. 

Wesso  (illus.  92),  owes  its  importance  to  its  favour- 
able situation ;  it  lies  at  the  junction  of  two  large 
navigable  rivers  (illus.  93),  it  is  well  above  the  high 
water  level  of  the  rainy  season,  and  it  has  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood productive,  agricultural  land,  from  which 
it  is  not,  like  so  many  villages  on  the  Ssanga  and 
the  Djah,  cut  off  by  swamps.  (Illus.  91.)  Industry 
reigns  in  these  high-lying,  fertile  plains ;  big-boned 
Mi-Ssanga  women,  dripping  with  oil,  clatter  along 
in  their  bracelets  and  anklets,  carrying  on  their  backs 
heavy  baskets  loaded  with  bananas  or  evil-smelling 
manioc  roots.  Opposite  Wesso,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Ssanga,  stretches  a  vast,  inhospitable  swamp, 
impassable   during   the   rainy   season   excepting   with 


96        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

the  help  of  a  canoe,  or  by  skilful  leaps  from  one  tree- 
root  to  another.    (Illus.  97.) 

It  was  in  just  such  a  spot,  at  the  edge  of  a 
lagoon,  that  I  secured  a  specimen  of  the  largest  of 
all  African  butterflies,  the  gigantic  Papilio  anti- 
machics.  We  had  already  noticed  this  prince  of 
butterflies  from  the  steamer,  below  Likilemba ;  it 
flew  like  a  bird  over  the  huts  of  a  village,  and  its 
outstretched  wings  measiu-ed  nearly  a  foot  from  one 
tip  to  the  other.  Here,  on  the  edge  of  the  lagoon, 
I  had  the  unexpected  good  fortune  to  net  a  speci- 
men of  this  coveted  butterfly  as  it  alighted  to 
quench  its  thirst.  The  enthusiastic  zoologist  will 
sympathise  with  my  elation  as  I  took  the  gigantic 
insect  out  of  my  net.  The  first  known  specimen 
was  for  a  hundred  years  the  only  one  of  its  kind, 
and  the  greatest  treasure  of  an  EngHsh  collection, 
until  sixty  years  ago  a  second  example  was  brought  to 
Europe.  I  had,  moreover,  the  satisfaction  of  observing 
other  specimens  at  the  same  spot,  and  taking  photo- 
graphs of  them,  which  are  quite  unique.     (Illus.  98,  99.) 

Meanwhile  the  flat-bottomed  screw-steamer  "  de 
Brazza,"  which  was  to  convey  to  us  Molundu,  had 
arrived  from  the  French  station  N'goila  on  the  Djah. 
Its  grand  designation,  "  Vapeur  a  deux  heHces  "  in 
the  time-table  of  the  French  "  Messageries  fluviales  " 
had  given  us  quite  a  wrong  impression,  and  we  were 
somewhat  disappointed  when  we  went  on  board  and 
were  introduced  to  the  young  Danish  captain,  to  find 
that  it  was  by  no  means  in  its  first  youth,  and  that 
almost  all  the  conveniences  of  the  "  Commandant 
Lamy  "  were  wanting. 

Early  on  the  7th  of  November  the  "  de  Brazza  " 
started  up-stream,  heavily  laden  with  men  and  baggage. 


o 


FROM  STANLEYPOOL  TO  MOLUNDU        97 

and  towing  two  ponderous  lighters,  one  on  each  side. 
We  abandoned  ourselves  to  various  pessimistic  cal- 
culations as  to  the  speed  and  duration  of  the  voyage. 
Opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Djah  the  current  was  so 
powerful  that  not  only  did  the  vessel  not  advance, 
but  she  was  actually  driven  back  until  the  captain 
decided  to  hug  the  bank,  where  the  straining  engine 
was  able  to  make  headway. 

There  were  no  cabins  on  the  "  de  Brazza,"  excepting 
the  captain's,  and  the  only  protection  against  the 
weather  was  an  awning  on  the  upper  deck.  Consid- 
ering our  snail's  pace,  and  the  fact  that  all  meteorical 
tables  notwithstanding,  the  rain  continued  to  fall 
in  torrents,  we  did  not  anticipate  a  very  agreeable 
voyage.  There  were  eight  European  passengers,  and 
we  accommodated  ourselves  as  best  we  could  on  the 
upper  deck,  which  was  only  about  thirty  yards  square, 
though  it  had  to  serve  as  sitting-room,  dining-room, 
and  bedroom.  Part  of  it  was  occupied  by  luggage, 
and  at  night  considerable  ingenuity  was  required  in 
order  to  make  up  our  beds  under  that  part  of  the  roof 
which  was  still  water-tight. 

Our  conversation  was  both  interesting  and  varied, 
for  most  of  us  had  seen  a  good  deal  of  the  world.  There 
was  a  tall,  weather-beaten  looking  gentleman  who 
had  been  an  officer  in  Algiers,  and  was  now  going 
out  as  india-rubber  agent  for  a  French  company.  I 
had  already  met  him  in  Brazzaville,  where  he  was 
diligently  studying  a  small  book  which  contained 
instructions  for  distinguishing  the  india-rubber  plant 
from  the  cocoa  and  other  nut  trees.  Another  man 
had  hunted  at  Fontainebleau  in  his  youth,  so  he 
played  merry  fanfares  on  a  hunting  horn,  awakening 
the  echoes  of  the  green  forest  wall  on  the  bank. 


98        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

Two  of  the  passengers  got  off  at  the  French  station 
N'gali,  which  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  splendid 
india-rubber  plantations.  This  gave  the  rest  of  us  a 
little  more  breathing  space  and  room  to  move  about. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  November  we  started 
very  early  in  order  to  reach  Molundu  the  same  evening. 
In  the  afternoon  we  caught  sight  of  the  low  leaf  huts 
of  the  first  representatives  of  the  Pygmies  (illus.  100), 
with  whom  we  were  to  have  so  much  to  do  during 
the  ensuing  weeks. 

It  was  dark  by  the  time  our  siren  announced  our 
arrival  to  the  inhabitants  of  Molundu.  (Illus.  94). 
Standing  on  the  half-submerged  landing-stage  we 
saw  the  government  physician,  Dr  Hauboldt,  who 
had  been  our  fellow-passenger  on  the  voyage  from 
Hamburg  to  Stanleypool. 


CHAPTER  XX 

RESEARCH  WORK  IN  THE  NEIGHBOURHOOD  OF 
MOLUNDU 

A  ROOMY  "  guest-house  "  was  placed  at  our  disposal 
for  the  time  that  we  proposed  to  spend  in  Molundu. 
This  house  was  made  almost  entirely  of  the  gigantic 
fronds  of  the  raphia  palm,  and  was  the  first  of  the  new 
buildings  to  be  completed. 

Molimdu  is  a  station  built  on  a  slightly  undulating 
plain,  on  which  the  trees  have  been  cut  down  and 
replaced  by  banana  and  cassada  plantations,  which 
provide  work  for  the  numerous  convicts  brought 
from  all  parts  of  the  colony.  In  the  clearances  a 
few  isolated  forest  giants  have  been  left  standing, 
also  some  india-rubber  trees,  Kickxia  elastica.  Young 
oil  palms  have  been  planted  by  the  road-side,  for 
these  trees  do  not  grow  wild  in  any  part  of  the  south- 
east Cameroons  forest.  The  Mi-Ssangas  wilhngly  pay 
ten  shillings  per  litre  for  the  highly  prized  palm-oil, 
so  that  a  good-sized  plantation  of  oil  palms  would 
be  a  rich  source  of  profit  to  the  inhabitants  of  the 
station. 

At  the  time  of  our  visit  the  village  was  flooded, 
and  the  adjoining  native  village  was  cut  off  from  the 
station  by  a  deep  stream,  so  that  all  communication 
had  to  be  carried  on  in  canoes. 

We  proceeded  by  water  to  visit  the  various  European 
settlers,  the  oldest  of  whom  was  a  gentleman  called 

99 


100      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

de  Cuvry,  the  founder  of  the  South  Cameroon  Company. 
In  the  early  days  of  European  colonization  he  had 
lived  amongst  the  cannibal  tribes  of  this  country, 
and  could  tell  us  all  about  the  ancient  customs  of 
the  Mi-Ssangas,  the  N'dzimus,  the  Kunabembes,  and 
the  Bangandus,  customs  that  were  formerly  practised 
openly  before  Europeans,  but  nowadays  only  in  secret. 

Travelling  by  canoe  we  found  the  most  agreeable 
means  of  progression  that  had  as  yet  fallen  to  our 
lot  in  Africa.  The  long,  slender  craft,  propelled  by 
six  to  eight  sturdy  Mi-Ssanga  rowers,  shot  like  an  arrow 
over  the  water,  and  we  were  astonished  at  the  graceful 
precision  and  endurance  of  these  natives,  who  worked 
standing.  The  women  were  particularly  skilful,  and 
the  manipulation  of  the  long  oars  showed  off  their 
supple  brown  bodies  to  perfection.  (Elus.  95.)  We 
passed  the  bridge,  resting  on  piles  thirty  feet  high, 
which  spans  the  little  Lupi  River,  as  it  flows  into  the 
Djah,  immediately  below  the  Bumba.  The  river  was 
up  to  the  planks  of  the  bridge,  and  the  European 
cemetery  close  by  lay  under  water,  so  that  only  the 
tops  of  the  tombstones  were  visible. 

So  far  there  seemed  Httle  prospect  of  any  improve- 
ment in  the  weather,  and  the  available  meteorological 
tables  proved  that  observations  extending  over  many 
years  are  required  in  order  to  give  results  that  are  in 
any  way  rehable.  During  November  very  Httle  rain 
is  supposed  to  fall,  and  yet  here  we  were  getting  drenched 
every  time  we  set  out  to  collect  specimens,  and  the 
rain-gauge  indicated  over  eight  inches  for  the  month. 
In  December,  although  the  month  was  ushered  in 
by  thunderstorms,  we  seemed  to  be  passing  through 
a  transition  period,  and  it  was  not  until  the  end  of 
January  that  the  dry  season  set  in  for  good. 


102.   Interior  of  a  Basanga  house. 


103.   Village  street  of  Molunda  with  fowl-house. 


— [- 

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\    - 

r  ^'  \ 

^} 

\^ 

1    ^ 

t  v^ 

'vC^H 

ik 

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W^.^:S«B 

BIK^T^iV/^ 

If 

'ji.^i'^ 

^■■^^^IHI^'' 

104.   Dasanga  women  cooking. 


105.    Dasanga  women  at  their  toilet. 


RESEARCH  WORK  IN  MOLUNDU         101 

These  irregularities  in  the  weather  were  not,  however, 
so  surprising  as  those  that  we  had  experienced  near 
Tibundi,  including  numerous  thunderstorms.  They 
manifested  themselves  generally  in  the  early  morning, 
when  the  thermometer  was  comparatively  low,  and 
a  thick  fog  enveloped  the  landscape.  Towards  noon 
the  fog  dispersed,  but  the  sky  remained  overcast, 
and  the  sun  seldom  succeeded  in  breaking  through 
the  clouds. 

In  the  early  morning  of  the  8th  of  December  one 
of  these  curious  "  fog  thunderstorms "  overtook  us 
at  Molundu.  The  previous  day  the  atmosphere  had 
become  more  and  more  foggy,  and  though  there  were 
no  typical  thunderclouds  to  be  seen,  yet  the  entire 
sky  was  overcast,  and  thunder  could  be  heard  muttering 
in  the  distance. 

Towards  sunset  the  clouds  dispersed,  but  the  electrical 
tension  had  not  been  wholly  discharged.  Between 
eight  and  nine  o'clock  the  night  was  bright  and  starry, 
but  the  air  was  still  oppressively  sultry.  There  was 
not  a  cloud  in  the  sky,  for  the  stars  on  the  horizon 
were  plainly  visible,  whilst  those  overhead  shone 
with  unusual  brilliance,  as  on  a  starry  winter's  night 
at  home.  Towards  morning  the  temperature  dropped 
so  that  I  was  able  to  slip  into  my  pyjamas,  and  at 
last  it  became  so  cold  that  I  even  drew  up  my  blanket. 
I  was  not  mistaken  in  supposing  that  it  was  foggy 
out-of-doors,  and  if  the  windows  had  been  open  the 
mist  would  certainly  have  penetrated  into  my  bedroom. 
Instead  of  growing  lighter  the  darkness  increased, 
and  amid  this  strange  semi-twilight  the  thunderstorm 
broke.  The  fog  did  not  disperse,  and  there  was  no 
sign  of  a  thunder- cloud.  I  can  only  explain  this 
phenomenon  by  supposing  that  we  were  in  the  very 


102      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

centre  of  the  thunder-cloud,  though  the  low  altitude 
of  Molundu  renders  this  improbable. 

Owing  to  the  wet  weather  the  country  around 
Molundu  was  almost  impassable,  and  the  field  of 
our  labours  was  closely  restricted.  Half  an  hour's 
walk  in  an  easterly  direction  brought  us  to  a  swamp, 
and  the  road  leading  from  the  station  to  a  large  factory 
on  the  Bumba,  which  would  have  been  the  most 
favourable  spot  for  collecting,  was  blocked  close  to 
the  station  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  second  bridge 
over  the  Lupi  was  up  to  the  raiUngs  in  water. 

This  prolonged  inundation  occasioned  a  marked 
dearth  of  flowers  as  well  as  of  animals,  and  our  botanist 
was  bitterly  disappointed.  Nevertheless,  everything 
was  unmistakably  awakening  to  new  life.  Many  of  the 
trees  were  in  full  flower,  amongst  them  the  beautiful 
"  African  maple  "  with  its  charming  purple  and  white 
striped  blossoms.  The  renewed  activity  of  insect  life 
also  bore  witness  to  the  fact  that  the  quiescent 
period  was  at  an  end.  Iridescentbeetles  crawled 
about  the  bare  branches  of  fallen  trees,  sparkling 
like  emeralds  in  the  sunlight.  Clouds  of  little  brown- 
black  butterfhes,  Lihyihea  lahdaca,  frequented  the 
banks  of  the  rivers  and  other  damp  places,  alighting 
even  on  oiu*  persons,  or  forming  dark  patches  on  the 
ground.  Another  butterfly,  the  white  Cymothoe  caenis^ 
presented  a  spectacle  similar  to  that  of  the  locust 
swarms  on  the  plains.  A  flight  composed  entirely 
of  male  butterflies  passed  over  the  station  during 
the  morning  of  the  12th  of  November  coming  from 
the  East,  and  disappearing  over  the  river  into  the 
forest.  It  resembled  a  snowstorm,  and  coming  into 
view  at  about  nine  o'clock,  continued  until  noon,  the 
last  straggler  passing  at  about  one  o'clock. 


RESEARCH  WORK  IN  MOLUNDU         103 

Still  more  impressive  was  another  insect  invasion 
which  occurred  one  night,  and  which  is  included 
among  the  experiences  of  anyone  who  has  been  for 
any  length  of  time  in  the  African  tropics.  On  the 
evening  in  question  I  had  got  everything  ready  for 
developing  photographs  in  my  tent,  when  I  noticed 
one  of  our  "  boys  "  wandering  about  with  a  torch. 
I  asked  him  what  was  the  matter,  and  he  replied : 
"  Ants,  Massa,  ants !  "  When  a  negro  raises  the 
cry  of  ants  at  night  in  the  forest,  he  refers  to  "  driver 
ants,"  and  the  dreaded  name  will  alarm  the  whole 
village.  I  recalled  all  the  horrors  of  an  "  ant  night  " 
in  the  Cross  River  district,  and  with  a  foreboding  of 
evil  I  rushed  into  my  room.  I  heard  the  sinister  hum 
of  their  wings,  and  by  the  light  of  the  lamp  I  saw  that 
the  walls,  floor,  and  ceiling  were  black  with  ants.  The 
space  between  our  house  and  that  of  the  "  boys  " 
was  swarming  with  ants,  the  adjoining  plantation 
was  swarming  with  ants  ;  everjrthing  was  black  and 
seemed  to  move.  They  had  evidently  been  attracted 
to  our  dwelUng  by  the  numerous  cockroaches,  and 
we  attacked  them  with  burning  petroleum  and 
naphthaline. 

A  scene  of  wild  excitement  ensued.  All  the  spiders, 
lizards,  and  above  all,  the  cockroaches,  sought  safety 
in  flight,  and  the  "  boys  "  screamed  whenever  they 
were  bitten.  Our  combined  efforts  succeeded  in 
diverting  the  main  attack  in  another  direction.  The 
infuriated  insects  clung  for  some  time  to  the  roof, 
hanging  in  bunches  to  the  palm  fronds  of  which  it 
was  composed,  and  dropping  one  by  one  to  the  ground. 
Woe  betide  the  unwary  individual  who  received  an 
ant  in  his  neck !  The  foggy  weather  eventually  drove 
away  the  ants,  and   ranging  themselves  in  a  column 


104      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

three  inches  wide,  the  black  host  went  on  its  way. 
A  few  scattered  divisions  remained  in  our  neighbour- 
hood, which  we  proceeded  to  clear  of  weeds,  in  order 
to  deprive  these  unwelcome  guests  of  their  commissariat. 
There  was  a  curious  sequel  to  this  nocturnal  visitation. 
A  few  days  later  I  noticed  in  my  room  a  horrible  smell, 
which  seemed  to  come  from  under  the  flooring.  On 
removing  the  boards,  I  found  a  large,  living,  poisonous 
snake,  and  the  dead  bodies  of  three  others,  which 
had  apparently  fallen  victims  to  the  driver  ants. 
Sooner  or  later  these  insects  kill  everything  they  come 
across,  even  large  animals  that  are  unable  to  get 
away.  Fowls,  goats,  and  sheep,  shut  up  in  a  shed, 
are  doomed  unless  their  owners  succeed  in  diverting 
the  hne  of  march  of  the  ants. 

Birds  were  very  plentiful  in  the  forest  surrounding 
Molundu.  Five  or  six  varieties  of  large  rhinoceros- 
birds  fluttered  from  tree  to  tree ;  many-hued  parrots  and 
green  doves  plundered  the  wild  fig-trees,  and  flights 
of  twittering  bee-eaters  circled  like  swallows  in  the 
air.  Variegated  shrikes  hopped  about  in  the  under- 
wood, and  the  scarlet  cups  of  the  flowering  spathodea 
were  surrounded  by  iridescent  sun -birds,  the  most 
charming  of  all  African  sun- birds.  A  hickxia  grew  in 
front  of  our  house,  and  its  branches  were  covered  with 
weaver-birds'  nests,  in  which  we  could  sometimes 
distinguish  the  golden  plumage  of  the  occupants. 
There  were  hundreds  of  these  birds,  and  they  were  so 
noisy  that  it  was  often  impossible  to  do  any  work  ; 
a  gun  fired  out  of  the  window  silenced  the  twittering 
for  a  few  minutes,  but  it  soon  began  again  with  renewed 
vigour. 

Of  the  forest  animals,  mammals  are  the  least  often 
seen.     It  is  not  that  they  are  rare,   but    the  forest 


RESEARCH  WORK  IN  MOLUNDU         105 

affords  them  so  secure  a  hiding-place  that  even  the 
natives  find  it  difficult  to  track  them.  Consequently 
the  most  enthusiastic  hunter  very  seldom  gets  any 
reward  for  his  pains,  and  must  be  prepared  to  spend 
days  and  even  weeks  in  the  pursuit  of  big  game. 

There  are,  however,  a  few  spots  in  the  forest  which 
are  frequented  by  wild  beasts  of  all  kinds.  These 
are  the  so-called  "  grass-fields  "  :  open  spaces  in  the 
midst  of  the  jungle.  It  was  here  that  the  native 
hunters  found  the  new  specimens  of  ruminants  which 
they  brought  to  us  in  Molundu,  often  after  many 
days'  fruitless  hunting.  These  were  small  tufted 
antelopes,  and  on  one  occasion,  a  large  red  buffalo, 
which  had  paid  an  early  morning  visit  to  the  plantations 
belonging  to  the  station. 

The  most  interesting  varieties  of  animals  can  be 
found  only  in  the  densest  part  of  the  jungle,  for  instance 
the  Uttle  musk-deer,  and  sleepy  semi-apes  that  live 
in  the  thickest  branches  of  the  trees,  and  come  out 
only  by  night,  when  their  plaintive  cry  may  be  heard. 
Here,  too,  is  the  abode  of  the  rare  flying  squirrel. 

But  by  far  the  most  interesting  inhabitant  of  this 
district  is  the  mighty  gorilla,  the  sinister  hermit  of 
these  melancholy  forest  solitudes.  In  all  the  villages 
there  are  stories  of  his  strange  habits,  of  fierce  fights, 
and  of  attacks  on  soHtary  travellers,  truth  and  fable 
being  inextricably  confused.  But  one  can  make 
allowance  for  a  good  many  inventions  after  examining 
the  skull  of  one  of  these  creatures,  with  its  power- 
ful wild-beast  jaw.  The  persistent  assertion  of  the 
Congo  natives  that  the  gorilla  carries  off  women  is 
probably  untrue,  but  many  other  narratives  cannot 
be  set  aside,  since  they  are  unanimously  upheld  by 
all  the  South  Cameroon  tribes,  and  the  details  are  so 


106      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

realistic  that  it  is  difficult  not  to  believe  them.  It 
must  also  be  admited  that  there  is  probably  a  foun- 
dation of  truth  in  the  fantastic  stories  told  by  du 
Chaillu. 

The  natives  all  agree  that  the  gorilla  prefers  to  Uve 
in  an  aframomum  jungle,  and  that  its  red  fruit  con- 
stitutes his  chief  food.  I  was  further  assured  that 
he  remains  on  the  ground  almost  entirely,  and  has 
often  been  seen  making  use  of  roads  and  paths  con- 
structed by  man. 

The  evidence  as  to  whether  he  makes  a  nest  is  con- 
flicting. I  am  inclined  to  think  that  this  depends 
on  the  individual  inclination  of  the  animal,  as  is  the 
case  with  the  chimpanzee.  I  gathered  from  the 
accounts  of  the  natives  that  it  is  only  the  females 
and  young  gorillas  that  live  in  a  kind  of  shelter  made 
of  branches  and  perched  in  the  fork  of  a  tree.  The 
males  are  said  to  sleep  on  the  ground  on  a  bed  of  leaves, 
leaning  against  a  thick  tree-trunk.  Judging  by  my 
own  observations  later  on,  this  version  seems  to  me 
to  be  probably  the  most  correct. 

All  my  black  informants  likewise  agreed  that  solitary 
male  gorillas  will  attack  a  traveller  unprovoked,  but 
they  are  generally  intimidated  if  their  adversary 
brandishes  some  shining  object,  such  as  a  hunting 
knife. 

On  the  whole,  gorilla  hunting  was  described  to  me 
as  a  highly  dangerous  pastime,  and  the  chief  difficulty 
seems  to  be  to  await  the  right  moment  for  shooting. 
When  the  gorilla  catches  sight  of  the  hunter,  he  sways 
from  one  foot  to  the  other,  at  the  same  time  roaring 
and  trying  to  frighten  away  his  enemy  by  brandishing 
his  long  arms.  This  is  not  the  time  to  shoot,  for  his 
movements  are  so  rapid  and  violent  that  it  is  impossible 


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106.   Basanga  dancer  after  sketches  by  Dr.  Schultze. 


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RESEARCH  WORK  IN  MOLUNDU        107 

to  take  correct  aim.  The  gorilla  then  rushes  at  the 
hunter,  and  now  is  the  best  time  to  shoot  him  in  the 
chest.  But  I  can  hardly  believe  that  the  natives 
have  the  courage  to  wait  until  the  animal  charges 
them,  for  to  my  mind  this  must  require  nerves  of 
steel. 

A  native  of  Gaboon,  named  Undene,  who  was  at  one 
time  my  orderly,  related  to  me  the  following  adventure 
which  befell  him  when  he  was  in  charge  of  the  little 
station  N'gato,  in  the  jungle  north  of  Molundu.  On 
the  main  road  he  twice  shot  two  large  male  gorillas, 
and  it  was  in  connection  with  the  first  of  these  adventures 
that  he  related  to  me  the  following  story. 

He  found  the  animal,  a  powerful  male,  leaning  against 
a  tree  trunk,  sound  asleep,  and  shot  it  without  killing 
it.  The  gorilla  charged  his  assailant  with  lightning 
speed,  and  seizing  his  gun  with  one  hand  endeavoured 
to  carry  it  to  its  mouth  in  order  to  bite  it  up.  With 
the  other  hand  it  grasped  its  opponent's  leg  so  as  to 
throw  him  down.  With  great  difficulty  Undene 
managed  to  reload,  but  in  his  terror  he  missed  the 
ape,  who  was  still  holding  on  to  the  muzzle  of  the 
gun.  At  last  he  succeeded  in  reloading  once  more, 
and  this  time  shot  the  animal  in  the  breast  and  killed 
it.  During  the  struggle  the  animal  kept  up  a  mighty 
roar.  One  thing  is  evident :  gorilla  hunting  takes 
place  at  close  quarters,  and  calls  for  rapid  action, 
combined  with  the  utmost  coolness. 

The  smaller,  long-tailed  monkeys  and  the  beautiful 
black  colobtts,  with  its  handsome  white,  silky  frill  and 
tail,  are  much  commoner  than  their  large  relative, 
and  are  in  fact  more  plentiful  than  any  other  mammal. 
They  leap  wildly  from  tree  to  tree,  and  the  rustling 
of    the    branches    attracts    the    traveller's    attention, 


108      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

though  he  can  catch  only  a  momentary  gUmpse  of 
the  acrobat. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  in  Molundu  we  heard  that 
owing  to  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  bearers  in  this 
district,  the  Buea  authorities  were  sending  us  from 
the  Ebolowa  country  a  caravan  of  a  hundred  and  fifty 
men.  This  would  have  been  a  great  help  if  we  had 
intended  to  travel  rapidly  in  the  direction  of  the  coast, 
but  as  we  proposed  to  proceed  as  slowly  as  possible 
through  thinly  populated  districts  offering  special  faciH- 
ties  for  collecting  zoological  and  botanical  specimens, 
we  began  to  wonder  how  we  could  possibly  feed  such 
an  army  of  bearers. 

On  the  3rd  of  December  a  messenger  arrived  from 
Lieutenant  Edler  von  der  Planitz,  the  leader  of  the  cara- 
van, begging  us  to  send  boats  to  fetch  the  men  from 
the  Dongo  rapids,  about  forty  miles  above  Molundu. 
This  the  energetic  governor  of  the  station  at  once 
agreed  to  do,  and  the  very  same  day  he  set  off  up  stream 
with  a  flotilla  of  canoes,  manned  by  the  best  Mi-Ssanga 
rowers,  both  men  and  women.  Ten  days  later  he 
returned  to  Molundu,  accompanied  by  the  leader  of 
the  caravan,  who  related  that  he  and  his  men  had 
had  a  most  fatiguing  march  via  Missum-Missum  and 
Eta,  and  that  by  the  time  they  reached  the  Dongo 
rapids  their  provisions  were  exhausted,  so  that  the 
relief  party  under  Herr  Koch  was  most  welcome. 
They  had  not  been  able  to  bring  all  the  bearers  by 
water,  as  the  additional  canoes  which  Herr  Koch 
had  hoped  to  pick  up  at  some  of  the  villages  on  the 
way,  were  absent  from  home.  But  he  succeeded  in 
shooting  a  hippopotamus  and  a  large  crocodile,  and 
thus  suppKed  the  men  with  meat.  Two  days  later 
the    rest   of    the   bearers   reached   Molundu,    and  the 


RESEARCH  WORK  IN  MOLUNDU         109 

excellent  condition  of  all  the  men  bore  witness  to  the 
careful  management  of  their  leader. 

Our  doubts  as  to  what  we  should  do  with  all  these 
men  were  resolved  by  the  lieutenant's  account  of 
his  experiences,  which  left  us  no  hesitation  as  to  the 
best  course  to  pursue.  The  provisioning  of  his  caravan 
had  been  accomplished  only  by  loading  most  of  the 
men  with  supplies  of  rice  and  stock  fish,  so  we  made 
up  our  minds  to  take  only  fifty-five  of  the  strongest 
of  the  bearers,  and  to  send  back  the  remainder  before 
Christmas  in  charge  of  Lieutenant  von  der  Planitz. 

There  was  a  large  party  for  our  Christmas  celebrations, 
including  several  "  rubber  lions,"  this  being  an  ironical 
nickname  for  the  South  Cameroon  traders.  As  is 
always  the  case  in  the  tropics,  we  missed  the  true 
Christmas  spirit,  inseparable  as  it  is  from  the  odour 
of  fir-trees  and  wintry  weather.  But  we  made  the 
warm  still  night  resound  with  Christmas  carols  as  we 
stood  round  our  Christmas  tree  that  glittered  with 
Ughted  tapers. 

Just  about  Christmas  time  the  weather  was  particu- 
larly sultry,  although  the  heat  was  relieved  at  intervals 
by  typical  tropical  tornadoes,  that  came  up  from  the 
East  with  marvellous  rapidity,  driving  before  them 
a  cloud  of  swirling  leaves,  and  darkening  the  sky  until 
the  tree  trunks  showed  white  against  the  background 
of  inky  clouds.  (lUus.  101.)  In  spite  of  the  frequent 
downpours,  the  flooded  fields  began  to  dry  up,  exhaUng 
foul  miasmas.  Before  the  end  of  the  year  the  Djah 
had  fallen  twelve  feet,  and  both  bridges  over  the  Lupi 
were  passable  once  more ;  the  forest  swamps  and 
morasses,  however,  took  much  longer  to  dry  up. 

Now  that  we  were  supplied  with  bearers,  there  was 
no  further  obstacle  to  our  journey  north.     We  had 


110      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

planned  to  travel  by  easy  stages  to  Yukaduma,  and 
thence,  after  making  a  short  digression  into  the  grassy 
plains,  to  proceed  due  west  towards  the  coast.  Further, 
we  had  decided  that  one  of  us  should  always  remain 
two  or  three  days'  march  behind  the  other,  each  travel- 
ling with  his  own  baggage.  By  this  means,  whilst 
waiting  for  the  bearers  to  return  and  take  up  the 
baggage  of  the  second  man,  we  should  both  of  us  have 
time  to  explore  the  neighbourhood  of  each  camping 
ground.  This  plan  had,  of  course,  the  disadvantage 
of  obliging  the  bearers  to  traverse  each  stage  three 
times. 

Mildbraed  set  out  on  one  of  the  last  days  of  the  old 
year,  and  proceeded  to  N'ginda  in  the  Bangandu 
district,  which  he  had  already  explored  early  in 
November.  He  was  disappointed  on  reaching  the 
mouth  of  the  Boke  River,  this  neighbourhood  having 
been  described  to  him  as  a  most  promising  field  for 
botanical  research.  He  found  nothing  but  a  barren 
swamp,  infested  with  tsetse  flies,  which  made  it  almost 
impossible  to  do  any  work. 

Mildbraed  was  able  to  prolong  his  first  stage,  as  I 
still  had  a  great  deal  of  ethnological  work  to  do  in 
Molundu.  I  had  a  long  list  of  about  a  thousand 
questions  to  be  answered,  entrusted  to  me  by  the 
Hamburg  ethnological  museum,  and  which  involved 
more  work  than  I  had  anticipated.  Several  hours, 
and  sometimes  even  a  whole  day,  were  required  to 
obtain  accurate  answers  to  some  of  these  questions, 
especially  those  regarding  abstract  subjects,  although 
Herr  Koch,  with  his  wide  knowledge  of  his  subordinates, 
was  of  great  assistance  to  me. 

I  had  consequently  but  little  time  for  any  other 
research  work,  and  I  was  forced  to  be  content  with 


RESEARCH  WORK  IN  MOLUNDU         111 

the  zoological  specimens  brought  me  by  my  "  boys," 
many  of  which  proved  most  interesting.  I  have  a 
vivid  recollection  of-  the  occasion  when  one  of  the 
natives  brought  in  a  hooded  snake  six  feet  in  length, 
Naja  melanoleuca,  one  of  the  most  venomous  of  African 
reptiles.  Its  head  was  held  in  a  forked  branch,  and 
there  were  some  highly  exciting  moments  while  we 
endeavoured  to  get  it  into  a  large  jar  of  alcohol.  At 
length  my  Togo  cook,  with  the  most  disconcerting 
coolness,  succeeded  in  kilUng  the  dangerous  creature 
in  spite  of  its  struggles. 

My  ethnological  studies  necessitated  considerable 
physical  exertion,  including  long  walks  to  the  native 
villages,  and  visits  to  distant  farms  and  forest  clearances, 
where  the  large  trunks  destined  for  canoe  building 
were  being  hollowed  out.  Perhaps  the  most  exhausting 
work  took  place  in  the  hot,  stuffy  bark  houses  (illus.  102), 
long  and  low,  and  which  were  certainly  not  violet-scented. 
Here  I  spent  many  hours  sketching,  or  endeavouring, 
often  unsuccessfully,  to  extract  from  an  old  "  medicine 
man  "  his  jealously  guarded  secrets.  Meanwhile  the 
rain  rattled  on  the  roof,  and  the  thick,  stinging  smoke, 
for  which  there  was  no  outlet,  brought  the  tears  to 
my  eyes  and  choked  my  lungs.  And  yet  I  have  many 
pleasant  recollections  of  the  hours  spent  in  these 
cannibal  villages,  sketch-book  in  hand,  watching  the 
natives,  busy  at  their  various  employments,  or  Ustening 
to  their  narratives  which  betrayed  a  strange  mixture 
of  truth  and  naive  superstition. 

Many  of  the  latter  recalled  similar  beliefs  that  I 
had  come  across  at  home,  for  instance,  that  the  hooting 
of  an  owl  is  an  omen  of  death.  Other  superstitions, 
no  less  remarkable,  explain  the  occasionally  mysterious 
behaviour  of  the  natives.     Their  deeply-rooted  terror 


112      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

of  Europeans  may  be  attributed  mainly  to  the  belief 
that  the  white  men  are  ghosts,  souls  of  departed 
]VIi-Ssangas,  returned  to  life  in  a  new  guise.  Many 
supernatural  powers  are  ascribed  to  us,  and  this  idea 
is  nearly  related  to  the  behef  that  albinos  are  omniscient 
"  medicine  men." 

It  is  very  difficult  to  obtain  accurate  information 
regarding  cannibalism,  which  is  still  occasionally 
practised  in  secret,  but  upon  which  severe  penalties 
are  imposed  by  the  European  authorities.  Many 
customs  are  so  deeply  rooted  that  they  resist  for 
a  long  time  the  influence  of  civilization.  Herr 
Koch's  small  "  boy,"  who  bore  the  proud  name  of 
"  Commandant,"  had  so  far  lapsed  from  the  traditions 
of  his  race  that  he  looked  down  upon  the  people 
of  his  own  village  with  the  utmost  contempt,  and 
showed  no  compunction  in  addressing  the  old  men  as 
"  You  nigger  !  "  Yet  he  was  not  to  be  dissuaded 
from  the  disfiguring  custom  of  sharpening  the  teeth, 
and  one  day  he  had  his  splendid  teeth  filed  to  a  point. 
A  Mi-Ssanga's  idea  of  beauty  will  not  permit  him  to 
leave  his  teeth  in  their  natural  condition. 

Like  all  negroes,  the  Mi-Ssangas  displayed  their 
emotions  principally  in  dancing,  and  I  received  the 
best  impression  of  their  feelings  and  thoughts  on  the 
occasion  of  a  dancing  festival  held  in  honour  of  a 
deceased  woman. 

These  festivities  took  place  in  the  broad  street  of 
the  village  of  Molundu,  and  began  soon  after  sunset.  We 
had  scarcely  taken  our  places  on  our  camp  stools, 
when  by  the  dim  light  of  a  wood  fire,  the  audience, 
comprising  almost  all  the  villagers,  arranged  themselves 
in  a  large  semi-circle,  leaving  a  space  free  for  dancing. 
The  orchestra  consisted  of  two  drums,  and  a  few  notched 


RESEARCH  WORK  IN  MOLUNDU         113 

sticks  which  were  drawn  like  violin  bows  across  another 
piece  of  wood  ;  in  addition  there  was  the  hand-clapping 
of  the  audience,  and  the  jingling  of  the  women's  anklets. 
The  dancing  displayed  marvellous  activity  and  grace, 
and  was  executed  mostly  by  women,  alone  or  in 
pairs.  Frenzied  movements  from  the  hips,  showing 
wonderful  elasticity  and  suppleness,  were  the  most 
striking  part  of  all  the  dances.  The  children  also 
joined  in  the  dancing,  and  displayed  the  same  grace 
and  suppleness  as  their  elders. 

After  a  time  the  semi-circle  of  spectators  and  musicians 
opened  to  admit  a  startling  apparition,  which  was 
greeted  with  enthusiastic  applause.  A  woman  stepped 
into  the  circle  of  light  formed  by  the  flickering  fire ; 
she  was  slim,  and  perhaps  somewhat  withered,  but  her 
body  was  whitened  with  kaolin,  and  her  coquettish 
dress  made  her  look  younger  than  she  really  was. 
(lUus.  108.)  She  was  clothed  in  a  short  skirt  composed 
of  a  number  of  raphia  fibres,  bunched  out,  and  looking 
something  Hke  the  dress  of  a  ballet  dancer.  On  her 
head  she  wore  an  erection  of  feathers,  and  round  her 
legs  strings  of  fruit  stones  rattled  as  she  moved.  A 
number  of  bracelets  and  anklets  completed  her  attire, 
which  was  most  attractive,  harmonizing  perfectly 
with  her  surroundings.  Then  began  a  dance,  or  rather 
a  series  of  dance  figures,  which  in  grace  and  frenzied 
rapidity  of  movements  far  surpassed  anything  that 
we  had  yet  witnessed.  (lUus.  106.)  The  Mi-Ssangas, 
men  and  women  alike,  watched  the  performance  with 
glowing  eyes,  applauding  enthusiastically  after  each 
dance.  The  dancer  was  soon  bathed  in  perspiration, 
but  she  danced  on  indefatigably,  introducing  new 
figures,  whilst  the  applause  grew  ever  louder,  and 
the  drums  kept  up  a  deafening  din.     It  was  midnight 


114       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

when  we  retired,  after  rewarding  the  chief  performers, 
but  all  night  long  the  noise  continued,  ceasing  only 
with  the  approach  of  dawn. 

The  Pygmies  were  the  most  interesting  people  whose 
acquaintance  I  made  in  Molundu ;  we  had  noticed 
them  in  a  dark  comer  of  the  jungle  on  the  banks  of 
the  Djah,  as  we  passed  in  the  steamer.  Ebayeggas, 
or  Bayeas,  they  call  themselves,  whilst  the  Congo 
natives  call  them  Bomanyoks,  or  elephant  hunters. 
It  was  a  long  time  before  I  came  into  closer 
contact  with  these  dwarfs,  for  they  spend  their 
time  following  elephant  tracks  up  and  down  the 
jungle. 

I  paid  a  visit  one  day  to  the  abandoned  dwellings 
of  these  jungle  gipsies,  not  far  from  Molundu.  It 
had  been  occupied  by  the  tribe  which  was  in  the  habit 
of  supplying  the  villagers  of  Molundu  with  elephant 
meat.  There  exists  a  kind  of  mutual  compact  between 
the  Bantus  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  Pygmies  on  the 
other,  whereby  the  latter  are  supplied  by  the  former 
with  fruit,  hunting  weapons,  and  various  indispensable 
trifles,  in  return  for  which  they  give  up  some  of  the 
coveted  elephant  meat  and  ivory.  There  is  no  question 
of  the  dwarfs  being  in  subjection  to  the  other  tribes, 
as  some  travellers  have  asserted.  The  Pygmies  are 
fully  aware  of  their  importance  as  providers  of  meat, 
and  it  matters  little  to  them  which  villages  they  supply, 
since  they  are  never  in  danger  of  cannibal  attacks  by 
the  inhabitants.  There  is  such  mutual  confidence 
between  the  Pygmies  and  the  other  native  tribes,  that 
the  former  readily  believe  the  horrors  that  are  related 
to  them  in  connection  with  Europeans.  This  explains 
the  timidity  of  the  Bomanyoks  towards  white  men, 
which  is   fostered    by  the    cunning    Bantus   in   their 


109.    Pygmv  settlement  near  Molundu. 


110.   Pygmv  playing  on  the  Xylophone. 


■A 

-     ■     r<^ 

r     I-'.,  •  r        ^ 

^^;*-^                "il^ 

•  -^  *■  V 'Jv^  ■' v^ir  ., 

f^   i 

^|2^E^^^99^KQkh^^B^^B^^^^|^^^^^^^^^^Kj{i^^^^^E^^^^^I^^^|^^^H^^^| 

111.    Pygmies  from  the  neighbourhord  of  Molundu. 


112.   Pygmy  women. 


RESEARCH  WORK  IN  MOLUNDU         115 

anxiety  to  keep  the  ivory  and  india-rubber  trade  in 
their  own  hands. 

In  the  abandoned  Pygmy  settlement  I  could  examine 
at  my  leisure  the  peculiar  construction  of  these  primitive 
semi-circular  huts,  hidden  away  in  the  dark  recesses 
of  the  forest.  (lUus.  109,  110.)  Their  shape  reminded 
me  of  the  "  pontoks  "  of  the  South  African  tribes  : 
huts  barely  six  feet  in  height,  formed  of  sticks  bent  in 
a  semi- circle  with  both  ends  sunk  in  the  ground,  and 
roofed  with  large  fhrynium  leaves.  (lUus.  134.)  Later 
on,  when  we  camped  in  the  forest,  my  bearers  often 
constructed  similar  huts  in  a  very  short  time,  affording 
an  efficient  shelter  against  the  inclemencies  of  the 
weather. 

At  last,  as  the  water  began  to  dry  up,  bringing  the 
elephants  nearer  to  the  rivers,  I  received  one  day 
the  welcome  news  that  the  Pygmies  were  returning. 
The  chieftain  of  Molundu  introduced  me  to  two 
Ebayeggas ;  they  were  certainly  short  of  stature, 
but  in  other  respects  showed  few  of  the  characteristics 
of  a  dwarf  race.  I  soon  succeeded  in  dispelling  their 
distrust,  and  in  learning  from  them  a  few  sentences 
which  seemed  to  me  indispensable  for  my  proposed 
visit  to  their  new  settlement. 

The  first  time  I  visited  their  huts,  the  result  of  my 
approach  was  just  what  I  had  anticipated.  Although 
I  had  given  notice  of  my  visit,  every  man,  woman, 
and  child  slipped  noiselessly  into  the  adjoining  jungle 
before  I  came  even  into  sight,  and  the  breaking  of  a 
twig  alone  notified  the  direction  in  which  the  last 
Pygmy  had  taken  flight.  But  when  I  shouted  after 
them  one  of  the  words  that  I  had  learned  ;  "  Mokbea  " 
(do  not  be  afraid !)  they  gradually  returned,  first  the 
men,  then  the  older  women,  and  finally,  though  with 


116      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

some  hesitation,  the  young  women  with  their  babies 
in  their  arms,  followed  by  their  children.  It  was  not 
until  I  had  paid  them  several  visits  that  they  trusted 
me  entirely,  and  eventually  no  one  took  to  flight 
when  they  saw  me  approaching. 

Most  of  the  Pygmies  that  I  now  saw  fully  confirmed 
my  preconceived  notions  as  to  their  appearance. 
(lUus.  Ill,  112.)  The  men  were  small,  stunted,  and 
muscular,  with  a  yellow-brown  skin,  large,  wide-set  eyes, 
bushy  eye-brows,  big  fleshy  noses,  and  very  long  arms. 
I  was  specially  struck  by  their  prominent  brows  and 
protruding  mouth  with  its  thin  lips.  (lUus.  115.) 
A  few  individuals,  both  men  and  women,  were  unusually 
hairy,  and  one  man,  with  a  great  mane  and  long  beard, 
might  easily  have  been  taken  for  an  Australian  aborigine. 
(lUus.  113.) 

The  features  of  the  Pygmies  were  not  nearly  so 
coarse  as  I  had  expected,  and  though  many  of  them 
were  decidedly  ugly,  some  of  them,  especially  the  women, 
had  expressive,  almost  pretty  faces.  I  was  puzzled  by 
the  sight  of  a  few  individuals  who  were  much  taller, 
or  were  darker  in  colour,  or  else  possessed  typical 
negro  lips.  I  asked  my  Mi-Ssanga  guide  whether 
there  was  any  intermarriage  between  his  tribe  and 
the  Pygmies,  but  he  assured  me  that  this  never  occurred, 
and  that  if  a  Mi-Ssanga  man  were  to  demean  himself 
so  far  as  to  fall  in  love  with  a  Pygmy  woman,  he  would 
make  himself  a  laughing-stock  among  his  own  people, 
and  would  be  despised  by  the  women-folk.  Later 
on,  however,  he  admitted  to  me  "  under  the  seal  of 
secrecy "  that  dming  a  hunting  expedition  which 
kept  him  away  from  home  for  many  weeks,  and  forced 
him  to  Uve  for  some  time  with  the  Bomanyoks,  he 
had  departed  from  the  good  customs  of  his  tribe. 


RESEARCH  WORK  IN  MOLUNDU         117 

By  the  end  of  January  I  was  so  far  advanced  with 
my  ethnological  studies  that  I  could  think  about  follow- 
ing Mildbraed,  and  it  was  with  a  sigh  of  rehef  that  I 
placed  a  full  stop  at  the  end  of  the  last  answer  to  the 
last  question.  More  than  thirty  large  packing  cases 
full  of  ethnological,  zoological,  and  botanical  specimens, 
the  result  of  three  months'  hard  work,  were  despatched 
by  steamer  to  the  Congo,  and  on  the  28th  of  January 
I  took  leave  of  the  residents  of  Molundu,  who  had 
extended  their  hospitality  to  me  for  nearly  a  quarter 
of  a  year.  For  the  last  time  I  crossed  the  familiar 
bridge  over  the  Lupi,  now  reduced  to  a  tiny  stream, 
and  then  I  set  forth  on  my  travels,  along  the  wide 
caravan  road  leading  towards  the  North. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

ON   THE   ROAD   TO   YUKADUMA 

It  is  strange  how  hard  it  is  to  eradicate  geographical 
errors,  when  once  they  have  obtained  credence  in 
scientific  circles.  One  of  these  errors  which  is  obstin- 
ately retained  in  otherwise  trustworthy  geographical 
books,  is  the  assertion  that  in  the  African  tropics 
there  are  no  great  primeval  forests,  such  as  occur 
in  northern  South  America  and  in  the  Malay  peninsula. 

When  Stanley  published  his  graphic  descriptions 
of  the  great  forests  of  the  Aruwimi,  there  was  not  a 
single  scientist  who  beheved  the  statements  of  the 
"  American  reporter."  How  was  it  possible,  they 
argued,  that  these  descriptions  could  be  true,  when 
explorers  such  as  Schweinfurth,  Pogge,  and  Wissmann, 
who  were  famiHar  with  the  Congo  basin  in  the  Southern 
hemisphere,  never  alluded  to  any  such  forests  in 
equatorial  Africa,  and  spoke  only  of  savaiuiahs  with 
narrow  wooded  belts  and  isolated  forest  glades  ? 

And  yet  there  is  a  great  primeval  forest  in  Africa, 
far  more  comprehensive  than  the  South  American 
Hylea  and  possessing  the  same  perplexing  luxuriance 
of  Uanas,  ferns,  and  epiphytes.  It  contains  the 
rotang  palms  of  the  Malay  forest ;  its  giant  trees 
are  equal  to  those  of  any  other  tropical  jungle 
in  height  as  well  as  in  the  extravagance  of  their 
root  formation ;  the  fronds  of  its  raphia  palms  are 
longer  than  those  of  any  other  palms  in  the  world ; 
us 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  YUKADUMA  119 

in  short,  this  forest  combines  in  the  highest  degree 
all  that  it  is  possible  to  imagine  in  the  way  of  tropical 
variety  and  luxuriance. 

The  traveller  who  has  seen  the  African  forest  only 
from  the  steamer  would  gain  a  very  different  impression 
if  he  were  to  force  his  way  inland  through  the  pathless 
jungle.  Beside  the  rivers  the  conditions  of  plant 
life  are  always  identical,  and  except  for  the  recently 
cultivated  tracts,  the  vegetation  of  the  banks,  in  spite 
of  its  grandeur,  is  wearisome  in  its  monotony.  I 
could  well  understand  Mildbraed's  satisfaction  when, 
two  or  tliree  miles  from  Molundu,  he  came  to  higher 
ground  and  left  the  swamp-land  behind. 

This  part  of  the  forest  is  interrupted  at  intervals  by 
clearances  which  have  been  made  for  agricultural  pur- 
poses, and  which  permit  the  isolated  trees  left  standing 
to  develop  to  their  full  extent.  The  foggy  weather 
which  persisted  for  several  days  made  the  gigantic  trees 
seem  even  larger  than  they  were  in  reality.  The  impos- 
ing appearance  of  their  huge  trunks,  a  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  or  more  in  height,  is  enhanced  by  the  presence 
of  the  dense  Phrynium  and  Maranthen  undergrowth 
(belonging  to  the  same  family  as  the  ginger  and  the 
red-flowering  Canna  indica),  which  grows  to  a  height 
of  fifteen  to  twenty  feet.  Each  individual  tree  shows 
to  advantage,  and  the  bizarre  elk-horn  ferns  {Platy- 
cerium  together  with  the  long  bmiches  of  Angrecum 
and  other  tree  orchids  hanging  down  from  the  branches, 
give  a  deceptive  appearance  of  virginity. 

The  Uanas,  too,  are  better  developed  and  in  greater 
variety  than  I  have  seen  elsewhere.  I  observed  a 
particularly  striking  leguminous  chmbing  plant,  in 
the  form  of  a  wooden  rope  of  the  thickness  of  one's 
finger,  wliich  winds  itself  spirally  round  a  branch  or 


no      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

trunk,  and  then  stretches,  hke  a  huge  corkscrew,  to 
the  next  available  tree,  the  queerest  caricature  of  the 
vegetable  world  that  can  be  imagined. 

Among  the  forest  giants  the  Kickxias,  or  india- 
rubber  trees,  grow  in  great  profusion,  and  the  numerous 
incisions,  some  old  and  some  recent,  in  their  smooth 
silver-grey  trunks,  call  attention  to  the  product  which 
is  the  sole  source  of  the  present  importance  of  the  South 
Cameroon  s.  Other  tall  trees  with  dense  foUage,  whose 
little  dark-green  leaves  recalled  those  of  the  box  tree, 
were  pointed  out  to  me  by  Musa,  my  Kunabambe 
"  boy,"  as  the  important  Peki  tree  {Irvingia  gabonensis) 
whose  fruit,  like  that  of  the  Mimusops  djave,  supphes 
the  natives  of  this  district  with  a  vegetable  fat,  which 
to  a  certain  extent,  takes  the  place  of  palm-oil. 

There  are  many  interesting  things  to  be  seen  in  the 
underwood,  and  the  sense  of  smell  is  often  very  useful, 
although  the  odours  that  assail  the  fastidious  nose  of 
the  European  in  the  musty  jungle  are  not  always 
pleasant. 

On  my  first  day's  march  after  leaving  Molundu, 
I  repeatedly  noticed  a  horrible,  putrid  smell,  which  I 
had  observed  also  during  former  excursions  in  the 
jungle.  I  followed  it  up,  and  in  a  dark  corner, 
growing  on  a  heap  of  vegetable  refuse,  I  found  a 
whole  colony  of  the  most  extraordinary  fungus  that 
I  have  ever  seen.  From  the  head  of  each  fungus  grew 
a  delicate  snow-white,  reticulate  bell,  with  perfectly 
regular,  octagonal  meshes.  (Illus.  116.)  This  fungus 
formed  the  most  charming  picture  imaginable,  but 
woe  betide  anyone  who  approached  too  near  it ! 
Swarms  of  carrion  flies  buzzed  around,  and  the 
odour  that  it  exhaled  was  so  overpowering  that  even 
my    "  boys "    held   their   noses.    The   carrier   of   my 


b^^HB 

Br^ 

'  ^^M^^H 

^H^ 

^K  /  'm 

i^^p 

^^^^^H 

^K>-:        - 

w^^^^^ 

^^^^^I^^^^K^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 

^^^^^K      ^'^^^Hiri^^^^l 

»         1 

4VM^ 

^^^^^H^^^^^^^r^  ^^^^^^^^^H^ 

i#     V-        ^b 

^^^Z^^^l 

^^^^^^^^^^^^I^^^E^^P  '*^  -m 

^Bf^      1^1 

^^^H^^^^^H 

^^^^^^^^^^^K     .flb 

f  1? 

^HH 

?v  ^^^^ff^a 

'  1  if 

0^H^> 

^^Hl       '^^^^^B 

ij^Rii 

^MftAy^ 

£^1 

rKji    ■   ^   ■ 

JHHfli 

^^m-    aI 

^Kf     afe  ^^ 

■i^i^^^^^^^^^i 

^^^H*^       ^ 

^^B.  '  '  ^fi^^^^l 

L^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l^l 

•^-^  ^^^B'         ' 

k^^-  vQH^I 

Iflll^HH^^HHiHHi 

113.    Pygmy. 


114.   Elk-horn  fern  (Platycerium)  on  a  tree-stem. 


115.    Bangandu  and  two  pygmies. 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  YUKADUMA  121 

photographic  apparatus  stood  for  a  short  time  beside 
it,  so  that  I  was  able  to  take  a  photograph  with  an 
exposure  of  forty  seconds. 

I  know  of  nothing  that  tends  to  develop  one's  powers 
of  observation  like  prolonged  travelling  in  the  jungle. 
The  eye  soon  grows  accustomed  to  the  perpetual  semi- 
twilight,  and  discovers  a  wealth  of  living  things  such 
as  can  be  found  nowhere  else  in  the  world.  It  is  not 
exciting  big-game  hunting  that  provides  occupation 
for  the  traveller  who  explores  the  jungle,  and  anyone 
whose  interest  centres  only  in  sport  had  better  keep 
away,  or  he  will  certainly  be  disappointed.  But  for 
any  one  who  appreciates  the  marvellous  biological 
phenomena  of  the  lesser  animal  world,  the  tropical 
forest  offers  supreme  delights.  He  will  never  tire 
of  watching  the  wonderful  African  birds  ;  the  powerful 
rhinoceros-bird,  with  its  noisy  flight ;  the  beautiful 
blue  turacou,  and  many  other  winged  creatures  that 
fill  the  groves  with  their  song.  Still  more  fascinating 
is  the  insect  world,  whose  bright  colours  compensate 
the  dearth  of  flowers. 

The  butterflies  are  specially  noteworthy,  not  only 
on  account  of  their  brilliant  colouring,  but  because 
of  their  peculiar  habits.  They  settle  upon  any  decaying 
fruit  that  may  have  fallen  to  the  ground.  (Illus.  119, 
121.)  Eagerly  feeding,  they  lose  all  timidity,  so  that 
I  could  approach  and  observe  the  wonderful  mosaic 
on  the  under  surface  of  their  wings. 

Besides  these  gaudy  creatures,  there  are  other  insects 
in  greater  numbers  than  is  altogether  pleasant  for  the 
traveller.  Numerous  representatives  of  the  ant  tribe, 
for  instance,  give  unmistakable  evidence  of  their 
presence.  There  are  the  driver  ants,  a  swarm  of  which 
had  attacked  us   at   the   beginning  of  our   overland 


n2      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

journey.  There  is  also  the  vicious  black  Sima  aethiops, 
living  in  the  hollow  branches  of  the  Barteria  fistulosa, 
and  feeding  on  its  foliage.  Anyone  who  has  accidently 
stumbled  against  a  branch  of  the  Barteria  will  be  careful 
not  to  do  so  again,  and  our  carriers  always  made  a 
respectful  detour  when  they  caught  sight  of  this  plant 
with  its  unpleasant  guests.  Mildbraed  suffered  much 
from  ants  in  the  course  of  his  botanical  work,  and  he 
complained  that  even  the  highest  branches  of  the 
Barteria,  which  he  shot  down,  were  swarming  with 
these  insects. 

On  reaching  the  higher  and  drier  country  within  a 
day's  march  of  Molundu,  we  entered  the  territory 
inhabited  by  the  Bangandus,  an  interesting  Soudanese 
tribe  which  has  retained  its  pohtical  independence  in 
the  midst  of  the  Mi-Ssangas,  N'dzimus,  Kunabembes, 
and  other  Congo  races.  If  I  had  not  been  warned  of 
their  presence,  I  should  certainly  have  failed  to  discover 
that  I  was  now  in  the  midst  of  another  race,  for  the 
Bangandus  have  faithfully  adopted  most  of  the  customs 
of  the  surrounding  tribes. 

Anyone  attempting  to  draw  definite  conclusions 
from  observations  among  the  Bangandus,  as  for 
example  mth  regard  to  the  distribution  and  origin 
of  their  various  weapons,  would  soon  be  at  a  loss. 
The  boundaries  limiting  the  use  of  the  various  javelins, 
so  important  for  the  ethnographer,  have  now  almost 
disappeared.  This  is  indirectly  owing  to  the  india- 
rubber  trade,  the  Haussas,  those  shrewd  Jewish  traders 
from  the  Soudan,  having  quickly  reaUzed  that  they, 
too,  might  get  some  profit  from  india-rubber.  I  was 
therefore  not  surprised  to  fuid  a  small  Haussa  colony 
as  far  south  as  Kinshassa,  near  Stanleypool.  On  my 
way  north  I   constantly   met  Haussas,   usually  man 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  YUKADUMA  123 

and  wife,  heavily  laden  with  wares  for  exchange. 
Anyone  who  realizes  the  extent  of  the  influence  exerted 
by  the  Haussas,  will  understand  how  the  disappearance 
of  all  racial  boundaries  is  thus  eventually  brought 
about. 

In  the  ideally  situated  village  of  Limbi  we  came 
across  a  curious  arrangement.  The  long  axis  of  this 
village  is  at  right  angles  to  the  maiu  road,  and  its  only 
entrance  is  through  a  building  about  thirty  feet  wide, 
provided  on  each  side  with  an  alcove,  and  intended  to 
accommodate  women  only.  (lUus.  117.)  I  ascertained, 
however,  that  this  is  a  purely  local  arrangement,  by 
no  means  universal.  It  was  not  until  I  had  left  the 
last  Bangandu  village  that  I  was  in  a  position  to 
record  the  manners  and  customs  of  these  people,  for 
in  every  hamlet  I  found  something  that  I  had  never 
seen  before. 

I  noticed  everjrwhere  that  the  inhabitants  took 
pains  to  make  their  villages  as  comfortable  as  possible. 
(lUus.  nil.) 

The  large  settlement  at  N'ginda,  where  I  spent 
five  days,  suppUed  me  with  most  of  the  models  for 
my  ethnographical  drawings,  especially  with  regard 
to  the  ironwork,  which  is  an  important  industry  of 
the  Bangandus.  The  dearth  of  raw  material  obliges 
them  to  use  imported  pig-iron,  with  which  they  manu- 
facture iron  implements  with  the  help  of  a  hammer 
and  double  bellows. 

But  if  the  Bangandus  have  taught  the  natives  of  the 
smrounding  tribes  how  to  make  hardware,  they  in 
their  turn  have  learnt  from  their  neighbours  the  art 
of  weaving.  The  simple  apparatus  by  means  of  which 
beautiful,  thick  stuffs  are  made  is  worked  only  by  the 
men,   and   resembles   in   principle   the   classical   loom 


124       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

of  the  ancients.  (Illus.  128.)  The  raw  material  is 
a  fine  and  soft,  though  tough  bast,  obtained  from  the 
leaf  fibres  of  the  raphia  palm,  one  of  the  most 
useful  jungle  trees.  Close  to  the  N'ginda  is  a  stream 
surrounded  by  extensive  raphia  swamps,  so  I  took 
the  opportunity  of  making  accurate  measurements 
of  the  fronds,  concerning  the  length  of  which  I  had 
heard  the  most  diverse  estimates.  I  offered  a  reward 
for  the  longest  frond ;  my  "  boys  "  scattered  them- 
selves in  the  swamp,  and  soon  returned  bearing  huge 
leaves,  each  of  which  required  two  or  three  men  to 
carry  it.  None  measured  less  than  fifty  feet,  while 
the  largest  was  sixty-four  feet  in  length.    (Illus  118.) 

On  the  2nd  of  February  I  left  N'ginda,  marching 
in  the  shade  of  a  splendid  forest  of  tall  trees,  amongst 
which  were  many  flowering  Monodoras.  This  tree,  when 
in  blossom,  cannot  be  passed  by  unnoticed,  for  the 
strong  scent  diffused  by  the  large  orchid-like  flowers 
calls  the  traveller's  attention  to  their  presence.  It 
is  the  sweetest  floral  perfume  that  I  have  ever  come 
across,  but  Uke  all  scents  is  difficult  to  describe.  If 
it  could  be  extracted  it  would  certainly  afford  a  delight- 
fully fragrant  perfume. 

I  was  interested  to  see  how  frequently  and  how 
suddenly  the  jungle  changed  its  character.  Near  the 
little  village  of  Odjimo  there  are  wide  stretches  covered 
with  the  stately  Macrolohium  Dewevrei.  Probably 
some  special  conditions  favour  the  growth  of  this 
particular  tree,  but  apparently  the  dryness  or  moisture 
of  the  soil  have  nothing  to  do  with  it.  There  is  some- 
thing very  restful  and  imposing  about  this  forest  of 
great,  regular  trunks,  with  the  scanty  underwood, 
the  almost  complete  absence  of  lianas,  and  the  smooth 
carpet  of   fallen  leaves.    It  reminded  me  somewhat 


116.   Drooping  net  fungus  (Dictyophora). 


117.  Women's  house  in  a  Bangandu  village. 


118.    Raffia  plume,  over  22  yards  long,  near  Nginda.  x 


1 

1 

'^^ntf^i 

o 

6 

N 

73 


a, 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  YUKADUMA  125 

of  a  forest  of  oaks,  although  on  closer  examination 
the  huge  pentate  leaves  dispelled  the  illusion. 

We  spent  a  restless  night  at  Odjimo.  One  of  my 
men,  whom  I  had  sent  out  to  hunt  antelopes,  declared 
that  at  nightfall  he  had  been  attacked  by  a  gorilla, 
and  that  he  had  wounded  it.  Some  of  the  bearers 
set  out  in  search  of  the  animal  with  lanterns  and  torches, 
but  returned  empty-handed  after  a  prolonged  absence. 
Meanwhile  an  army  of  driver  ants  had  taken  possession 
of  their  deserted  quarters.  The  result  was  a  nocturnal 
"  ant-fight,"  which  excited  the  whole  village,  and  it 
was  long  after  midnight  before  the  vicious  insects  beat 
a  retreat. 

Our  next  stopping-place  was  the  large  village 
Djimbuli-Mapo,  the  importance  of  which  is  evidenced 
by  the  presence  of  four  "  banyos,"  as  the  block-houses 
built  of  durable  little  tree  trunks  are  called.  These 
sohd  forts  are  skilfully  erected  on  rising  ground,  so  that 
through  the  loop-holes  the  entire  village  street  can 
be  swept  with  rifle  fire.  A  gigantic  Albizzia,  the  curiosity 
of  the  place,  was  about  two  hundred  feet  high,  and 
stood  at  the  edge  of  the  forest,  its  far  stretching  branches 
overshadowing  the  roofs  of  the  village.  Its  dense 
foliage  comprised  a  little  botanical  garden  of  its  own, 
for  an  incredible  profusion  of  orchids,  ferns,  and  other 
epiphytes  could  be  seen  through  the  telescope  growing 
on  the  branches. 

On  the  4th  of  February  we  left  Djimbuli,  and  entered 
the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  Bangandu  country. 
The  beauty  of  the  scenery  is  due  to  a  definite  alterna- 
tion of  hills  and  valleys,  although  the  difference  of 
level  is  nowhere  very  great.  Marching  in  the  shade 
of  the  forest,  my  caravan  toiled  up  the  ascent  to  the 
hill  on  which  the  village  of  Boenga  stands. 


126      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

I  had  heard  a  good  deal  of  high-lymg  Boenga  from 
Mildbraed's  letters  as  well  as  from  other  sources,  but 
after  my  long  sojourn  in  the  plains,  I  was  surprised 
once  more  to  stand  on  an  eminence  that  might  be 
dignified  with  the  name  of  mountain,  though  it  is 
scarcely  three  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
Bumba.  Boenga  is  one  of  the  few  spots  whence  a 
view  over  the  surrounding  forest  land  can  be  obtained. 

I  pursued  my  ethnographical  studies  most  success- 
fully during  my  stay  in  Boenga.  The  wily  old  chief, 
a  typical  village  potentate,  suppUed  me  with  valuable 
data,  and  I  gathered  that  the  displacement  of  the 
aborigines  by  the  advance  of  the  Bangandus  into  the 
Ssanga-Djah  triangle  was  of  recent  date,  having  taken 
place  within  the  last  few  decades. 

In  N'ginda  I  had  already  noticed  Bangandu  men, 
whose  peculiar  dress,  consisting  of  thick  raphia-fibre 
skirts,  resembled  that  worn  by  the  Marshall  islanders. 
(Illus.  129.)  The  natives  had  adopted  this  cool  costume 
after  migrating  into  the  jungle,  in  place  of  their  hot 
and  unhealthy  bark  skirts.  This  shows  how  readily  the 
Bangandus  adapt  themselves  to  their  new  surround- 
ings. It  also  illustrates  the  difficulties  encountered  by 
the  ethnographer  owing  to  the  common-sense  attitude 
of  the  negro,  and  the  absence  of  foolish  sentiment  on 
his  part,  in  adopting  any  new  thing  which  appears 
to  him  to  be  an  improvement. 

Our  next  stopping-place,  Kumilla,  is  a  village  more 
picturesque  even  than  Boenga.  It  stands  on  a  hill 
about  three  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Lokomo 
at  its  junction  with  the  Bumba,  and  affords  a  magnifi- 
cent view  over  the  surrounding  wooded  country. 

Shortly  before  my  arrival  a  great  circumcision  festival 
had  taken  place,  traces  of  which  remained  in  the  young 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  YUKADmiA  127 

trees  driven  into  the  ground  in  the  village  street  in 
order  to  form  a  stand  for  the  spectators.  Unfortunately 
the  distrust  of  the  Bangandus  increased  the  difficul- 
ties of  my  investigations  with  regard  to  this  somewhat 
deUcate  matter,  and  what  I  was  told  sounded  too 
fantastic  to  be  true.  It  was  not  until  I  reached  the 
frontier  of  the  Bangandu  country  that  I  stumbled 
by  accident  on  the  desired  information. 

It  was  in  Kumilla  that  I  saw  in  use  for  the  first  time 
a  weapon  that  I  had  already  several  times  observed 
in  the  hands  of  some  of  the  Bangandu  men,  namely, 
the  cross-bow.    (lUus.  126,  127.) 

Opinions  differ  as  to  the  manner  in  which  William 
Tell's  historic  weapon  found  its  way  into  the  Bangandu 
country.  The  fact  remains  that  it  is  used  by  several 
hunting  tribes  and  by  the  natives  of  the  Soudan  who 
have  migrated  south  into  the  jungle,  whereas  amongst 
the  Mi-Ssangas,  for  example,  it  is  unknown. 

The  natives  are  very  skilful  in  the  use  of  the  cross- 
bow. The  animals  which  they  kill  with  its  short 
arrows  are  those  inhabiting  the  tree-tops,  such  as 
monkeys  and  birds.  Nothing  is  done  to  the  arrows 
used  for  killing  birds,  but  for  shooting  monkeys,  they 
are  invariably  dipped  in  strophanthus  juice,  a  poison 
which  kills  them  almost  instantaneously.  Some  of 
the  Kumilla  crossbow-men  displayed  their  skill  to  me. 
Their  arrows  are  never  poisoned,  as  they  are  used  only 
against  birds.  They  are  forbidden  to  kill  monkeys, 
these  animals  being  regarded  as  sacred  to  the  dead. 

The  worship  of  their  ancestors  by  the  Bangandus 
is  one  of  the  few  matters  not  governed  by  practical 
considerations,  and  the  same  appHes  to  every- 
thing that  concerns  death.  Like  the  Mi-Ssangas, 
the   Bangandus   practise   very   elaborate   burial   cere- 


128      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

monies,  which  are  in  fact  almost  universal  in  the  South 
Cameroons,  especially  on  the  occasion  of  a  chief's 
death.  It  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  learn  anything 
about  the  formalities  that  take  place,  everything 
being  conducted  with  the  utmost  secrecy ;  conse- 
quently the  suspicion  that  cannibalism  is  practised 
as  one  of  the  burial  rites  cannot  be  excluded.  Amongst 
the  Bangandus — as  also  in  isolated  cases  amongst 
the  Mi-Ssangas,  and  invariably  amongst  the  Kuna- 
bembes — important  personages  are  laid  to  rest  in 
hollow  trees,  or  in  the  natural  niches  between  two  large 
tree  roots.  This  was  openly  admitted  to  me,  and  yet 
I  have  never  succeeded  in  discovering  any  of  these 
tree-graves  in  the  jungle. 

As  a  matter  of  fact  these  so-called  burial  places  of 
the  chiefs  are  indicated  by  means  of  triangular  clearances 
in  the  underwood ;  one  side  of  the  triangle  coinciding 
with  the  road,  while  the  vertex  points  towards  the  grave. 
But  since  the  graves  are  not  discoverable,  it  may 
be  assumed  that  the  triangles  are  intentionally  mis- 
leading, in  order  to  prevent  unnecessary  intrusion 
by  Europeans.  This  suspicion  was  strengthened  by 
what  my  Kunabembe  "  boy  "  told  me  on  this  subject. 
As  a  rule  these  triangular  places  are  covered  on  the 
side  facing  the  road  by  a  hunting  net,  or  else  by  a 
curtain  made  of  raphia  fibre,  whilst  along  the  base 
of  the  triangle  a  liana  is  stretched,  with  pieces  of  wood 
knotted  into  it  at  intervals,  one  for  every  enemy  killed 
by  the  deceased.     (lUus.  131.) 

I  obtained  a  great  deal  of  information  respecting 
the  Bangandus  at  Peum,  the  last  village  belonging 
to  this  tribe,  as  I  was  obliged  to  spend  a  week  here 
in  order  to  enable  Mildbraed  to  go  on  ahead.  He 
had  already  spent  several  days  in  the  so-called  Bange 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  YUKADUMA  129 

jungle,  which  is  separated  from  Peum  by  the  Lokomo 
River.  This  was  the  first  "  dead  "  stretch  of  jungle 
through  which  we  had  to  pass,  that  is  to  say,  it  was 
an  absolutely  deserted  district  in  which  it  was  impos- 
sible, even  by  forced  marches,  to  reach  any  human 
habitation  in  one  day.  No  one  has  described  these 
"  dead  "  stages  so  graphically  as  Stanley,  and  when 
they  extend  over  several  days'  march  they  constitute 
a  serious  obstacle  necessitating  the  carrying  of  large 
supplies  of  provisions. 

The  energetic  Governor  of  Molundu  was,  therefore, 
rendering  a  real  service  to  travellers  when  he  began, 
in  spite  of  vigorous  protests  on  the  part  of  the  natives, 
to  forcibly  populate  these  deserted  districts.  But 
this  kind  of  thing  can  only  be  done  gradually,  and  at 
the  time  of  our  travels,  the  new  settlements  were  not 
sufficiently  advanced  to  supply  us  with  food. 

During  my  stay  in  Peum  I  was  able,  in  a  totally 
unexpected  manner,  to  enrich  my  store  of  knowledge 
respecting  the  Bangandus.  One  of  the  chief's  wives 
was  suffering  from  such  severe  rheumatic  pains  that 
her  screams  kept  the  whole  village  awake  every  night. 
Partly,  I  must  confess,  from  selfish  motives,  I  gave 
her  some  powerful  ointment  that  I  happened  to  have 
with  me,  and  which  cured  her  of  her  pains.  Her 
husband,  who  had  previously  shown  himself  very 
reserved,  became  exceedingly  friendly,  and  helped 
me  in  my  work  in  every  possible  way. 

When  once  their  distrust  was  overcome,  the  villagers 
soon  got  over  their  shyness,  but  they  never  became 
importunate,  as  is  so  often  the  case  amongst  natives. 
The  children  played  outside  my  tent  with  the  same 
iimocent  high  spirits  as  if  there  were  no  white  man 
in  the  village.    In  the  evening  I  often  took  a  pleasure 


130      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

in  watching  the  boys  and  girls  romping  in  the  moon- 
light, sometimes  accompanying  their  games  with  merry 
songs.    (Illus.  135.) 

I  was  surprised  to  see  how  much  their  games  resembled 
those  of  European  children,  though  of  course  they 
were  adapted  to  African  conditions.  When  the  boys 
and  girls  were  playing  together  the  tendencies  of  their 
sexes  were  clearly  defined,  the  boys  rushing  about 
in  little  carts  that  they  had  constructed  for  themselves, 
and  the  girls  amusing  themselves  with  their  dolls. 
The  dolls  were  the  simplest  that  can  be  imagined, 
consisting  merely  of  a  large  block  of  the  juicy  banana 
stalk,  which  the  girls  fastened  to  their  waists  with  a 
string. 

I  shall  always  retain  the  most  pleasant  recollections 
of  my  visit  to  Peum,  where  I  spent  many  happy  hours 
amongst  the  merry  children  of  Nature.  On  the  even- 
ing that  preceded  my  departure  my  tent  was  filled 
with  natives — men,  women,  and  children — all  anxious  to 
see  the  photographs  that  I  had  taken  of  them.  When 
they  had  made  out  the  figures  of  the  photographs, 
and  recognised  a  familiar  face,  they  went  into  fits  of 
laughter,  as  if  it  were  a  great  joke,  and  my  tent  resounded 
with  "  Olis  "  and  "  Ahs  "  of  amazement.  No  display 
of  my  photographs  has  ever  ui  all  my  Ufe  received  such 
an  enthusiastic  reception  as  by  these  simple  people. 

I  would  wilHngly  have  stayed  longer  in  this  charming 
village,  but  here,  as  in  many  other  places  in  the  course 
of  my  travels,  the  difficulties  of  feeding  my  bearers 
forced  me  to  push  on.  On  the  morning  of  the  14th 
of  March  my  bearers,  who  in  the  meantime  had  carried 
Mildbraed's  baggage  one  stage  fiu-ther,  took  up  my 
loads,  and  scrambled  down  the  steep  incline  to  the 
Lokomo   River.      We   crossed  the  bridge,   consisting 


124.    Bangandu  village. 


125.    Plantation  N'gusi  in  the  primaeval  forest. 


126.  Dangandu  bending  his  crossbow.     127.  Dangandu  crossbowman. 


^^^pl 

■ '  ^y/f  ^ 

^^^^H 

I       1 

flwll  i    ^ 

HMHII 

Bl'llffl 

t 

Ilk  Ml'lii! 

■ 

i 

128.    Dangandu  at  the  loom. 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  YUKADUMA  131 

of  a  fallen  tree,  and  then  pushed  on  into  the  dark 
glades  of  the  uninhabited  jungle,  which  was  to  afford 
us  shelter  for  the  next  three  days.    (lUus.  133.) 

Meanwhile,  in  spite  of  occasional  showers,  the  dry 
season  had  set  in,  and  the  vast  forest,  extending  over 
many  miles  of  deserted  country,  had  a  gloomy  and 
Hfeless  appearance.  Not  a  bird,  not  even  an  insect, 
was  to  be  seen.  Its  dark  green  depths,  against  which 
the  tall,  straight  stems  of  the  Triplochiton  (illus.  138), 
the  Piptadenia  africana,  and  other  gigantic  trees 
stood  out  clearly,  maintained  a  mysterious  and  im- 
pressive silence. 

My  colleague  had  left  traces  of  his  activity  in  the 
shape  of  empty  cartridges  and  large  flowering  branches 
lying  here  and  there  on  the  ground,  which  gave  evidence 
of  the  battles  he  had  fought  with  the  tall  trees  and 
lianas. 

The  jungle  affords  a  delightfid  camping  ground 
provided  the  season  is  favoiu-able,  and  provided  a 
suitable  spot  is  selected.  This  is  not  always  an  easy 
matter,  for  apart  from  the  necessity  of  being  near  a 
sufficient  water  supply,  the  traveller  must  beware  of 
pitching  his  tent  under  a  tree  whose  dead  branches 
may  prove  dangerous.  It  is  generally  necessary  to 
make  a  more  or  less  extensive  clearance.  But  even 
with  these  disadvantages  the  forest  is  preferable  to 
a  village  street  as  a  camping  ground.  In  the  villages 
there  is  always  a  danger  of  being  tormented  by 
mosquitoes  or  sand-flies,  there  is  little  shade  from 
the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  and  one's  work  is  con- 
tinually interrupted  by  endless  palaver  with  the 
negroes. 

My  first  night  in  the  Bange  jungle  was  the  first  I  had 
spent  in  the  forest  for  several  years,  and  I  surrendered 


132      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

myself  to  the  enjoyment  of  the  wonderful  and  awe- 
inspiring  solitude.  My  bearers  were  in  the  highest 
spirits,  for  one  of  the  hunters  had  killed  a  small  ante- 
lope, and  they  sang  and  danced  merrily.  The  blue 
smoke  of  the  glowing  camp  fire  rose  in  misty  spirals 
and  disappeared  between  the  tree-tops  in  the  deepening 
twilight.  The  tropical  night  soon  wrapped  everything 
in  darkness,  and  ushered  in  the  myriad  insect  singers, 
who  kept  silence  during  the  day  and  began  their 
concert  only  at  dusk.  The  songs  of  my  carriers  gradu- 
ally subsided,  until  at  last  they  ceased  altogether. 

Everything  lay  wrapped  in  sleep  when  the  moon 
rose  and  pierced  the  foliage  screen  above  me.  The 
air  was  cool,  almost  cold,  and  I  shivered  as  I  wrapped 
myself  in  my  rugs.  It  was  the  coldest  night  that  we 
had  yet  experienced,  though  the  thermometer  stood 
at  63°  F.,  which  may  seem  warm  to  Europeans  at  home, 
but  was  chilly  for  anyone  accustomed  to  the  tropics. 
We  were  cold  and  shivering  when  we  set  out  soon 
after  sunrise. 

The  length  of  the  day's  march  in  the  jungle  depends 
even  more  than  in  inhabited  districts,  on  the  situation 
of  the  pre-arranged  camping  places,  for  the  traveller 
must  carefully  apportion  his  stock  of  provisions,  and 
is  well  advised  to  make  an  early  start.  The  places 
suitable  for  a  camp  may  be  recognized  by  the  ashes 
of  former  camp  fires,  for  in  a  country  which  is  so  rich 
in  india-rubber,  the  forest  paths  are  more  frequented 
than  might  be  supposed. 

The  two  settlements  recently  established  in  the 
Bange  forest  by  order  of  the  authorities  at  Molundu 
afforded  a  pleasant  break  in  the  monotony  of  the 
jungle,  though  they  gave  evidence  of  the  great  difficul- 
ties that  had  to  be  overcome.    Even  in  the  tropics 


3 

■a 
c 
re 


CQ 


130.    Mausoleum  in  the  village  of  Yukaduma. 


131.   Burial  place  of  a  Dangandu  chief  near  Kumilla. 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  YUKADUMA  133 

it  takes  a  certain  time  for  the  plantations  to  bear 
fruit,  and  the  natives  do  not  see  the  object  of  their 
appointed  task  and  naturally  dislike  the  trouble 
of  fetching  all  their  provisions  from  a  distance  for  a 
whole  year. 

On  reaching  the  Bange  River  we  left  the  "  dead  " 
forest  zone  behind,  and  after  crossing  with  some  diffi- 
culty the  so-called  Bange  bridge,  which  consists  merely 
of  a  very  slippery  tree  trunk,  we  encamped  on  the  steep 
bank  of  the  Bumba  River  close  to  a  factory  belonging 
to  the  South  Cameroon  Company. 

In  the  factory  manager's  house,  I  found  Mildbraed, 
whom  I  had  heard  botanising  that  same  morning. 
He  was  surrounded  by  a  mountain  of  botanical  presses, 
full  of  forest  flowers.  He  decided,  however,  to  return 
for  a  few  days  to  a  most  promising  part  of  the  Bange 
forest,  and  this  gave  me  time  to  visit  the  neighbouring 
village,  Bange,  the  birthplace  of  my  "  boy "  Musa, 
whose  countrymen  were  the  notorious  Kunabembes. 

Anyone  endeavouring  to  find  his  way  by  the  map 
is  not  likely  to  be  successful,  for  the  inhabitants  of  the 
South-East  Cameroons  are  continually  moving  about, 
so  that  even  the  best  maps  are  soon  out  of  date.  It 
ought  to  be  one  of  the  most  important  duties  of  the 
authorities  to  accustom  the  natives  to  remain  in  their 
settlements.  The  present  system  of  cultivating  new 
forest  districts  every  few  years,  and  abandoning  the 
old  plantations,  is  very  wasteful,  and  results  in  the 
irrevocable  destruction  of  much  valuable  property. 

Even  the  village  in  which  Musa  had  first  seen  the 
light  of  day  was  no  longer  in  the  place  laid  down  for 
it  in  the  map.  "  Massa,  them  town  I  be  born  live 
now  for  some  other  place,"  he  remarked  in  his  pigeon 
English,  as  we  set  off  in  the  direction  of  his  "  town," 


134   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

which  proved  to  be  three  or  four  miles  further  west 
than  it  should  have  been  according  to  the  map.  As 
we  entered  the  village,  I  was  amused  to  see  the  airs 
that  Musa  gave  himself,  as  he  swaggered  along  in  a 
brand-new  khaki  uniform,  his  cap  perched  on  the  side 
of  his  head,  his  rifle  on  his  shoulder,  and  evidently 
thinking  himself  a  very  "  big  man."  Nothing  would 
have  induced  him  to  forego  this  inspiring  moment, 
when  he  made  a  triumphal  entry  into  his  native 
village. 

After  all  that  Musa  had  told  me  about  his  fellow- 
countrymen,  I  was  agreeably  surprised  at  the  peaceful 
appearance  of  the  Bange  villagers.  Naked  children 
played  with  whips  and  tops  in  the  clean  village  street, 
whilst  the  women  and  girls,  adorned  with  heavy  brass 
necklets,  were  returning  from  their  work  in  the  fields. 
(lUus.  140.)  They  wore  bunches  of  scarlet  blossoms, 
and  appeared  to  be  in  high  spirits.  And  yet  it  is 
these  Kunabembes  who  practise  the  most  revolting 
form  of  cannibalism,  or  at  any  rate  did  practise  it  until 
quite  recently.  Men  who  were  on  friendly  terms  used 
to  give  one  another  their  parents  in  exchange,  for 
cannibal  purposes,  as  soon  as  they  had  grown  old  and 
weak,  and  were  useless  for  an3rthing  else.  I  had  heard 
this  barbarous  custom  repeatedly  ascribed  to  the 
Kunabembes,  but  could  not  bring  myself  to  believe 
such  an  accusation,  until  it  was  confirmed  by  Musa. 

On  the  19th  of  February  I  continued  my  journey 
north.  At  first  the  path  led  through  dense  under- 
wood, which  obHged  us  to  stoop  almost  continuously. 
But  in  a  short  time  we  came  to  the  easiest  and  most 
pleasant  path  that  I  have  ever  seen  in  all  my  Cameroon 
wanderings. 

The   two   adjoining   villages,   IMinyass   and   Kungo, 


132.   Entrance  to  the  place  of  assembly  of  the  newly  circumcised 
near  a  Bangandu  village. 


133.   In  the  Bangi  forest. 


134 


134.    Pygmy  hut  with  doorway  only  half  a  yard  high. 


135 


135.    Pose  of  children  for  play. 


136.   The  corpse  of  the  chief  Djaolo  in  Digondji  lying  in  state. 
137.    Bokari  woman  with  balloon  cap  and  cock's  tail. 


I 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  YUKADUMA  135 

in  which  we  encamped  on  the  19th  of  February,  made 
a  very  pleasing  impression.  Like  all  the  villages 
through  which  we  had  passed,  they  consisted  of  a 
double  row  of  houses,  separated  by  a  straight  and 
well-kept  street.  The  houses  were  built  close  together, 
so  that  they  formed  one  continuous  building  under 
one  long  roof.  The  wealth  of  the  inhabitants,  probably 
due  in  part  to  the  recent  rise  in  the  price  of  rubber, 
was  evidenced  by  the  size  and  weight  of  the  brass 
necklets  worn  by  the  women.  It  was  very  difficult 
to  acquire  any  interesting  ethnographical  specimens, 
for  with  so  many  possibilities  of  earning  money  the 
Kunabembes  had  no  use  for  my  one  or  two  mark  pieces, 
or  for  my  poor  exchange  wares.  However,  on  the 
second  day,  with  Musa's  help,  I  was  able  to  buy  at  a 
heavy  price  a  few  of  the  richly  engraved  necklets  and 
anklets.  They  are  worth  about  forty  or  fifty  shillings 
of  our  money,  and  are  circulated  as  currency  in  the 
purchase  of  wives.  I  was  obliged  to  give  the  chieftain 
of  Kungo  a  complete  khaki  outfit,  and  also  to  fulfil 
his  dearest  wish,  which  was  to  possess  a  pair  of  spectacles. 
He  certainly  looked  very  dignified  in  his  large  spectacles 
made  of  beautiful  blue  window-glass,  and  he  felt  that 
he  now  entirely  resembled  a  white  man. 

The  natives  are  spoiled  by  the  attempts  of  the  various 
rubber  firms  to  outbid  one  another.  At  present  there 
is  plenty  of  india-rubber  in  the  South-East  Cameroons, 
but  the  profusion  of  hickxias  will  not  long  survive 
the  reckless  tapping  of  the  natives. 

As  I  was  about  to  encamp  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  village  of  Dumba,  the  chiefs  of  Dumba  and 
Akamayong  came  to  meet  me.  One  of  them  was 
attired  in  French  artillery  trousers,  and  the  other  in 
khaki  breeches ;    both  of  them  wore  white  coats,  and 


1S6   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

irreproachable  brown  shoes — much  too  tight  of  course — 
and  gaiters.  The  Dumba  "  king  "  wore  a  sun  helmet 
covered  with  imitation  leopard  skin.  Their  appearance 
showed  how  much  the  india-rubber  traders  have 
changed  the  habits  of  these  savages  during  the  last 
few  years.  Some  of  my  "  boys  "  were  overcome  by 
the  exceedingly  comical  aspect  of  these  two  victims 
of  European  civilisation,  here  in  the  middle  of  the 
jungle,  and  they  greeted  the  village  rulers  with  a 
roar  of  laughter.  I  was  obliged  to  reprove  them,  as 
I  did  not  wish  to  offend  the  chiefs. 

My  "  boys  "  had  carefully  pitched  my  tent  close 
to  an  Afrostyrax  lepidophylla,  whose  penetrating  odour 
of  garlic  affected  my  nose  in  the  most  painful  fashion, 
and  entirely  spoiled  the  beauty  of  the  spot.  The 
natives,  however,  are  very  fond  of  the  smell  of  this  tree, 
and  they  even  use  the  bark  to  flavour  their  soup. 

In  the  forest  near  Akamayong  there  is  a  huge  tomb 
over  the  grave  of  a  former  chief.  A  clearance  several 
hundred  yards  square  has  been  made  round  the  grave, 
and  the  trees  are  covered  with  stripes  of  red  paint. 
The  deceased  must  have  been  a  great  hero,  for  there 
were  no  less  than  thirty-eight  knots  in  the  liana,  showing 
that  he  had  killed  thirty-eight  enemies,  some  of  whom, 
according  to  the  good  old  Kunaberabe  fashion,  he  had 
no  doubt  cooked  and  assimilated. 

In  the  village  of  N'kung,  our  last  stopping-place 
before  reaching  Yukaduma,  I  made  the  acquaintance 
of  the  chief  Dogelumpum,  the  most  interesting  per- 
sonage in  the  whole  district,  who  was  held  in  high 
esteem  because  he  could  with  impunity  allow  the  most 
poisonous  snakes  to  bite  him.  I  was  very  anxious  to 
meet  this  man,  who  had  been  described  to  me  in 
Molundu  as  an   arrant    rogue,  and   I  was    somewhat 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  YUKADUMA  137 

disappointed  when  a  small,  delicate-looking  negro  was 
presented  to  me  as  the  famous  snake-charmer.  Many 
times  I  entreated  him  to  display  his  skill  to  me,  and 
at  last,  in  my  presence,  he  allowed  a  medium-sized 
poisonous  tree-snake  to  bite  him  in  the  finger.  He 
assured  me  that  he  had  tried  in  vain  to  procure  a 
cobra  or  a  hooded  viper.  This  was,  of  course,  only 
an  excuse,  for  it  is  quite  possible  that  a  native  who 
has  been  repeatedly  bitten  by  one  of  the  smaller 
poisonous  snakes  may  eventually  become  to  a  certain 
extent  immune,  but  I  very  much  doubt  whether  the 
man  would  placidly  have  permitted  a  large  cobra  to 
bite  him. 

Soon  after  passing  a  small  ravine,  in  which  for  the 
first  time  I  found  some  tree  ferns,  we  once  more  entered 
the  jungle,  and  we  had  to  march  several  hours  before 
we  caught  sight  of  the  outskirts  of  Yukaduma.  Beside 
the  N'yui  River  is  a  clearance  on  which  stands  a  large 
bark  house  and  several  sheds,  from  which  the  wind 
wafted  the  familiar  smell  of  india-rubber.  This  is  the 
Yukaduma  factory  belonging  to  the  South  Cameroon 
Company.  I  was  hospitably  received  by  the  manager, 
Herr  Graf,  who  had  not  seen  a  white  man  for  many 
months. 

The  next  morning  the  bearers  returned  to  fetch 
Mildbraed's  baggage,  and  I  had  plenty  of  time  to 
sort  and  pack  my  specimens  and  prepare  for  the  next 
stage  of  our  journey  :  our  eagerly  anticipated  excursion 
into  the  prairie  land. 


CHAPTER  XXII 

YUKADUMA   TO    ASSOBAM 

Meanwhile  the  lesser  rainy  season  was  evidently 
approaching.  We  experienced  the  first  appreciable 
downfall  whilst  we  were  encamped  near  the  Bange 
River,  and  from  the  end  of  February  onwards,  violent 
rainstorms  fell  at  shorter  and  shorter  intervals,  satura- 
ting the  parched  ground.  The  thunderstorms,  too, 
that  accompanied  the  rain,  became  more  and  more 
frequent,  whilst  about  the  middle  of  March  tornadoes 
came  up  from  the  south-east,  followed  by  continuous 
sheets  of  lightning,  truly  tropical  in  their  brilliance. 

The  effect  of  the  rain  soon  made  itself  felt.  The 
first  obvious  result  was  the  increasing  number  of 
insects,  some  of  them  harmless  and  beautiful ;  others, 
such  as  the  vicious  sand-flies  {Simulia),  spent  their 
whole  time  in  trying  to  make  our  lives  miserable. 
These  troublesome  torments  of  the  African  tropics, 
against  whose  attacks  the  smallest  meshed  mosquito 
net  is  useless,  probably  came  from  the  pisang  plants 
of  the  neighbouring  village. 

These  luxuriant  and  unusually  productive  planta- 
tions cover  wdde  stretches  of  land  round  the  new  village 
of  Yukaduma,  and  our  hunters  were  consequently 
able  to  indulge  in  their  favourite  fruit,  so  neces- 
sary to  their  well-being.  It  is  "hard  to  say  whether 
the  wonderful  profusion  of  bananas  in  this  neighbour- 
hood is   due  to    the    fertility   of   the   ground,   or  to 

138 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  139 

the  reprehensible  custom  of  continually  moving  the 
plantations,  and  cultivating  only  virgin  soil. 

The  Bumbums,  who  own  these  rich  plantations, 
are  closely  related  to  the  Kunabembes.  They  also 
claimed  to  be  connected  with  the  N'dzimus,  who  live 
near  Lomie,  as  well  as  with  the  tribes  inhabiting  the 
banks  of  the  Lower  Djah  and  Ssanga  Rivers,  so  that  all 
the  tribes  of  the  South-East  Cameroons,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  those  derived  from  the  Soudan,  may  be  included 
in  one  large  family.  It  is  difficult  to  trace  the  origin 
of  many  of  their  customs,  analogous  to  those  of  far 
distant  tribes,  with  which  they  can  have  had  no  possible 
connection.  For  instance,  it  seemed  to  me  very  strange 
to  find  among  the  Bumbums  the  custom  ascribed  by 
Schweinfurth  and  Schubotz  to  the  Mangbettus,  namely, 
that  of  dyeing  their  skin  with  the  juice  of  the  Randia 
malleifera.  Some  of  the  young  people  had  adorned 
their  faces  with  elaborate  and  tasteful  patterns,  and 
the  blue-black  dye  showed  up  well  on  their  brown 
skin. 

While  I  was  getting  ready  for  my  journey  into  the 
prairie,  several  Europeans  arrived  in  Yukaduma. 
Amongst  them  was  a  merchant,  Herr  Funck,  who 
extracted  from  me  a  promise  to  visit  him  in  his  lonely 
factory  at  Momos.  This  promise  I  never  had  cause 
to  regret,  for  this  gentleman  was  of  great  assistance 
to  me  in  my  ethnographical  studies. 

Mildbraed  and  I  were  fortunately  not  obliged  to 
take  all  our  baggage  with  us.  We  left  most  of  our 
loads  in  Herr  Graf's  care,  so  that  our  bearers  were 
now  sufficiently  numerous  to  enable  us  both  to  set 
off  on  the  same  day,  the  15th  of  March. 

Mildbraed  went  straight  to  the  prairie,  whilst  I  made 
a  short  detour  to  visit  Herr  Funck's  factory  at  Momos. 


140      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

I  spent  a  few  days  in  this  comfortable  abode,  which 
was  so  charming  that  I  could  readily  understand  its 
owner  having  no  desire  to  return  to  Europe.  He 
entered  into  the  thoughts  and  feelings  of  the  natives, 
just  as  he  understood  the  beasts  of  the  jungle  that 
he  had  tamed,  and  that  followed  him  everywhere. 
The  Pygmies  of  the  neighbourhood  were  specially 
attached  to  him,  and  endeavoured  to  express  their 
affection  by  bringing  him  large  supplies  of  india-rubber. 

It  was  here  in  Momos  that  I  became  intimately 
acquainted  with  this  interesting  race.  The  first  time 
that  I  visited  their  camp  in  the  jungle,  the  little  people 
seemed  somewhat  nervous,  but  as  soon  as  my  com- 
panion had  assured  them  that  they  might  trust  me 
as  completely  as  they  trusted  him,  they  got  over  their 
timidity  and  were  as  affable  and  friendly  as  possible. 
They  answered  all  my  questions,  and  demonstrated 
to  me  their  original  and  pleasing  dances. 

These  dances  differed  from  any  I  have  ever  seen 
before  or  since.  They  were  round  dances  in  which 
men,  women,  and  children  took  part  in  turns,  moving 
in  circles  with  measured  tread,  and  imitating  by 
grotesque  evolutions  the  paces  of  the  various  forest 
animals.  Amongst  the  Bantus,  on  the  other  hand, 
one  or  two  dancers  perform  in  the  middle  of  a  ring 
of  spectators.  The  round  dances  of  the  Pygmies 
recalled  those  of  certain  South  African  tribes. 

As  a  special  mark  of  their  confidence  towards  my 
host,  the  Pygmies  occasionally  spent  the  night  at 
the  factory.  This  was  the  case  one  evening  when 
we  sat  with  them  by  lamplight  round  a  long  table  in 
the  comfortable  verandah.  It  was  wretched  weather, 
and  we  could  hear  the  rain  descending  in  torrents. 
The  little  men  turned  over  the  pages  of  some  illustrated 


138.   Stem  of  Triplochiton  in  the  Bangi  forest. 


139.    Kunabembe  village  in  recently  cleared  forest. 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  141 

magazines,  and  by  their  frequent  questions,  betrayed 
a  lively  interest  in  European  affairs.  In  return  for 
my  information  they  satisfied  my  curiosity  with  regard 
to  some  of  their  customs,  and  in  this  way  I  was  able 
to  obtain  reliable  details  respecting  their  mode  of 
hunting.  As  soon  as  the  conversation  turned  on 
this  subject,  occupjdng  as  it  does  all  their  thoughts 
and  aspirations,  they  became  very  animated ;  their 
gestures  bespoke  the  enthusiastic  hunter,  and  they 
were  indefatigable  in  their  efforts  to  make  us  under- 
stand their  methods  of  stalking  elephants.  They 
confirmed  the  statement  that  I  had  heard  in  Molundu, 
that  the  spear  is  their  only  hunting  weapon.  They 
must  certainly  be  possessed  of  extraordinary  skill, 
physical  endurance,  coolness,  and  presence  of  mind  in 
order  to  get  within  striking  distance  of  the  elephant. 
After  wounding  him  in  the  body  with  their  iron  weapon, 
they  follow  him  until  he  collapses.  The  Pygmies  of 
the  South  Cameroon s  never  make  use  of  bows  and 
arrows;  they  never  lay  traps,  dig  pits,  or  employ 
hunting  nets  such  as  are  commonly  used  elsewhere. 
The  only  exception  is  in  the  case  of  the  guinea-fowl, 
which  is  caught  by  means  of  small  pit-falls,  and  the 
armadillo,  or  pilika,  which  they  smoke  out  of  its 
extensive  underground  burrows. 

I  considerably  enlarged  my  vocabulary  of  the  Pygmy 
tongue,  and  convinced  myself  that  my  small  friends 
had  kept  their  language  free  from  foreign  taint.  On 
the  22nd  of  March  I  took  leave  of  this  fascinating 
spot,  since  the  itinerary  that  we  had  drawn  up  in 
Yukaduma  would  not  permit  of  a  longer  visit. 

For  many  reasons  I  looked  forward  with  eager  anti- 
cipation to  the  coming  journey.  In  the  first  place  we 
were  to  traverse  another  wholly  uninhabited  district, 


142      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

which  had  been  described  to  us  as  being  the  richest 
in  gorillas  and  elephants  in  the  whole  country.  Then 
we  were  on  the  look-out  for  some  interesting  volcanic 
formations — lava-fields  as  they  were  called — that  lay 
in  our  path,  and  finally  we  hoped  to  reach  an  ethno- 
graphically  interesting  district,  partly  jungle,  partly 
prairie,  situated  close  to  the  former  Franco-German 
frontier,  where  for  poUtical  and  commercial  reasons 
a  strange  jumble  of  the  most  diverse  races  had  taken 
up  their  abode.  I  had  received  no  news  of  MUdbraed 
since  his  departure,  and  this  made  me  all  the  more 
anxious  to  set  out. 

We  started  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  but  the 
weather  was  not  very  promising.  The  sky  overhead 
was  blue,  but  in  the  West  loomed  a  heavy  bank  of 
clouds,  their  sharply  defined  edges  tipped  with  salmon- 
pink  by  the  morning  sun,  while  in  the  distance  the 
thunder  growled  ominously. 

The  path  was  overhung  with  bushes,  wet  with  the 
heavy  dew,  and  they  struck  us  in  the  face  as  we  passed, 
so  that  in  a  very  few  minutes  we  were  soaked  through. 
There  were  no  bridges,  and  each  of  the  deeply  cut 
water-courses  caused  us  considerable  delay.  Mean- 
while the  clouds,  though  screened  from  sight  by  the 
trees,  were  coming  up  rapidly,  as  evidenced  by  the 
approaching  thunder.  We  were  soon  in  difficulties 
owing  to  our  ignorance  of  the  country,  for  the  two 
men  who  professed  to  know  the  way  led  us  hopelessly 
astray. 

There  was  nothing  to  be  done  but  to  seek  a  guide 
in  the  newly  built  village  of  Saolo,  and  here  we  waited 
for  the  thunderstorm  to  pass  over.  After  much 
bargaining  we  succeeded  in  procuring  a  guide,  but  his 
face  showed  clearly  how  much  he  resented  his  task. 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  143 

I  understood  his  feelings  as  soon  as  we  had  proceeded 
a  hundred  yards,  for  the  path  was  one  of  the  worst 
that  I  have  ever  traversed  in  the  whole  of  Africa. 
We  waded  for  hours  through  mud  and  mire,  feeling 
our  way  step  by  step  with  our  sticks,  and  following 
our  guide  at  a  snail's  pace.  The  latter  was  obliged 
to  cut  his  way  with  a  hunting-knife  through  lianas, 
roots  and  branches,  in  pitch  darkness  and  with  a  sultry 
green-house  temperature. 

Early  in  the  day  we  had  to  cross  the  Bange  River, 
a  most  perilous  undertaking,  as  a  slippery  tree-trunk 
formed  the  only  bridge  over  the  deep  and  raging 
stream.  Towards  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the 
ground  became  so  treacherous  that  it  was  only  by 
making  long  detours  that  we  could  make  any  progress 
at  all.  At  length  we  reached  the  border  of  a  so-called 
prairie,  that  is  to  say,  a  bare  patch  in  the  jungle,  covered 
with  ferns  and  surrounded  by  gigantic  raphia  palms. 
The  ground  was  trampled  by  numerous  elephants 
and  buffaloes,  but  we  were  all  too  exhausted  to  take 
the  least  interest  in  these  exciting  spoors. 

We  encamped  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  prairie, 
and  in  order  to  avoid  catching  cold,  I  helped  to  build 
the  leaf  huts  for  the  bearers  until  my  tent  was  ready. 
Vapour  was  rising  from  the  ground  and  condensing 
on  the  trees.  I  kept  my  tent  tolerably  dry  by  burning 
a  few  candles,  and  fixed  up  lines  on  which  I  hung 
my  clothes  to  dry. 

During  the  night  our  Saolo  guide  took  himself  off, 
leaving  us  to  find  our  way  as  best  we  could  ;  his  defec- 
tion struck  me  as  being  a  bad  advertisement  for  the 
road  that  lay  before  us  in  this  appalling  forest,  and 
my  surmise  proved  correct. 

The  path,  which  was  scarcely  worthy  of  the  name, 


144      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

turned  out  to  be  almost  impassable,  but  we  were  re- 
lieved to  learn  from  two  chance  passers-by  that  we  were 
going  in  the  right  direction.  We  hurried  on  as  fast 
as  possible,  although  we  knew  that  the  eagerly  antici- 
pated "  lava-fields  "  could  not  be  reached  in  less  than 
a  day  and  a  half.  Mildbraed's  tracks  were  visible 
in  two  places,  and  in  the  evening  we  came  to  a  place 
where  he  had  evidently  encamped. 

Although  this  part  of  the  jungle  was  said  to  be  in- 
habited by  gorillas,  we  did  not  see  any  ;  several  times, 
however,  large  animals  could  be  heard  crashing  through 
the  undergrowth,  and  on  two  separate  occasions  elephants 
crossed  our  path,  scattering  the  bearers  right  and  left. 
After  a  long  march,  which  was  rendered  possible  only 
by  cutting  our  way  through  the  bush  with  hunting- 
knives,  we  at  length  struck  the  main  road. 

It  was  a  pleasant  change  to  be  once  more  treading 
a  beaten  track,  and  we  hurried  along  like  horses  whose 
heads  are  turned  towards  home. 

When  at  last  we  reached  the  famous  "  lava-fields," 
I  felt  that  Herr  Koch  had  by  no  means  exaggerated 
their  beauty.  A  large  stone-covered  plain,  partly 
hidden  by  turf,  resembling  an  English  park  or  golf 
course,  conjured  up  a  scene  of  peculiar  charm.  The 
rock,  which  certainly  bore  some  resemblance  to  certain 
volcanic  formations,  was  composed  of  the  same  fer- 
ruginous laterite  that  I  had  seen  in  blocks  of  various 
sizes  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Molundu. 

In  the  furthest  corner  of  this  open  space  I  found 
numerous  spoors  of  both  elephants  and  buffaloes.  It 
was  very  late,  close  upon  sunset,  before  the  last  of  the 
carriers  reached  camp. 

Our  next  day's  march  brought  us  to  the  country 
inhabited  by  the  Bidjuks,   one  of  those  tribes  that 


•^^jit^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^u 

^^^lE-.' 

141.   Meadowland  near  Yendi. 


142.    Plantation  near  Yukaduma. 


143.   Aged  Bokari. 


144.    Bokari  village,  near  the  northern  boundary  of  the  forest. 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  145 

formerly  lived  much  further  east,  until  one  day,  weary 
of  the  constant  opportunity  of  French  rubber  merchants, 
they  migrated  with  all  their  goods  and  chattels  into 
German  territory.  We  spent  a  night  in  the  village 
of  Bundji,  before  setting  off  towards  the  Yendi  prairie. 

The  ground  rose  gradually,  until  after  three  hours' 
marching  the  path  became  so  steep  that  I  felt  sure 
we  must  be  nearing  our  destination.  Suddenly  we 
saw  the  light  shining  through  the  branches,  and  leaving 
the  forest  behind  us,  we  stepped  out  on  to  a  wide 
expanse  of  grass.  I  drew  a  deep  breath,  feehng  Uke 
some  one  who  has  long  been  shut  up  in  a  dark  place, 
and  for  the  first  time  sees  once  more  the  light  of  day. 
(lUus.  141.) 

The  dark-green  of  the  forest  contrasted  markedly 
with  the  emerald  hue  of  the  young  grass  that  covered 
the  ground  with  the  fresh  green  of  spring. 

The  short  turf  was  interrupted  by  various  herbs, 
and  by  patches  of  white,  silvery  lichen,  with  here  and 
there  a  pool  of  rain  water. 

This  ideal  pasturage  naturally  offered  great  attractions 
to  wild  animals,  and  one  of  the  hunters  shot  two  splendid 
red  buffaloes.  Among  smaller  animals,  flocks  of  sand- 
pipers flew  up  from  the  vicinity  of  the  pools,  and 
gaudy  swallow-tailed  butterflies  fluttered  hither  and 
thither  amongst  the  fragrant  anona  trees. 

I  pitched  my  tent  on  the  edge  of  the  prairie,  in  the 
shade  of  the  forest,  thus  enjoying  an  ideal  camping 
ground  ;  my  bearers,  however,  being  free  from  "  foohsh 
sentiment,"  preferred  to  take  up  their  abode  in  the 
neighbouring  village  of  Yendi.  Shortly  after  the 
second  buffalo  had  been  shot,  the  chief  of  Yendi, 
dressed  in  the  uniform  of  a  French  dragoon,  came  to 
see  me  on  a  matter  of  business. 


146       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

One  of  his  suite,  who  spoke  a  little  French,  explained 
the  chief's  wishes.  It  turned  out  that  he  wanted 
to  purchase  one  of  the  buffaloes,  and  as  I  had  exhausted 
my  supply  of  ready  money,  we  soon  came  to  terms, 
and  the  chief  counted  out  on  my  table  the  sum  of 
one  hundred  marks,  mostly  in  small  coinage.  I  subse- 
quently learned  that  he  sold  the  meat  to  his  subjects 
at  a  much  higher  price,  for  meat  is  the  most  coveted 
article  in  these  parts,  and  the  natives'  craving  for 
meat  probably  explains  their  cannibalism. 

The  next  day's  march  proved  in  every  way  interesting, 
though  it  rained  in  torrents  and  the  ground  was  very 
slippery.  We  proceeded  for  some  time  on  a  plateau, 
which,  according  to  my  aneroid,  was  2500  feet  high. 

In  Bigondji,  the  next  village,  great  excitement 
reigned  on  account  of  the  death  of  the  chief  Djaolo, 
who,  shortly  before  my  arrival,  had  been  accidentally 
shot  while  gorilla  hunting  by  one  of  his  own  villagers. 
The  official  wailing,  which  on  such  occasions  is  carried 
on  by  the  women,  had  not  yet  begun,  and  the  relatives 
of  the  dead  chief  showed  silent,  but  evidently  genuine 
grief.  His  brother  had  daubed  his  body  in  the  most 
extraordinary  fashion  with  white  paint,  this  being  the 
customary  mourning  colour.  The  grave  had  already 
been  dug  in  the  village,  and  "  lying-in- state  "  in  his 
hut  was  the  poor  fellow  for  whom  everyone  was 
mourning,  and  who  had  shaken  hands  with  Mildbraed 
only  two  days  before. 

The  "  lying-in- state  "  was  a  strange  ceremony.  The 
deceased  was  placed  in  a  sitting  posture  on  a  low  chair, 
with  his  feet  in  two  baskets,  one  inside  the  other. 
His  right  hand  was  suspended  from  the  roof,  his  body 
was  wrapped  in  a  Haussa  mantle,  and  a  large  European 
hat  covered  his  head  and  face.     (lUus.  136.)    His  wives 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  147 

sat  round  him  weeping  quietly,  and  keeping  off  the 
flies  with  fans.  The  author  of  the  disaster  stood  on 
one  side  in  deep  dejection,  apparently  wondering  how 
he  was  to  procure  the  two  oxen  which  he  had  been 
ordered  to  pay  to  atone  for  his  carelessness. 

I  encamped  for  the  night  in  the  village  of  Difolo, 
whence  I  could  see  through  gaps  in  the  forest  far  away 
to  the  West,  and  backwards  towards  the  plateau  that 
I  had  quitted  early  in  the  morning. 

The  bearers'  present  mode  of  carrying  their  loads 
showed  that  we  had  reached  the  prairie  country. 
Whereas  in  marching  through  the  jungle  they  carried 
their  loads  on  their  backs,  with  bent  heads,  here  in  the 
"  grass  land,"  the  men  carried  everything  on  their  heads 
and  consequently  looked  straight  before  them,  while 
their  gait  was  freer  and  more  erect. 

The  attire  of  the  Baya  women  was  most  grotesque, 
especially  their  wonderful  feats  of  hairdressing,  which 
we  had  already  noticed  in  Bigondji.  Even  more 
striking  than  their  coiffure  was  the  only  article  of 
clothing  worn  by  these  women.  It  consisted  of  a 
heart-shaped  bunch  of  leaves  worn  over  the  loins, 
and  suspended  from  the  waist  by  a  cord.  For  un- 
married women  it  was  surmounted  by  a  rotang  cane 
over  a  yard  in  length,  which  protruded  like  a  cock's 
tail,  swinging  so  comically  when  the  wearer  walked, 
that  it  evoked  a  roar  of  laughter  from  my  "  boys." 
(lUus.  137,  147.) 

The  prairie  land  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lau  consists 
of  nothing  but  large,  free  spaces,  dotted  about  in  the 
forest,  obviously  ancient  cultivated  spots,  and  covered 
with  long  grass.  This  long  elephant-grass,  fifteen  to 
twenty  feet  high,  and  disseminating  a  disagreeable 
odour  of  burning,  not  only  shut  out  the  view,  but 


148      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

presented  a  more  impenetrable  wall  than  the  worst 
Phrynium  undergrowth  in  the  jungle.  No  breeze 
reached  the  path,  and  the  sun  blazed  down  upon 
the  heads  of  my  unfortunate  bearers,  accustomed 
as  they  were  to  the  shade  of  the  forest.  It  is  hard 
to  understand  why  this  district  should  have  been  so 
extolled  in  Molundu. 

Not  far  from  Lau  we  were  met  by  the  chief  of  this 
village,  an  energetic  man,  who  spoke  a  little  English 
and  French.  The  clean  and  durable  aspect  of  his 
village  seemed  to  confirm  his  statement  that  it  was 
a  permanent  settlement. 

The  chief  of  Lau  paid  me  several  visits  in  my  camp 
close  to  his  village,  and  imparted  to  me  some  interesting 
facts  regarding  the  secret  society  called  La/>*,which 
is  disseminated  far  and  wide  throughout  the  country. 

The  most  astonishing  thing  connected  with  this 
society  is  its  secret  language,  understood  by  all  mem- 
bers, and  constituting  a  bond  of  union  between  natives 
belonging  to  the  most  diverse  and  often  hostile  tribes. 
A  Labi  member  may  not  kill  his  antagonist  in  battle 
after  the  latter  has  proclaimed  his  membership  by 
means  of  a  few  code  words.  Duku,  a  soldier  who  accom- 
panied me,  belonged  to  this  society,  and  confirmed 
the  statements  of  the  Lau  chief,  adding  that  its  members 
are  found  among  the  Yangheres,  Bokaris,  Bipalos, 
and  Kakas,  as  well  as  among  the  Makas  and  YebekoUes. 

My  impression  that  there  is  no  sharp  boundary 
between  jungle  and  prairie  was  confirmed  by  the  aspect 
of  the  country  through  which  we  marched  in  a  northerly 
direction,  after  leaving  Lau  on  the  31st  of  March. 
Soon  after  quitting  this  village  we  entered  a  beautiful 
primary  forest  of  tall  trees.  As  a  result  of  the  fore- 
going rain,  there  was  a  profusion  of  insect  life  such 


145.    Painted  Yanghere  house. 


146.   Round  hut  on  the  forest  boundary. 


147.   Dokari  woman  with  cock's-tail. 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  149 

as  is  seldom  seen  even  in  the  depths  of  the  jungle. 
The  air  was  alive  with  butterflies  of  the  most  brilliant 
colours,  mostly  of  the  Cymothoe  species,  whilst  on 
the  damp  banks  of  the  streams  fluttered  swarms  of 
glossy  black  swallow-tails  {Papilio  machaon),  with 
yellow,  green,  white,  blue,  and  red  markings.  These 
insects,  together  with  many  other  smaller  varieties, 
eagerly  sucked  up  the  moisture,  paying  but  scant 
attention  to  passers-by.    (Ulus.  120,  122.) 

In  an  ideal  spot  in  the  shady  underwood  I  came 
upon  the  camp  of  a  Frenchman  who,  as  representative 
of  the  "  Haute-Sangha  "  Company,  was  constructing 
a  frontier  road  with  a  view  to  checking  the  migration 
of  natives  into  German  territory.  He  was  accompanied 
by  two  armed  natives  in  uniform,  whom  I  at  first  mistook 
for  soldiers.  A  uniform  makes  a  great  impression  on 
the  native  mind,  and  a  European  accompanied  by 
men  in  uniform  is  sure  of  a  much  better  reception 
by  the  natives  than  a  traveller  who  is  without  this  moral 
support. 

I  had  now  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  three  rival 
parties  in  the  india-rubber  trade,  namely  the  French 
company   officials,   the   EngHsh  and   German  traders 
with  their   black  agents,   outbidding   one  another  in 
their  prices,  and  the  crafty  Haussas,  who  speculate 
on  the  natives'  insatiable  craving  for  meat.    I  used 
to    be    of    opinion   that    the   Kickxia    might  be  pro- 
tected  from   ultimate   extermination   by   strict   laws, 
but  I  now  realised  that  any  effort  in  this  direction 
would  be  labour  lost.    The  day  will  come  when  the 
wild  Kickxia  is  a  thing  of  the  past,  and  in  the  interests 
of  the  natives   and  of  the  agricultural   development 
of    the  country,  one  can  only  say  :    the  sooner  the 
better ! 


150      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  authorities  will  make 
themselves  responsible  for  replacing  the  wild  Kickxias 
by  permanent  plantations. 

From  some  high-lying  houses  in  the  village  of  Dalugene 
I  obtained  for  the  first  time  a  comprehensive  view 
over  the  surrounding  country.  There  was  no  marked 
difference  between  the  "  grass  fields  "  that  lay  before 
me  and  other  prairie  land  that  I  had  seen  elsewhere. 
There  was  a  dearth  of  mountains,  and  the  time  of 
year  was  unfavourable  for  the  growth  of  the  various 
herbs.  I  saw  on  all  sides  nothing  but  flat,  monotonous 
country,  uniformly  covered  with  elephant-grass, 
interrupted  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  water-courses 
by  dark-green  belts  of  trees,  with  here  and  there  a  village 
whose  neutral  tinted  houses  were  scarcely  distinguishable 
from  their  surroundings. 

After  crossing  the  troubled  waters  of  the  Baturi 
River,  on  its  way  to  join  the  Kadei,  I  met  Mildbraed, 
who  had  pitched  his  tent  in  the  long  elephant  grass 
among  the  trees  that  bordered  the  river.  He  had 
been  suffering  from  fever,  and  complained  of  the  in- 
credible dearth  of  flowers  in  these  prairies.  We  agreed 
that  we  would  not  stay  here  long,  especially  as  the 
provisioning  of  our  bearers  was  no  easy  matter. 

Another  inducement  to  hasten  our  departure  lay 
in  the  near  neighbourhood  of  the  large  Kaka  village 
of  Dalugene,  whose  inhabitants  are  the  most  notorious 
cannibals  of  tropical  Africa.  However,  the  long,  wide 
village  street,  as  we  passed  down  it,  was  the  picture 
of  peace  and  quiet.  All  the  energies  of  the  inhabitants 
seemed  to  be  devoted  to  adding  to  their  earnings  by  means 
of  india-rubber.  Two  factories  managed  by  European 
traders  stand  on  the  sunny  hill  on  which  the  village 
is  built,  and  which  is  totally  devoid  of  the  least  particle 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  161 

of  shade.  Haussas  in  richly  embroidered  robes  went  to 
and  fro  with  measured  tread ;  black  traders  belonging 
to  various  European  firms  displayed  invitingly  in 
their  shops  all  kinds  of  European  trifles  likely  to 
attract  the  Kaka  beauties  :  gaudy  handkerchiefs,  blue, 
red,  and  yellow  beads  to  adorn  their  complicated  coiffure, 
and  pencils  of  coloured  glass  to  wear  in  their  pierced 
noses.  Men  squatted  in  front  of  the  houses,  of  whom 
the  older  ones,  mostly  with  long  beards  and  wearing 
Soudanese  robes,  were  skilfully  plaiting  large,  thick 
raphia  fibre  mats  to  hang  on  the  walls  of  the  houses. 
(lUus.  149.)  Others  were  making  beds  of  raphia 
shreds,  each  couch  being  provided  with  a  neck  block 
intended  to  protect  the  elaborately  dressed  hair  of 
the  women,  with  more  regard  for  vanity  than  comfort. 
(Hlus.  150.) 

Even  the  women,  with  their  children  playing  around 
them,  carried  on  their  household  tasks  in  the  street ; 
they  cooked,  made  pots,  and  plaited  strong  wicker 
baskets.  (lUus.  151.)  Here,  too,  I  saw  the  erection  of 
one  of  their  elaborate  coiffures  :  thick  coils  of  carefully 
collected  hair  were  first  made  (illus.  152),  and  fixed 
on  to  the  head  with  little  plaits  of  natural  hair,  gaily 
decorated  with  beads ;  to  protect  the  whole  structure 
it  is  usually  wrapped  in  a  tight,  greased  cloth,  since 
the  coifEure  combines  use  with  beauty  and  serves  as 
a  prop  for  heavy  loads. 

The  following  day  Mildbraed  and  I  decided  to  press 
on  into  the  prairies  in  two  different  directions.  Mild- 
braed set  out  in  the  direction  of  the  Kadei  River, 
and  I  towards  the  N'gamdio  mountain,  near  the 
village  of  New-Molaye.  The  country  through  which  I 
passed  corresponded  on  the  whole  to  that  which  we 
had    traversed    on    our    arrival    in   the  prairie  land, 


152      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

although  in  places  it  offered  more  variety  than  I  had 
anticipated.  The  monotony  of  the  long  elephant 
grass  was  interrupted  at  intervals  by  huge  white  ant 
hills,  a  few  wretched  specimens  of  BorassiLS  palms, 
isolated  thorny  bushes,  or  the  crimson  umbels  of  a  large 
orchid  (Lissochilus).  In  one  enclosed  spot  I  came 
across  some  Soudanese  bushes,  such  as  Anona  senegal- 
ensis,  and  Bauhinia  reticulata,  which  recalled  the  fruit 
gardens  of  Adamaua.  Mildbraed  also  found  these 
plants  while  on  his  way  to  the  Kadei. 

The  village  of  New-Molaye  is  built  on  an  exposed 
hill,  not  quite  as  high  as  the  N'gamdio  mountain, 
which  I  ascended  the  same  afternoon,  in  oppressively 
sultry  weather.  It  proved  to  be  an  uninteresting, 
truncated  cone,  destitute  of  trees  or  shrubs,  and  covered 
with  scanty  elephant  grass.  The  view,  however,  com- 
pensated for  the  fatigue  of  cHmbing,  for  it  extended 
as  far  as  the  hills  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Kadei,  where 
not  the  smallest  hamlet  was  discernible  through  my 
powerful  field-glasses.  Some  of  the  forest  belts  seemed 
to  me  to  be  unusually  wide,  especially  the  one  bordering 
the  Kadei.  On  my  return,  after  walking  through  the 
charred  elephant  grass,  I  must  have  looked  as  black  as 
a  coal-heaver. 

My  camp  was  conveniently  placed  on  the  highest 
part  of  the  village  hill,  in  that  the  breeze  reached  me 
from  every  quarter  and  minimised  the  scorching  heat. 
The  very  next  night,  however,  I  reaHsed  how  thought- 
less I  had  been  in  chosing  such  an  exposed  camping 
ground.  About  midnight  a  thunderstorm  burst  over 
the  village  and  discharged  its  full  fury  over  my  tent. 
It  was  a  most  unpleasant  experience,  as  my  tent-pole 
in  its  exposed  position,  and  with  its  iron  supports, 
acted  as  a  Ughtning  conductor.      By  one  o'clock  the 


J 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  153 

violence  of  the  storm  was  spent,  and  the  atmosphere 
so  much  cooler  that  I  could  breathe  freely.  But 
a  couple  of  hours  later  it  was  as  sultry  as  ever,  and 
in  an  incredibly  short  time  a  second  thunderstorm, 
to  which  the  first  was  but  child's  play,  broke  over  us. 
The  noise  of  the  thunder  resembled  an  uninterrupted 
cannonade,  and  it  was  surprising  that  my  tent  was 
not  struck  by  lightning.  It  was  the  worst  thunder- 
storm that  I  have  ever  experienced  in  the  tropics, 
and  it  was  morning  before  I  could  snatch  a  few  hours' 
rest. 

The  same  afternoon  I  rejoined  Mildbraed,  who  had 
enjoyed  the  thunderstorm  of  the  previous  night  as 
little  as  I  had  done.  He  had  pitched  his  tent  in  the 
forest  belt  near  the  Kadei,  and  the  torrents  of  rain 
had  threatened  to  swamp  the  whole  camp.  He  had 
discovered  nothing  of  any  interest  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  river,  so  that  he  was  quite  willing  to  leave  the 
prairie  country  the  following  day. 

Under  the  circumstances  we  were  glad  to  plunge 
once  more  into  the  jungle,  turning  our  backs  on  the 
grass  land  which  had  proved  so  uninteresting. 

On  the  return  journey  to  Yukaduma,  for  the  first 
stage  of  which  we  had  taken  the  road  with  which 
we  were  already  familiar,  an  adventure  befel  Mildbraed 
which  might  have  had  serious  consequences. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  April  I  had  just  left 
a  small  village  in  the  Bokari  district  when  a  messenger 
came  running  to  me  bearing  a  hurriedly  written  letter 
from  a  trader  named  Maak,  informing  me  that  my 
comrade  had  been  bitten  by  a  poisonous  snake  and 
was  in  danger  of  his  life.  Greatly  agitated,  I  hurried 
forward,  and  found  Mildbraed  in  the  village  of  M'bio, 
surroimded  by  four  European  traders  who  happened 


154      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

to  be  passing.  His  right  arm  was  much  swollen,  and 
he  lay  in  a  dazed  state  with  every  symptom  of 
poisoning. 

It  turned  out  that  when  about  to  break  camp, 
Mildbraed  had  noticed  a  reptile  which  he  considered 
worth  catching,  and  had  taken  hold  of  it,  firmly  believ- 
ing it  to  be  a  harmless  ringed  worm.  Unfortunately  it 
was  not  a  ringed  worm,  but  a  very  poisonous  snake 
closely  resembling  it  in  appearance,  Atractaspis  cor- 
pulenta^  which  promptly  retaliated  by  biting  him  in 
the  finger.  Mildbraed,  still  in  ignorance  of  the  poisonous 
nature  of  the  animal,  paid  little  attention  to  the  accident, 
but  half  an  hour  later,  just  as  he  was  passing  Soltau's 
factory,  violent  symptoms  of  poisoning  set  in.  It  was 
much  too  late  for  any  of  the  usual  antidotes  such  as 
strong  doses  of  alcohol,  or  incisions  round  the  wound, 
to  be  effective,  for  the  poison  was  evidently  in  his 
system.  Even  the  usually  potent  remedies  of  the 
natives  administered  by  the  advice  of  the  village 
"  medicine  man  "  produced  no  result.  When  at  last 
the  man  carrying  my  drugs  had  arrived,  hours  had 
elapsed  since  the  bite,  and  I  administered  some  of  them 
merely  in  order  to  feel  that  I  had  neglected  no  possible 
antidote. 

There  was  nothing  to  do  but  wait,  in  the  hopes 
that  my  comrade's  vigorous  constitution  would  be 
able  to  withstand  the  effect  of  the  poison.  It  was 
late  at  night,  after  many  anxious  hours,  that  the  first 
signs  of  improvement  were  noticeable.  The  patient 
was  able  to  retain  the  first  spoonful  of  cognac,  and  his 
pulse  became  more  regular.  From  this  moment  he 
made  rapid  strides  towards  recovery,  and  by  the  next 
morning  he  was  so  much  better  that  he  declared  his 
intention  of   starting   on  the  following   day.      When 


m 

^iiiii^ 

^^^^^^^H|M|!                   ^^ 

^^^Hlk 

^^^t^^^^^mv^^^^JntSSS^SK 

t^^Bf 

"^    ^^^^j^^^l^^^^^^^^^^E 

^^K. 

i^^^^^B 

^^HHk|^%\ 

^V.^O^v\wS^SSl^^^^^^^^^^^K 

^^K 

lllJ^^^^ 

149,   Kaka  men  weaving  mats. 


150.   Kaka  man  mending  a  bed. 


e 

o 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  155 

I  gave  the  "  witch-doctor "  of  M'bio  a  fee  for  his 
"  professional  services  "  in  the  form  of  a  new  khaki 
uniform,  he  seemed  very  proud,  and  he  had  evidently 
risen  considerably  in  the  estimation  of  his  countrymen. 

Early  on  the  10th  of  April  Mildbraed  and  I  entered 
upon  the  last  stage  of  the  return  journey  to  Yukaduma, 
this  time  due  south-west  from  the  village  of  Lamuk 
through  the  "  dead "  jungle.  Mildbraed  was  now 
quite  out  of  danger,  and  begged  me  to  disregard  the 
slow  pace  necessitated  by  the  results  of  his  illness, 
and  to  go  on  ahead.  I  was  induced  to  hasten  on, 
chiefly  by  the  knowledge  that  the  additional  bearers, 
requisitioned  from  the  station  of  Lomie  in  order  to 
accelerate  our  progress  through  the  third  and  largest 
"  dead  "  jungle  area,  were  awaiting  us  at  Yukaduma. 

Soon  after  passing  through  the  village  of  Lamuk, 
whose  chief,  a  typical  master  of  craft,  had  made  excuses 
for  a  scanty  supply  of  provisions  on  the  ground  that 
his  village  owned  very  few  plantations,  I  accidently 
learned  that  he  had  deceived  me.  Having  gone  a 
little  out  of  my  way,  I  met  a  whole  troop  of  Lamuk 
women,  heavily  laden  with  provisions,  marching  in 
the  bed  of  a  small  stream,  and  obviously  coming 
from  some  concealed  farm.  My  men  smiled  a  knowing 
smile,  and  expressed  their  astonishment  at  my  not 
being  acquainted  with  this  favourite  trick  of  many 
forest  tribes,  who,  besides  the  "  official "  plantations, 
possess  others  concealed  in  the  bush. 

In  this  connection  my  bearers  informed  me  that  it 
is  a  matter  of  impossibility  to  find  these  places  since 
the  roads  leading  to  them  are  the  beds  of  the  streams, 
which,  of  course,  wash  away  every  footprint ;  they 
also  assured  me  that  these  hiding-places  often  contain 
large  stores  of  ammunition  such  as  rifles  and  powder. 


156       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

Negroes,  however,  always  exaggerate  to  such  an  extent 
that  it  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  know  how  much  to 
believe  of  their  assertions.  In  any  case,  the  conduct 
of  the  Lamuk  chieftain  was  certainly  typical  of  his 
countrymen,  and  illustrates  the  craftiness  of  the 
natives. 

The  part  of  the  jungle  which  we  now  entered  was 
but  little  different  to  that  which  I  had  already  seen. 
Animals  were  scarce,  apart  from  the  insect  world, 
which  was  abundantly  represented.  It  was  only 
by  their  noise  that  the  larger  animals  betrayed  their 
presence.  During  my  first  night  in  the  jungle,  I  was 
disturbed  by  the  most  fearsome  sounds  :  a  kind  of 
angry  barking  mingled  with  roaring,  which  my  bearers 
assured  me  must  be  caused  by  fighting  gorillas.  I 
had  my  doubts  as  to  the  correctness  of  this  explanation, 
since  it  is  well  known  that  the  anthropoid  apes  are 
not  nocturnal  in  their  habits. 

At  the  station  of  Plehn  I  learned  that  the  Lomie 
bearers  had  been  waiting  for  some  time  in  Yukaduma, 
so  I  marched  on  without  further  delay,  and  reached 
this  station  the  same  afternoon  amid  torrential  rain. 

Mildbraed  arrived  the  next  day,  and  as  we  had 
too  much  to  do  in  packing  all  the  treasures  that  we 
had  collected  to  be  able  to  start  off  again  at  once,  we 
despatched  all  the  available  men,  with  an  escort  of 
two  soldiers,  to  cut  a  path  through  the  jungle.  Our 
previous  experiences  had  taught  us  how  much  the 
explorer  is  hindered  from  collecting  specimens,  when 
he  is  continually  engaged  in  removing  or  avoiding 
obstacles  upon  the  road. 

During  our  week's  stay  in  Yukaduma  our  zoological 
collection  was  enriched  by  a  very  valuable  specimen, 
for  one  day  one  of  our  hunters  brought  in  a  huge  chim- 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  157 

panzee.  (lUus.  154.)  It  was  an  old  male,  with  the 
same  evil  expression  as  a  gorilla,  and  when  alive  he 
must  have  been  almost  as  formidable  an  adversary 
as  his  large  cousin.  The  greyish  white  hair  on  his 
back  was  a  striking  feature.  The  damp  climate  of 
the  jungle  made  the  preservation  of  our  zoological 
specimens  a  matter  of  considerable  difficulty,  and  it  was 
only  after  a  great  deal  of  trouble  that  we  succeeded 
in  saving  this  precious  trophy.  The  meat  of  the 
chimpanzee  provided  a  pleasant  change  in  the  menu 
of  our  negroes,  who  consider  it  a  great  luxury,  and 
the  N'dzimu  bearers  repeatedly  assured  me  that  the 
taste  is  similar  to  that  of  human  flesh. 

We  had  to  take  with  us  enough  food  to  carry  us 
over  the  uninhabited  part  of  the  jungle,  and  the  greed 
of  the  natives  is  Hable  to  stultify  the  best-laid  plans. 
Unless  they  are  carefully  supervised,  they  are  quite 
ready  to  devour  in  one  afternoon  the  provisions  for 
four  days,  confident  that  "  massa  "  will  somehow  or 
other  provide  them  with  "  chop." 

Mildbraed  was  the  first  to  vanish  in  the  foUage 
of  the  "  dead  "  Assobam  jungle,  setting  off  in  a  westerly 
direction  early  on  Easter  Sunday,  in  glorious  weather. 
Each  of  his  men  carried  four  days'  provisions,  and 
three  other  bearers  were  entrusted  with  supplies  for 
one  day  more. 

The  Assobam  jungle  is  the  larger  of  the  two  "  con- 
cession districts  "  belonging  to  the  South  Cameroon 
Company.  Throughout  both  these  districts  are 
scattered  collecting  stations  managed  by  Europeans 
who  supervise  the  gradual  collection  of  the  rubber, 
so  that  the  supply  obtained  is  of  the  highest  quality. 
These  are  the  loneliest  and  most  remote  dwellings 
for  white  men  that  it  is  possible  to  imagine,  for  it 


158       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

is  only  on  rare  occasions  that  another  European 
penetrates  so  far  into  the  jungle.  It  is  not  everyone 
who  would  care  for  such  a  post,  yet  there  are  men 
who  can  live  here  quite  contentedly.  They  belong 
to  that  small  community  of  the  elect  who  never  tire 
of  reading  in  the  book  of  Nature  her  inexhaustible 
and  ever-changing  daily  lessons. 

On  Easter  Monday  I,  too,  was  swallowed  up  by  the 
dark  leafy  glades  of  the  vast,  deserted  jungle.  The 
bearers  carried,  besides  their  loads,  provisions  for  five 
days,  which  I  had  distributed  to  them  in  the  early 
morning.  In  addition  the  kindly  Yukaduma  natives 
had  given  them  many  farewell  gifts  of  food,  so  that 
in  this  respect  they  appeared  to  be  well  provided  for. 
Herr  Graf  accompanied  me  as  far  as  the  outskirts  of 
the  village,  and  when  he  took  leave  of  me  the  weather 
was  warm  and  sunny.  The  fine  weather  lasted  a  few 
days  longer,  and  then  the  lesser  rainy  season  set  in  with 
redoubled  violence,  and  during  the  succeeding  weeks 
there  were  well  -  nigh  daily  showers  more  or  less 
violent,  or  else  tornadoes,  thundering  in  the  near 
distance. 

It  was  not  until  we  had  reached  our  first  camping 
ground  that  I  found  leisure  to  muster  my  new  N'dzimu 
bearers,  who  differed  in  every  respect  from  my  old  Bule 
men.  There  was  an  unmistakable  note  of  cannibal  greed 
in  their  repulsive,  half  sullen,  half  cunning  countenances, 
surmounted  by  a  ponderous  coiffure,  and  armed  with 
sharp  teeth  filed  to  a  point,  resembling  those  of  a  tiger. 
How  much  more  sociable  and  accommodating  were 
my  old  bearers  belonging  to  the  warlike  Bule  tribe  ! 
The  Bule  women  especially,  who,  according  to  the 
almost  universal  custom  of  the  South  Cameroons, 
accompanied  the   men  and  took  their  share  of  the 


I^I^II^I^^^e^hhHH 

■ 

^^^^^^V% 

^^ 

"^^^V^^~ 

i^p^"^- 

■i 

152. 

Kaka  women  remaking  hair-pad. 

•  -^        *  * 

*'•? 

w  ,^.:.fifjimmtmm 

;,    TTfi-^^B-f 

^ 

MmApjr^k  .  f 

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'■    .   <     '           -■     •• 

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•      ■                          "''" 

153.   Strangling  fig  in  the  forest. 


154.    Old  Tschego.    (Chimpanzee.) 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  159 

work  of  carrying,  displayed  remarkable  courage  and 
endurance,  never  grumbling  even  under  the  greatest 
hardships.  A  few  of  the  Bule  "  boys  "  subsequently 
proved  first-rate  assistants  in  collecting  and  preserv- 
ing specimens ;  Mildbraed's  "  botanical  assistant," 
the  admirable  Ekomeno,  was  familiar  with  a  great 
many  plants,  and  was  particularly  clever  in  dis- 
covering those  that  were  new  to  his  masters.  But 
his  powers  of  observation  were  at  least  equalled  by 
those  of  my  "  boy  "  Stepke,  whose  practised  eyesight 
never  missed  any  rare  zoological  specimen. 

One  advantage  of  having  men  of  different  tribes 
lay  in  the  fact  that  if  anyone  stole  or  committed  any 
other  irregularity,  one  tribe  would  invariably  "  tell 
tales  "  of  the  other  to  "  Massa."  This  was  particularly 
useful  during  our  long  march  through  the  jungle,  as 
it  facilitated  the  watch  I  was  obliged  to  keep  on  the 
supply  of  provisions. 

On  the  second  day's  march  we  came  to  an  end  of 
the  path  that  had  been  cleared  for  us  by  the  men  sent 
on  from  Yukaduma.  We  had  to  force  our  way  through 
the  dense  undergrowth,  clambering  over  fallen  tree- 
trunks,  and  stumbling  over  roots  hidden  from  view 
by  the  herbaceous  growth.  We  noticed  a  most  destruc- 
tive blight  of  caterpillars  that  spared  neither  shrubs 
nor  tree-tops,  and  denuded  every  plant  of  its  foliage. 
This  phenomenon  is  generally  present  only  to  a  limited 
extent,  but  here  everything  was  swarming  with  these 
devastating  insects :  black  Ophitiside  caterpillars  with 
crimson  and  grey  markings.  Day  and  night  we  were 
surrounded  by  these  crawling  horrors  ;  it  was  impossible 
to  sit  or  lie  anywhere  without  crushing  hundreds  of 
them,  and  they  haunted  us  at  table  and  in  bed.  This 
plague  of  caterpillars  was  at  its  worst  at  our  second 


160      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

camping-ground,  which  we  reached  at  dusk.  Every 
garment  had  to  be  shaken  before  being  donned  in  the 
morning,  and  we  were  thankful  that  these  creatures 
possessed  no  stinging  hairs,  hke  some  varieties  of 
European  caterpillars. 

The  following  day  was  ushered  in  by  a  thunderstorm, 
which  turned  into  a  typical  jungle  tornado.  I  had 
been  expecting  it  for  some  hours,  the  night  being 
unusually  sultry,  but  it  did  not  reach  us  until  4  a.m. 
The  characteristic  premonitory  signs  were  noticeable, 
especially  the  rustling  of  the  leaves,  which  gives  warning 
of  the  approach  of  a  thunderstorm,  and  sounds  like 
the  mighty  roar  of  a  waterfall.  Dead  branches  rained 
down  upon  my  tent.  As  soon  as  the  thunder  became 
audible  the  roar  of  the  forest  subsided,  and  before 
reaching  our  camp,  the  force  of  the  tornado  was  spent, 
owing  to  the  elastic  resilience  of  the  tree- tops.  It  is 
well  known  that  a  tornado  never  attains  in  the  jungle 
the  same  raging,  devastating  violence  as  in  the  plains, 
where  the  restraining  influence  of  the  trees  is  absent. 
At  dawn  the  thunder  gave  place  to  a  solid  downpour 
of  rain,  and  it  was  not  until  late  in  the  morning  that 
we  were  able  to  break  camp. 

On  both  sides  of  the  Bonda  River  we  had  to  cross 
a  wide  strip  of  submerged  country,  which  resembled 
the  swamps  of  Molundu.  I  was  thankful  to  find  that 
the  rain  had  not  yet  made  any  appreciable  difference 
to  the  level  of  the  river,  for  I  learned  from  my  bearers 
that  during  the  rainy  season  caravans  have  often  been 
stopped  by  the  inundations  of  the  Bonda  River,  and 
have  sometimes  been  actually  forced  to  retrace  their 
steps.  The  high-water  marks  visible  on  the  tree  trunks, 
far  above  the  present  level  of  the  river,  proved  that 
this  was  no  exaggeration. 


^  «M^^HIi^^^Bri^/«' 

:4 

ft  ^l^'\jWjf™^WKl.fl5 

» 

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1 

» 

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■^     "               •'     4^A 

.'.^■^^^I^J'-:';;  ■. 

i/*'\'.fe 

^^\               ^%fe 

^'!%^^'- 

1%              ■   .'*     :  i^ 

155.   Phoenix  palms. 


156.   Meadow  land. 


•^ij*!'*       '^^T^ 

^^ 

|HHE>^9 

-«9 

ii . 

VTf 

157.   Station  in  the  forest. 


158.    Raffia  thicket. 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  161 

A  very  graceful  palm  tree,  Phoenix  syinosa,  grew  in 
clumps  in  and  around  the  first  clearance  that  we  en- 
countered in  the  forest.  (Illus.  155, 156.)  It  attained  a 
height  of  about  fifty  feet,  and  seemed  to  indicate  that 
the  ground  in  these  clearances  is  not  after  all  so  very 
unproductive. 

In  the  afternoon  the  bearers  laid  down  their  loads 
in  one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  in  the  whole  forest, 
half-way  up  a  hill,  not  far  from  the  comfortable  abode 
of  Herr  Fu^ick,  who  leads  a  hermit's  life  as  overseer 
of  one  of  the  rubber  collecting  stations.  (Illus.  157.) 
Here  I  came  upon  Mildbraed,  who  had  been  fortunate 
enough  to  shoot  two  fine  red  buffaloes  in  a  neighbouring 
clearance.  The  natives  were  so  excited  at  the  prospect 
of  this  unexpected  addition  to  our  larder,  that  all  else 
was  forgotten,  and  I  had  the  greatest  difficulty  in 
inducing  anyone  to  pitch  my  tent. 

A  dense  fog  enveloped  both  river  and  forest,  and  a 
ghostly  moon  pierced  this  greyish  white  curtain.  A 
fearsome  roaring  sounded  from  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  Bumba  River,  which  the  natives  assured  me 
could  be  produced  only  by  a  gorilla. 

The  next  day  I  went  for  a  walk  with  Herr  Funck, 
who  proved  to  be  a  most  observant  naturalist,  and  a 
very  interesting  companion.  The  scenery  was  beautiful, 
and  the  profusion  of  Phosnix  palms  of  all  sizes  presented 
a  unique  tropical  picture.  A  large  clearance  formed 
an  ideal  pasturage,  crossed  and  recrossed  by  innumer- 
able tracks  of  wild  hogs,  hippopotami,  elephants,  and 
other  animals. 

On  the  21st  of  April  one  of  our  hunters  enriched 
our  collection  with  a  splendid  male  specimen  of  a  rare 
monkey,  Colobus  satanas,  and  on  the  same  day  I  took 
leave  of  my  kind  host,  and  followed  in  Mildbraed's 


162      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

footsteps  towards  our  next  stopping-place  :  the  second 
collecting  station  lying  in  our  path. 

For  the  last  part  of  the  journey  the  road  rose 
gradually,  until  we  had  reached  a  height  of  nearly 
three  thousand  feet.  This,  according  to  the  map, 
was  the  N'dem  mountain,  and  my  "  boy  "  Musa  informed 
me  that  this  was  the  site  of  a  former  Kunabembe 
and  Bumbum  village,  which  had  been  vacated  after 
strenuous  fighting  with  the  N'dzimus.  So  here  was 
another  instance  of  two  not  very  distant  tribes  placing 
the  widest  possible  belt  of  uninhabited  country  between 
their  respective  villages. 

I  found  IVIildbraed  in  Herr  Passehl's  house  in  the 
recently  established  collecting  station.  He  had  just 
returned  from  an  excursion  to  a  most  interesting 
prairie,  where  he  had  found  some  wonderful  tree- 
orchids.  Soon  after  my  arrival  he  set  ofi  again  with 
his  caravan. 

I  was  unable  to  walk  owing  to  a  wound  in  my  foot, 
and  I  was  obhged  to  delay  starting  until  the  25th 
of  April.  Fortunately  only  two  days'  march  separated 
me  from  the  nearest  village,  so  that  I  had  no  difficulty 
in  providing  for  my  men.  Herr  Passehl  was  a  most 
entertaining  companion,  and  Hke  Herr  Funck,  seemed 
to  possess  all  the  requisite  qualities  for  Hving  in  such 
a  remote  spot.  Shortly  before  our  arrival  he  had 
an  adventure  with  a  leopard,  which  had  penetrated 
into  his  kitchen,  and  being  driven  into  a  corner  by  the 
natives,  had  broken  all  the  crockery. 

The  lesser  rainy  season  had  now  thoroughly  set  in, 
and  the  intervals  of  fine  weather  became  shorter  and 
shorter.  I  was  anxious  to  reach  Lomie  as  soon  as 
possible,  for  I  hoped  at  last  to  receive  letters  from 
home ;    so  far  an  inexpUcable  chain  of  mishaps  had 


YUKADUMA  TO  ASSOBAM  163 

prevented  me  from  obtaining  them,  except  on  one 
occasion. 

Two  fatiguing  days'  march,  however,  still  lay  before 
us,  and  the  men  soon  became  utterly  exhausted  owing 
to  the  constant  stooping,  stumbling,  and  climbing 
along  the  rough  and  slippery  path.  A  monotonous 
undergrowth  of  Aframomum  bushes  shut  out  the  view, 
and  drenched  us  with  water,  even  when  the  rain  had 
momentarily  ceased. 

At  length,  about  noon  on  the  second  day,  the 
scene  changed.  At  a  camping-place  recently  vacated 
by  Mildbraed,  I  reached  what  was  evidently  an  impor- 
tant floral  boundary. 

A  small,  clear  stream,  bordered  by  a  beautiful  raphia 
jungle  (illus.  158),  separated  two  forest  regions  so 
entirely  different  in  appearance  that  one  could  almost 
fancy  that  the  whim  of  some  giant  gardener  had  taken 
up  two  plots  of  jungle  from  different  parts  of  Africa 
and  placed  them  here  side  by  side.  In  marked  contrast 
to  the  previous  dearth  of  flowers,  the  forest  on  the 
further  side  of  the  stream  displayed  such  a  marvellous 
wealth  of  vegetation  that  it  could  not  have  escaped 
the  notice  even  of  the  most  casual  observer.  Shortly 
afterwards  I  came  upon  Mildbraed,  who  confirmed  my 
observations,  and  expressed  his  delight  at  having  at 
last  found  so  promising  a  field  for  botanical  research. 

It  is  certainly  remarkable  that  such  an  insignificant 
stream  should  form  so  definite  a  floral  boundary,  which 
might  more  reasonably  have  been  expected  to  coincide 
with  the  flooded  banks  of  the  Bumba  River.   (Illus.  159.) 

It  took  a  whole  hour  to  cross  this  river,  owing  to 
the  small  capacity  of  the  two  available  canoes,  which 
had  to  be  handled  with  caution  on  account  of  the 
rapidity   of   the   current.    Soon  afterwards   we   came 


164   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

to  numerous  scattered  houses  which  are  all  included 
under  the  name  of  Assobam,  and  the  presence  of 
European  factories  proved  that  we  were  in  the  centre 
of  an  important  rubber  district.  A  Uttle  later  I  found 
Mildbraed,  who  had  taken  up  his  abode  in  one  of  the 
houses  of  the  station  of  Assobam.  A  considerable 
portion  of  the  journey  through  the  jungle  now  lay 
behind  us. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

ASSOBAM   TO   EBOLOWA 

In  spite  of  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  wilderness 
through  which  we  had  recently  travelled,  as  well  as 
many  rich  tracts  of  forest  land  farther  east,  are  almost 
devoid  of  culture,  and  afford  a  striking  contrast,  such 
as  are  so  frequently  encountered  in  Africa,  with  the 
country  round  Assobam.  Here,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
see,  the  land  is  cultivated  in  every  direction,  and  is 
crowded  with  villages  belonging  to  the  North- West 
N'dzimus.  Here  and  there,  in  the  hollows,  small 
portions  of  the  primeval  forest  remain  intact,  but  the 
rising  ground  is  entirely  covered  with  plantations. 

There  is  always  a  wealth  of  bird  life  wherever  the 
original  vegetation  has  disappeared,  and  flocks  of  black 
storks  have  made  their  homes  in  the  few,  isolated 
trees  which,  after  the  rest  of  the  ground  was  cleared, 
remained  as  witnesses  to  the  former  existence  of  a 
primeval  forest. 

We  had  to  turn  our  attention  in  the  first  place  to 
the  preservation  of  the  treasures  that  we  had  already 
collected,  for  the  air  was  very  damp  owing  to  the 
almost  incessant  rain.  Mildbraed  had  great  difficulty 
in  drying  his  "  hay,"  and  I  spent  a  good  deal  of  time 
in  ethnological  research,  for  which  Assobam  offers  a 
highly  interesting  field. 

The  difficulties  under  which  the  Constabulary  in 
years  gone  by  fought  the  cannibal  N'dzimus,  N'yems 
m2  im 


166      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

and  Makas  in  this  weather-trap,  must  have  been  con- 
siderable. I  learned  from  the  vivid  narratives  of  the 
negroes,  who  had  witnessed  the  fight  with  the  Makas 
on  the  banks  of  the  Longmapfog,  how  admirably  the 
natives  were  protected  by  the  hydrographical  situation 
of  their  villages.  My  curiosity  was  stimulated  by 
what  I  heard  from  eye-witnesses,  though  their  story 
was  probably  supplemented  from  their  imagination. 
They  spoke  of  a  high-lying  marsh,  a  land  full  of  swamps, 
accessible  only  by  means  of  narrow  canoes,  small 
enough  to  navigate  the  deep  channels  that  are  bordered 
by  green,  treacherous  bogs  ready  to  engulf  the  unwary. 
Overshadowing  everything  is  the  inhospitable  jungle. 
It  must  indeed  have  been  a  wearisome  and  thankless 
task  to  pursue  the  fierce  Makas,  familiar  as  they  were 
with  the  labyrinth  of  channels,  along  which  they  shot 
their  tiny  canoes  at  the  speed  of  a  galloping  horse. 

I  was  eager  to  explore  this  district,  but  was  obliged 
to  relinquish  the  idea  for  two  reasons.  In  the  first 
place  we  were  already  overdue,  according  to  the  time 
allotted  to  our  journey,  and  in  the  second  place  there 
were  all  kinds  of  rumours  current  which  were  credited 
by  Europeans  as  well  as  negroes,  and  which  made  it 
quite  clear  that  an  expedition  into  the  heart  of  the 
Maka  district  was  not  to  be  thought  of.  Later  on  I 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  some  of  the  districts  through 
which  we  waded  on  the  plateau,  in  the  bend  of  the 
Djah,  suppUed  a  sufficiently  correct  impression  of 
this  country  which  was  closed  to  us  for  poHtical  reasons. 
At  any  rate,  neither  Mildbraed  nor  I  had  the  least 
desire  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  any  more  swamps. 

The  above-mentioned  rumours  referred  to  a  European 
agent  of  an  EngHsh  factory  who  was  said  to  have  been 
murdered  and  eaten  five  days  before  my  arrival  in 


B 
CO 


u 


<1> 


o. 


O 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  167 

Assobam.  He  had  paid  no  attention  to  a  warning 
in  the  shape  of  a  human  finger  that  was  placed 
on  his  washhand- stand  one  morning.  Opinions  were 
divided  as  to  the  exact  spot  where  these  events  had 
taken  place.  Some  people  asserted  that  the  N'yems 
were  the  murderers,  others  insisted  that  the  Maka 
district  was  the  scene  of  action,  wliile  others  again 
accused  the  Kakas.  It  was  impossible  for  me  to 
test  the  truth  of  these  rumours,  although  personally 
I  inclined  to  the  belief  that  the  Kakas  were  responsible, 
as  I  had  already  heard  in  Dalugene  the  story  of  the 
amputated  finger. 

When  one  remembers  the  authenticated  occurrences 
of  the  past  year,  one  is  bound  to  admit  that  these 
rumours  did  not  sound  altogether  improbable.  The 
cannibal  orgies  of  the  Makas  were  well  known,  in  which 
hundreds  of  people  were  sacrificed,  and  which  provoked 
relentless  fighting.  Then  there  was  the  murder  of  a 
European  merchant,  which  occurred  only  a  few  months 
before  our  arrival  in  the  country.  The  last  doubt 
as  to  the  truth  of  the  rumours  disappeared  when  we 
learned  that  the  governor  of  Lomie  and  the  government 
physician,  as  well  as  Dr  Schuhmacher,  the  district 
magistrate,  were  on  their  way,  accompanied  by  an 
escort  of  soldiers,  to  investigate  the  cause  of  all  these 
wild  reports. 

I  recalled  the  warning  of  the  amputated  finger, 
expressing  as  it  did  the  mystical  tendency  of  the  natives, 
when  I  was  told  in  Assobam  that  in  a  neighbour- 
ing village  N^gi  festivities  were  in  progress.  In  this 
mystical  ceremonial  human  legs  and  skulls  play  an 
important  part,  an  instance  of  crass  ignorance  only 
equalled  by  the  belief  in  witchcraft  of  the  Middle  Ages. 
I  heard  of  this  N'gi  first  from  a  trader  named  Pilz, 


168       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

from  Besam,  who  met  me  in  the  Kunabembe  district, 
and  showed  me  an  extraordinary  photograph  which 
corroborated  part  of  his  narrative.  N^gi  is  the  name 
for  a  gorilla  among  the  hunting  tribes,  so  there  is 
probably  an  intimate  connection  between  this  word 
and  the  ideal  of  a  devil.  The  N^gi  superstition  has 
travelled  a  long  way.  It  originated  in  the  country 
inhabited  by  the  Pangwe  tribes  on  the  upper  N'tem 
(Campo),  and,  according  to  one  of  my  men.  Samba, 
the  N'tum,  it  spread  through  the  Bules  to  the  N'yems 
and  N'dzimus.  The  original  ceremonies  have  gradually 
changed,  and  the  only  element  essential  to  the  whole 
thing  lies  in  the  speculation  of  the  crafty  "  medicine 
men "  and  chiefs  on  the  stupidity  and  superstition 
of  the  other  natives.  A  participant  in  the  N'gi  cere- 
monial is  safeguarded  from  attacks  on  his  life,  and 
the  fideHty  of  his  wives  is  guaranteed.  Any  N^gi 
misconduct,  when  detected,  is  severely  punished  by 
the  Government,  and  rightly  so,  for  it  is  obvious  that 
every  sort  of  extortion,  blackmail,  and  even  murder 
goes  hand  in  hand  with  this  superstition.  An  Enghsh 
trader  assured  Mildbraed  that  under  no  circumstances 
would  he  spend  the  night  in  a  village  where  N'gi  magic 
was  in  progress,  since  he  could  do  so  only  at  the 
imminent  risk  of  his  life. 

We  were  unable  to  anticipate  the  vagaries  of  the 
weather,  for  the  prognostications  by  which  we  regulated 
our  march  were  seldom  justified.  The  very  day  that 
Mildbraed  set  his  caravan  in  motion  in  the  direction 
of  Lomie  a  storm  came  on  soon  after  he  had  started, 
from  which  I  too  suffered  in  the  old  station  house  at 
Assobam,  the  roof  being  by  no  means  water-tight. 

After  the  rain  had  ceased  I  received  a  visit  from  a 
Pygmy,  the  first  I  had  seen  for  a  long  time,  and  the 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  169 

most  extraordinary  looking  member  of  this  race  that 
I  have  ever  come  across,  his  features  resembUng  those 
of  a  native  of  Malay. 

My  short  stay  in  Assobam  had  afforded  me  much 
interesting  ethnological  information,  and  it  was  with 
considerable  satisfaction  at  the  results  of  my  visit 
that  I  set  off  towards  Lomie.  We  marched  for  several 
hours  through  beautiful  forest  country  until  we  arrived 
at  the  village  of  Malen,  where  my  men  were  to  take 
up  their  quarters  for  the  night. 

On  the  way  I  had  an  unexpected  pleasure.  A 
messenger  from  Lomie  met  me  in  the  forest  and  gave 
me  the  packet  of  letters  that  I  had  been  eagerly  await- 
ing for  many  months.  At  first  I  thought  of  waiting  to 
open  them  until  I  reached  Malen,  but  the  longing 
for  home  news  prevailed.  I  set  up  my  deck  chair 
in  the  midst  of  the  jungle  and,  deaf  to  all  around  me, 
buried  myself  in  the  contents  of  my  letters  and  cards, 
which  had  been  accumulating  for  so  long  that  they 
formed  a  perfect  mountain.  My  "  boys "  watched 
me  impatiently  as  I  read  on  for  nearly  two  hours, 
whilst  clouds  of  gay  butterflies  settled  unnoticed  on 
my  letters,  hands  and  coat. 

Among  my  letters  was  one  from  von  Wiese,  with 
the  astonishing  news  that  the  Duke,  with  Professors 
Haberer  and  Heims,  had  given  up  their  original  plan, 
and  having  explored  Lake  Tchad,  were  on  their  way 
to  the  coast.  From  von  Wiese's  letter  I  learned  also 
of  the  tragic  fate  that  had  befallen  our  gallant  dogs, 
who  had  been  such  entertaining  comrades  on  the  journey 
out.  When,  late  in  the  afternoon,  I  reached  my  tent 
at  Malen,  I  felt  in  the  mood  to  answer  all  my  letters 
on  the  spot,  but  I  had  so  much  work  to  do  in  sorting 
and  labelling  specimens  that  I  was  obHged  to  forego 


170   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

this  pleasure.  The  following  morning  I  met  a  police 
officer  on  his  way  to  Assobam,  accompanied  by  eight 
soldiers,  and  he  informed  me  that  he  was  deputed 
to  investigate  the  rumours  of  murder  that  I  had  already 
heard  in  Assobam. 

The  village  of  Man,  where  I  intended  to  camp  that 
night,  was  described  by  my  ."  Bules  "  as  "  Minnega- 
town,"  that  is  to  say,  a  woman's  village,  because  a 
woman  here  filled  the  office  of  chief.  As  I  approached 
the  wretched  hamlet,  an  old  woman  came  out  to  meet 
me.  She  endeavoured  to  maintain  a  military  carriage, 
and  took  off  her  slouch  hat  to  me.  The  latter  being 
the  emblem  of  office  of  a  chief,  I  could  no  longer  doubt 
that  the  principle  of  women's  emancipation  had 
triumphed  in  this  cannibal  village.  There  are,  how- 
ever, several  chieftainesses,  and  later  on  I  came  across 
a  young  woman  who  held  this  post,  and  did  the  honours 
in  the  most  dignified  manner  possible.  Moreover,  it 
was  always  good  policy  to  give  presents  to  the  wives 
of  the  chiefs,  the  result  being  the  smoothing  away  of 
all  difficulties. 

The  provisions  supplied  to  my  men  by  the  chief tainess 
of  Man  were  scanty,  and  even  at  a  high  price  there  was 
little  to  be  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  so  that  I  was 
inclined  to  credit  the  assertions  of  my  bearers  that 
here,  as  so  often  happens  in  the  forest  districts,  the 
natives  had  some  other  plantation  hidden  away  some- 
where in  the  jungle. 

Strips  of  virgin  forest  alternating  with  newly  estab- 
lished or  forsaken  farms,  recently  built  villages, 
and  abandoned  village  sites,  new  factories,  and  old 
ones  falling  into  ruin,  with  here  and  there  the  cross 
denoting  the  grave  of  a  European,  symbolised  the 
restless  change  brought  about  by  the  frenzied  search 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  171 

for  rubber.  A  wide,  shadeless  road,  on  which  the 
scorching  tropical  sun  blazed  down,  traversed  this 
ever-changing  landscape.  In  the  neighbourhood  of 
Lomie  especially,  where  the  road  is  about  thirty  feet 
wide,  I  was  struck  by  the  contrast  between  this  broad 
street  and  the  jungle  path  from  Yukaduma  to  Asso- 
bam,  the  discomforts  of  which  were  still  fresh  in  my 
memory. 

I  reached  Lomie  on  the  1st  of  May,  and  was  received 
by  the  secretary,  Lutz,  who,  in  the  absence  of  the  District- 
Governor,  was  in  charge  of  the  station,  and  who  enter- 
tained Mildbraed  and  me  most  hospitably  for  a  whole 
week.  Before  we  left  we  made  the  acquaintance  of 
the  District  Magistrate,  Dr  Schuhmacher,  and  of  the 
station  physician,  Dr  Rautenberg,  who  told  us  that 
the  rumours  of  a  native  rising  had  proved  to  be 
imaginary.  The  European  said  to  have  been  murdered 
was  alive  and  well,  and  in  all  the  alarmist  reports  that 
had  caused  such  excitement  throughout  the  whole 
district,  there  proved  to  be  not  a  particle  of  truth  ! 

Accustomed  as  we  were  to  the  modest  station  build- 
ings of  Molundu,  and  to  bark  factories  which  we  looked 
upon  as  the  height  of  luxury,  we  were  amazed  at  the 
soUdity  of  the  Lomie  houses.  The  new  fortress  of 
Lomie  stands  in  a  commanding  position  in  the  midst 
of  a  clearance  about  half  a  mile  square.  Solidly  built 
of  brick,  it  is  impregnable  as  far  as  native  weapons 
are  concerned.  The  District-Governor's  residence  is  a 
large  square  building,  the  lower  part  of  which  is  used 
as  an  office.  Various  comfortable  bark  and  palm-leaf 
buildings  stand  outside  the  fortress,  also  the  attractive 
two-storied  brick  house  belonging  to  the  District 
Magistrate,  all  of  them  surrounded  by  luxmiant  gardens 
and  plantations.    In  the  gardens  are  all  kinds  of  vege- 


172      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

tables,  and  between  the  houses  avenues  of  mangoes, 
oranges,  lemons  and  guavas;  there  is,  moreover,  one 
small  coffee  plantation. 

We  were  very  glad  to  be  Hving  in  soUd  brick  houses 
instead  of  under  canvas,  for  day  after  day  violent 
thunderstorms  broke  over  the  station.  Mildbraed  kept 
his  bed  owing  to  an  attack  of  fever,  which,  however, 
speedily  yielded  to  treatment. 

Thanks  to  Dr  Schuhmacher's  kind  assistance,  I  made 
the  acquaintance  of  some  more  "  Ebayeggas,"  who  were 
of  a  quite  different  type  to  the  Pygmies  of  Molundu 
and  Momos.  They  were  somewhat  nervous  on  entering 
the  fortress,  but  as  soon  as  I  welcomed  them  in  their 
own  tongue,  they  recovered  from  their  nervousness, 
and  readily  answered  my  questions.  These  were  the 
last  dwarfs  that  I  came  across  who  understood  their 
ancient  language ;  the  next  members  of  a  pygmy 
tribe  with  whom  I  came  in  contact,  not  far  from  the 
coast,  had  entirely  forgotten  it. 

During  the  few  sunny  hours  with  which  we  were 
favoured,  I  had  a  very  interesting  ornithological 
experience.  On  three  separate  occasions,  namely,  the 
5th,  6th,  and  8th  of  May,  I  recognised,  high  up  in  the 
air,  some  well-known  bird  voices.  These  proved  to 
proceed  from  flights  of  our  swifts,  Micropus  apus, 
circling  with  characteristic  cry  high  above  us,  and  then 
disappearing  rapidly  in  a  north-easterly  direction. 

Mildbraed  placed  great  reliance  on  the  botanical 
zeal  of  his  faithful  Ekomeno,  who  staggered  home 
several  times  a  day  carrying  a  heavy  load  of  specimens. 
One  day  he  brought  in  a  piece  of  Hana,  about  six  feet 
long,  which  he  held  in  a  u- shaped  position.  It  was 
the  famous  creeper,  belonging  to  the  Dilleniacece  family, 
from  which  the  natives  obtain  a  sufficient  quantity 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  173 

of  water  when  no  other  hquid  is  available.  When 
we  untied  the  piece  of  liana  and  held  up  one  end, 
a  stream  of  water  ran  out,  as  if  from  a  fountain. 
We  collected  nearly  a  pint  of  perfectly  clear  drinking 
water.  Later  on  Undene  called  my  attention  to  another 
plant  with  the  same  property  though  to  a  lesser  degree ; 
this  was  the  umbrella  tree,  which,  when  bored  above  its 
candelabra-Uke  aerial  roots,  yields,  in  a  comparatively 
short  time,  a  supply  of  excellent  drinking  water. 

Meanwhile  we  had  completed  all  our  preparations 
for  our  westward  march.  We  succeeded  in  inducing 
a  few  of  the  N'dzimus,  who  had  accompanied  us  from 
Yukaduma,  to  proceed  as  far  as  Sangmelima.  The 
remaining  N'dzimus  were  replaced  by  Bules,  both 
men  and  women,  who  had  brought  loads  from  Ebolowa 
to  Lomie  and  were  anxious  to  return  home. 

Owing  to  his  recent  attack  of  fever,  Mildbraed  was 
not  yet  fit  for  much  exertion,  so  this  time  I  started 
first,  and  on  the  10th  of  May  took  leave  of  our  hospit- 
able friends  at  Lomie.  After  marching  for  a  short  time 
across  open  country,  my  caravan  once  more  vanished 
into  the  jungle,  from  the  edge  of  which  I  took  a  final 
farewell  of  the  beautifully  situated  station. 

The  road  leading  to  Bidjum  is  one  of  the  best  in  the 
whole  of  the  Cameroons.  (lUus.  161.)  Sergeant-Major 
Schwan,  who  constructed  it,  did  not  fall  into  the  error 
of  cutting  down  the  big  trees  on  each  side  of  the  road. 
When  this  is  done  the  underwood  has  an  opportunity 
of  growing  luxuriantly,  and  much  labour  is  required 
in  order  to  keep  the  road  clear. 

The  road  is  from  six  to  ten  feet  wide,  according 
as  the  exigencies  of  the  forest  permit ;  it  is  almost 
level,  and  all  the  streams  have  been  carefully  bridged 
over.     Marching    through   the    jungle    on   a    road    as 


174   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

smooth  as  that  of  a  park  was  a  real  pleasure,  each  turn 
revealing  new  beauties  of  the  landscape.  Luxuriant 
rotang  lianas  stretched  from  one  tree  trunk  to  the 
other ;  hght-green  tree-ferns  varied  the  sombre  depths 
of  the  glades,  whilst  here  and  there  in  the  under- 
wood were  vivid  patches  of  scarlet.  The  trees  were 
all  bursting  into  leaf,  and  the  foHage  displayed  the 
most  uncommon  tints :  gold,  crimson,  scarlet  and 
purple. 

Unfortunately  the  vagaries  of  the  rainy  season 
somewhat  spoiled  our  enjoyment.  On  the  second 
day's  march  we  were  overtaken  by  a  violent  thunder- 
storm, the  peals  of  thunder  being  almost  continuous, 
like  some  great  explosion.  The  persistent  downpour 
could  scarcely  be  called  mere  rain ;  it  seemed  rather 
as  if  sheets  of  water  were  falHng  from  the  sky.  One 
needs  to  be  in  the  open  air  in  order  to  reahse  the  violence 
of  a  tropical  shower.  In  the  space  of  a  few  minutes 
the  road  was  converted  into  a  raging  torrent,  and  the 
bare  feet  of  the  bearers  could  obtain  no  hold  on  the 
slippery  stones,  so  that  they  kept  on  falling  down 
with  their  heavy  loads. 

In  such  weather  the  "  rest-houses,"  placed  at  intervals 
along  the  road,  are  most  welcome,  for  a  tent  affords 
little  shelter  against  torrential  rain.  These  halting- 
places  along  the  Bidjum  road  are  for  the  most  part 
surrounded  by  extensive  cassada  plantations,  cultivated 
by  the  Government.  They  take  the  place  of  the 
former  villages,  which,  at  the  time  of  the  N'yem  risings, 
were  the  scene  of  many  deeds  of  blood. 

On  the  12th  of  May  we  reached  a  wide,  cultivated 
area,  planted  with  young  hickxin  trees,  on  the  outskirts 
of  the  station  of  Djah.  We  could  not  distinguish  any 
details,  for  the  rain  shut  out  the  view  and  gave  every- 


o 

I 

o 

'•a 


o 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  175 

thing  a  blurred  appearance.  The  great  rubber  trees 
loomed  like  ghosts  through  the  steam  that  rose  from 
the  ground,  and  there  were  also  a  few  gigantic  examples 
of  Mimusops  djave,  whose  towering  summits,  covered 
with  epiphytes,  rose  to  a  dizzy  height. 

In  spite  of  the  unfavourable  weather,  the  governor 
of  the  station,  Herr  Rappe,  came  some  way  to 
meet  me,  and  conducted  me  to  the  guest  house.  On 
the  way  I  caught  sight  of  three  strange-looking  men, 
of  a  deep  black  colour,  with  blue  beads  in  their  hair, 
which  was  curled  like  that  of  a  woman.  (Illus.  162, 
163.)  I  was  informed  that  they  were  Makas,  convicts 
from  the  cannibal  villages,  who  had  taken  part  in  the 
last  rising,  and  had  murdered  an  unarmed  white  trader. 
They  scowled  at  my  camera,  but  were  obliged  to  submit 
to  its  evil  magic,  which  they  probably  looked  upon  as 
a  partial  atonement  for  their  crimes. 

A  mysterious  animal  was  mentioned  to  me  by  Herr 
Rappe,  and  I  heard  of  it  also  on  a  subsequent  occasion 
in  another  place.  The  natives  called  it  "  Bung-Bung," 
and  it  was  said  to  be  very  rare.  It  was  so  strong 
that  it  could  kill  a  leopard,  and  my  informant  added 
that  he  had  recently  found  a  leopard  that  had  evidently 
been  killed  by  some  wild  animal,  this  animal  being, 
in  the  opinion  of  the  natives,  a  "  Bung-Bung."  We 
could  not  make  out  what  kind  of  creature  it  could  be, 
for  the  natives  had  other  names  for  every  animal  we 
mentioned.  As  a  last  resource,  I  applied  to  Undene, 
who  replied  without  a  moment's  hesitation  :  "  Massa, 
Bung-Bung  be  Bule  name  for  lion." 

We  were  speechless  with  astonishment !  If  we  had 
been  told  that  okapis  were  to  be  found  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, we  could  not  have  been  more  surprised.  Further 
questions  elicited  from  Undene  the  information  that 


176      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

lions  are  occasionally,  though  very  rarely,  present 
in  the  jungle,  that  they  remain  hidden  in  the  densest 
part  of  the  thicket,  where  they  lie  in  wait  for  any 
animal  for  which  they  are  a  match,  and  that  they  are 
very  seldom  seen,  since  no  native  would  venture  to  hunt 
them.  Although  I  had  always  found  Undene's  zoological 
statements  quite  reliable,  I  had  my  doubts  as  to  the 
presence  in  the  jungle  of  an  animal  that  is  supposed 
to  be  restricted  to  the  desert,  the  latter  being  approxi- 
mately three  hundred  miles  from  the  bend  of  the  Djah. 
At  that  time  the  distance  of  the  desert  was  the  only 
point  which  I  took  into  consideration  with  regard  to 
the  possible  presence  of  a  lion  in  the  jungle ;  later  on, 
however,  I  came  to  look  upon  the  matter  from  another 
point  of  view. 

It  is  easy  to  understand  the  hydrographical  distribu- 
tion of  the  region  enclosed  by  the  Upper  N'ybng,  the 
Dume,  the  Bumba,  and  the  Aina  rivers,  when  one  takes 
into  consideration  the  almost  complete  absence  of  any 
slope  on  this  immense  plateau,  together  with  the 
impervious,  and  in  parts  loamy,  nature  of  the  soil 
covering  the  rock.  It  is  obvious  how  hard  it  must 
have  been  for  these  watercourses  to  decide  in  which 
direction  to  flow.  Often,  especially  in  the  case  of  the 
smaller  streams,  the  current  is  so  weak  as  to  be  well- 
nigh  imperceptible,  Uke  that  of  the  sluggish  rivulets 
of  our  fens.  Like  most  rivers  on  a  slight  incline,  they 
show,  with  few  exceptions,  a  marked  tendency  to 
form  an  intricate  maze  of  meanderings,  and  the  rivulets 
that  give  rise  to  an  immense  swamp  are  often  quite 
insignificant.  In  some  districts  the  Government  has,  at 
great  expense,  bridged  the  black  morass  with  roads  made 
of  round  logs,  which  are  a  great  boon  to  the  traveller. 

Here  in  these  swamps  is  to  be  found  the  explanation 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  177 

of  the  peculiar  hue  of  the  Congo.  Every  rivulet  is 
brownish  in  colour ;  in  most  of  them  the  water, 
although  perfectly  clear,  is  of  a  deep  coffee  brown, 
and  becomes  inky  black  in  the  stagnant  places.  The 
substances  which  give  rise  to  this  pecuHar  colouration 
are  formed  during  the  decomposition  of  various  plants 
growing  in  the  swamps  ;  probably  the  raphia  palms 
and  tree-ferns  are  mainly  responsible,  since  the  more 
they  predominate  on  the  banks,  the  more  pronounced 
is  the  discolouration  of  the  water.    (Illus.  164.) 

The  acidity  of  the  soil,  which  gives  rise  to  so  per- 
manent a  dye,  has  evidently  another  important  chemical 
effect ;  on  the  river  banks,  beneath  the  thick  layer 
of  black  mud,  there  is  almost  always  a  stratum  of 
greyish-white,  or  even  snow-white,  kaohn,  which 
gradually  gives  place  to  the  underlying  stone.  The 
natives  make  use  of  this  kaolin  as  a  white  dye,  and 
also  as  an  admirable  fire-proof  material  for  the  nozzles 
of  their  bellows. 

On  the  13th  of  May  I  left  the  Djah  station,  and 
entered  upon  a  vast  swamp,  over  which  a  log  road 
had  been  constructed,  and  through  which  the  Djah 
meandered,  its  current  strengthened  by  the  recent 
rains. 

We  marched  for  horn's  through  monotonous  forest 
land,  composed  almost  exclusively  of  umbrella-trees 
and  dismal  Aframomum  underwood,  all  of  which  was 
at  one  time  under  cultivation. 

Some  of  the  N'yem  villages  stretched  on  each  side 
of  the  road,  others  were  rectangular  and  were  built 
round  a  blind  alley  opening  off  the  road,  thus  betraying 
the  influence  of  the  Bules.    (Illus.  165.) 

I  was  struck  by  the  well  set  up  figures  and  classical 
heads   of  these  villagers,   who  were   superior  in  this 


178      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

respect  to  any  that  I  had  seen  up  to  the  present. 
(lUus.  168.)  In  the  village  of  Madyu  I  was  tempted 
to  attribute  to  a  hamitic  origin  the  finely-cut  noses 
and  small  lips  of  the  inhabitants,  notwithstanding 
their  dark  skin,  and  it  was  hard  to  realise  that  I  was 
face  to  face  with  one  of  the  most  savage  cannibal 
tribes  in  Africa. 

Some  of  the  children  were  particularly  attractive, 
although  the  girls  were  lamentably  disfigured  by 
having  had  their  noses  pierced.  (Illus.  170.)  The 
women's  dress  betrayed  the  influence  of  the  hunting 
tribes,  chiefly  the  Bules,  not  so  much  in  the  imitation 
of  their  fantastic  coiffure  as  in  the  adoption  of  the 
highly  becoming  Ebui. 

An  ebui  consists  of  a  thick  bunch  of  raphia  fibres, 
bound  together  in  the  form  of  a  horse's  tail,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  tasteful  of  all  the  adornments  worn 
by  negresses.  So  long  as  the  women  are  young  and 
slim,  there  is  no  better  means  of  enhancing  their 
beauty  than  the  graceful  swaying  of  this  append- 
age.   (Illus.  173.) 

There  was  nothing  to  recall  the  bloody  battles  of 
the  insurrection ;  everything  pointed  to  sensual  enjoy- 
ment and  the  joy  of  life.  During  the  moonlight 
nights  of  the  middle  of  May,  men,  women,  and  children 
made  merry  with  singing  and  dancing,  the  dances 
being  more  empassioned  than  any  that  I  had  previously 
witnessed. 

Although,  according  to  the  meteorological  tables 
for  the  South  Cameroons,  the  so-called  "  lesser  rainy 
season  "  should  long  ago  have  come  to  an  end,  not  a 
day  passed  without  torrents  of  rain  which  were  more 
of  the  nature  of  water-spouts  than  ordinary  showers. 
This  naturally  caused  the  rivers  to  rise,  and  in  spite 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  179 

of  the  numerous  log  bridges  that  spanned  the  rivers 
and  submerged  tracts,  our  route  was  in  consequence 
considerably  prolonged.  Two  streams,  the  Biabulo 
and  the  Li,  which  during  the  dry  season  are  mere 
rivulets,  now  formed  one  large  lake,  and  though  this 
state  of  affairs  was  evidently  anticipated,  the  bridges 
being  prolonged  on  both  sides  into  a  log  road,  yet 
we  were  obliged  to  wade  for  some  distance  through 
the  brown  water. 

The  few  hours  of  sunshine  that  brightened  these 
rainy  days  were  accompanied  by  an  almost  unbearably 
sultry  heat,  which  favoured  the  development  of  every 
description  of  insect  life.  The  fluttering  of  myriads 
of  gaudy  butterflies,  all  apparently  intent  on  quench- 
ing their  thirst,  produced  an  incomparable  play  of 
colours.  EyitolaSy  attired  in  vivid  blue,  gUttered  Hke 
living  sapphires ;  whole  clouds  of  the  vermiUon-tinted 
Cymoihoe  sangaris  sucked  up  water  from  evil-smelUng 
pools  by  the  roadside,  not  allowing  even  a  passing 
shower  to  interrupt  their  enjoyment ;  while  even  more 
absorbed  in  quenching  their  thirst  were  the  swallow- 
tails {Papilio  machaon),  thronging  the  smallest  puddles 
in  dense,  moving  clouds,  and  permitting  nothing  to 
distract  them  from  their  occupation.  (lUus.  120,  122.) 
All  these  butterflies  were  surpassed  by  the  giant  Anti- 
machus  appearing  for  a  moment  between  the  fronds 
of  the  tree-fern  that  arched  over  the  road,  and  soaring 
away  in  its  wonderful  bird-like  flight  with  a  scarcely 
perceptible  beat  of  its  wings.  Insect-life  was  just 
then  at  its  zenith ;  a  few  days  later  their  numbers 
had  sensibly  diminished,  and  within  a  month  they 
had  died  out.  The  jungle  lay  silent  and  lifeless,  and 
its  vast  glades  seemed  to  contain  no  Uving  thing ; 
even  the  chirping  of  the  grasshoppers  had  ceased. 


180      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

The  nearer  we  came  to  the  most  westerly  point  of 
the  bend  of  the  Djah,  the  more  marked  was  the  influence 
of  the  Bules  on  the  N'yem  tribe,  until  at  length  there 
was  no  visible  difference  in  their  appearance.  The 
tatooing  of  their  bodies  was  exactly  similar  to  that  of 
the  Bules,  as  was  also  the  hairdressing  of  the  women, 
which  was  more  fantastic  than  anything  I  had  seen 
up  to  the  present.    (Illus.  169.) 

Infinite  patience  is  required  for  the  construction 
of  these  works  of  art,  and  the  necessary  adjuncts  are 
multifarious :  rotang  sticks  for  a  foundation,  false 
hair,  vegetable  fibres,  with  nails,  beads  and  buttons 
for  the  trimming.  All  these  various  "  foreign  bodies  " 
are  incorporated  with  the  natural  hair  into  a  coiffure, 
which  must  be  very  uncomfortable  for  the  wearer ; 
it  is  invariably  infested  with  vermin — what  my  Yaunde 
"  boy,"  Elume,  called  "  small  beef  " — and  at  night 
it  must  be  protected  by  resting  the  neck  on  a  specially 
constructed  support.  When,  however,  his  vanity  is 
at  stake,  a  negro  will  submit  to  more  discomforts  than 
the  most  fastidious  European,  his  thick  skin  and 
physical  insensibUity  undoubtedly  playing  an  important 
part. 

One  of  the  most  noteworthy  results  of  Bule  influence 
is  the  introduction  of  the  oil  palm,  which  has,  however, 
not  long  been  cultivated  in  this  district.  In  the  village 
of  Mokumelo  was  the  first  example  of  this  important 
tree  that  I  had  seen  for  many  months,  from  which  we 
may  conclude  that  the  oil  palm  crossed  the  Djah  about 
twenty-five  years  ago,  and  is  very  slowly  penetrating 
towards  the  East. 

It  was  in  Mokumelo,  my  last  halting-place  in  the 
N'yem  district,  that  we  made  preparations  for  traversing 
the  last  uninhabited  jungle  region  that   lay  before  us. 


165.   N'yem  village. 


166.   Stilt  roots. 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  181 

Our  first  consideration  was  to  provide  ourselves  with 
sufficient  provisions  for  our  journey  through  this 
"  dead  "  district,  and  this  was  accompHshed  without 
any  difficulty.  But  I  had  little  confidence  in  the 
promises  of  the  chief  that  he  would  send  out  men  to 
clear  the  road  for  us.  Even  the  Mokumelo  people 
admitted  that  the  road  that  lay  before  me  was  not 
above  reproach. 

I  set  out  on  the  19th  of  May ;  at  first  the  road  did 
not  seem  to  justify  my  fears,  but  half  an  hour  later 
it  began  to  get  steadily  worse.  There  was  not  much 
to  be  seen  of  the  promised  "  road  repairs,"  although 
here  and  there  tree-trunks  had  been  thrown  across 
the  worst  parts  of  the  morass.  A  quarter  of  an  hour 
later  even  these  improvements  came  to  an  end,  and 
we  plunged  resignedly  into  the  appalling  bog,  which 
provided  a  three  days'  martyrdom  for  the  stumbling, 
staggering  bearers.  There  was  no  question  of  marching, 
we  could  only  spring  from  one  root  to  another,  clamber 
over  fallen  trees,  and  balance  our  steps  on  large  branches 
that  lay  in  the  bog,  into  which  we  continually  slipped 
and  fell. 

The  first  two  days  were  the  worst,  and  we  had 
a  long  search  before  we  could  find  a  suitable  camping 
ground.  On  the  second  day  I  was  much  astonished 
when  we  suddenly  emerged  upon  a  small  open  space 
like  the  clearance  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Yendi. 
The  ground  consisted  of  Hchen-covered  slate,  with 
occasional  patches  of  turf  diffusing  a  fragrant  scent 
of  heather ;  there  were  tiny  flowers  among  the  short 
grass,  including  clumps  of  a  blue  Utricularia,  resembHng 
the  butterwort  of  our  European  mountains.  After 
marching  so  long  through  the  gloomy  swamps  of  the 
jungle,  it  was  an  unexpected  pleasure  to  be  once  more 


182      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

on  terra  firma,  and  to  be  able  to  rest  one's  eyes  on  the 
fresh  green  grass.  I  encamped  at  the  edge  of  this 
open  space,  whence  I  enjoyed  a  full  view  of  all  the 
flowering  summits  of  the  tall  forest  trees. 

The  last  stage  of  our  journey  through  the  "  dead  " 
jungle  area  was  characterised  by  a  succession  of  hills 
alternating  with  swampy  depressions,  until,  late  in 
the  afternoon,  we  reached  the  first  Bule  village. 

This  village  was  called  N'lo-Bessege,  and  my  men 
were  by  this  time  so  utterly  exhausted  that  I  was 
obUged  to  give  them  a  day's  rest,  although  the  difficulties 
of  obtaining  sufficient  food  in  this  newly  estabHshed 
outpost  of  the  Bule  district  were  considerable. 

Now  that  we  were  in  Bule  territory  my  zoological 
studies  fell  into  the  background,  and  this  was  also  the 
case  with  regard  to  Mildbraed's  botanical  collecting. 
We  were  in  a  country  that  had  been  cultivated  for  many 
years,  and  where  the  jungle  was  being  cleared  farther 
and  farther  from  the  settlements.  Clean,  well-kept 
Bule  villages  cover  the  landscape  in  every  direction, 
many  of  them  separated  only  by  the  watercourses.  It 
is  only  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers  and  streams  that  the 
original  forest,  with  its  wealth  of  animal  and  plant  life, 
is  still  to  be  found. 

Whereas  in  the  paths  of  the  jungle  we  often  did  not 
know  how  to  make  our  way  through  the  bogs  and 
morasses,  here  we  marched  through  farms  and  villages, 
most  of  them  lying  in  the  shade  of  oil  palms,  and  all 
very  much  ahke.  (lUus.  171.)  The  roads  were  covered 
with  fragrant  Citronella  grass,  and  were  exposed  to 
the  pitiless  rays  of  the  tropical  sun.  Under  these 
circumstances  we  went  forward  as  rapidly  as  possible, 
for  there  was  nothing  worth  collecting  to  be  seen  by 
the  roadside.    Mildbraed,  especially,  found  this  country 


B 
o 

B 
<u 

>• 

Z 


o 
u 


170.    N'vem  girls  on  the  Djah. 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  183 

a  botanical  desert,  and  advanced  so  rapidly  that  he 
caught  me  up  in  Kungulu,  before  I  had  even  reached 
the  Djah. 

From  Kungulu  I  made  an  excursion  to  the  neighbour- 
ing village  of  Bitje,  the  residence  of  an  American  named 
Bates,  who  supplied  the  South  Kensington  Museum 
with  its  best  West  African  curiosities. 

When  the  natives  discovered  that  I  was  collecting 
zoological  specimens,  they  brought  me  all  kinds  of 
animals  in  the  hope  of  receiving  a  reward.  In  particular 
they  brought  large  numbers  of  Goliath  beetles,  with 
their  white  velvet  markings. 

I  had  already  come  across  these  huge  insects  in 
great  quantities  some  years  before,  on  the  Mungo. 
They  showed  the  same  peculiarities  here  in  the  South 
Cameroons,  but  they  appeared  at  a  different  time  of 
year.  These  splendid  beetles  are  always  found  amongst 
the  large-leaved  Vernonia  bushes  growing  at  the  edge 
of  the  jungle.  (lUus.  123.)  They  settle  in  colonies 
on  the  branches  of  this  shrub  in  order  to  feed  on  its 
sap.  They  are  easily  caught  early  in  the  morning ; 
later  on  the  slightest  movement  of  a  branch  is  sufficient 
to  disperse  them,  the  whole  colony  flying  off  with  a 
loud  buzzing.  The  sound  of  their  flight,  even  at  a 
considerable  altitude,  cannot  easily  be  mistaken,  and 
resembles  the  noise  made  by  the  string  of  a  bass-viol 
when  it  is  set  in  vibration.  Mildbraed  compared  it 
to  the  humming  of  an  air- ship's  propellor. 

On  the  28th  of  May  I  took  leave  of  Mildbraed  at 
Kungulu,  and  crossed  the  swollen  waters  of  the  Djah, 
on  the  banks  of  which  the  primeval  forest  stood  for 
some  distance  under  water.  (Fi<^  coloured  illus.)  There 
was  only  one  fragile  canoe  available,  so  that  it  took 
three  hours  to  get  all  our  baggage  across. 


184   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

The  weather  still  showed  no  signs  of  improvement, 
and  all  the  rivers  and  streams  had  overflowed  their 
banks,  thus  causing  us  many  delays.  The  winding 
Libi  River,  in  places  over  three  hundred  feet  wide, 
wliich  I  had  to  cross  many  times  during  the  succeeding 
days,  had  converted  its  banks  into  swamps,  while 
many  streams,  under  normal  conditions  quite  insignifi- 
cant, were  now  so  deep  that,  but  for  the  bridges,  they 
would  have  been  impassible. 

All  these  watercourses  resembled  those  of  the  left 
bank  of  the  Djah,  the  vegetation  bordering  them  was 
similar,  and  they  contained  the  same  brown,  transparent 
water.  This  circumstance  seemed  to  me  to  have  an 
important  geological  bearing,  and  induced  me  to  keep 
an  accurate  record  of  the  characteristics  of  all  the 
watercourses  that  I  encountered.  I  was  thus  able 
to  establish  the  fact  that  they  altered  their  character 
shortly  before  I  reached  Ebolowa,  that  is  to  say,  long 
after  I  had  passed  out  of  the  water-basin  of  the  Congo. 

After  crossing  the  Libi  for  the  first  time,  I  left  the 
main  road,  and  turned  aside  into  the  path  leading 
towards  Bitje.  I  was  disappointed  to  find  that  this 
path  led  through  a  district  that  had  formerly  been 
cultivated ;  within  a  day's  march  of  Bitje,  however, 
I  entered  a  large  Macrolobium  forest,  such  as  I  had 
not  seen  since  leaving  Bangandu.  But  the  hopes 
thus  conjured  up  with  regard  to  the  surroundings  of 
Bitje  were  doomed  to  disappointment,  for  this  famous 
spot  Hes  in  the  midst  of  the  most  uninteresting  agri- 
cultural district  imaginable. 

Mr  Bates,  who  owns  an  extensive  rubber  plantation 
near  Bitje,  was  in  America  at  the  time  of  my  visit, 
so  that  I  was  obHged  to  obtain  my  information  else- 
where.    I  had  not  long  to  wait,  for  soon  after  my 


=1 

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c 
O 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  185 

arrival  I  was  visited  by  some  of  the  village  boys,  to 
whose  collecting  zeal  the  discovery  of  many  botanical 
treasures  is  due.  The  twelve-year-old  son  of  the  chief, 
in  particular,  the  American  collector's  invaluable 
assistant,  was  indefatigable  in  answering  my  questions. 
From  him  I  learned  that  the  time  of  year  was  not 
now  favourable,  but  that  most  of  the  rare  specimens 
had  been  found  in  a  small  wood  close  to  the  village. 
This  wood,  however,  seemed  in  no  way  to  differ  from 
hundreds  that  I  had  already  traversed  during  my 
journey  thither. 

Although  Bitje  by  no  means  fulfilled  my  hopes  as 
a  collecting  centre,  it  afforded  me  a  far  deeper  insight 
into  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  Bules  than  any 
of  the  villages  through  which  I  had  passed. 

In  a  neighbouring  hamlet  I  was  initiated  into  a 
curious  religious  ceremony  of  the  Bules,  adopted,  so  I 
was  informed,  from  the  Pangwes,  and  designated  by 
the  name  of  "  Sso."  I  observed  at  the  side  of  the  road 
a  thickly  plaited  hedge,  which  seemed  to  have  been 
constructed  in  order  to  screen  something  from  view. 
On  the  hedge  was  a  peculiar  carving  representing  a 
hunting  scene,  flanked  on  each  side  by  a  carved  figure, 
one  of  a  man  and  the  other  of  a  woman. 

Samba,  the  foreman  of  my  bearers,  himself  a  Pangwe, 
and  a  tall,  sturdy  fellow,  became  grey  with  terror 
when  I  requested  him  to  investigate  the  place  with  me. 
He  said  that  he  would  immediately  die  if  he  were  to 
do  such  a  thing,  and  prophesied  the  same  fate  for  me 
if  I  paid  no  attention  to  his  warning.  The  villagers, 
however,  seemed  less  nervous,  and  gave  me  permission 
to  investigate  the  place,  as  soon  as  I  had  assured  them 
that  I  possessed  a  potent  remedy  against  its  magic. 

When  I  stepped  behind  the  screen,  I  found  an  open 


186       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

space  on  which  a  small  hut  was  built.  In  front  of  the 
hut  stood  a  few  boys,  about  twelve  years  of  age,  painted 
white  with  kaoUn ;  these  were  the  famous  Sso  boys, 
and  that  was  all  there  was  to  be  seen  !  (Illus.  172.) 
I  learned  from  Samba,  who  was  astonished  to  see  me 
return  alive,  that  the  boys  who  were  dedicated  to  this 
worship  were  obliged  to  spend  four  months  of  every 
year  by  themselves  in  the  Sso  hut,  where  they  were 
guilty  of  every  kind  of  mischief.  Every  evening  they 
assumed  pecuUar  masks,  and  showed  themselves  upon 
the  footpath  in  order  to  frighten  passers-by.  He 
added  that  women  were  never  under  any  circumstances 
permitted  to  visit  this  spot.  This  was  all  the  informa- 
tion that  I  could  extract  from  Samba,  who  was  still 
under  the  influence  of  my  "  dangerous  venture,"  but 
from  the  villagers  I  gathered  that  the  worship  had 
reference  to  some  mysterious  deity.  For  a  considerable 
sum  of  money  I  even  succeeded  in  obtaining  some  of 
the  utensils  connected  with  the  ceremonial,  but  I  could 
not  induce  the  natives  to  sell  me  the  carved  screen. 
If  they  were  to  part  with  it,  they  assured  me  that  the 
Sso  boys  would  infallibly  die.  I  went  on  my  way 
with  my  treasures,  but  Samba  could  not  be  induced 
to  carry  any  of  the  Sso  utensils. 

The  deeply-rooted  superstition  of  the  hunting  tribes, 
of  which  the  Bule  is  the  most  important,  seem  far  to 
surpass  that  of  the  N'yems,  N'dzimus,  or  any  other 
Bantu  tribe ;  on  the  other  hand,  the  former  possess 
many  good  qualities  not  to  be  found  among  the  latter. 
For  instance,  the  agricultural  industry  of  the  Bules, 
and  the  remarkable  cleanUness  of  their  villages,  point 
to  the  high  grade  of  culture  evinced  by  the  hunting 
tribes.  Moreover,  their  physical  development,  together 
with  their  whole  demeanour,  betoken  a  more  civilised 


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^^^^^^^^■^^^^-  '              . ..  ilr  ■-'  V.--- 

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171.    Dule  village. 


172.   So  boys  in  front  of  their  hut. 


173.    Girl  with  double  ebui. 


174.    Bule  maidens. 


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m 

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1 

175.   The  Masesse  rock. 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  187 

race.  Some  of  the  women,  in  particular,  possess 
very  intelligent  faces,  as  well  as  figures  with  the  most 
classical  outline.  (lUus.  174.)  The  Bitje  chieftain's 
wife,  in  spite  of  her  advancing  years,  might  rank  as  a 
beauty,  her  pleasant,  almost  Caucasian,  features  harmon- 
ising admirably  with  her  quiet,  dignified  manner,  so 
that  it  was  hard  to  reaUse  that  I  was  in  the  presence 
of  a  negress.    (Illus.  176,  177.) 

Often  on  a  moonhght  night,  in  camp  or  in  our  village 
quarters,  at  the  close  of  the  day's  work,  I  had  watched 
with  interest  the  dancing  of  the  Bule  bearers,  but  the 
dances  that  I  witnessed  here  in  their  own  land  were 
even  more  striking.  The  songs  that  accompanied  the 
dancing  were  wonderfully  melodious,  and  gave  evidence 
of  the  trained  ear  for  music  which  is  a  characteristic 
of  all  the  hunting  tribes. 

My  Bule  natives  were  continually  praising  the 
superiority  of  their  country,  of  which  they  were  inordin- 
ately proud,  and  in  many  respects  I  was  obliged  to 
agree  with  them.  This  cultivated  region,  although 
barren  from  the  scientist's  point  of  view,  was  very 
pleasant  to  travel  in.  There  were  none  of  the  difficulties 
of  obtaining  provisions  which  elsewhere  often  occa- 
sioned the  greatest  anxiety ;  here  the  rich  plantations 
were  more  than  sufficient  for  the  wants  of  my  bearers. 
There  was  a  profusion  of  bananas ;  beautiful  pineapples 
could  be  purchased  for  a  few  pence,  and  fresh  eggs 
were  very  plentiful. 

The  travelling  facihties  that  we  enjoyed  were  certainly 
due  in  part  to  the  admirable  organisation  regulated 
by  the  authorities  at  Ebolowa,  the  government  station. 
Every  chief  was  suppUed  with  a  small  book,  containing 
all  the  information  that  could  possibly  be  required 
by  the  European  traveller :    the  names  of  the  tribe, 


188      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

of  the  village,  and  of  the  chief,  and,  above  all,  the  exact 
price  of  the  provisions  grown  in  the  district,  thus 
facilitating  the  negotiations  as  to  the  correct  payment 
for  the  food  supphed. 

After  leaving  Bitje  we  traversed  a  district  covered 
with  flourishing  banana  and  manioc  plantations,  well- 
kept  villages,  and  broad,  sunny  roads,  interrupted  only 
by  brown  streams,  each  of  which  were  spanned  by 
log  bridges. 

On  the  2nd  of  June,  soon  after  we  had  regained  the 
main  road  to  Ebolowa,  and  had  passed  through  the 
village  of  Le,  four  lofty  mountains  suddenly  came  into 
view.  They  disappeared  behind  the  trees,  reappearing 
at  intervals.  At  last  we  were  close  to  the  foot  of 
the  Djukun  Mountain,  when  suddenly  my  interest 
was  diverted  to  a  huge,  bare  rock,  rising  up  on  our 
left  in  the  middle  of  the  forest.  (Illus.  175.)  The 
name  of  this  immense  granite  rock  is  Masesse,  and  it 
excited  my  curiosity  to  such  an  extent  that  I  set  out 
at  once  to  climb  to  the  top.  At  times  I  was  obliged 
to  scramble  up  on  all  fours,  and  finally  I  had  to  crawl 
through  a  narrow  tunnel  in  pitch  darkness,  whence 
I  emerged  into  the  sunlight.  The  sparkling  rock 
glowed  under  the  rays  of  the  sun,  covered  here  and 
there  by  strange  mountain  plants  and  by  cushions 
of  pineapples  that  must  have  come  here  by  accident 
and  then  propagated  themselves.  The  weather  had 
separated  the  upper  layers  of  the  rock,  which  lay  in 
thick  scales  on  the  main  mass,  sounding  beneath  our 
feet  like  a  cracked  bell. 

There  is  a  wonderful  view  from  the  top  of  this  rugged 
mass  of  stone.  In  the  foreground  rise  the  grim  outUnes 
of  the  Masesse  itself,  behind  which  the  jungle  unfolds 
itself  in  all  its  exotic  beauty.    The  eye  strays  over 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  189 

the  summits  of  the  giant  trees,  until  it  rests  on  the 
imposing  mountains  in  the  background :  the  Djukun, 
the  still  loftier  M'bang,  in  the  direction  of  Sangmelima, 
and  many  other  peaks. 

My  boots  were  not  adapted  for  mountaineering,  so 
that  it  was  out  of  the  question  to  try  and  reach 
the  highest  point,  which  was  separated  from  me  by  a 
deep  cleft.  A  villager  told  me  many  interesting  facts 
regarding  this  "  entrance  into  another  world,"  which 
I  proceeded  to  investigate  as  closely  as  possible.  I 
encountered  a  cold  blast  of  air  and  a  peculiar  mouldy 
smell.  None  of  the  Bule  natives  who  had  accompanied 
me  could  be  induced  to  follow  me  any  further.  I  slid 
cautiously  towards  the  shppery  walls  of  the  "  chimney," 
which  was  quite  dark.  There  was  a  loud  rushing  noise 
due  to  the  numerous  bats  that  flew  away  as  I  approached. 
However,  I  was  soon  obliged  to  turn  back,  as  there  was 
nothing  further  to  be  seen,  and  every  step  without  a 
lantern  was  fraught  with  danger. 

It  was  no  easy  task  to  distinguish  the  truth  from 
the  fantastic  tales  of  the  natives.  In  the  village  I 
learned  that  there  were  one  or  two  people  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood who  were  acquainted  with  a  subterranean 
path  leading  out  of  the  Masesse,  and  that,  after  crawling 
and  sliding  along  it  for  an  hour,  they  had  come  out  upon 
an  open  grass-grown  space.  It  was,  however,  very  easy 
to  lose  one's  way,  as  there  were  many  holes  and 
pools. 

I  instructed  the  chief  to  find  me  a  man  who,  in 
consideration  for  a  generous  reward,  would  be  willing 
to  show  me  the  way  through  the  Masesse,  and  in  the 
meantime  I  made  the  ascent  of  the  Djukun. 

The  Djukun  is  famous  on  account  of  the  numerous 
chimpanzees    by    which   it   is   inhabited.    I    did   not 


190      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

succeed  in  catching  sight  of  any  of  these  animals,  though 
I  repeatedly  heard  them  roaring.  I  also  found  several 
of  their  nests,  which  consist  of  a  heap  of  branches 
wedged  into  the  fork  of  a  tree. 

The  following  morning  I  rose  early  in  order  to  attempt 
the  passage  of  the  subterranean  path.  From  the  top 
of  the  rock  my  guide  pointed  out  the  grass  patch  on 
to  which  it  opened,  and  I  reaUsed  at  once  that  the 
native  imagination  had  played  a  considerable  part  in 
the  narrative  of  the  previous  day,  for  the  exit  was 
quite  close  to  the  foot  of  the  rock.  I  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  it  would  be  much  easier  to  negotiate 
the  chimney  from  below  upwards,  and  I  accordingly 
made  my  way  to  the  famous  grass  patch.  The  rain 
was  falhng  in  torrents,  but  I  soon  made  out  the  lower 
opening  in  the  rock.  The  chimney  was  full  of  bats, 
of  which  I  killed  seven  at  one  shot.  By  the  Hght  of 
two  lanterns  we  began  the  ascent,  and  after  ten  minutes' 
hard  climbing  we  reached  the  top.  The  passage  was 
unpleasant  rather  than  dangerous,  and  my  clothes 
suffered  so  severely  from  the  bat  guano  that  I  must 
have  looked  as  if  I  had  been  bathing  in  a  bog. 

In  most  unfavourable  weather  we  continued  our 
journey  the  same  day.  The  road  was  converted  into 
a  brick-red  coloured  pond,  the  soil  being  so  impervious 
that  the  rain  could  not  penetrate.  The  rain-clouds 
hung  about  the  mountain  tops,  and  broke  at  short 
intervals  in  heavy  showers.  I  therefore  made  up  my 
mind  to  spend  the  night  in  the  little  village  of  Asen, 
our  last  encampment  before  reaching  Sangmelima. 

The  sun  was  shining  when  we  set  off  the  next  morning 
in  the  direction  of  Sangmelima,  but  the  atmosphere 
was  so  oppressive  that  I  felt  sure  the  rainy  season 
was  not  yet  at  an  end.     After  marching  for  several 


176.   Dule  woman  Menge  from  Ditje. 


:^ 


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^i 


177.    Dule  woman. 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  191 

hours  we  caught  sight  of  the  station,  which  stands 
on  a  hill,  and  is  surrounded  by  cultivated  fields  and 
india-rubber  plantations.  On  arrival  I  was  received 
by  Lieutenant  Harttmann,  the  head  of  this  important 
station,  and  by  Mildbraed,  who  had  arrived  three  days 
before  me. 

There  was  a  great  deal  to  be  done  during  my  stay 
in  Sangmelima  ;  some  of  the  bearers  had  to  be  paid  off 
and  others  engaged  in  their  place.  Mildbraed  was,  of 
course,  ready  first,  and  on  the  7th  of  June  he  set  off 
once  more  on  the  broad  caravan  road. 

1  would  gladly  have  spent  some  time  longer  in 
the  comfortable  station  house,  but  I  could  not  delay 
my  journey  when  once  I  had  secured  the  requisite 
number  of  bearers.  On  the  9th  of  June  I  took  leave 
of  Lieutenant  Harttmann,  and  started  on  the  road 
leading  to  Ebolowa. 

As  I  travelled  towards  the  West  the  country  lost 
its  table-land  character,  and  the  "  akoms,"  or  isolated 
masses  of  rock,  which  became  every  day  more  frequent, 
prepared  me  to  a  certain  extent  for  the  picturesque 
mountains  that  lay  before  me. 

On  the  first  day's  march  after  leaving  SangmeHma 
Undene  remarked  as  we  crossed  a  small  stream,  ""  Massa, 
now  them  Congo  Bush  be  finished !  "  He  meant  that 
the  rivulet  which  we  had  crossed  was  the  last  that 
belonged  to  the  Congo  basin,  and  on  consulting  the 
map  I  found  that  he  was  right. 

It  is  characteristic  of  the  natives  that  they  are  usually 
well  acquainted  with  the  directions  of  the  mountain 
ranges,  and  still  more  with  the  course  of  the  rivers. 
Mountains,  rivers,  forests  and  villages  are  the  only  land- 
marks that  exist  for  the  wandering  negroes.  If  the 
traveller  inquires  how  far  it  is  to  such  and  such  a  place, 


192      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

he  is  not  much  the  wiser  when  he  is  told  the  distance 
is  so  many  hills,  waters,  bushes  or  towns. 

It  had  become  known  among  the  natives  that  I 
was  collecting  ethnological  specimens,  and  they  brought 
me,  in  consequence,  all  the  household  utensils  that  they 
could  spare,  hoping  that  I  would  buy  them.  Like  all 
the  hunting  tribes,  they  were  very  skilful  at  wood- 
carving,  and  some  of  the  things  they  brought  me  were 
most  elaborately  ornamented. 

In  other  matters,  too,  the  Rules  were  exceedingly 
friendly  ;  they  endeavoured  to  answer  all  my  questions, 
and  stood  patiently  while  I  sketched  them.  They 
are  skilled  in  the  art  of  tatooing,  and  although  there 
are  certain  conventional  designs  that  continually  recur, 
the  artist's  fancy  always  introduces  new  variations, 
and  no  two  patterns  are  exactly  alike.     (lUus.  179.) 

The  women,  too,  are  most  artistic  in  the  way  they 
dress  their  hair  (illus.  167,  181),  and  although  the 
coiffures  of  other  hunting  tribes,  especially  the  Pangwes, 
are  often  more  fantastic,  they  are  never  as  artistic  as 
the  "  ram's  horn  "  erections  of  the  Rules.  The  latter, 
combined  with  the  graceful  ehuis,  set  off  to  perfection 
the  beauty  of  their  dark  brown  figures.  (Illus.  178, 
and  coloured  illus.,  page  162.) 

On  the  12th  of  June,  from  the  village  of  Ababita  I 
caught  sight  for  the  first  time  of  the  beautiful  moun- 
tain scenery  surrounding  Ebolowa,  and  the  distant 
peaks  wrapped  in  a  blue  mist.  As  we  approached 
Ebolowa  the  influence  of  European  culture  grew  more 
and  more  clearly  visible.  In  the  villages  native  work- 
men, trained  by  American  missionaries  in  Ebolowa, 
had  provided  the  houses  with  well-fitting  doors,  and 
other  civilised  contrivances. 

After  climbing  a  long  hill,  we  reached  the  clean, 


ASSOBAM  TO  EBOLOWA  193 

recently  built  village  of  Ekuk,  where  we  spent  the 
night,  and  the  following  day  we  arrived  in  Ebolowa. 

I  had  heard  that  it  was  a  very  beautiful  town,  but 
all  my  expectations  fell  short  of  the  reality.  It  certainly 
surpasses  every  other  station  in  the  Caraeroons  that  I 
have  ever  seen,  and  the  charm  of  its  surroundings  is 
enhanced  by  every  possible  device  of  architecture  and 
landscape  gardening. 

Mildbraed  had  arrived  several  days  before  me,  and  I 
was  glad  to  recognise  an  old  acquaintance  in  Lieutenant 
von  Heigelin,  the  governor  of  the  station.  We  spent 
several  delightful  evenings  in  his  comfortable  house 
and  in  that  of  the  station  physician,  Dr  Eckert.  Both 
these  gentlemen  vied  with  one  another  in  making  life 
in  Ebolowa  so  pleasant  that  we  were  quite  sorry  to 
take  leave  of  them,  when  at  last  all  our  preparations 
were  complete  and  we  could  set  out  on  the  final  stage 
of  our  journey  towards  the  coast. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

MARCHING   FROM   EBOLOWA   TO   THE   COAST 

Our  Bule  carriers,  who  for  nine  months  had  pluckily 
endured  all  the  hardships  and  fatigues  of  the  journey, 
and  who  were  now  once  more  in  their  own  country, 
could  hardly  be  expected  to  proceed  with  us  to  the 
coast.  All  our  persuasions  failed  to  induce  them  to 
forego  the  pleasure  of  immediately  rejoining  their 
relatives,  after  what  was  in  their  eyes  an  interminably 
long  absence.  On  the  day  following  that  of  our  arrival 
in  Ebolowa  they  received  their  well-earned  salaries, 
and,  with  few  exceptions,  returned  to  their  homes. 
The  most  notable  exception  was  Mildbraed's  faithful 
Ekomeno,  who,  from  the  rank  of  overseer  of  the 
bearers,  had  risen  to  that  of  "  botanical  assistant  " 
and  factotum,  and  who  agreed  to  accompany  us  as 
far  as  Annobon. 

We  should  have  had  no  difficulty  in  securing  the 
requisite  number  of  bearers  to  accompany  us  to  the 
coast  in  the  usual  time,  and  by  the  ordinary  route, 
via  N'gomakak  ;  this,  however,  was  not  our  intention. 
IMildbraed  wished  to  make  some  suitable  spot  on  the 
road  to  Kribi  his  headquarters  for  a  systematic  botanical 
exploration  of  the  mountains  near  the  coast.  For  my 
part  I  had  set  myself  a  task,  to  accompHsh  which  I 
must  travel  to  the  coast  by  a  circuitous  route. 

I  had  noticed  on  the  maps  at  my  disposal,  just  where 
the  N'tem  (Campo)  River  reaches  its  most  northerly 

IM 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  195 

point,  a  mountain  stated  to  be  over  five  thousand  feet 
high,  which  seemed  to  me  to  be  worth  exploring.  It 
is  true  that  Herr  Hoffmann,  the  manager  of  a  factory 
at  Ebolowa,  beHeved  this  mountain,  marked  on  the 
map  as  N'kolumbinde,  to  be  non-existent.  I  decided, 
however,  that  this  almost  unknown  district  was  worth 
exploring,  even  if  the  results  proved  negative.  There 
was,  in  any  case,  an  interesting  geographical  problem 
to  be  solved. 

Whilst  waiting  for  the  necessary  number  of  bearers 
to  be  collected,  our  time  was  fully  occupied  in  many 
important  matters.  Everything  that  could  be  dispensed 
with  on  the  last  stage  of  the  journey  had  to  be  sent 
direct  to  the  coast,  and  it  took  a  long  time  to  pack  up, 
in  waterproof  material,  all  our  superfluous  baggage 
as  well  as  our  collections. 

On  the  20th  of  June  Mildbraed  returned  to  the  village 
of  Ekuk,  in  order  to  collect  further  botanical  specimens 
from  the  wooded  slopes  in  that  neighbourhood,  while 
topographical  studies  detained  me  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  Ebolowa. 

On  my  arrival  I  had  been  struck  by  the  rocky  Akak,  a 
rugged,  wooded  mountain  of  forbidding  aspect,  forming 
the  background  of  the  station,  and  the  loftiest  mountain 
in  the  immediate  neighbourhood.  I  estimated  its 
height  at  from  3500  to  4000  feet,  but  was  anxious 
to  measure  it  accurately  by  means  of  a  boihng-point 
thermometer  and  aneroid. 

This  mountain  was  said  never  to  have  been  ascended 
by  a  European,  and  in  spite  of  its  apparently  convenient 
situation,  the  ascent  proved  not  nearly  so  easy  as  I 
had  anticipated.  The  thick  covering  of  trees  made 
it  very  difficult  to  judge  from  a  distance  the  best  place 
at  which  to  start  climbing.    The  indefatigable  Undene 


196      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

was  of  the  greatest  assistance  to  me,  in  going  on  ahead 
to  investigate. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Akak  occupied  a  whole  morning 
and  was  a  most  fatiguing  undertaking.  The  descent 
actually  took  half  an  hour  longer  than  the  ascent, 
owing  to  the  slopes  being  so  steep  and  sHppery.  During 
the  Bule  rising  this  mountain  was  used  as  a  refuge 
by  the  natives,  and  the  remains  of  camp  fires  were 
still  visible  under  some  of  the  overhanging  rocks. 
The  measurements  that  I  took  showed  how  easy  it  is 
to  overestimate  the  height  of  an  isolated  and  steep 
mountain,  for  the  Akak  proved  to  be  only  2950  feet 

There  were  one  or  two  interesting  varieties  among 
the  few  plants  that  I  brought  back  from  the  summit  of 
Mount  Akak.  Mildbraed  was  specially  interested  in 
a  pecuUar  stemless  plant,  Raphia  regalis  Becc.^  which 
grew  only  on  the  highest  part  of  the  mountain,  above 
the  sparse  underwood. 

On  the  27th  of  June  all  the  preparations  for  my 
journey  were  complete,  and  after  taking  leave  of  my 
kind  hosts,  I  set  off  towards  the  South.  Mildbraed 
had  not  yet  returned  from  Ekuk.  Herr  Hoffmann 
accompanied  me  for  some  distance,  as  far  as  a  young 
Hevea  plantation  belonging  to  him.  The  size  and 
fiom-ishing  condition  of  the  little  trees  showed  how 
superior  this  india-rubber  plant  is  to  the  indigenous 
Kickxia. 

So  far  the  road  led  through  a  flat,  cultivated  district, 
but  from  this  point  onwards  the  country  was  undulating, 
and  on  the  horizon  rose  a  few  isolated  hills.  The 
villages  were  of  the  same  character  as  those  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Ebolowa,  although  on  the  very 
first  day's  march  we  entered  the  country  inhabited 


178.   Coiffure  of  a  Bule  woman. 


tAyy<^C^ 


(jliA^UJi^. 


179.   Tattooing  of  a  Dule  man. 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA     197 

by  the  Pangwes,  two  sub-tribes  of  which,  the  M'weis 
and  the  N'tums,  are  found  in  the  Ebolowa  district. 
During  the  following  weeks  I  came  into  close  touch 
with  the  M'weis  and  thus  became  more  closely 
acquainted  with  the  pecuHar  Pangwe  race. 

Before  I  reached  my  first  encampment  in  the  Pangwe 
country,  I  accidently  met  in  his  own  village.  Samba, 
the  bearers'  overseer  who  had  recently  been  paid  off. 
He  had  spent  the  money  he  had  earned  in  getting 
married,  that  is  to  say,  in  buying  a  wife,  and  conse- 
quently he  was  neither  able  nor  wilUng  to  help  me  in 
collecting  specimens.  He  was  not  apparently  too  well 
pleased  to  see  me,  for  he  had  boasted  so  much  about  his 
"  town,"  which,  according  to  his  account,  was  the  finest 
in  the  whole  Ebolowa  district.  As  a  matter  of  fact 
Samba's  "  town  "  was  a  wretched  hole,  Hke  most  of 
the  villages  in  that  neighbourhood. 

As  I  approached  Mapfut,  where  I  intended  to  spend 
the  night,  all  the  inhabitants  ran  away  in  a  panic, 
being  apparently  under  the  impression  that  I  was  an 
official  seeking  workmen  for  the  construction  of  the 
railway.  Such  was  their  terror  that  they  threw  away 
anything  that  might  hinder  them  in  their  headlong 
flight.  We  called  them  back,  but  in  vain.  In  the 
preceding  village  no  one  had  remained  excepting  a 
little  sick  girl,  who  had  been  brutally  abandoned  to 
her  fate.  Late  in  the  evening  a  native  ventured  to 
return,  and  although  I  had  seen  with  my  own  eyes 
the  flight  of  the  villagers,  he  assured  me  that  they 
had  all  gone  to  work  in  Ebolowa.  I  had  been  obliged 
to  send  for  provisions  for  my  men  from  the  farms, 
so  I  paid  money  for  our  board  and  lodging  to  this 
solitary  representative  of  the  inhabitants. 

Tlie  native  hatred  of  the  railway  works  is  due  to 


198       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

the  fact  that  the  workmen  are  obliged  to  leave  their 
homes  for  a  long  time,  and  also  to  the  high  mortality 
which  always  occurs  among  negroes  working  on  the  rail- 
way. On  the  morning  of  my  departure  from  Ebolowa 
I  saw  a  hundred  native  workmen  starting  for  the 
railway  works.  The  farewell  scenes  were  heartrending ; 
for  a  long  time  those  left  behind  stood  watching  the 
disappearing  gang  of  workmen,  and  many  of  them 
were  as  overcome  with  grief  as  if  their  departing 
friends  were  never  to  return. 

After  leaving  the  village  of  Belun,  I  came  to  a  thinly 
populated  district,  with  ill-kept  paths,  in  which  the 
jungle  had  gained  the  upper  hand.  Here  I  found  a 
marvellous  wealth  of  Hanas  of  every  possible  description, 
amongst  them  the  largest  rotangs  that  I  had  ever  seen ; 
they  formed  entire  thickets,  and  their  cables  were  as 
thick  as  a  man's  arm.    (Illus.  184.) 

The  scenery  was  magnificent  in  the  mountainous 
M'bokum  country,  which  we  reached  soon  after  crossing 
a  tributary  of  the  N'tem,  the  M'wila,  which  is  only 
thirty  feet  -wide,  but  fully  ten  feet  deep.  In  this 
district  we  again  saw  the  jungle  in  all  its  luxuriant 
beauty.  But  animal  life  seemed  to  be  extinct,  there  was 
not  even  the  chirping  of  a  grasshopper  to  be  heard, 
and  from  this  point  onwards  I  made  very  few  additions 
to  my  zoological  collection. 

There  was,  however,  plenty  of  material  for  my 
ethnological  studies.  I  pitched  my  tent  in  the  jungle, 
and  during  the  two  days  that  I  spent  there,  I  was 
visited  by  Pangwe  women  from  the  neighbouring 
villages,  who,  when  they  had  overcome  their  timidity, 
offered  to  sell  me  their  beautifully  worked  necklets 
and  anklets.  The  most  interesting  curiosities,  namely, 
their  elaborately  dressed  hair,  I  could  not  of  course 


C   3 

o  o 
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CC 


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C1.-Q; 

f 

MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  199 

obtain.  These  women  seemed  to  have  worked  into 
these  erections  of  hair  the  whole  of  their  wealth  with 
the  exception  of  their  heavy  brass  necklets  and  anklets. 

The  coiffures  of  these  Pangwe  women  are  real  works 
of  art,  and  could  scarcely  be  surpassed  in  extravagance. 
(Illus.  186-189,  and  coloured  plate.)  Most  of  them 
are  shaped  Hke  the  steel  helmets  of  the  Plantagenet 
period,  and  are  adorned  with  mosaic  patterns  of  beads, 
buttons,  nails,  and  cowrie  shells.  From  each  temple  a 
band  of  hair  is  brought  forward  and  drawn  through 
the  pierced  cartilages  of  the  nose.  Sometimes  these 
bands  are  so  elaborately  adorned  with  beads  that  at  a 
distance  they  resemble  a  military  chin- strap  worn  in 
the  English  fashion.  Each  village  has  its  own  style 
of  hairdressing ;  for  instance  in  one  case  I  saw  long 
plaits,  six  feet  in  length,  adorned  with  cowrie-shells 
and  brass  rings,  and  habitually  worn  twisted  round 
the  neck. 

Obviously  the  construction  of  these  works  of  art 
must  take  a  very  long  time.  Women  are  not  considered 
sufficiently  skilful,  and  all  the  hairdressing  is  entrusted 
to  a  few  men,  who  receive  a  fixed  sum  for  each  coiffure. 
(Illus.  190.) 

When  I  left  Ebolowa  I  was  told  that  I  could  certainly 
count  on  fine  and  dry  weather  for  my  journey.  But 
the  weather  conditions  of  the  South  Cameroons  seemed 
anxious  to  prove  how  incorrectly  they  had  been  judged. 
July,  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  dryest  month  in  the 
whole  year,  proved  the  wettest  that  I  have  ever  experi- 
enced. On  the  2nd  of  July  a  continuous  downpour 
set  in,  and  two  days  later  in  the  village  of  Okoa,  the 
rain  was  still  falhng  in  torrents.  When  I  started 
the  next  day,  the  sky  was  overcast,  and  in  the  evening 
I  had  scarcely  pitched  my  tent  at  Aseng  when  another 


200      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

storm  overtook  us,  the  rain  falling  in  sheets,  so  that 
I  had  some  difficulty  in  saving  my  tent  from  being 
washed  away.  When  the  rain  had  ceased  it  began 
to  thunder,  and  the  lightning  continued  at  intervals 
throughout  the  night.  The  atmosphere  was  so  moist 
that  my  water-colours  became  liquid,  and  even  at  the 
height  of  the  rainy  season  I  had  never  had  such  difficulty 
in  keeping  my  belongings  dry.  To  add  to  my  mis- 
fortunes, my  right  wrist  was  swollen  and  painful  owing 
to  an  attack  of  rheumatism. 

But  we  were  not  yet  at  the  end  of  our  difficulties, 
and  the  next  day  was  the  most  exhausting  that  I 
ever  remember.  The  sky  was  overcast  when  we  set 
off  soon  after  nine  o'clock,  and  the  N'kolengondum 
Mountain,  at  the  foot  of  which  Ues  Aseng,  was  wrapped 
in  thick  clouds.  According  to  the  map  the  next  stage 
of  our  journey  seemed  comparatively  short  and  easy, 
but  if  I  had  reaUsed  the  difficulties  that  lay  before  us, 
I  should  have  taken  a  supply  of  food  from  Aseng, 
and  encamped  for  the  night  in  the  jungle.  Soon  after 
passing  the  village  of  Akom,  we  entered  the  forest ; 
the  ground  was  very  boggy,  and  everything  seemed 
gloomy  and  depressing  in  the  absence  of  sunshine. 
After  wading  through  the  morass  for  about  two  hours, 
we  reached  the  foot  of  the  N'kololoma  Mountains ; 
another  hour's  climbing  brought  us  to  the  pass,  about 
five  hundred  feet  below  the  highest  summit.  The  descent 
on  the  other  side  was  far  worse  than  the  ascent,  and 
it  is  incomprehensible  to  me  how  this  road  Avith  a 
slope  of  thirty  to  forty  degrees  can  have  ranked  for 
so  long  as  a  main  road. 

On  the  further  side  of  the  mountain  we  came  to 
the  Loma  River,  and  great  was  our  disappointment 
to  find  nothing  but  abandoned  villages  in  place  of  those 


5 

o 

:3 


> 
o 

Xi 

UJ 


CO 

c 

(0 

ex, 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  201 

marked  on  the  map.  The  forsaken  village  sites  had  a 
melancholy  aspect,  and  they  seemed  to  be  the  favourite 
playground  of  elephants,  tracks  of  which  we  had  already 
seen  in  the  forest.  Everything  was  trampled  and 
torn  down,  and  in  the  whole  banana  plantation  there 
was  not  a  branch  intact,  the  elephants  having  run  riot 
to  their  hearts'  content.  Probably  all  this  devastation 
was  the  work  of  but  a  few  animals,  though  to  the 
uninitiated  it  would  appear  to  be  due  to  a  large  herd. 

A  storm  overtook  us  just  as  we  reached  these  deserted 
villages,  and  in  five  minutes  we  were  soaked  to  the  skin. 
We  knew  that  it  would  take  us  at  least  an  hour  to  reach 
our  camping  place,  and  the  worst  obstacle  still  lay 
before  us  in  the  shape  of  the  Loma  River,  now  a  raging 
torrent,  far  overflowing  its  banks.  The  only  bridge 
was  one  of  the  usual  slippery  tree-trunks,  which  on 
this  occasion  was  a  foot  under  water.  It  was  with 
the  greatest  difficulty  that  I  managed  to  keep  my 
balance  and  avoid  falling  into  the  river.  The  negroes 
fared  better ;  their  bare  feet  seemed  to  cling  like 
suckers,  and  they  reached  the  further  bank  with  com- 
parative ease.  Then  followed  an  hour's  march  in 
pouring  rain,  which  ceased  only  at  nightfall,  just  as 
my  tent  was  being  pitched  in  the  village  of  Endendem. 

I  sat  up  for  some  time  endeavouring  to  dry  my 
things  by  means  of  a  few  candles,  and  thus  prevent 
them  from  being  utterly  spoiled.  I  was  obliged  also 
to  take  care  of  my  health,  since  my  rheumatism  was 
once  more  causing  me  great  pain.  Under  these  cir- 
cumstances Undene  and  Musa  did  not  receive  much 
encouragement  from  me  when  they  suggested  that 
we  should  stalk  elephants — "  plenty  beef  "  was  the 
expression  they  used — the  next  morning  at  dawn. 
The  sun   was   shining  the   following   day,    so  we  en- 


mt      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

deavoured  to  dry  our  belongings  in  the  village  street, 
but  in  spite  of  the  stifling  heat  the  air  was  so 
saturated  with  moisture  that  all  our  efforts  were  in 
vain. 

In  other  respects,  too,  our  stay  in  tliis  village  was 
not  particularly  pleasant.  The  chieftains  of  the 
surrounding  villages,  from  whom  I  sought  to  obtain 
supplies  for  my  men,  and  who  seemed  to  have  a  very 
good  opinion  of  themselves,  displayed  but  little  alacrity 
to  do  my  bidding.  They  made  excuses  for  the  scantiness 
of  their  provisions,  saying  that  they  cultivated  only 
the  minimum  of  fields  on  account  of  the  devastations 
of  the  elephants.  I  was  inclined  to  beUeve  them, 
having  myself  seen  evidences  of  the  destructiveness 
of  these  animals,  whenever  the  negroes,  through 
native  indolence,  neglected  the  simplest  precautionary 
measures,  such  as  beating  drums  by  night  or  setting 
a  watch. 

As  I  approached  the  "  heights  of  N'kolumbinde  "  of 
which  I  had  heard  so  much,  I  was  full  of  cmriosity 
as  to  the  results  of  my  investigation.  I  felt  increasingly 
sceptical  with  regard  to  the  altitude  ascribed  to  them 
on  the  map,  for  the  natives  did  not  apparently  look 
upon  them  as  the  highest  mountain  range  of  the  district. 
In  answer  to  the  inquiries  that  I  made  in  almost  every 
village,  I  was  invariably  informed  that  Mount  N'kolo- 
loma,  which  I  had  ascertained  two  days  ago  to  be 
3000  feet  in  height,  was  the  loftiest  mountain  in  the 
neighbourhood.  It  appeared,  moreover,  that  the 
country  sloped  imperceptibly  downwards  as  I  advanced, 
judging  by  the  measurements  that  I  had  taken  at 
regular  intervals.  It  was  possible  that  the  approaching 
marked  differentiation  between  mountain  and  valley 
had  been  responsible  for  the  erroneous  estimates,  no 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA     203 

European  having  so  far  made  the  ascent  of  any  one 
of  these  mountains. 

In  another  direction,  however,  my  observations  led 
me  to  anticipate  a  geographical  surprise.  Ever  since 
leaving  the  village  of  Okoa  on  the  3rd  of  July,  I  had 
noticed  a  remarkable  change  in  the  flora,  chiefly  as 
regards  the  pecuHar  constitution  of  the  forest  under- 
growth, in  which  there  predominated  at  intervals  a 
charming  httle  palm  Podococcus  Barteri,  often  to  the 
exclusion  of  all  other  plants.    (lUus.  192.) 

After  leaving  Endendem,  I  entered  upon  another 
vast,  cultivated  region,  containing  numerous  villages. 
Oil  palms  were  here  more  numerous ;  they  had  evidently 
been  introduced  within  the  last  few  years,  and  the  oil 
was  expressed  from  the  fruit  by  means  of  a  simple  but 
very  ingenious  device.  (Illus.  182.)  An  excellent  road 
led  through  this  district,  the  most  southerly  means  of 
approach  to  the  vast  rubber  country  in  the  interior  of 
Campo.  A  considerable  caravan  traffic  gave  evidence  of 
the  importance  of  this  road,  and  I  even  met  some 
Europeans. 

Under  these  circumstances,  I  was  all  the  more  sur- 
prised at  an  amusing  episode,  similar  to  one  that  befell 
me  some  years  ago  in  the  Vere  Mountains,  south  of 
Yola.  I  had  pitched  my  tent  in  the  village  of  Sebito, 
when  a  native  woman,  carrying  in  her  arms  a  screaming 
infant,  made  her  appearance,  explaining  that  she  was 
anxious  to  see  a  white  man ;  she  had  never  before 
come  within  speaking  distance  of  one  of  these  strange 
beings,  having  always  run  away  on  the  approach  of  a 
European.  On  this  occasion,  however,  her  curiosity 
had  got  the  better  of  her  fear.  She  minutely  investi- 
gated my  person  as  well  as  my  tent,  and  when  I  had 
rewarded  this  brave  Pangwe  woman's  thirst  for  know- 


204      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

ledge  by  giving  her  a  bead  necklace,  there  suddenly 
appeared  upon  the  scene  a  whole  crowd  of  old  women, 
all  of  whom  declared  that  they  had  never  before  seen 
a  white  man.  I  was  inclined  to  suspect  that  their 
interest  concerned  my  chest  of  wares  for  exchange, 
rather  than  my  person.  I  took  this  opportunity  of 
increasing  my  knowledge  of  Pangwe  customs ;  my 
ethnological  studies  had  of  late  been  relegated  to  the 
background,  as  my  whole  time  had  been  occupied  with 
geographical  research.  I  was  specially  absorbed  in 
the  problem  of  the  "  N'kolumbinde  Mountain,"  which 
must  of  necessity  be  solved  within  the  next  few  days. 

Soon  after  leaving  Sebito  I  marched  for  a  whole 
day  through  a  district  which  recalled  the  plateau  of 
the  Upper  Djah.  During  the  preceding  night  several 
thunderstorms  had  broken  over  my  camp,  their  presence 
being  obviously  due  to  the  proximity  of  the  mountains. 
In  the  morning  the  landscape  was  entirely  hidden  by 
fog.  At  the  same  time  the  heat  was  so  great  that  I 
felt  as  if  I  were  in  a  Turkish  bath.  When  at  last  the 
fog  cleared,  I  realised  that  the  depression  immedi- 
ately behind  Sebito  was  part  of  a  vast  alluvial  plain, 
about  twelve  hundred  feet  in  height,  from  which  the 
mountains  receded,  and  which  was  covered  with  swamps 
and  splendid  jungle  vegetation.  This  was  the  nature 
of  the  country  until  I  reached  the  large  village  of 
Bienemayong,  and  here  I  had  to  make  up  my  mind  with 
regard  to  the  last  stage  of  my  journey  to  the  coast. 

Bienemayong  lies  in  immediate  proximity  to  the 
mountainous  district,  in  exploring  which  I  hoped  to 
find  the  solution  of  the  problem  on  which  I  was  engaged. 

I  had  two  roads  from  which  to  choose.  One  led 
through  Pfanemakok,  and  would  probably  have  afforded 
me  a  rapid  solution  of  my  geographical  problem ;    I 


ll 

^^■ii^zy^'-^ 

t^^^Y'k^s^: 

184.    Rattan  thicket. 


185.   Rock  mass  with  globular  cactus-like  efflorescence. 

The  boys  Musa  and  Elume. 


186.    Pangwe  women  with  helmet 
coiffure. 


187.    Pangwe  woman  with  helmet 
coiffure. 


188.   Pangwe  woman  with  helmet  coiffure  and  nose  reins. 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  205 

learned,  however,  in  Bienemayong  that  this  road  was 
out  of  the  question,  as  the  bridges  had  in  several  places 
been  destroyed  by  the  deep  and  raging  rivers. 

When  I  left  Bienemayong  on  the  9th  of  July,  I  caught 
sight  of  a  portion  of  the  picturesque  mountains  in 
which  during  the  past  few  days  my  whole  interest 
had  been  centred.  Their  massive  and  fantastic  shapes 
presented  an  imposing  appearance,  and  I  judged  them 
to  be  from  1000  to  1200  feet  above  the  surrounding 
country,  though  at  the  same  time  I  understood  how 
easily  their  height  might  be  over-estimated. 

As  I  approached  these  splendid  mountains,  the 
monotonous  plantations  gradually  disappeared,  and 
were  replaced  by  the  characteristic  vegetation  of  the 
jungle,  with  its  long,  tapering  roots  (Ulus.  193),  and 
cauliflowers.  (Illus.  195.)  Raging  mountain  torrents 
raced  down  to  the  valley,  and  the  thunder  of  one  of  the 
N'tem  waterfalls  was  clearly  audible.  Before  long 
my  caravan  reached  the  foot  of  the  picturesque  rocky 
mountains,  some  of  which  we  had  already  seen  in  the 
distance  early  that  morning. 

We  halted  in  the  M'wei  village  of  Owong,  at  the  foot 
of  the  N'kol-Owong,  which,  with  its  precipitous  rocks 
and  silvery  streams  rushing  down  the  dark  tree-clad 
slopes,  formed  a  beautiful  background  to  this  peaceful 
village. 

I  proposed  to  spend  some  time  in  Owong,  and  to 
make  it  my  headquarters  whilst  exploring  the  neigh- 
bouring mountains.  I  felt  sure  that  their  steep  slopes 
and  forest-clad  peaks  would  present  serious  obstacles 
to  the  climber,  and  that  I  must  take  advantage  of 
every  possible  means  of  assistance.  Fortunately  the 
weather  seemed  more  promising.  I  noticed  a  strange 
meteorological  phenomenon  on  the  evening  of  my  arrival 


206       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

in  Owong.  Soon  after  sunset  a  thick  cloud  suddenly 
enveloped  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  the  rest  of 
the  sky  being  quite  clear.  After  nightfall  the  cloud 
dispersed,  and  the  clear  moonHght  illumined  a  perfectly 
cloudless  sky. 

As  I  had  anticipated,  the  bright  moonHght  soon 
brought  all  the  villagers  into  the  street,  and  dancing 
was  presently  in  progress  such  as  I  had  never  before 
seen  among  the  Pangwes.  A  circle  of  singers,  men, 
women,  and  children,  surrounded  a  single  dancing 
woman  who  displayed  marvellous  agility,  and  whose 
every  muscle  seemed  to  take  part  in  her  frenzied 
movements.  (lUus.  183.)  The  artistic  effect  of  the 
dancing  was  enhanced  by  her  surroundings ;  the 
fantastic  head-dresses  of  the  women  gHttered  in  the 
moonlight,  and  the  melodious  singing  of  the  onlookers 
harmonised  with  the  supple  and  graceful  movements 
of  the  performer.  I  noticed  that  the  musical  ear  of 
the  Pangwes  was  more  highly  developed  than  that  of 
the  Rules  and  Yaundes,  though  I  had  often  Hstened 
with  pleasure  to  the  songs  of  the  latter.  There  were 
real  melodies  among  the  songs  that  I  heard  on  this 
occasion,  one  of  which  bore  a  striking  resemblance  to 
the  temple  chorus  in  Verdi's  "  Aida,"  in  which  the 
composer  has  consciously  or  unconsciously  reproduced 
a  truly  African  melody. 

Early  the  following  morning  Undene  set  out  with 
some  of  the  bearers  in  order  to  find  the  way  up  one 
of  the  neighbouring  mountains,  and,  if  necessary,  to 
cut  down  some  of  the  trees  at  the  summit,  so  that  I 
might  enjoy  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  I  followed  a  little  later,  accompanied  by 
Kukuma,  the  chieftain  of  Owong,  who  related  to  me 
many  interesting  hunting  stories.    This  topic  of  con- 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  207 

versation  was  suggested  by  the  numerous  tracks  of 
leopards  and  elephants  crossing  the  path  beside  the 
N'tem  in  every  direction,  and  by  the  skilfully  made 
pits  that  bordered  the  road,  in  the  digging  of  which 
all  the  hunting  tribes  are  experts. 

I  was  not  a  Uttle  surprised  to  hear  once  more  of  the 
existence  of  the  great  beast  of  prey  which  had  been 
described  to  me  many  weeks  ago  at  the  Djah  station, 
and  which  Undene  had  stated  to  be  a  lion.  Here, 
too,  the  animal  was  known  by  the  name  of  "  Bung- 
Bung,"  and  it  was  most  graphically  described  to  me 
by  the  chief.  Five  months  ago,  according  to  his 
account,  this  animal  had  nightly  awakened  the  echoes 
of  the  N'kol-Owong  Mountain  with  its  mighty  roar. 

My  attention  was  immediately  rivetted  by  the 
name  "  Bung-Bung,"  otherwise  I  might  not  have  paid 
much  attention  to  my  companion's  description,  or 
at  any  rate  have  referred  it  to  some  other  animal. 
The  chief's  account  was,  however,  in  spite  of  a  few 
exaggerations  and  inaccuracies,  unmistakably  applicable 
to  a  lion  and  he  specially  mentioned  its  relationship — 
he  used  the  word  "  brother  " — to  the  leopard.  From 
the  latter  he  distinguished  it  by  its  long,  black  "  beard- 
beard."  the  brush  of  its  tail,  and  the  absence  of  spots 
("  but  he  no  get  marks  ").  My  companion,  moreover, 
gave  such  an  excellent  imitation  of  the  lion's  roar 
that  no  possible  doubt  remained  as  to  the  identity 
of  the  animal.  He  added  that  no  native  would  dare 
to  attack  the  animal  in  its  lair  among  the  rocks. 

I  was  particularly  surprised  at  the  chief's  description 
of  a  thick  mane,  since  in  the  Soudanese  Hon  this  distinc- 
tive mark  is  poorly  developed.  If,  however,  one  is 
inclined  to  beUeve  in  the  truth  of  the  tale,  why  not  go 
a  step  further  and  assume  the  existence  of  a  species 


208      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

of  lion  peculiar  to  the  jungle  ?  This  would  not  be 
the  first  instance  of  an  animal  supposed  to  belong 
exclusively  to  the  plains  being  found  also  in  the  jungle. 
My  entomological  collections  showed  that  the  insects 
of  the  jungle  so  much  resemble  those  of  the  South 
African  plains  that  I  often  felt  tempted  to  believe 
that  in  a  former  age  the  jungle  must  have  been  replaced 
by  dry  steppes. 

The  interesting  information  for  which  I  am  indebted 
to  the  chieftain  of  Owong,  although  I  have  no  means 
of  verifying  it,  was  by  far  the  most  noteworthy  item 
obtained  during  my  excursion  to  the  N'tem. 

The  following  day  I  expressed  a  wish  to  cross  the 
N'tem,  but  the  chief  insisted  that  this  was  impossible 
even  for  himself,  since  the  Esamegundes  would  immedi- 
ately kill  anyone  who  attempted  to  cross  the  river. 
I  had  neither  the  time  nor  the  inclination  to  test  the 
truth  of  this  statement,  since  I  had  more  important 
work  to  do  in  connection  with  the  mountains  surrounding 
Owong.  Two  European  merchants,  however,  who 
came  from  Campo,  and  were  travelling  eastwards, 
visited  my  camp  the  same  afternoon,  and  confirmed 
the  chief's  statements. 

It  was  late  in  the  evening  when  Undene  and  the 
bearers  returned  to  camp.  They  had  been  led  astray 
by  the  guides  supplied  by  the  chief,  and  after  missing 
the  road  to  the  mountain  that  I  had  indicated,  they 
had  chmbed  another,  the  N'kolumwini,  the  ascent 
of  which  had  ocupied  four  hours.  Undene  stated 
that  there  was  an  extensive  view  from  the  summit, 
although  in  the  afternoon  it  was  obscured  by  clouds. 
I  accordingly  decided  to  make  the  ascent  myself  the 
following  morning. 

I  set  off  at  seven  o'clock,  and  did  not  return  to  camp 


^41 

-\'\ 

1^ 

Ej»"       jr"*^  * 

1 

b^- 

:S^ 

<4S 

^^^® 

1C^ 

^^Bi^  Ad 

5 

V 

^^^^B^.'^ 

^  ^Ak 

1       '  "-'1 

191.    Mountain  landscape  near  Endendem. 


>/J|*>.^|'V■|•\^?*^2r^^^^^■  'f  '^^i^^^'-^:/^-  W  ^i':^^^ 

^:::lfi#l4|v^^^^^ 

192.    Undergrowth  with  dwarf  palms.    (Podococcus  Darteri.) 
My  boy  Elume. 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA     209 

until  it  was  almost  dark.  It  was  a  very  fatiguing 
expedition,  and  in  some  places  I  had  to  proceed  on 
all  fours ;  many  of  the  slopes  that  we  negotiated  were 
at  an  angle  of  forty  degrees,  and  were  smooth  and 
slippery.  The  boiling-point  apparatus  gave  a  lesser 
altitude  than  I  had  expected,  the  mountain  being  only 
3000  feet  high.  I  saw  another  peak  towards  the  north- 
west, which  was  330  feet  higher,  but  none  attained 
the  stated  altitude  of  5000  feet. 

Among  the  jungle  flora  covering  the  summit  of  the 
N'kolumwini,  not  only  were  mountain  plants  con- 
spicuous by  their  absence,  but  there  was  also  a  dearth 
of  tree-ferns  ;  on  the  other  hand,  I  observed  a  peculiar 
kind  of  rotang  which  gave  off  a  number  of  tendrils 
from  a  single  root-stock,  and  was  characterised  by 
almost  entire  leaves.  On  the  whole  the  vegetation 
resembled  that  of  the  tropical  forests  of  the  plains. 

There  was  little  to  be  seen  in  the  way  of  mountain 
fauna.  I  saw  some  long  tunnelled  dwellings  near 
the  summit,  which  the  natives  attributed  to  armadilloes. 
In  the  swamps  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  the 
ground  was  trampled  by  elephants,  and  among 
the  twenty-five  feet  high  aframomum  thicket  which 
replaced  former  plantations,  Undene  drew  my  attention 
to  the  tracks  of  a  gorilla.  In  one  place  long  aframomum 
branches  had  been  broken  off  and  bent  into  a  kind 
of  bed,  on  which  were  scattered  other  branches. 
(lUus.  194.)  Undene  had  come  across  these  resting 
places  before,  and  he  asserted  that  the  gorilla  lay  on 
his  "  sofa  "  in  the  recumbent  position.  The  huge  ape 
was  undoubtedly  in  the  neighbourhood,  for  the  following 
night  I  was  awaktned  by  a  frightful  roaring  which 
echoed  and  re-echoed  in  the  abysses  of  the  mountains. 

On  the  whole  I  was  but  ill- satisfied  with  the  results 


210      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

of  my  very  fatiguing  mountain  ascent,  and  when  I 
set  out  with  my  caravan  the  next  morning  in  a  westerly 
direction,  I  had  no  notion  how  to  set  about  solving 
the  problem  elsewhere. 

I  met  a  soldier  from  the  station  of  Campo,  who 
was  on  his  way  to  arrest  the  chieftain  of  Ekob  on  a 
charge  of  theft,  and  who  gave  me  some  valuable  infor- 
mation. He  was  a  Pangwe,  and  was  familiar  with  the 
whole  district  owing  to  his  having  patrolled  it.  He 
assured  me  that  the  high  mountains  of  which  I  was 
in  search  certainly  existed,  and  that  they  were  near 
the  old  Pfanemakok  road ;  he  added  that  the  Owong 
men  had  probably  purposely  led  me  astray  for  some 
unknown  reason,  and  that  from  this  village  I  could 
easily  have  reached  the  highest  peak  of  the  district. 
Although  this  information  was  in  some  respects  most 
annoying,  I  had  at  all  events  learnt  that  the  old  main 
road  traversed  that  part  of  the  country  in  which 
was  to  be  found  the  solution  of  the  problem  I  was  so 
anxious  to  solve. 

I  determined,  therefore,  to  try  my  luck  along  the 
old  road,  starting  from  its  westerly  extremity.  I 
passed  through  the  beautiful  jungle,  with  its  rushing 
streams  and  thundering  waterfalls,  and  almost  imper- 
ceptibly reached  a  low-lying  region,  which  I  estimated 
to  be  but  300  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The  slope 
from  the  mountainous  country  to  the  coast  is  so  gradual 
that  it  might  easily  pass  unnoticed,  for  every  stream 
running  parallel  with  the  coast -line  forms  a  kind  of 
step,  and  the  traveller  must  climb  down  on  the  inner 
bank  further  than  he  climbs  up  on  the  outer  bank. 
It  was  surprising  to  see  how  promptly  my  barometer 
responded  to  this  difference  of  level. 

From  the  village  of  Afang  I  sent  my  "  boy  "  Stepke 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  211 

with  a  few  bearers  to  fetch  rice  from  Campo.  I  gave 
him  a  letter  for  the  comjnandant,  in  which  I  described 
the  difficulties  that  I  had  encountered  in  trying  to 
discover  the  mysterious  "  high  mountain,"  and  begged 
for  a  guide  who  was  acquainted  with  the  locality. 

The  rain  having  kept  off  for  five  whole  days,  I  began 
to  hope  that  the  dry  season  had  at  length  set  in.  But 
when  I  left  Afang  early  in  the  morning  of  the  14th  of 
July,  the  ground  was  once  more  wet  from  the  rain  of 
the  previous  night,  and  a  violent  downpour  overtook 
us  during  the  last  stage  of  a  very  exhausting  day's 
march,  just  before  the  crossing  of  the  M'wini  River. 

Judging  from  the  innumerable  tracks  of  wild  beasts, 
this  district,  in  which  swamps  and  jungle  alternate  with 
mountains  and  abandoned  plantations,  must  contain 
more  animals  than  any  other  part  of  the  Cameroons. 
Here  and  there  we  saw  watch-huts  for  the  natives 
whose  duty  it  is  to  keep  the  elephants  and  buffaloes 
from  devastating  the  plantations.  The  elephants  in 
most  cases  seemed  to  prefer  the  smooth  beaten  track, 
and  they  were  careful  not  to  omit  any  of  the  bridges, 
all  of  which  bore  deeply  impressed  in  their  soft  logs 
the  marks  of  giant  feet. 

I  encamped  close  to  the  village  of  Sogebafam,  in 
order  to  await  the  return  of  the  men  whom  I  had 
despatched  to  Campo.  Here  I  met  a  trader  named 
Kirchner  who  was  marching  from  Campo  to  the  in- 
terior, and  who  had  halted  for  the  night  in  this  village. 
He  invited  me  to  dine  with  him,  and  tliis  was,  so  to 
speak,  my  first  glimpse  of  the  coast  which  I  so  longed 
to  reach,  but  from  which  I  was  detained  in  order  to 
solve  important  problems. 

On  the  16th  of  July  Stepke  returned,  bringing  with 
him  the  necessary  provisions  for  my  new  undertak- 


212      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

ing,  and  two  soldiers  from  Campo  as  guides  in  the 
mountains.  A  letter  from  Herr  Freund,  who  was  in 
command  at  Campo,  contained  some  valuable  infor- 
mation as  well  as  an  interesting  statement  which  to 
a  certain  extent  corroborated  the  rumours  I  had  heard 
concerning  the  existence  of  lions  in  the  mountains 
surrounding  Owong.  My  correspondent  expressed 
the  beHef  that  the  natives  of  Owong  had  intentionally 
misdirected  me  owing  to  their  dread  of  the  evil  spirits 
which  were  supposed  to  haunt  the  mountains.  I 
gathered  further  that,  in  the  opinion  of  the  writer, 
these  "  evil  spirits  "  were  probably  identical  with  the 
lions  that  were  rumoured  to  inhabit  the  Campo 
Mountains.  A  more  startling  confirmation  of  the 
almost  incredible  assertions  of  the  natives  regarding 
the  existence  of  lions  can  scarcely  be  conceived.  Thus 
vanished  my  last  doubt,  not  indeed  with  respect  to 
the  presence  of  lions  in  these  parts,  but  as  to  the 
existence  of  another  highly  interesting  problem ;  I 
regretted  nothing  so  much  as  the  lack  of  time  which 
prevented  me  from  endeavouring  to  solve  it.  From  my 
experience  of  these  mountains  I  was  well  aware  that 
many  weeks,  if  not  months,  would  be  necessary  in  order 
to  bring  irrefragable  evidence  to  bear  on  this  question. 
This  fearsome  and  inaccessible  mountain  appeared  to 
me  like  some  savage  beast  of  prey  brooding  in  his  lair, 
whose  means  of  defence  against  prying  eyes  were  many 
times  more  effective  than  those  possessed  by  the  belts 
of  jungle  bordering  the  rivers  in  the  plains. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  July  I  set  off  eastwards 
at  the  head  of  my  caravan.  The  road  proved  better 
than  I  had  been  led  to  expect,  especially  through  the 
jungle,  which  we  traversed  at  a  rapid  pace.  Further 
on,    through  abandoned  villages   and  plantations,   it 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  213 

became  much  worse,  and  our  progress  was  barred 
by  a  formidable  thicket  of  twenty  foot  aframomum 
and  other  ginger-like  plants.  The  aframomum,  a 
"  weed "  inseparable  from  abandoned  habitations, 
seemed  to  have  exercised  its  customary  power  of 
attracting  wild  beasts  ;  the  paths  were  trampled  by 
elephants,  and  every  ten  or  twenty  steps  we  came  upon 
the  fresh  spoors  of  buffaloes.  Glossince  were  present 
in  large  numbers ;  they  displayed  unwonted  per- 
sistence, velocity,  and  cunning,  relentlessly  attacking 
the  unsuspecting  traveller. 

From  the  statements  of  my  guides  I  concluded  that 
I  was  now  on  the  point  of  solving  the  mystery  of  the 
"  N'kolumbinde."  In  answer  to  my  oft  repeated 
and  impatient  questions,  I  was  told  that  I  should 
soon  catch  sight  of  a  mountain  which  was  evidently 
identical  with  the  one  of  which  I  was  in  search.  Its 
real  name  was  N'kolumbembe,  so  that  the  name  given 
on  the  map  must  be  a  misprint. 

Soon  after  crossing  the  River  Bembe  or  Bimbe  I 
saw  at  last  between  the  trees  a  rocky  peak  with  menac- 
ing and  precipitous  sides  :  my  long  sought  mountain  ! 
I  endeavoured  to  make  a  rough  estimate  of  its  height, 
and  Undene  agreed  with  me  in  concluding  that  it  was 
lower  even  than  the  N'kolumwini  near  Owong. 

The  mountain  soon  disappeared  from  view  behind 
the  trees.  When  at  last  we  reached  its  foot,  Undene, 
whose  eagerness  equalled  my  own,  insisted  on  setting 
off  at  once  to  reconnoitre,  accompanied  by  a  few 
bearers. 

The  following  morning  at  daybreak  my  indefatig- 
able assistant  set  to  work  on  the  mountain  slopes,  and 
I  could  hear  the  huge  trees  crashing  under  the  axes 
of  the  natives.    I  had  told  him  to  find  a  way  of  ascent, 


214      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

and,  if  possible,  to  erect  a  scaffolding  on  the  summit, 
whence  I  could  command  a  view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  A  few  hours  later  I  followed  Undene,  who, 
however,  sent  me  word  that  he  had  not  nearly  finished 
cutting  the  path. 

After  climbing  a  very  little  way  I  gained  a  rough 
idea  of  the  dimensions  of  this  rocky  peak.  At  first 
the  path  followed  the  stony  bed  of  the  N'gata  stream, 
then  it  led  over  an  immense  rubbish  heap  strewn  with 
huge  boulders,  some  of  them  sixty  feet  in  diameter, 
between  which  the  path  wound  at  times  as  if  through 
a  tunnel.  It  was  an  escalade  requiring  infinite  caution, 
for  the  ground  was  in  places  most  treacherous,  and 
consisted  of  decaying  leaves  filling  up  deep  clefts. 
Here  and  there  the  road  was  blocked  by  precipitous 
rocks,  up  which  I  scrambled  with  the  help  of  lianas 
and  the  roots  of  trees.  Huge  trees  found  foot-hold 
amongst  the  boulders,  grasping  the  rocks  with  their 
roots  as  though  in  the  grip  of  a  giant's  fist ;  stout 
liana  ropes  hung  down  the  steep  slopes,  affording  an 
insecure  hi.  'ustrade  for  the  climber,  who  was  obliged 
to  test  each  apparent  support  before  entrusting  his 
weight  to  it.  There  was  on  all  sides  a  wealth  of  epi- 
phjiiic  plants,  and  the  rocks  were  carpeted  with 
balsamines  and  beautiful  begonias. 

It  was  late  in  the  evening  when  Undene  returned 
with  the  bearers ;  he  related  to  me  that  he  had  climbed 
an  immense  tree  by  means  of  a  Hana  ladder,  and  had 
obtained  a  magnificent  view  enabling  him  to  follow 
the  coast  line  with  his  eye  for  a  considerable  distance. 

Like  all  the  high  mountains  in  this  neighbourhood, 
the  N'kolumbembe  seemed  to  be  a  veritable  storm 
centre.  On  the  afternoon  of  our  first  ascent  the  peak 
assumed  its  cloud  cap,  and  in  spite  of  our  being  in  the 


193.    Gigantic  root  scaffold  of  a  strangling  fig  in  the  forest. 


194.   Gorilla  lair.     In  the  background  Stepke  and  Undene. 


195.  Cola  chlamydantha. 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA     215 

dry  season,  sprinkled  us  towards  evening  with  a  little 
rain.  Every  now  and  then  the  tree-tops  rustled, 
and  a  gust  of  wind  drove  a  cloud  down  into  the  valley, 
wrapping  us  in  a  driving  mist. 

It  took  me  the  whole  morning  to  reach  the  summit, 
and,  as  the  reward  of  my  labours,  the  boiling  point 
apparatus  indicated  an  altitude  of  but  2500  feet.  I 
reached  the  summit  about  noon,  after  an  exhausting 
and  dangerous  climb,  or  rather  scramble,  and  was 
immediately  enveloped  in  a  cloud  cap  as  thick  as  a 
London  fog,  which  presently  turned  to  rain.  My 
hopes  of  a  view  were,  of  course,  doomed  to  disappoint- 
ment. But  even  if  the  weather  had  been  favourable, 
I  should  not  have  seen  very  much,  for  Undene  had  cut 
down  the  trees  towards  the  north  and  west,  and  in 
this  direction  there  was  but  Httle  to  be  seen.  I  realised, 
however,  that  it  would  take  days  of  tree-feUing  to  enable 
me  to  obtain  a  comprehensive  view,  so  I  was  content 
with  what  I  saw  from  the  top  of  the  big  tree  during 
the  few  available  seconds  of  clear  weather.  When 
I  got  back  to  camp  I  felt  as  if  I  had  been  on  a  moun- 
taineering expedition,  in  which  Hanas  and  roots  took 
the  place  of  alpenstocks  and  ropes. 

It  was  most  unfortunate  that  our  provisions  were 
coming  to  an  end,  for  Musa,  who  for  the  last  few  days 
had  been  out  hunting  without  success,  came  across  a 
high  mountain  on  the  Pfanemakok  road,  which  I  felt 
I  must  at  all  hazards  investigate.  Fortune,  however, 
favoured  us,  for  early  on  the  21st  of  July,  as  I  was 
breaking  camp,  Musa  brought  me  the  good  news  that 
he  had  shot  a  young  buffalo,  and  thus  our  difficulties 
were  at  an  end  as  regards  provisions. 

I  had  already  made  up  my  mind  that  if  the 
results  of  climbing  the  N'kolmnbembe  were  not  wholly 


216   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

satisfactory,  I  would  push  forward  along  the  Pfane- 
makok  road  until  I  reached  the  Kom  river  at  a  point 
where,  according  to  the  map,  there  was  a  great  water- 
fall. The  road  led  alternately  through  abandoned 
village  sites  and  luxuriant  belts  of  jungle,  where  an 
incredible  number  of  elephant  tracks  were  visible. 
Presently  the  thunder  of  the  waterfall  became  audible, 
and  I  sent  Undene  on  ahead  to  find  a  suitable  camp- 
ing ground.  Fortunately  the  Kom  was  now  at  a  low 
level,  otherwise  all  my  plans  would  have  been  frus- 
trated. 

As  soon  as  my  tent  was  pitched  I  set  off  to  investi- 
gate the  waterfall,  and  soon  reached  the  spot  where 
the  river  rushed  in  foaming  cascades  over  the  edge  of 
the  poUshed  granite  rocks,  covering  the  surrounding 
trees  with  clouds  of  spray.  (lUus.  197.)  There  were 
now  three  separate  falls,  but  probably  in  the  rainy 
season  they  combine  to  form  one  mighty,  boiling  rush 
of  water. 

Suddenly  I  caught  sight  of  a  huge  cone  shaped  like 
a  sugar  loaf,  towering  over  the  tree  tops,  and  appar- 
ently close  at  hand.  It  was  thickly  covered  with  trees, 
and  the  summit  seemed  to  be  about  sixteen  hundred 
feet  above  my  present  standpoint.  I  realised  later 
on  that  this  was  the  extremity  of  the  ridge  that  Musa 
had  observed  the  previous  day,  and  which  I,  too,  had 
caught  sight  of  for  a  moment  until  it  was  once  more 
hidden  by  the  trees. 

The  next  day  Undene  set  off  at  daybreak  with  some 
of  the  bearers  to  discover  the  best  means  of  negotia- 
ing  this  steep  and  rugged  rock.  Meanwhile  I  busied 
myself  in  studying  the  topography  of  the  country. 

I  was  deeply  absorbed  in  my  work  with  compass, 
road  book,  and  watch,  when  my  attention  was  suddenly 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  217 

aroused  by  a  startling  apparition.  Musa  was  walking 
a  few  steps  behind  me  when  all  of  a  sudden  he  rushed 
up  to  me  in  great  excitement,  and  pointing  to  a  gap 
in  the  balsaraine  thicket  beside  me,  shouted  :  "  Massa, 
tiger !  "  I  had  entirely  overlooked  a  leopard  which 
was  crouching  on  a  fallen  tree  barely  five  paces  from 
the  road.  Elumu,  too,  who  was  close  behind  me,  failed 
to  notice  the  animal,  but  Musa,  about  ten  paces  in  the 
rear,  saw  it  take  to  flight,  followed  by  its  mate.  Having 
only  a  shot  gun,  he  was  afraid  to  fire  for  fear  of  injuring 
me. 

The  same  day  I  received  a  telegram  from  the  Duke, 
who  was  at  Lokoja,  expressing  the  hope  that  Mildbraed 
and  I  would  accompany  him  home  in  the  first  August 
steamer.  Even  if  I  had  at  once  interrupted  my  work 
and  hurried  to  the  coast,  giving  up  our  projected 
island  tour,  I  could  not  possibly  have  caught  the 
steamer,  and  I  sent  a  reply  from  Campo  to  this  effect. 

Undene  reached  camp  at  dusk,  and  described  to  me 
the  difficulties  which  he  had  encountered  in  making 
the  ascent  of  the  highest  part  of  the  ridge,  adding 
that  he  had  not  yet  finished  his  tree-felling.  From 
his  account  I  gathered  that  I  must  be  prepared  for 
another  day  of  arduous  mountaineering.  Fortunately 
there  was  nothing  to  hinder  me  from  spending  another 
day  or  two  encamped  beside  the  Kom  Falls,  since  my 
men  were  now  well  provided  with  food,  brought  in  by 
the  chieftain  of  Sogebafam  and  his  wives. 

I  started  at  an  early  hour  the  following  morning, 
fully  equipped  for  spending  the  night  on  the  mountain 
if  necessary  :  I  took  a  supply  of  food  and  some  blankets 
for  the  men,  and  for  my  own  use  one  of  the  outer 
coverings  of  ray  tent,  which  could  easily  be  converted 
into  a  sleeping-sack. 


218   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

Undene  had  selected  the  steepest  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, but  I  was  now  somewhat  inured  to  climbing, 
and  within  two  hours  and  a  half  had  reached  the 
summit.  The  altitude  proved  to  be  under  2300  feet, 
but  the  view  was  more  extensive  than  any  I  had 
hitherto  enjoyed.  In  order  that  it  might  include 
the  mountain  ranges  toward  the  south-west  and 
north-east,  I  had  to  make  up  my  mind  to  scramble 
up  a  tall  tree  by  means  of  a  liana  ladder  erected  by 
my  bearers.  This  would  have  been  a  hard  task  for 
anyone  inclined  to  giddiness,  for  the  tree  swayed  in 
the  most  unpleasant  manner,  especially  when  the  top 
was  shaken  by  a  gust  of  wind.  My  field  of  vision  now 
included  all  the  surrounding  hills  of  any  importance, 
so  that  I  had  at  length  solved  the  problem  regarding 
the  mountains  of  this  intricate  neighbourhood.  One 
thing  was  certain  :  not  one  of  the  peaks  came  any- 
where near  being  6000  feet  in  height,  and  I  could  not 
even  see  one  that  approached  5000  feet.  The  highest 
mountain  lay  in  a  north-easterly  direction,  and  its 
altitude  was  not  above  4000  feet. 

By  three  o'clock  I  was  back  in  camp,  well  satisfied 
with  the  results  of  my  investigations.  I  set  off  the 
following  morning  in  high  spirits  on  the  return  march 
to  Sogebafam ;  my  men,  too,  were  delighted  to  think 
that  their  hardships  were  at  an  end,  for,  like  myself, 
many  of  them  were  reduced  to  mere  skin  and  bones. 

From  Sogebafam  we  were  to  proceed  as  far  as  Afan 
in  the  direction  of  the  coast,  and  at  this  point  I  should 
have  to  make  up  my  mind  whether  to  take  the  road 
to  Campo  and  thence  along  the  coast  to  Kribi,  or  to 
travel  across  country  via  N'goen  on  the  Lobe  River. 
The  former  route  was  for  obvious  reasons  the  more 
attractive,  but  the  latter  was  more  promising  from 


3 
O 

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O 


o 

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JS 


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O 


197.    Kom  falls. 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  219 

a  scientific  point  of  view,  this  part  of  the  country 
being  but  Httle  known. 

Excepting  for  a  few  occasional  showers,  the  weather 
was  now  favourable,  and  this  helped  to  restore  my 
exhausted  bearers  to  health.  By  the  time  we  reached 
Afan,  they  had  so  far  recovered  that  they  were  quite 
fit  for  the  final  stage  of  the  joiu'ney. 

We  were  marching  through  a  slightly  undulating 
plain,  from  120  to  320  feet  above  the  sea.  Every 
now  and  then  we  passed  an  isolated  hill,  one  of  the 
last  out-posts  of  the  mountain  range.  We  travelled 
almost  continuously  in  the  shade  of  the  forest,  but 
owing  to  the  time  of  year  the  trees  were  imfortunately 
barren  and  shrivelled.  But  although  the  season  was 
unfavourable  from  the  collector's  point  of  view,  it 
was  not  without  its  advantages,  since  in  the  wet 
season  the  large  tracts  of  swamp-land  that  lay  in  our 
path  would  have  been  quite  impassable. 

Before  we  reached  the  large  village  of  Angali,  we 
could  hear  the  rushing  waters  of  the  Lobe,  which, 
according  to  some  of  my  men,  was  part  of  the  Kom 
River.  The  road  showed  many  windings,  and  de- 
viated towards  the  East,  away  from  the  coast.  On 
the  28th  of  July,  at  the  little  village  of  Akom,  my  Bule 
caravan  crossed  the  Lobe  in  two  canoes,  and  we  were 
now  much  further  from  the  coast  than  at  Afan,  which 
lay  two  days'  march  in  our  rear. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Lobe  is  a  vast  plain,  which 
during  the  wet  season  is  said  to  Ue  six  feet  under  water. 
At  present  the  road  was  easy,  although  we  were  tor- 
mented by  a  great  number  of  mosquitoes.  The  road 
still  led  in  an  easterly  direction,  and  it  was  not  until 
we  had  crossed  the  Niete  that  it  turned  once  more 
towards  the  coast. 


220   FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

Perhaps  this  slight  detour  is  due  to  the  difficult 
passage  of  the  Niete,  which,  even  in  the  dry  season, 
affords  a  dangerous  crossing  infested  with  crocodiles. 

I  had  some  very  anxious  moments  during  the  cross- 
ing of  this  river  at  its  narrowest  point.  It  was  here 
constricted  by  rocks  to  about  thirty  feet,  and  the 
bridge  consisted  of  a  tree-trunk,  with  an  awkward 
bend  in  the  middle.  Steps  had  been  cut  in  the  sHppery 
surface  of  the  wood,  but  just  as  I  reached  the  middle 
I  found  that  toy  boots  were  not  gripping  properiy, 
and  at  this  critical  point  I  was  obUged  to  assume  a 
sitting  posture  and  sHde  along  the  remainder  of  the 
bridge,  with  the  foaming  torrent  boiling  beneath  me. 
With  an  effort  of  will  I  conquered  the  momentary 
giddiness  that  assailed  me,  and  scrambled  across. 

Having  crossed  in  safety  myself,  I  felt  some  anxiety 
for  my  baggage,  for  in  spite  of  their  monkey-like 
agility,  some  of  the  men  faltered  at  the  prospect  of 
this  dizzy  crossing,  knowing  that  everything  that 
fell  into  this  abyss  would  be  irretrievably  lost.  A 
few  of  them,  however,  walked  over  the  sUppery  bridge 
with  the  utmost  unconcern. 

After  crossing  the  Niete,  we  were  once  more  in  a 
region  which  had  once  been  cultivated,  as  evidenced 
by  the  presence  of  a  formidable  aframomum  thicket. 
The  largest  forest  regions  now  lay  behind  us.  In 
one  respect  this  was  unfortunate,  for  one  of  my 
principal  reasons  in  selecting  this  route  to  the  coast 
was  in  order  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  the  Bagielli 
dwarfs,  whose  language  I  was  anxious  to  compare 
with  that  of  the  other  dwarfs  that  I  had  met. 

I  had  made  numerous  inquiries,  and  Kukuma  of 
Angali  had  assured  me  that  there  were  no  BagieUis 
left  in  his  district,  as  they  had  all  migrated  nearer 


I  'I ' 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  221 

the  coast.  Later  on  I  learned  accidentally  that  the 
Angali  chieftain  was  the  only  man  who  could  have 
met  my  wishes  in  the  matter  of  the  dwarfs,  as  hordes 
of  Pygmies  were  at  that  very  time  hunting  elephants 
for  him  in  the  neighbourhood  of  his  village. 

I  happened  to  meet  another  chief  on  the  road  to 
Kribi,  who  informed  me  that  a  friend  of  his,  living 
in  the  next  large  Bule  village,  had  just  bought  a 
Bagielli  wife,  these  women  being  much  sought  after 
as  wives,  as  their  children  are  very  strong  and  healthy. 

After  making  many  inquiries  I  succeeded  in  find- 
ing this  woman  in  the  village  of  Anjok,  and  induced 
her  to  pay  me  a  visit  in  my  tent.  She  certainly  dis- 
played none  of  the  shyness  of  her  race.  A  few 
questions  satisfied  me  that  she  knew  not  a  word  of 
the  pygmy  language,  and  the  same  thing  applied  to 
other  representatives  of  this  tribe  whom  I  met  a  few 
days  later  in  Kribi.  The  villagers,  too,  assured  me 
that  the  BagielKs  of  the  coast  spoke  only  the  language 
of  the  surrounding  Bantu  tribes. 

From  now  onwards  we  proceeded  rapidly  to  the 
coast.  On  the  30th  of  July  we  encamped  in  N'kolum- 
bunde,  at  the  foot  of  the  forest-clad  Nanga,  the  famous 
"  Elephant  Mountain  "  well  known  to  all  ships'  captains. 
It  did  not,  however,  welcome  us  in  a  friendly  manner, 
for  on  our  arrival  it  was  wrapped  in  clouds  which 
poured  down  torrents  of  rain. 

I  was  anxious  to  make  the  ascent  of  the  Nanga, 
in  order  to  obtain  a  final  view  of  the  mountainous 
region  in  the  rear.  I  had  little  time  to  spare,  so  on 
the  afternoon  of  my  arrival  I  made  inquiries  as  to 
the  possibiHty  of  the  ascent.  It  has  several  times 
been  cUmbed  by  Europeans,  so  that  the  chief  of  the 
village    readily    suppUed    the    necessary    information, 


222      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

and  for  the    sum  of    two   marks    agreed  to  be   my 
guide. 

I  set  off  early  the  following  morning,  and  as  I  began 
to  climb  I  heard  the  hoot  of  a  steamer,  which  sounded 
as  clearly  through  the  fog  as  if  I  had  been  close  to 
the  sea.  My  Togo  "  boys  "  who  had  grown  up  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  sea,  were  greatly  excited,  and  in  my 
heart,  too,  it  awakened  memories  of  the  coast  that 
lay  a  whole  year  behind  me. 

Owing  to  the  previous  heavy  rain,  the  ascent  through 
the  wet  underwood  and  up  the  steep  micaceous  slopes 
was  most  unpleasant,  and  yet  it  was  mere  child's  play 
to  my  previous  mountaineering  expeditions. 

The  same  day  we  set  off  again,  and  after  crossing 
the  Lobe  for  the  second  time,  found  ourselves  in  the 
monotonous  agricultural  district  belonging  to  the 
Mabeas,  a  tribe  that  has  migrated  from  the  East,  and 
whose  elongated  houses  show  their  connection  with 
the  Kunabembes  and  other  Congo  races. 

In  the  village  of  Sabane,  our  last  halting-place  before 
reaching  Kribi,  the  roar  of  the  sea  was  distinctly 
audible,  and  I  must  confess  that  I  slept  Uttle,  so  eagerly 
did  I  anticipate  the  events  of  the  following  day. 

When  at  length  we  stood  on  the  burning  shore  of 
the  Batanga  coast,  some  of  my  men  who  had  never 
seen  the  sea,  gazed  half  incredulously  at  the  vast 
expanse  of  water,  and  with  mingled  pleasure  and 
fear  let  the  waves  wash  over  their  bare  feet. 

At  the  church  of  the  CathoUc  mission  at  Great 
Batanga  I  came  to  the  end  of  my  work  on  the  con- 
tinent. After  greeting  Father  Schwab,  I  hastened 
after  my  men  along  the  sunny  road  leading  to  the 
shore  in  order  to  cross  the  bay  in  the  Uttle  Govern- 
ment boats.    At  the  extremity  of  the  bay  the  Lobe 


MARCHING  FROM  EBOLOWA  223 

rushes  over  the  rocks  straight  into  the  sea.  (Vide 
coloured  illus.) 

Within  an  hour  all  the  loads  had  been  landed  on 
the  fmiher  shore,  and  a  Httle  later  I  greeted  my 
colleague  in  the  hospitable  house  of  Dr  Schiirmann 
in  Kribi. 

Mildbraed  was  in  the  act  of  arranging  his  botanical 
trophies,  and  was  no  less  satisfied  than  I  with  the 
results  of  our  journey.  In  the  neighbourhood  of 
Fenda  he  had  found  a  particularly  favourable  botanis- 
ing  ground,  and  west  of  this  village  he  had  observed 
a  well  defined  floral  boundary. 

We  were  very  busy  for  several  days.  The  bearers 
had  to  be  paid  off  and  discharged,  our  collections 
packed,  and  all  the  cases  containing  the  treasures 
amassed  during  the  past  six  months  prepared  for 
transmission  to  Germany. 

The  weather  was  most  unfavourable,  and  the  rain 
poured  down  day  after  day  in  torrents.  But  our 
kind  host's  house  was  all  the  more  enjoyable,  and 
my  colleague  and  I  shall  always  retain  very  pleasant 
memories  of  the  happy  evenings  spent  on  his  wide 
verandah. 

Kribi  marked  the  close  of  our  labours  on  the  main- 
land of  Africa,  and  all  that  remained  of  our  task  was 
the  exploration  of  the  Spanish  Guinea  islands. 


CHAPTERS  XXV  and  XXVI 
FERNANDO  PO   AND   ANNOBON 


BY 


Dr   J.    MiLDBRAED 


CHAPTER  XXV 

FERNANDO   PO 

When  we  left  Hamburg,  a  visit  to  the  Guinea  Islands 
was  not  contemplated,  and  it  was  only  a  chance 
occurrence  that  determined  the  South  Cameroons 
party  to  explore  these  islands  at  the  close  of  their 
travels  on  the  mainland.  Herr  KjuII,  agent  for  the 
German  firm,  E.  H.  Moritz,  at  Fernando  Po,  happened 
to  be  travelling  with  us,  and  the  "  Eleonore  Woer- 
mann  "  touched  at  Santa  Isabella  in  order  that  he 
might  land.  During  our  short  stay  the  idea  that 
was  already  in  our  minds  took  root,  and  when  we 
put  in  at  St  Thomas  and  observed  its  magnificent 
vegetation,  we  made  up  our  minds  to  pay  a  longer 
visit  to  these  islands  if  we  could  by  any  possibility 
arrange  to  do  so.  We  never  regretted  this  decision, 
although  our  journey  was  delayed  by  unfavourable 
weather  and  bad  roads,  so  that  we  were  unable  to 
carry  out  the  whole  of  our  plan. 

After  our  prolonged  journeys  in  the  Cameroon 
jungle,  which  afforded  a  rich  harvest  to  the  scientist, 
but  at  the  same  time  presented  many  difficulties  to 
the  traveller,  we  were  so  favourably  impressed  by 
Fernando  Po  and  Annobon  that  all  our  hardships 
were  forgotten  and  these  islands  have  remained  in 
our  minds  a  glorious  memory  like  Lake  Kiwu  and 
the  volcanic  giants  that  we  saw  in  East  Africa  during 
our  first  expedition. 


228      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

Fernando  Po  bears  the  same  relation  to  the  Cameroons 
as  Zanzibar  to  German  East  Africa.  But  whereas 
Zanzibar  is  well-known  in  German  colonial  history, 
the  "  pearl  of  the  Gulf  of  Guinea  "  is  to  most  of  us 
little  more  than  a  name.  Even  to  the  Cameroonians 
it  has  remained  more  or  less  a  terra  incognita,  although 
Victoria  is  scarcely  thirty- six  miles  from  the  capital 
Santa  Isabella.  The  island  has  relapsed  into  obs- 
curity, for  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  when  it 
was  occupied  by  the  British,  it  was  well  known  as 
the  mainstay  and  centre  for  all  the  enterprises  against 
the  slave  trade,  as  well  as  for  the  Niger  expeditions. 

In  the  year  1472  (or  1471)  the  Portuguese  Captain 
Femao  do  Poo  discovered  in  the  Bight  of  Biafra  an 
island  which,  from  its  tropical  luxuriance  and  beauty, 
he  named  Formosa,  this  name  being  changed  later 
to  that  of  its  discoverer.  There  now  remains  no 
trace  of  Portuguese  rule ;  its  undertakings  mostly 
took  the  form  of  slave  hunts,  and  the  native  Bubis, 
to  whose  highly  moral  character  this  kind  of  traffic 
was  most  repulsive,  withdrew  themselves  into  the 
woods  and  mountains,  and  whenever  possible,  drove 
back  the  "  white  devils  "  who  landed  on  their  shores. 
It  is  not  improbable  that  the  Bubis'  present-day  fear 
of  Europeans  has  its  origin  in  the  dark  deeds  of  those 
ancient  times. 

In  the  year  1777  the  island  of  Fernando  Po  was 
bartered  to  Spain,  and  a  splendid  expedition  was  sent 
to  take  possession.  But  the  leader.  Count  Argelejos, 
died  soon  after  entering  upon  his  new  kingdom,  and 
the  settlers  were  so  decimated  by  fever  that  their 
discontent  finally  culminated  in  a  mutiny.  The 
ringleaders  imprisoned  Lieutenant  Primo  de  Rivera, 
and  abandoned  the  land  that   had  treated  them  so 


FERNANDO  PO  229 

inhospitably.  From  that  time  onwards  Spain  troubled 
herself  no  more  about  the  island.  But  British  sea 
captains  realised  the  value  of  its  position,  its  harbours, 
and  its  excellent  drinking  water,  and  in  1827  the 
British  Government  decided  to  make  Fernando  Po 
the  headquarters  of  the  expeditions  for  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  slave  trade.  Clarence  Town,  the  present 
Santa  Isabella,  was  founded,  and  the  negroes  taken 
from  the  captured  slavers  were  settled  there.  The 
Spaniards  apparently  protested  but  weakly ;  occas- 
sionally  the  EngUsh  vacated  the  island,  leaving  only 
a  consul,  and  in  1839  they  endeavoured  to  purchase 
it.  But  the  national  pride  of  the  Spanish  Cortes 
was  wounded  by  the  offer  of  no  more  than  £60,000 
sterling.  British  influence,  however,  rapidly  gained 
ground,  and  the  EngHsh  consul,  Beecroft,  was  at  the 
same  time  Spanish  Governor !  He  was  succeeded 
by  the  Dutchman  Lynslager.  The  expeditions  sent  out 
from  Spain  at  intervals  were  not  very  effective,  and 
it  was  not  until  1858  that  a  Spaniard  was  appointed 
Governor. 

Since  then  the  island  has  remained  nominally  under 
Spanish  rule.  British  influence  was,  however,  so 
persistent  that  in  1886  Oskar  Baumann  described 
Fernando  Po  as  being  "  entirely  EngHsh  excepting 
for  the  government."  But  of  recent  years  things 
have  changed,  especially  since  the  Spanish  mission 
*'  del  immaculado  corazon  de  Maria "  has  planted 
numerous  settlements  in  every  part  of  the  island. 

There  have  been  many  enterprises  on  the  part  of 
the  Government,  with  but  poor  results ;  costly  under- 
takings have  been  started,  which  have  either  failed 
altogether,  or  have  gradually  collapsed  owing  to  a 
lack  of  perseverance  and  interest.  What  was  started 
q2 


230       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

with  great  zeal  by  one  governor  was  allowed  by  his 
successor  to  fall  into  obUvion.  Bishop  Coll,  in  his 
book  on  Fernando  Po,  bewails  this  lack  of  stabiUty. 

Much  still  remains  to  be  done.  Roads,  in  the  sense 
of  passable  thoroughfares,  exist  only  on  paper,  and 
the  two  government  steamers  "  Annobon "  and 
"  Corisco  "  are  in  such  a  state  that  it  is  surprising 
that  they  can  still  maintain  the  service.  Nor  has 
the  Government  any  idea  of  influencing  the  native 
Bubis,  and  thus  solving  the  problem  of  procuring 
labourers.  The  lack  of  workmen  is  the  greatest  evil 
in  Fernando  Po,  and  unless  it  can  be  remedied,  it  will 
be  impossible  to  exploit  the  natural  wealth  of  the 
colony.  It  is,  however,  exceedingly  doubtful  whether 
any  improvement  will  ever  be  achieved  in  this  respect 
under  Spanish  dominion. 

When  British  influence  was  paramount  several 
scientific  expeditions  explored  the  island.  A  naval 
heutenant  named  Badgley  was  the  first  to  sm^ey  the 
coast,  and  his  results  have  laid  the  foundations  for  all 
subsequent  maps.  The  report  of  the  great  Niger 
expedition  of  the  year  1841,  written  by  Captain 
WiUiam  Allen  and  Dr  Thompson,  contains  a  detailed 
account  of  the  Bubis,  based  chiefly  on  the  reHable 
narratives  of  Beecroft.  Frazer,  the  zoologist  accom- 
panying the  expedition,  collected  some  valuable 
specimens.  The  botanist,  a  German  named  Vogel, 
was  ill  when  he  arrived  and  soon  succumbed  to  fever. 
Beside  him  Hes  Captain  Bird  Allen,  and  Santa  Isa- 
bella is  also  the  burying  place  of  Richard  Lander, 
whose  intrepid  voyage  into  the  unknown  in  a  small 
boat  down  the  Lower  Niger  disclosed  the  secret  of 
this  river,  thus  solving  one  of  the  most  obscure  pro- 
blems of  African  geography.    Fernando  Po  may  thus 


199.  Tree  overgrown  with  parasites  in  the  mountain  forest  above  Dasile. 


->55*y                           j^ 

.1 

200. 


Portion  of  a  branch  with  parasites. 
Detail  of  the  above  illustration. 


FERNANDO  PO  281 

be  styled  the  cemetery  of  the  Niger  expeditions.  And 
yet  it  is  not  the  entrance  to  Clarence  Cove  (the  bay 
of  Santa  Isabella)  that  has  been  named  by  mariners 
"the  gate  of  the  cemetery,"  but  the  mouth  of  the 
Nim  arm  of  the  Niger ;  in  these  swamps  they  were 
instilled  with  the  deadly  virus,  and  Port  Clarence 
merely  afforded  them  a  final  resting  place.  This  partly 
explains  the  island's  wholly  unjustified  reputation  for 
possessing  a  murderous  climate. 

The  British  consul  Beecroft  was  the  first  European 
to  ascend  the  Peak  in  1843 ;  he  was  followed  in  1860 
by  the  botanist  Gustav  Mann,  a  German  in  the  British 
service,  who  deserves  to  be  remembered  in  the  history 
of  Fernando  Po  as  an  explorer  of  the  highest  merit. 
He  was  to  have  joined  Baikies'  Niger  expedition  as 
Barter's  successor,  but  failed  to  do  so,  and  turned 
his  attention  with  the  greatest  zeal  to  the  study  of 
the  Guinea  Isles  and  the  adjoining  mainland.  He 
climbed  the  Clarence  Peak  five  times,  and  also  made 
the  ascent  of  the  Great  Cameroon  Mountain,  and  the 
highest  peaks  of  St  Thomas  and  Prince's  Island. 

On  the  basis  of  his  collections,  the  famous  botanist, 
Sir  Joseph  Hooker,  was  able  to  publish  his  "  Survey 
of  the  plants  growing  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Cameroon  Mountains,  and  in  the  islands  of  the  Bight 
of  Benin,"  and  to  demonstrate  the  surprising  affinity 
between  these  flowers  and  those  of  the  far-away  moun- 
tains of  Abyssinia,  at  a  time  when  nothing  was  as 
yet  known  concerning  the  vegetation  of  the  Kilimand- 
jaro  or  any  of  the  other  high  mountains  of  Central 
Africa.  In  the  year  1863  the  explorer  Burton  made 
the  ascent  of  the  Peak,  after  having  climbed  the 
Cameroon  Mountain  in  company  with  Mann.  Two 
years    previously    the    Spanish    Commissary,    Julian 


232      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

Pellon,  took  scientific  observations  from  the  summit 
of  the  Peak,  and  he  subsequently  made  a  map  of  the 
island,  which  in  many  respects  is  more  accurate 
than  that  of  Oskar  Baumann.  This  Austrian  ex- 
plorer, who  subsequently  made  a  name  for  himself 
by  his  travels  in  Usambara,  and  by  his  supposed  dis- 
covery of  the  source  of  the  Nile,  visited  Fernando 
Po  in  1886,  at  the  conclusion  of  his  researches  with 
the  Austrian  expedition  in  the  Congo  State.  He 
marched  from  Santa  Isabella  along  the  west  coast 
of  the  island  to  San  Carlos,  climbed  the  Cordillera, 
crossed  over  to  Concepcion  Bay,  and  finally,  in  the 
face  of  many  difficulties,  reached  the  village  of  Mokas, 
the  residence  of  the  head  chief  of  the  Bubis.  His 
book  entitled  "  Fernando  Po  and  the  Bubis  "  (Vienna, 
1888),  is  most  interesting,  and  contains  much  valuable 
ethnographical  information. 

In  1894  the  Portuguese  naturalist,  Newton,  paid  a 
flying  visit  to  the  island,  during  which  he  climbed 
the  Peak. 

Of  late  years  the  Spanish  missionaries  have  added 
considerably  to  our  knowledge  of  the  geography  of 
the  island ;  for  example,  they  discovered  the  crater 
lakes,  Lago  de  Moka  and  Lago  Loreto  in  the  South, 
and  Lago  Claret  in  the  South- West  on  a  terrace  of  the 
Peak,  as  well  as  some  springs  containing  carbonic 
acid  gas ;  they  have  also  done  excellent  work  re- 
garding the  ethnography  of  the  Bubis  and  their  lan- 
guage. The  "  Segunda  Memoria  de  las  Misiones  de 
Fernando  Poo "  written  by  Bishop  Armengol  Coll 
(Madrid,  1899)  contains  a  great  deal  of  valuable 
information. 

One  fact  needs  to  be  emphasised  :  even  though  the 
island    has    been    repeatedly    visited    by     scientific 


FERNANDO  PO  233 

travellers,  none  of  them  remained  more  than  a  short 
time,  and  it  has  never  yet  been  thoroughly  explored. 
Not  even  the  most  important  topographical  and  geo- 
logical data  are  forthcoming,  and  the  exploration  of 
Fernando  Po  is  an  interesting  but  still  unsolved  pro- 
blem, as  is  also  that  of  the  other  Guinea  Islands.  For 
this  purpose  a  special  expedition  is  required,  and  it 
would  furnish  far  more  important  results,  at  a  far 
less  expenditure  of  time  and  money  than  more  exten- 
sive travels  on  the  mainland. 

On  the  7th  of  August  we  proceeded  in  the  Cameroon 
Government  steamer  "  Duchess  Elizabeth "  from 
Kribi  to  Duala.  Here  we  transhipped  to  the  Woer- 
mann  steamer  "  Konig,"  hoping  to  join  at  Victoria 
the  Kttle  Spanish  steamer  that  fetches  the  mails  on 
the  9th  of  every  month.  But  as  the  departure  of 
the  "  Konig  "  seemed  likely  to  be  delayed  we  applied 
to  the  officials  at  Buea,  who  willingly  placed  the 
"  Duchess  Ehzabeth  "  at  our  disposal  for  the  crossing 
to  Fernando  Po. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  10th  of  August  we  steamed 
into  the  Bay  of  Santa  Isabella  just  as  a  smart  looking 
Spanish  vessel  left  the  harbour.  We  learned  later 
that  this  was  the  "  Corisco  "  conveying  the  Governor 
to  Spanish  Guinea,  over  which  he  also  has  jurisdiction. 

Santa  Isabella,  the  oldest  of  the  British  settlements, 
and  the  capital  of  Fernando  Po,  enjoys  a  position  as 
advantageous  as  it  is  beautiful.  Anyone  accustomed 
to  the  inaccessible  ports  along  the  coast  of  the  West 
African  mainland,  will  be  agreeably  surprised  on 
entering  the  harbour  of  Santa  Isabella.  The  semi- 
circle of  smooth  water  is  enclosed  by  rocks  a  hundred 
feet  in  height,  whose  precipitous  surface  is  clothed 
with  luxuriant  vegetation.    In  the  background  rises 


234       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

the  steep  slope  of  the  plateau  on  which  the  town  stands  ; 
on  the  left,  towards  the  East,  the  narrow,  over-hang- 
ing prominence  of  Punta  Fernanda  juts  out  into  the 
sea  (illus.  198),  with  a  little  Hghthouse  on  its  summit, 
whilst  on  the  right  is  another  similar  headland,  form- 
ing part  of  two  small  islands.  The  whole  prospect 
almost  gives  the  stranger  the  idea  of  a  crater  filled 
with  water,  and  its  inner  margin  is  scarcely  higher 
than  the  flat  country  which  gradually  slopes  up 
towards  the  interior,  where  it  culminates  in  the  Peak. 

From  the  landing-stage  the  road  leads  straight  up 
the  steep  slope,  at  the  top  of  which  is  a  "  plaza  " 
laid  out  in  gardens  filled  with  flowers.  It  is  sur- 
rounded on  three  sides  by  houses,  whilst  towards 
the  sea  the  edge  of  the  slope  is  safeguarded  by  a  low 
stone  balustrade.  The  roads,  some  of  which  are 
provided  with  a  footpath,  radiate  from  the  "  plaza." 
Few  of  the  houses  possess  front  gardens,  and  they 
are  crowded  together  into  so  small  a  space  that 
they  resemble  the  continuous  frontage  of  a  town 
street. 

Most  of  the  buildings  are  simple,  comprising  as  a 
rule  only  two  stories,  and  are  built  either  entirely  of 
wood,  or  with  a  stone  foundation  and  a  superstructure 
of  wood.     They  nearly  all  boast  of  a  verandah. 

The  uniformity  of  the  houses,  grouped  as  they  are 
round  a  common  centre,  the  plaza,  however  modest 
they  may  seem  on  a  closer  investigation,  makes  Santa 
Isabella  appear  much  more  "  townlike  "  than  many 
another  larger  and  more  important  place  on  the  West 
Coast,  for  example  the  scattered  and  straggling  Duala. 

We  were  hospitably  entertained  in  the  German 
house  of  Moritz,  where  we  renewed  our  acquaintance 
with  Herr  KruU,  and  with  the  other  gentlemen  whom 


FERNANDO  PO  235 

we  had  met  during  our  short  visit  on  the  way  out. 
One  of  the  owners,  too,  Herr  Edgar  Moritz  of  Hamburg, 
happened  to  be  staying  there,  and  welcomed  us  with 
the  utmost  cordiahty.  We  owe  him  our  hearty  thanks, 
for  without  his  co-operation  and  that  of  his  friends 
we  should  have  had  to  depart  without  having  effected 
our  object.  For  there  were  much  greater  difficulties 
to  be  faced  than  we  had  anticipated.  The  time  of 
year  was  most  unfavourable  owing  to  the  heavy  rain, 
and  bearers  could  not  be  obtained  at  any  price  on 
account  of  the  shortage  of  labourers,  which  made 
itself  doubly  felt  at  this  the  harvesting  time  on  the 
cocoa  farms.  But  for  Herr  Moritz  placing  some  of 
his  men  temporarily  at  our  disposal,  we  should  never 
have  got  beyond  the  coast. 

We  visited  first  the  Deputy-Governor  and  military 
comanandant,  JuUo  Pantoga.  He  gave  us  a  letter 
of  recommendation  to  the  Grovemment  officials,  and 
allowed  us  to  bring  in  the  greater  part  of  our  weapons 
and  ammunition  which  were  essential  to  us  for  collect- 
ing purposes.  The  duties  on  these  things  is  exceed- 
ingly heavy.  In  one  matter,  however,  he  declared 
himself  unable  to  meet  our  wishes,  assuring  us  that 
the  Governor  alone  had  the  power  to  do  so.  As  the 
rainy  season  lasts  until  the  end  of  November,  we  were 
anxious  to  visit  the  other  Guinea  Islands  first.  The 
only  service  connecting  them  is  that  of  a  little  Spanish 
steamer,  which  conveys  the  mails  twice  a  month  to 
Prince's  Isle.  Every  alternate  month  the  steamer 
touches  at  Annobon  on  the  way,  but  there  is  no 
regular  service  to  St  Thomas.  Our  request  was  that 
the  Governor  should  let  the  steamer  that  started 
for  Prince's  Isle  on  the  18th  of  September  proceed 
to  Annobon,  so  that  it  might  pick  us  up  there  and 


236      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

convey  us  to  St  Thomas.  Thence  we  could  easily 
have  travelled  to  Prince's  Isle  in  a  Portuguese  vessel. 
We  assured  Don  Julio  Pantoga  that  we  were  quite 
prepared  to  defray  any  extra  expense  entailed  by  this 
change  of  route,  but  he  refused  to  incur  the  responsi- 
bility of  making  any  alteration  in  the  steamer's  time- 
table. We  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  Governor, 
Angel  Barrera,  must  be  a  very  stern  gentleman,  and 
in  any  case  his  absence  seriously  disturbed  our  plans. 

Our  next  visit  was  paid  to  the  spiritual  head  of  the 
Spanish  possessions  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea  :  the  grey- 
haired  Bishop  P.  Armengol  Coll.  He  received  us 
most  kindly,  and  gave  us  introductions  to  the  heads 
of  the  various  mission  stations  in  Fernando  Po  and 
Annobon. 

We  arrived  on  the  10th  of  August,  and  the  first 
steamer  for  Annobon  left  on  the  2nd  of  September. 
I  determined  to  occupy  the  intervening  time  in 
collecting  botanical  specimens.  In  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  Santa  Isabella  the  original  vegeta- 
tion has  everywhere  given  way  to  cocoa  plantations, 
so  I  decided  to  explore  the  virgin  forest  above  the 
mission  station  of  Basile,  about  four  miles  inland, 
and  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  foot  of  the  Peak. 
Thither,  on  the  14th  of  August,  I  removed  my  camp, 
with  the  help  of  some  of  Herr  Moritz'  workmen.  The 
road  was  for  some  distance  flat,  and  led  through 
cocoa  plantations,  being  shaded  by  beautiful  mango 
trees.  Some  railway  lines  attracted  my  attention, 
but  they  were  overgrown  with  grass  and  evidently 
no  longer  used.  Here  and  there,  too,  were  broken 
pieces  of  telephone  wire. 

Some  of  the  cocoa  plantations  were  apparently 
well  kept,  but  some  were  overgrown  with  weeds,  and 


202.   Ravine  in  the  mountain  forest  on  the  peak  of  Santa  Isabel. 


FERNANDO  PO  237 

much  of  the  fruit  showed  signs  of  brown  rot.  This 
disease  seemed  to  me  to  be  induced  by  too  much 
shade,  for  in  a  moist  climate  hke  that  of  Fernando 
Po  the  cocoa  plant  thrives  best  in  the  open,  and 
on  a  slight  incline  where  a  gentle  breeze  provides 
ventilation.  Violent  winds  from  the  sea  are  of  course 
undesirable,  and  must  be  excluded  by  means  of  a  forest 
screen. 

The  road  rose  gradually,  until  within  a  short  distance 
of  Basile  it  became  fairly  steep.  Here  the  cocoa  tree 
obviously  ceases  to  flourish.  At  any  altitude  above 
1300  feet  it  will  not  grow,  the  fresh  mountain  air  being 
too  cold  for  this  product  of  the  warm  jungle.  Here, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  elephant  grass  {Pennisetum  cf, 
Benthami)  finds  conditions  favourable  to  its  growth, 
and  shoots  up  luxuriantly  wherever  the  primeval 
forest  has  been  disturbed.  Since  the  natives  usually 
build  their  villages  at  an  altitude  of  from  one  to  two 
thousand  feet,  it  follows  that  in  many  places  a  belt 
of  this  giant  grass  encircles  the  mountains,  and  this 
is  correctly  described  by  Oskar  Baumann  as  a  specia 
"  grass  zone."  But  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that 
these  zones  are  originally  due  to  man's  encroachment, 
and  they  are  quite  different  in  character  to  the  in- 
digenous prairies,  the  grassy  slopes  near  the  summit 
of  the  Peak,  or  the  "  grasslands  "  of  Moka. 

Owing  to  its  healthy,  bracing  climate,  Basile  was 
selected  in  1892  as  the  site  for  a  settlement  of 
Spanish  colonists.  A  mission  station  was  founded  and 
some  Spanish  Marine  Infantry  barracks  were  erected. 
Later  on  a  Governor  added  a  summer  residence  for 
himself.  I  could  not  help  drawing  a  comparison 
between  this  place  and  the  mountain  residence  of  the 
Cameroon  Governor  at    Buea,  in  which   the  German 


238      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

settlement  did  not  appear  to  advantage.  Even  during 
the  rainy  season  Basile  is  almost  always  below  the 
level  of  the  clouds,  and  the  view  over  Santa  Isabella 
and  the  sea  remains  clear,  whereas  Buea,  which  is 
3000  feet  high,  often  remains  wrapped  in  dripping 
clouds  for  many  months  at  a  time.  It  is  scarcely 
necessary  to  add  that  such  an  atmosphere  is  most 
depressing  to  the  spirits  of  the  residents. 

I  pitched  my  tent  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
barracks.  This  is  a  large  square  building  resting  on 
piles,  and  surrounded  by  a  verandah.  At  present 
the  only  inhabitant  is  a  married  Spanish  non-com- 
missioned officer,  who  supervises  a  few  black  soldiers 
and  a  great  many  children.  The  fate  of  this 
building  recalled  that  of  the  unfortunate  Musola 
"  sanatorium." 

Before  we  had  finished  pitching  the  tents,  a  steamer, 
the  "  Cameroon "  of  the  Woermann  line,  was  seen 
entering  the  bay  of  Santa  Isabella.  The  bearers 
consequently  hurried  off,  as  Herr  Moritz  would  re- 
quire them  for  unloading  the  vessel,  and  I  was  left 
alone  with  my  "  boys."  I  collected  several  botanical 
specimens  in  the  forest  above  Basile,  although  I  was 
considerably  hampered  in  my  work  by  the  incessant 
rain.  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  flora  here 
was  very  similar  to  that  of  the  Cameroons,  and  sTiowed 
few  distinctive  features. 

We  had  planned  to  make  the  ascent  of  the  Peak, 
even  if  we  had  to  postpone  it  until  our  return  from 
Annobon,  so  I  made  up  my  mind  to  reconnoitre  the 
path,  and  to  climb  as  far  at  all  events  as  the  corru- 
gated iron  hut  erected  some  years  ago  as  a  shoot- 
ing box  on  the  higher  wooded  slopes  of  the  mountain. 
It  was  used,  too,  by  travellers  as  a  shelter  on  their  way 


FERNANDO  PO  239 

to  the  summit,  and  was  built,  I  believe,  by  Don 
Victoriano  Calatayud  and  the  Governor  de  Vera. 

One  of  the  brothers  belonging  to  the  Basile  mission, 
with  whom  I  conversed  laboriously  in  nigger  EngKsh, 
and  one  or  two  Bubi  pupils,  accompanied  me  as  guides. 
The  path  led  upwards  through  some  fields  belonging 
to  the  mission,  and  over  a  stream  across  which  a  fairly 
soHd  bridge  had  been  erected.  The  strong  walled- 
up  buttresses  were  still  intact,  but  the  planking  was 
almost  worn  away,  and  the  girders  were  partly  eaten 
away  with  rust. 

We  also  passed  a  wall  enclosing  a  square  plot  of 
elephant  grass,  longer  and  thicker  than  the  most 
luxuriant  reeds.  At  a  subsequent  visit,  I  noticed 
that  the  grass  had  been  cut,  and  lo  and  behold,  the 
place  was  a  cemetery !  After  crossing  the  bridge, 
we  climbed  to  a  cocoa  farm,  which  was  situated 
too  high,  and  was  consequently  almost  barren  of 
fruit.  The  path  was  so  slippery  that  we  had  to  catch 
hold  of  the  branches  of  the  cocoa  trees.  After  this 
we  came  to  a  virgin  forest,  through  which  a  narrow, 
overgrown  path  sloped  gently  upwards. 

With  the  cocoa  plantations  we  had  left  behind  us 
the  moist,  warm,  tropical  jungle  region.  The  Daniellia 
dblonga  grows  scarcely  as  high  as  Basils  ;  this  is  a 
favourite  tree  for  shading  the  plantations,  its  smooth, 
grey,  pillar-Uke  stems  rising  to  a  height  of  about  a 
hundred  feet  and  then  spreading  out  into  a  mass  of 
fohage.  During  the  rainy  season  it  is  leafless,  and 
at  the  beginning  of  the  dry  season,  before  the  appear- 
ance of  the  new  fohage,  it  is  covered  with  a  profusion 
of  pale  mauve  blossoms.  The  Allanhlackia  floribunda 
grows  above  Basile,  forming  about  three-quarters 
of  the  whole  forest.    This  is  an  unusual  number  for 


240      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

a  tropical  jungle,  and  is  probably  due  to  some  local 
peculiarity  of  the  soil.  The  underwood  is  not  so 
dense  as  to  seriously  impede  the  progress  of  the 
traveller,  who  can  leave  the  path  without  being  obliged 
to  use  his  axe. 

At  an  altitude  of  about  2500  feet  a  gradual  change 
is  noticeable  in  the  character  of  the  vegetation. 
Allanhlackia  still  predominates,  but  here  and  there 
other  trees  are  to  be  seen,  which  really  belong  to  a 
higher  region :  e.g.  Polyscias  fulva  {Hiern.)  Harms, 
and  also  mosses  and  ferns,  which  begin  to  clothe  the 
branches,  and  betray  the  influence  of  fog,  which  is 
an  important  climatic  factor.  A  very  moist  atmo- 
sphere combined  with  a  moderate  temperature  form 
the  most  favourable  conditions  for  the  growth  of  these 
delicate  cryptogamic  epiphytes.  Numerous  flowering 
plants,  especially  begonias  and  acanthacias,  mingle 
with  the  ferns,  so  that  many  of  the  branches  form 
veritable  gardens  in  miniature.    (lUus.  199,  200.) 

We  crossed  a  clear  rivulet,  and  on  the  tree  trunks 
thrown  across  it  grew  tree  ferns  with  their  slim  black 
stalks  and  bright  green  fronds,  truly  the  most  charm- 
ing sight  in  the  whole  jungle.  In  one  place  we  tra- 
versed a  narrow  ridge,  with  deep  ravines  on  each 
side. 

The  forest  gradually  changed,  and  the  beautiful 
trees  gave  place  to  gnarled  varieties  with  wide  tops ; 
in  the  undergrowth  the  bushes  became  fewer,  and 
were  mingled  with  flowering  plants  with  soft  herba- 
ceous stems.  We  had  reached  the  home  of  the  acan- 
thaciee,  of  which  one  specially  beautiful  variety  with 
crimson  blossoms  might  at  a  little  distance  be  mistaken 
for  a  rhododendron. 

We    climbed    slowly    upwards    in    a    dripping    fog, 


203.    Pasture  region  of  the  peak  with  a  secondary  crater  to  the  north 
of  the  main  summit. 


204.   View  of  the  "Cordillera"  from  the  north  across  the  Bay 
of  San  Carlos. 


205.    In  the  grass-land  of  Moka. 


206.    Ravine  in  the  grass-land  of  Moka,  with  tree  ferns  and 
Mimulopsis. 


FERNANDO  PO  241 

through  a  gloomy  forest,  in  which  the  trees  were 
thickly  covered  with  moss.  And  yet  it  was  here 
that  the  animal  world  was  specially  plentiful.  We 
roused  troops  of  various  kinds  of  meer-cats,  and  some 
little  silver-grey  dwarf  antelopes  made  off  on  hearing 
our  approach. 

This  explained  why  the  shooting  box  had  been  built 
so  high  up,  in  a  most  dreary  situation  at  all  events 
in  the  rainy  season.  Shortly  before  reaching  it,  we 
entered  upon  a  new  zone  of  plant  life. 

Up  till  now  the  tree  tops  had  formed  an  almost 
continuous  screen,  but  now  there  were  occasional 
gaps,  and  in  the  clearances  a  herbaceous  plant  grew 
with  indescribable  luxuriance  in  the  black,  spongy 
soil.  In  places  it  was  replaced  by  a  little  forest  of 
tree  ferns.  (lUus.  201.)  My  heart  sank  at  the  pros- 
pect, and  I  had  less  hope  of  reaching  the  summit  of 
the  Peak.  I  was  familiar  with  this  kind  of  wilder- 
ness on  the  Cameroon  Mountain,  the  Central  African 
Mountains,  the  volcanoes  near  Lake  Kiwu,  and  the 
Ruwenzori.  If  the  shoots  grew  vertically,  it  would 
not  be  so  difficult  to  make  a  way  through  them,  for 
the  longest  and  thickest  elephant  grass  or  the  worst 
undergrowth  of  the  jungle  yields  eventually  to  a  clear- 
ing knife  wielded  by  the  negro's  powerful  wrist.  But 
it  is  a  much  more  laborious  undertaking  to  bore  one's 
way  through  a  "  loofah-sponge,"  each  of  whose  fibres 
consists  of  strong,  woody  branches  of  the  thickness 
of  one's  thumb.  No  single  plant  can  be  distinguished, 
for  the  branching  stems  grow  along  the  ground  in  every 
direction,  mingling  and  intertwining  till  they  form  a 
compact  mass,  which,  with  the  fresh  shoots,  may  attain 
a  height  of  twelve  feet.  Even  a  buffalo  or  an  elephant 
would  have  difficulty  in  making  his  way  through. 


242      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

The  shooting  box  is  situated  at  the  lower  border 
of  this  belt  of  trees  with  its  formidable  thicket,  4750 
feet  above  the  sea  level.  It  is  a  corrugated  iron  hut, 
about  twenty  feet  by  twelve,  with  a  door  and  one 
window,  and  contains  a  rough  table  and  a  few  bed- 
steads, that  is  to  say,  shelves  supported  on  posts  and 
covered  with  sacking.  It  has  been  used  for  several 
years  by  the  Bubi  hunters  of  the  mission,  and  is  in 
a  very  neglected  state.  A  fire  was  lighted,  but  the 
damp  wood  created  a  suffocating  smoke,  and  I  did 
not  envy  the  mission  Brother  and  his  pupils,  who 
intended  to  spend  the  night  there. 

I  descended  to  Basile  in  pouring  rain,  having  given 
up  all  idea  of  reaching  the  summit  in  view  of  the 
difficulties  arising  from  the  lack  of  men  and  the  for- 
midable jungle.  I  had,  however,  found  a  mountain 
forest  such  as  probably  exists  nowhere  else  in  Africa,  or 
indeed  in  the  world,  and  I  made  up  my  mind  to 
transfer  my  camp  to  a  spot  where  I  could  collect 
specimens.  I  chose  a  site  about  2800  feet  above  the 
sea,  near  a  little  stream  with  beautiful  tree  ferns, 
where,  at  the  edge  of  a  deep  ravine,  there  was  a  flat 
shelf  on  which  the  tents  could  be  pitched. 

On  the  17th  of  August  I  left  Basile  accompanied 
by  five  croo-boys,  whom  Schultze  had  with  great 
difficulty  secured  in  Santa  Isabella,  and  a  number 
of  Bubi  boys  from  the  mission.  The  latter  caused 
me  much  annoyance,  for  though  most  of  the  loads 
were  light,  and  the  boys  were  sturdy,  they  insisted 
on  having  only  one  load  between  two  of  them,  so 
that  they  could  carry  it  in  turn.  Intervals  of  rest 
ought  to  have  been  sufficient,  but  I  was  thankful  to 
get  any  bearers  at  all.  In  this  way  I  did  not  get  all 
my  possessions  transferred  until  the  third  day. 


FERNANDO  PO  243 

After  the  first  night  Schultze's  five  croo-boys  ran 
away.  So  I  was  left  alone  with  my  old  Bule  head- 
man Ekomeno,  the  two  Togo  "  pearls,"  and  the  little 
tent  boy  from  Bamenda,  in  a  country  which  they 
described  as  "  bad  too  much,"  with  which  I  heartily 
agreed. 

The  view  from  my  tent  across  the  deep  ravine,  on 
the  other  side  of  which  the  lichen- covered  forest  giants 
reared  their  mighty  heads,  was  certainly  most  beauti- 
ful ;  so  was  the  rippling  torrent  bordered  with  tree 
ferns,  begonias,  and  balsamines,  whilst  the  Httle  water- 
fall below  my  camp,  in  its  frame  of  exotic  fohage 
would  have  sent  a  painter  into  ecstacies.  (Illus. 
202.)  But  my  enthusiasm  for  the  beauties  of  nature 
was  sensibly  diminished  owing  to  my  being  every  day 
drenched  to  the  skin,  and  enveloped  in  a  wet,  cold 
fog  wliich  covered  the  tent  ropes  with  mould.  We 
suffered  enough  from  the  cold  and  wet  on  the  volcanoes 
near  Lake  Kiwu,  but  never  anything  like  what  I  went 
through  in  Fernando  Po.  As  a  matter  of  fact  the 
thermometer  never  fell  below  54°  F.,  but  even  this 
was  a  great  contrast  to  the  temperature  of  the  West 
Coast. 

On  Sunday,  the  19th  of  August,  Schultze  came  up 
from  Santa  Isabella  with  the  intention  of  ascending 
the    Peak.    Herr    Moritz    had    succeeded    in    finding 
some  more  bearers  to  come  as  far  as  ray  camp,  which 
was  to  serve  as  a  depot,  as  well  as  five  men  to  accom 
pany   him   on   this   expedition.    An   educated   Bubi 
speaking  excellent  Spanish  and  a  Uttle  pigeon  EngHsh 
had  also  consented  to  act  as  guide  at  a  high  remunera 
tion.    Schultze  was  ready  to  start  the  following  day 
taking  with  him  his  large  tent  and  two  smaller  ones 
together  with  provisions  for  six  days.    He  climbed  as 


244      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

far  as  the  corrugated  iron  hut,  where  he  spent  the 
night,  and  the  next  day  he  began  his  struggle  with 
the  thorn  thicket.  He  describes  his  experiences  in 
his  diary  in  the  following  words : — 

"  Cutting  our  way  through  this  thorn  hedge  was 
a  herculean  task.  On  the  way  up  it  took  me  eight 
hours  to  cover  a  distance  which  was  accomplished 
on  the  return  journey  in  fifty  minutes.  Meanwhile 
it  was  pouring  with  rain,  and  in  spite  of  thick  boots 
and  a  waterproof,  I  was  drenched  to  the  skin  within 
an  hour.  The  worst  of  all  was  that  I  could  not  see 
twenty  yards  ahead  of  me,  and  in  the  level  places 
the  work  was  most  exhausting,  the  thicket  being 
well-nigh  impenetrable.  My  men  were  soon  quite 
tired  out,  and  I  myself  found  it  hard  to  exhibit  any 
hope  of  ultimate  success. 

"  To-day  (the  22nd  of  August)  was  even  worse 
than  yesterday.  We  hewed  a  way  desperately  through 
the  same  impenetrable  jungle,  but  to-day  a  great 
many  fallen  trees  lay  in  the  road,  so  that  we  lost  much 
time  in  avoiding  them.  To-day's  stage,  over  which 
I  returned  in  fifteen  minutes,  necessitated  seven 
hours'  hard  work  by  my  frozen  and  dispirited  men. 
Although  I  gave  them  rum  at  intervals,  they  suffered 
greatly  from  the  cold,  coughing,  and  showing  all  the 
premonitory  signs  of  fever.  At  times  they  refused 
to  proceed  any  further,  and  I  had  great  difficulty  in 
keeping  up  their  flagging  spirits.  I  myself  was 
soaked  to  the  skin  and  bitterly  cold.  There  seemed 
little  hope  of  success,  and  the  pitiless  rain  shut  out 
all  view  of  our  surroundings.  I  was  tired  to  death 
when  at  four  o'clock  we  turned  back,  having  reached 
an  altitude  of  5600  feet." 

For  two  days  Schultze  continued  to  hew  his  way 


FERNANDO  PO  245 

through  the  thicket  under  these  trying  conditions, 
but  when,  after  attaining  a  height  of  6600  feet,  he 
found  the  thicket  becoming  if  possible  worse,  with 
no  signs  of  the  grassy  slopes  of  the  summit,  he  gave 
up  in  despair. 

He  decided  to  relinquish  the  attempt,  partly  on 
account  of  the  exhausted  state  of  his  men,  and  partly 
because  Herr  Moritz  had  promised  to  send  bearers 
on  the  27th  of  August  to  fetch  our  baggage,  so  that 
we  might  start  for  Annobon  on  the  2nd  of  September. 
Schultze  returned  to  my  camp  on  the  25th  of  August, 
and  on  the  27th  he  went  back  to  Santa  Isabella,  where 
I  rejoined  him  a  few  days  later. 

He  was,  however,  determined  not  to  give  up  the 
struggle  with  the  Peak,  and  on  our  return  from 
Annobon  on  the  31st  of  October,  he  renewed  the 
attack  whilst  I  was  still  in  San  Carlos.  This  time 
the  weather  was  more  favourable,  and  he  succeeded 
after  a  hard  struggle  in  reaching  the  grassy  slopes 
above  the  thorn  thicket.  But  he  was  fated  not  to 
reach  the  summit.  He  had  still  an  hour's  climb 
before  him  when  a  violent  thunderstorm,  accompanied 
by  torrents  of  ice-cold  rain,  forced  him  to  retrace  his 
steps.  Exhaustion  combined  with  a  dearth  of  pro- 
visions obliged  him  to  give  up  the  attempt  and 
descend  the  mountain.  He  describes  his  experiences 
as  follows  : — 

"This  intolerable  situation,  in  the  midst  of  violent 
electrical  discharges,  had  lasted  for  about  half  an 
hour  when  on  looking  round  at  my  men,  I  reahsed 
that  they  seemed  to  be  almost  at  their  last  gasp ; 
they  were  rolling  on  the  ground  benumbed  with  the 
cold,  with  chattering  teeth.  I  felt  sure  that  they 
could  save  themselves  only  by  walking,   and  I  en- 


246      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

deavoured  to  rouse  them.  Persuasion  and  threats 
were  of  no  avail ;  at  length  I  brought  them  to  their 
senses  with  violent  blows,  and  induced  them  to  return 
to  camp,  leaving  the  baggage  behind." 

On  the  way  down  Schultze  found  one  of  the  men 
quite  benumbed,  and  it  was  only  by  kicking  and  beat- 
ing him  that  he  succeeded  in  forcing  him  to  get  up. 
Every  time  he  stumbled  he  wanted  to  be  left  to 
die  in  peace,  and  two  others  were  in  a  similar 
condition. 

"  Was  this  fatahsm,  or  boundless  indolence  ?  Even 
when  face  to  face  with  death  the  negro  is  apparently 
incapable  of  sunamoning  up  an  atom  of  courage  in 
order  to  save  his  life." 

This  description  recalls  that  of  my  friend  Kirch- 
stein,  who  on  the  Duke's  first  expedition  lost  twenty 
men  in  a  snowstorm  on  the  volcano  Karissimbi,  near 
Lake  Kiwu. 

After  this  experience  Schultze  lost  all  desire  to  make 
any  further  attempt  to  reach  the  summit.  On  the 
9th  of  November  he  crossed  to  Victoria  in  the  httle 
Spanish  steamer,  and  returned  home  in  the  "  Lucie 
Woermann."    His  diary  ends  as  follows  : — 

"  I  gained  little  from  all  the  strenuous  and  dis- 
couraging labour  of  cutting  a  path.  Mildbraed  Tvdll 
enjoy  the  fruits,  and  I  shall  earnestly  beg  him  to  ascend 
the  Peak  now  that  the  weather  is  improving  daily, 
and  not  allow  it  to  defeat  the  expedition." 

I  found  this  request  as  a  legacy  on  my  return  to 
Santa  Isabella  from  San  Carlos,  the  day  after  Schultze's 
departure.  He  had  also  left  me  detailed  instructions 
as  to  the  road,  in  fact  a  "  Baedeker  "  of  the  Peak. 
I  cannot  say  that  I  felt  tempted ;  I,  too,  had  had 
enough  of  it,  and  should  have  preferred  to  remain 


FERNANDO  PO  247 

quietly  in  Herr  Moritz'  hospitable  house  until  the 
arrival  of  the  steamer.  In  the  end,  however,  I  yielded 
to  my  annoyance  at  being  beaten  by  the  Peak  after 
climbing  so  many  other  African  mountains,  and  to 
my  anxiety  not  to  enable  the  Spaniards  to  gloat  over 
our  ineffectual  attempts.  I  soon  packed  up  a  few 
necessaries,  and  succeeded  in  inducing  Herr  Krull 
to  accompany  me. 

The  path  being  already  made,  we  could  plan  out 
our  daily  stages  beforehand.  The  first  day  we  cUmbed 
as  far  as  the  corrugated  iron  hut,  and  the  second  to 
a  "  bush-hut "  constructed  by  Schultze's  men  with 
branches  and  twigs,  at  an  altitude  of  6000  feet.  We 
were  tormented  in  our  tents  by  a  swarm  of  wild  bees ; 
they  did  not  sting  much,  but  were  intolerably  per- 
sistent. They  covered  the  ground  that  had  been 
cleared  for  our  tents ;  they  attacked  our  boots  and  our 
food ;  they  buzzed  in  our  faces,  and  everything  that 
we  touched  had  a  bee  reposing  on  it.  Some  of  them 
clung  together  in  great  balls.  We  lighted  a  fire  hoping 
that  the  smoke  would  drive  them  away,  but  it  did 
not  do  much  good. 

On  the  third  day  we  reached  the  summit.  (Vide 
col.  illus.)  The  upper  forest  with  its  formidable  under- 
growth of  acanihadce  (chiefly  Mimulopsis  violacea 
Hook.  /.  and  Oreacanihus  Mannii  Hook.  /.)  appeared 
to  be  endless.  In  spite  of  Schultze's  strenuous 
labour,  the  path  did  not  afford  pleasant  climbing, 
and  many  were  the  curses  that  escaped  us  as  we  made 
our  way  up.  Exclamations  of  admiration  mingled 
with  our  grumbling,  for  though  I  had  often  crawled 
through  Mimulopsis  thickets  before,  I  had  never 
seen  them  in  bloom.  It  is  only  for  a  short  time  in 
the  year  that  millions  and  milUons  of  large,  wide  open, 


248      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

violet-coloured  bells  convert  the  bushes  into  a  sea 
of  blossom  indescribably  beautiful. 

The  trees  were  now  smaller  and  stood  further  apart ; 
at  first  they  were  mostly  Heptapleurum  Mannii,  but 
higher  up  the  pretty  Hypericum  lanceolatum,  with 
its  large  yellow  blossoms,  gained  the  upper  hand, 
until  in  the  highest  part  of  the  forest  it  was  the  only 
tree,  with  the  exception  of  the  Pittosporum  Mannii. 

At  last  we  stood  on  the  grassy  slopes  which  form 
the  final  five  hundred  yards  of  the  summit. 

We  scrambled  up  on  to  a  ridge,  where  immortelles 
with  white  heads  were  growing,  together  with  ger- 
aniums, clover,  violets,  and  heather.  Then  we  de- 
scended a  grassy  slope  until  we  reached  the  foot  of 
the  actual  summit,  which  we  stormed  with  enthusiasm. 

The  crater  is  about  550  feet  deep,  but  the  greater 
part  of  its  northern  side  has  fallen  in,  so  that  from 
a  little  distance,  and  still  more  when  seen  from  the 
coast,  the  summit  gives  the  impression  of  a  comb  or 
ridge,  rounded  by  age,  and  covered  with  grass  and 
bushes.  The  vegetation  of  the  grassy  slopes  is  more 
luxuriant  than  that  of  the  neighbouring  Cameroon 
Mountain,  and  shows  a  profusion  of  Ericin^lla  plants, 
absent  only  at  the  very  summit.     (lUus.  203.) 

We  looked  for  traces  of  our  predecessors,  and  found 
a  little  wooden  cross  bleached  by  the  weather,  which 
the  Spanish  Fathers  had  erected  when  they  climbed 
the  Peak  with  the  Portuguese  naturalist  Newton  on 
Christmas  Day  1894.  Their  records  were  enclosed 
in  a  tin,  which  we  removed  and  took  to  Santa  Isa- 
bella. In  a  bottle  we  found  another  label  showing 
that  the  geologist  Dr  Esch  had  been  here  in  1899, 
accompanied  by  Victoriano  Calatayud. 

We,  too,  placed  our  names  on  a  slip  of  paper  in  a 


FERNANDO  PO  249 

bottle,  and  then  we  began  the  descent.  Unfortunately 
it  was  growing  late,  and  it  was  already  dark  when 
we  reached  Schultze's  bush-hut,  whence  we  had  still 
a  two  hours'  walk  to  our  camp.  Here  the  croo-boys' 
sense  of  locality  failed,  as  did  that  of  a  "  boy  "  whom 
we  had  sent  on,  unfortunately  too  late,  to  fetch  a 
lantern.  He  had  taken  our  cloaks  with  him,  so  we 
sat  all  night  long  without  food,  without  warm  cloth- 
ing, and  without  a  fire,  for  the  wood  was  damp,  and 
our  matches  were  soon  exhausted.  We  shivered  and 
our  teeth  chattered,  for  we  were  too  cold  to  sleep  in 
spite  of  the  fatigues  of  the  previous  day.  It  was 
my  last  night  in  the  African  "  bush,"  and  I  shall  not 
easily  forget  it ! 

At  the  first  streaks  of  dawn  we  returned  to  camp, 
where  we  crept  into  our  tent  in  order  to  get  a  few 
hours'  sleep  before  descending  the  remaining  6000 
feet. 

Herr  KruU  walked  first,  and  I  followed  slowly  in 
order  to  take  a  few  more  photographs  on  the  way. 
Before  we  reached  Basile  we  heard  a  steamer's  syren ; 
it  was  the  "  Cameroon  "  of  the  Woermann  line,  which 
was  to  convey  me  to  Duala. 

On  the  15th  of  October  we  returned  in  the 
"  Nachtigal  "  from  Annobon  to  Santa  Isabella,  and  on 
the  18th  we  went  on  board  the  little  steamer  "  Annobon  " 
which  was  to  convey  us  to  San  Carlos.  From  here  we 
intended  to  explore  the  South  of  Fernando  Po  as  far 
as  the  unfavourable  weather  conditions  would  permit. 

The  configuration  of  the  island,  which  covers  an 
area  of  about  1200  square  miles,  is  a  rectangular  paral- 
lelogram divisible  into  two  parts,  a  north  and  a  south. 

The   north   comprises   the   slopes   of   the   Peak   of 


250      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

Santa  Isabella.  The  southern  part,  whose  long  axis 
is  at  right  angles  to  that  of  the  other,  has  two  bays  : 
the  larger  Bahia  de  San  Carlos  in  the  West,  and  the 
smaller  Bahia  de  Concepcion  in  the  East.  The  moun- 
tains of  the  southern  half  of  the  island  are  the  Cordilleras 
in  the  West,  and  the  Moka  range  in  the  East. 

As  seen  from  the  North,  the  Cordilleras  form  a  steep 
mountain  range  with  a  jagged  ridge  Uke  a  saw.  (lUus. 
204.)  Oskar  Baumann,  who  is  probably  the  only 
European  who  has  ever  climbed  this  ridge,  gives  its 
altitude  as  9500  feet,  but  as  the  forest  shuts  out  all 
the  surroundings,  he  could  not  make  an  accurate 
measurement  with  his  imperfect  instruments. 

Next  to  the  capital,  San  Carlos  is  the  most  important 
town  in  Fernando  Po.  A  Government  representative 
resides  there,  also  a  physician  in  charge  of  a  hospital. 
A  Spanish  mission  is  situated  just  above  the  town, 
and  one  belonging  to  the  EngUsh  Baptists  higher  up 
in  the  mountains. 

Towards  the  North  the  inhabitants  of  San  Carlos 
enjoy  a  maginficent  view  over  the  sea  and  the  Peak, 
which  from  here  seems  much  steeper  and  more  imposing 
than  from  Santa  Isabella. 

The  bay  of  San  Carlos  forms  an  excellent  harbour, 
completely  sheltered  from  the  prevailing  south-westerly 
winds,  and  in  its  almost  unlimited  capacity  surpassing 
that  of  Santa  Isabella. 

One  of  the  chief  reasons  that  induced  us  to  visit 
San  Carlos  was  a  desire  to  explore  the  virgin  forests 
of  the  interior,  since  in  the  North  they  have  had  to 
make  way  for  the  cocoa  plantations.  The  latter  extend 
from  Santa  Isabella  on  both  sides  of  the  island  along 
the  coast  to  a  Httle  beyond  the  bay  of  Concepcion  in 
the  East,  and  to  Bokoko  in  the  West.    In  the  South 


FERNANDO  PO  251 

there  are  as  yet  no  plantations,  since  the  harbours  on 
this  side  are  not  favourable,  and,  moreover,  there  is,  so 
far,  no  need  of  any  further  extension. 

These  vast  plantations  belong  to  a  man  named 
Wilson,  living  in  Santa  Isabella,  and  to  the  wealthy 
and  influential  Sierra  Leone  negro,  Maxim  Jones.  Some 
time  ago  they  were  laid  out  by  a  Spanish  Captain 
Romera  in  such  a  manner  that  if  they  had  been  properly 
developed,  they  might  have  competed  with  the  Portu- 
guese cocoa  plantations  of  St  Thomas.  Romera  is 
said  to  have  employed  six  hundred  workmen,  but  he 
must  have  mismanaged  his  affairs,  for  this  fine  property 
passed  into  other  hands,  and  has  steadily  degenerated 
ever  since. 

At  the  present  time  everything  is  miserably  neglected, 
and  Mr  Lewis  is  attempting  the  impossible  task  of 
restoring  and  keeping  up  this  vast  property  with  but 
one-tenth  of  the  workmen  employed  by  Romera. 
Entire  cocoa  fields  have  recently  been  reclaimed  from 
the  rapidly  growing  bush ;  wild  hogs  have  made  their 
home  in  the  Manila  hemp  plantation,  which  has  been 
utterly  abandoned ;  one  cocoa  plantation  in  the 
mountains  has  so  entirely  died  away  that  the  way 
to  it  has  been  forgotten ;  a  handsome  iron  and  wood 
house,  imported  from  England  in  sections,  and  which 
was  intended  as  a  dwelling  for  European  officials,  stands 
empty  and  in  ruins,  and  only  the  plantations  nearest  to 
the  manager's  house  are  maintained  in  fair  order  by 
the  few  available  workmen. 

I  went  in  a  boat  supplied  by  Herr  Friedrich,  my 
host  in  San  Carlos,  to  Bokoko,  where  I  was  very  kindly 
received  by  Mr  Lewis,  an  Englishman,  who  is  the 
manager  of  the  plantations.  Here  I  added  to  my 
botanical  collection  as  far  as  was  possible  in  the  very 


252      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

wet  weather.  For  three  days  of  the  week  it  rained 
almost  uninterruptedly.  I  am  not  sure  whether  I 
really  found  a  virgin  forest,  for  it  is  possible  that  the 
Bubis  may  long  ago  have  had  a  settlement  here. 
Mr  Lewis  showed  me  in  a  cocoa  plantation  not  far 
from  his  house,  a  basaltic  column  rising  obhquely  out 
of  the  ground,  on  which  the  Bubis  are  said  to  sacrifice 
fowls  occasionally  at  night.  The  few  natives  that  I 
came  across  here  were  unusually  muscular,  and  some- 
what scantily  dressed  individuals,  very  different  from 
the  degenerate  specimens  to  be  seen  in  the  streets  of 
Santa  Isabella. 

When  I  had  been  in  Bokoko  a  week,  Herr  Friedrich 
sent  his  boat  to  fetch  me  away.  I  found  that  Schultze 
had  left  San  Carlos  ;  after  buying  all  the  native  utensils 
that  he  could  find  in  the  neighbouring  Bubi  villages, 
he  had  returned  to  Santa  Isabella,  in  order  to  make 
another  attempt  to  reach  the  summit  of  the  Peak. 

For  my  part  I  was  very  anxious  to  see  the  Moka 
prairies,  of  whose  beauty  I  had  heard  so  much  from 
Herr  Krull  and  Herr  Lieb.  But  how  was  I  to  get  there  ? 
Bearers  could  not  be  obtained  to  accompany  me  so 
far  at  any  price.  Eventually  Herr  Friedrich  suc- 
ceeded in  securing  the  services  of  two  men  for  one 
day,  who  undertook  to  carry  the  essential  part  of  my 
luggage  to  the  Mission  station  Musola,  leaving  my 
tent  behind. 

The  road  leads  along  the  southern  shore  of  the 
bay,  as  far  as  the  Vivour  plantation  at  its  eastern  ex- 
tremity. At  the  time  when  Baumann  visited  the  island 
W.  A.  Vivour,  a  Sierra  Leone  negro,  was  the  chief 
land-owner  and  one  of  the  most  influential  merchants 
in  Fernando  Po.  Since  his  death  this  large  property 
has  been  somewhat  neglected,  and  in  the  face  of  the 


FERNANDO  PO  258 

present  dearth  of  labourers  it  would  be  difficult  for 
even  the  most  energetic  of  owners  to  keep  it  up. 

Beyond  Vivour's  farm  the  road  becomes  very  bad, 
and  leads  first  of  all  through  the  forest,  and  then  again 
through  cocoa  plantations,  some  of  which  belong  to 
the  Bubis  and  others  to  the  Mission.  Here  there  are 
also  a  number  of  splendid  oil  palms,  the  produce  of  which 
is  now  of  little  account,  though  before  the  introduction 
of  cocoa,  it  was  the  principal  export  of  the  island.  It 
is  much  to  be  regretted  that  the  Bubis  neither  avail 
themselves  of  the  existing  palm  groves,  nor  plant  new 
trees.  They  need  only  supply  the  raw  fruit ;  very 
little  machinery  would  be  needed  to  express  the  oil, 
whereas  cocoa  requires  very  careful  preparation. 

The  end  of  our  long  and  fatiguing  ascent  was  heralded 
here,  as  at  Basile,  by  the  appearance  of  elephant 
grass. 

The  history  of  Musola  is  most  interesting.  Before 
the  erection  of  a  sanatorium  at  Basile,  a  commission 
was  intrusted  with  the  task  of  selecting  a  suitable  spot 
for  the  purpose  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Bay  of 
San  Carlos.  The  choice  fell  upon  Musola,  a  village 
situated  about  1600  feet  above  the  sea,  on  the  lower 
slopes  of  the  Moka  Mountains.  Two  stately  buildings 
were  erected  at  enormous  expense,  for  they  were  con- 
structed entirely  of  iron,  and  all  the  materials  had  to 
be  brought  from  Europe. 

If  the  architect  had  taken  the  trouble  to  make  a 
road  to  the  sanatorium  in  order  to  make  it  more 
accessible  from  the  shore,  the  undertaking  would  not 
have  proved  such  an  utter  failure.  In  order  to  reach 
it  the  patients  had  to  walk  seven  miles  up  a  rough 
footpath,  and  the  result,  which  might  have  been 
anticipated,  was  that  when  anyone  fell  ill  he  did  not 


254      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

care  to  further  endanger  his  health  by  betaking  himself 
to  the  sanatorium. 

So  the  undertaking  failed  utterly,  and  in  1896  the 
buildings  were  handed  over  to  the  missionaries.  It  was 
no  light  task  to  reach  them,  for  they  lay  buried  in  an 
impenetrable  wilderness  of  bushes  and  elephant  grass. 
After  taking  possession  of  one  building,  the  missionaries 
laboured  four  days  longer  before  they  discovered  the 
second,  although  there  was  but  fifty  yards  between 
them  !  This  sounds  so  improbable  that  one  is  almost 
inclined  to  regard  it  as  a  malicious  invention,  but 
the  account  is  quite  correct,  being  taken  from  Bishop 
Coil's  own  description.  I  have  myself  spent  one  or 
two  days  in  one  of  these  houses ;  it  is  built  on  piles, 
and  comprises  four  large  rooms,  each  of  which  is  sixteen 
feet  square.  Surrounding  the  house  is  a  wide  verandah, 
opening  out  on  one  side  into  a  large  hall,  so  spacious 
that  it  could  easily  be  converted  into  two  rooms  of  the 
same  size  as  the  others.  Everything  is  made  of  iron 
excepting  the  doors,  windows,  and  flooring,  and  the 
walls  are  composed  of  plates  of  sheet -iron.  At  present 
this  magnificent  building,  of  which  the  painting  alone 
is  said  to  have  cost  four  thousand  pesetas,  is  inhabited 
by  a  Spanish  non-commissioned  officer  and  two  black 
soldiers.  The  second  house,  which  is  still  more  roomy, 
serves  as  a  church  for  the  mission,  and  the  Fathers 
have  built  themselves  an  adjoining  stone  house. 

The  situation  is  well  adapted  for  a  sanatorium ;  the 
air  is  healthy,  and  the  view,  which  includes  the  Bay  of 
San  Carlos  and  the  Peak,  is  unrivalled  in  its  magnificence. 

For  two  successive  days  the  weather  favoured  me, 
and  I  was  able  to  explore  the  famous  Moka  prairies. 
The  road,  which  is  quite  passible  for  pedestrians,  passes 
through  an  abandoned  village  site,  not  far  from  the 


3 
O" 


D. 

3 


FERNANDO  PO  265 

Bubi  settlement  of  Rilako,  and  then  turns  towards  the 
South.  After  crossing  a  small  stream,  I  climbed  up 
the  steep  mountain  slope.  The  forest  bears  little  resem- 
blance to  the  one  above  Basile,  the  trees  being  smaller 
and  more  branching,  and  the  undergrowth  chiefly 
composed  of  ferns  ;  there  are  numerous  lianas,  and 
the  most  noticeable  epiphyte  is  a  climbing  plant  of 
the  Culcasia  family.  The  whole  vegetation  was  so 
peculiar  that  I  was  at  first  incUned  to  regard  it  as  a 
secondary  forest,  until  I  remembered  having  seen 
something  very  similar  on  the  Niragongo  volcano 
near  Lake  Kiwu.  In  both  cases  the  soil  was  probably 
of  recent  volcanic  origin. 

The  forest  became  more  and  more  open  as  I  ascended ; 
the  tree-ferns  were  more  and  more  numerous,  and  after 
passing  a  few  shrubs  of  Mimulopsis  Violacea  in  full 
flower  (vide  coloured  illus.),  I  was  soon  in  the  prairie. 
I  traversed  a  narrow  belt  of  tall  elephant  grass,  and 
then,  at  an  elevation  of  3600  feet,  there  came  into  view 
the  most  beautiful  landscape  that  I  have  ever  seen. 
(Illus.  205,  206.)  The  ground  rose  in  a  gentle  undulation 
and  then  sank  into  a  wide,  flat  basin  in  the  middle  of 
which  lay  Moka.  Here  and  there  were  picturesque 
little  ravines  through  which  trickled  rivulets  of  clear 
water,  and  mounds  with  small  craters  at  the  summit. 
(Elus.  207.) 

The  ground  is  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
grass,  in  which  are  scattered  numerous  trees  which 
enUven  the  scenery  and  form  a  pleasant  change. 

As  I  wandered  along  the  path,  and  trod  the  elastic 
turf  in  the  bright  sunshine,  the  air  was  so  soft  and 
fresh  that  I  felt  in  the  mood  for  singing,  and  I  could 
scarcely  reaUse  that  the  dismal  forest  with  its  difficult 
paths,  and  the   coast  with  its  enervating  hot-house 


256      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

atmosphere  were  so  close  at  hand.  So  great  is  the 
charm  of  Moka  that  it  influenced  even  my  black 
companions.  My  boy  from  the  prairies  of  the  North- 
West  Cameroons  was  quite  excited ;  he  pointed  to 
the  trees  which  also  grew  round  his  home,  and  admitted 
that  they  were  almost  more  beautiful  than  those  of 
his  "  own  country,"  the  highest  compliment  that  he 
could  pay. 

The  inhabitants  of  Moka  lead  a  quiet  and  secluded 
existence ;  few  people  know  of  its  beauties  or  utiUse 
its  advantages.  To  say  that  there  are  three  hundred 
Bubis  in  the  whole  prairie  region  occupying  about 
ninety  square  miles,  is  a  high  estimate.  In  addition 
there  is  a  small  mission  settlement,  a  Government 
official,  and  a  factory  belonging  to  the  Compania 
transatlantica,  which  owns  herds  of  cattle,  sheep,  and 
pigs  that  gambol  in  a  semi-wild  state  on  the  beautiful 
pasture  lands.  And  yet  the  European  inhabitants  of 
San  Carlos  Uve  on  tinned  meat  and  ridiculously  dear 
chickens  ! 

The  traveller  naturally  asks  himself  what  can  be 
the  origin  of  this  prairie  land,  differing  as  it  does  from 
the  pastures  of  other  African  mountains.  The  Peak 
and  the  Cordilleras  are  covered  with  trees  at  a  corres- 
ponding altitude,  and  even  higher.  It  cannot  therefore 
be  due  to  climatic  conditions,  but  it  may  possibly  be 
explained  by  the  fact  that  the  soil  is  composed  largely  of 
ashes  of  volcanic  origin.  That  the  mountain  land  of 
Moka  is  of  comparatively  recent  date  is  proved  by  the 
fact  that  on  its  slopes  are  evidences  of  active  volcanic 
action  in  the  form  of  springs  impregnated  with  carbonic 
acid  gas.  One  of  these  springs  may  be  seen  at  Loita, 
not  far  from  Musola,  and  another,  which  I  myself 
investigated,  at  a  place  called  Mioko,  at  the  foot  of  a 


FERNANDO  PO  267 

ravine  east  of  the  Moka  path.  The  water  issues  from 
several  little  shallow  basins,  in  which  it  bubbles 
vigorously  as  if  it  were  boiling  in  a  cauldron.  It  is 
very  refreshing  and  has  a  pleasant  flavour  ;  its  tempera- 
ture is  59°  F.  There  is  a  similar  spring  at  Balachalacha, 
between  Moka  and  Concepcion,  where  the  missionaries 
found  the  skeletons  of  birds  and  small  mammaUa  that 
had  come  to  drink  and  had  been  suffocated  by  the 
carbonic  acid  gas.  The  Loita  water  is  used  for  drinking 
purposes  by  the  Musola  missionaries ;  it  has  been 
analysed,  and  is  said  to  resemble  Vichy  water. 

I  would  gladly  have  paid  a  longer  visit  to  the  Moka 
prairies,  but  my  time  was  limited,  and  after  descending 
to  San  Carlos,  I  took  the  first  opportunity  of  returning 
to  Santa  Isabella,  whence  Herr  KruU  and  I  made  the 
ascent  of  the  Peak  as  already  described. 

Anyone  who  visits  Fernando  Po  cannot  fail  to  be 
struck  by  the  wealth  and  potentialities  afforded  by  the 
unusually  favom*able  natural  conditions  of  this  island. 
A  glance  at  its  literature  reveals  ever  the  same  thought 
expressed  in  all  ages  and  in  various  languages,  by 
English  sea-captains,  Spanish  missionaries,  and  German 
explorers  alike  :  what  a  profusion  of  beauty  and  wealth  ! 
What  prosperity  must  lie  in  store  for  this  island ! 

Let  us  investigate  for  a  moment  the  natural  conditions 
of  Fernando  Po,  and  let  us  see  what  are  the  factors 
that  come  into  play,  and  how  they  have  been  utilised. 
Its  area  is  about  twelve  hundred  square  miles,  that  is 
to  say,  it  is  about  four-fifths  of  the  size  of  Samoa  and 
more  than  twice  as  large  as  the  famous  cocoa  island 
St  Thomas.  Its  volcanic  soil  is  extremely  fertile, 
and  the  climate  is  typically  tropical,  corresponding 
on  the  whole  to  that  of  the  mainland  opposite,  although 
the  average  rainfall  of  100  inches  is  not  so  excessive 


258       FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

as  that,  for  example,  of  Debundsha.  The  dry  season, 
during  which,  however,  some  rain  falls,  includes  the 
months  of  December,  January,  and  February. 

Malaria  is  not  unknown,  but  it  is  not  very  prevalent, 
whilst  dysentery  is  almost  non-existent  owing  to  the 
excellent  water  supply.  The  importance  of  a  good 
water  supply  can  be  estimated  only  by  those  who 
know  by  experience  how  unfortunately  most  of  the 
mainland  towns  are  situated  in  this  respect. 

Cases  of  sleeping-sickness  have  occurred  among  the 
coloured  labourers  on  the  plantations,  and  I  have 
personally  verified  the  existence  of  glossince ;  it  is, 
however,  probable  that  these  cases  were  due  to  accidental 
infection,  which  could  have  been  avoided  by  taking 
adequate  precautions.  Tsetse  flies  seem  to  be  absent, 
at  any  rate  a  fine  herd  of  cattle  has  flourished  for  many 
years  on  the  Vivour  plantation  near  San  Carlos. 

If  at  some  future  date  the  plantations  are  properly 
exploited,  it  will  be  quite  possible  for  Europeans  as 
well  as  coloured  labourers  to  live  above  the  level  of 
the  sultry  and  oppressive  coast  climate,  as  is  the  case 
in  St  Thomas. 

The  forest,  which  covers  the  whole  island  excepting 
where  it  has  been  cleared  by  human  agency,  and  at  the 
top  of  the  mountains,  is  divisible  according  to  its 
altitude  into  various  zones  which  will  be  alluded  to 
in  the  present  instance  only  in  so  far  as  they  bear  on 
the  question  of  cultivation.  The  lower  zone  in  the 
moist,  warm  regions  of  the  coast  may  be  briefly  desig- 
nated as  the  cocoa  zone,  its  upper  Hmit  being  at  an 
altitude  of  1300  feet.  The  upper  forest  zone  extends 
above  this  level  for  another  1300  feet,  and  is  eminently 
adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  the  oil  palm. 

The  cocoa  zone  is  the  one  that  interests  us  principally. 


208.  Mimulopsis  violacea  in  the  grass-laud  of  Moka,  tree  terns  in 
the  bad<ground. 


209.   Tree  ferns  and  parasites  in  the  grass-land  of  Moka. 


FERNANDO  PO  259 

since  it  is  here  alone  that  plantations  so  far  exist. 
Unfortunately  there  exists  no  map  of  Fernando  Po 
which  gives  the  area  of  country  up  to  an  altitude  of 
1300  feet,  so  that  it  is  hard  to  give  an  accurate  estimate 
of  the  ground  available  for  cocoa  plantations.  I  am, 
however,  of  opinion  that  280  square  miles  is  not  too 
high  a  computation,  exclusive  of  the  south  coast. 

Is  this  land  really  adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  cocoa  ? 
In  reply  to  this  question  I  can  only  state  that  the 
plantations  at  San  Carlos  are  as  prosperous  as  it  is 
possible  to  imagine ;  when  I  saw  them  the  branches 
were  yellow  with  fruit,  and  the  trees  seemed  in  splendid 
condition.  The  planters  reckon  to  obtain  nearly  100,000 
pounds  of  fruit  per  square  mile,  at  any  rate  from 
strong  twelve  to  fifteen  year  old  trees  in  a  good  year. 

Obviously,  therefore,  Fernando  Po  possesses  all  the 
necessary  qualifications  for  a  cocoa  island  of  the  first 
rank,  and  considering  its  size,  it  ought  to  far  surpass 
the  Uttle  island  of  St  Thomas.  But  when  we  ask 
what  has  been  achieved,  we  are  told  :  very  little  indeed. 
The  island  has  never  produced  more  than  six  miUion 
pounds  in  the  year,  whereas  in  the  year  1909  the  island 
of  St  Thomas  exported  over  sixty  million  pounds. 
Coffee  is  scarcely  to  be  reckoned  as  an  export,  and 
the  same  may  be  said  of  palm  oil,  although  formerly 
a  certain  amount  of  the  latter  was  produced. 

We  did  not  come  across  many  of  the  Bubis,  and  I 
am  unable  to  supply  any  new  facts  concerning  them. 
I  will,  however,  give  a  short  account  of  them,  derived 
from  the  books  at  my  disposal. 

Nothing  positive  is  known  regarding  the  origin  of 
the  Bubis  and  their  connection  with  the  tribes  of  the 
mainland.  The  older  authorities  state  that  there  is 
no  tradition  of  their  having  invaded  the  island,  but 


260      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

in  the  reports  of  the  Spanish  mission,  on  the  other 
hand,  there  is  an  account  of  their  having  landed  in 
canoes  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Concepcion.  The  men 
are  brown-skinned,  of  medium  height,  and  possess 
powerfully  developed  muscles.  Their  lower  extremities 
are  comparatively  short,  but  unusually  strong.  Their 
features  are  not  of  a  pronounced  negro  type,  and  most 
of  them  wear  thick  beards.  Some  of  the  women's 
faces  are  attractive,  with  a  gentle  expression. 

Their  long  seclusion  in  their  island  home,  together 
with  an  intimate  contact  with  Nature,  have  developed 
among  the  Bubis  certain  characteristics  which  are  in 
many  respects  of  a  high  moral  order.  A  strong  love 
for  their  country,  loyal  public  spirit  at  all  events  in 
their  villages,  independence  and  a  constant  adherence 
to  their  ancient  manners  and  customs  are  in  marked 
contrast  to  the  characteristics  of  many  of  the  trading 
tribes  of  the  mainland.  These  qualities  explain  how 
the  Bubis  have  been  able  to  resist  the  influence 
of  European  civilisation.  Their  requirements  are 
extraordinarily  few.  In  Baumann's  time  they  wore 
practically  no  clothes,  and  in  remote  villages  this  is 
the  case  even  at  the  present  time.  On  the  other  hand 
they  many  of  them  wear  plaited  hats  of  an  immense 
size  that  serve  the  purpose  of  umbrellas.  Their  houses 
are  very  simple,  and  their  furniture  is  of  the  most 
primitive  description.  They  possess  no  iron  implements 
other  than  those  introduced  by  Europeans. 

Tattooing  is  unknown  among  the  Bubis,  but  both 
men  and  women  display  peculiar  scars,  which  they 
regard  as  adornments,  wide  incisions  across  their 
cheeks  from  ear  to  nose.  The  women  wear  wide  bands 
round  their  upper  arms,  also  strings  of  pierced  shell 
fragments. 


^^^■H 

Li           ^ 

^^^^^Hfefl 

^^^^HKBfc 

^ 

<to 

ikH..^ 

M^HIH 

210  and  211.    Bubi  of  San  Carlos. 


212.    Annobon  from  the  north. 


213.  iVillage  of  Pale  with  mission. 


.Vim 


214.   Village  of  Pale. 


FERNANDO  PO  261 

We  were  particularly  struck  by  these  incisions  and 
bracelets  (illus.  210,  211,)  never  having  seen  anything 
like  them  in  all  our  travels.  In  spite  of  their  low 
order  of  civilisation,  they  are  industrious  husbandmen ; 
their  koko  {Colocasia)  fields  are  carefully  tilled  and 
fenced  in.  They  also  cultivate  excellent  yams  {Dios- 
corea)  and  bananas ;  cassada  (manioc)  is  unknown  to 
them  as  it  was  to  the  negroes  of  the  mainland  up  to 
the  discovery  of  America. 

Their  morals  are  of  a  very  high  order.  Allen  writes 
about  them  in  1841  as  follows  : — "  It  is  impossible  to 
speak  too  highly  of  the  character  of  these  peculiar 
people.  They  are  generous  and  hospitable  towards 
strangers,  in  their  own  simple  fashion  ;  they  are  kindly 
disposed  to  one  another  in  their  everyday  life,  and 
are  always  willing  to  assist  one  another  both  in  sickness 
and  in  health.  They  are  brave,  but  show  a  conciliatory 
spirit,  and  an  unwillingness  to  shed  blood,  even  that  of 
their  enemies.  They  are  not  cruel  in  battle,  and  their 
reUgious  ceremonies  are  not  stained  with  human  blood. 
Murder  is  unknown  among  them,  and  one  of  their 
chiefs  earned  for  himself  the  nickname  of  '  the 
executioner '  because  he  cut  down  one  of  his  sub- 
jects whom  he  caught  in  the  act  of  stealing  from 
the  boat  belonging  to  a  man-of-war.  This  shows,  too, 
how  averse  they  are  to  theft."  Bigamy  is,  however, 
allowed. 

From  this  account,  which  is  confirmed  by  Baumann, 
it  is  evident  that  the  Bubis  are  a  congenial  people, 
whose  so-called  aversion  towards  European  culture  is 
more  pleasing  than  the  veneer  of  civilisation  assumed 
by  many  another  negro  tribe.  Of  recent  years  they 
have  certainly  discarded  some  of  their  exclusiveness, 
whilst  retaining  a  strong  sense  of  independence  which 


262        FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

renders  them  unwilling  to  work  on  the  plantations 
in  the  service  of  Europeans. 

This  is  regrettable  since  it  is  the  dearth  of  labourers 
that  prevents  Fernando  Po  from  making  the  most 
of  its  natural  resources.  It  is  very  difficult  to  induce 
labourers  from  the  mainland  to  undertake  work  in 
Fernando  Po,  and  for  this  state  of  affairs  Europeans 
have  themselves  chiefly  to  blame.  Croo-boys  have 
repeatedly  been  engaged  on  the  Liberian  coast  to  work 
in  Lagos  or  the  Cameroons,  and  have  then  been  con- 
veyed to  Fernando  Po.  WTien  they  have  finished 
their  work  they  have  been  paid  in  cheap  wares  instead 
of  in  money,  so  that  it  is  not  surprising  if  they  decline 
to  be  entrapped  a  second  time.  It  is  even  more  difficult 
to  secure  the  services  of  the  natives  in  other  parts  of 
the  mainland,  for  example  in  Spanish  Guinea,  so  that 
the  labour  question,  always  a  difficult  problem  in 
Africa,  is  disastrous  to  the  prosperity  of  Fernando  Po. 

Nevertheless,  the  land  is  so  fertile  that  we  must  not 
give  up  all  hopes  of  an  improvement  in  the  situation. 
At  the  same  time  the  climatic  conditions  are  most 
favourable  for  tropical  plantations  as  well  as  being 
comparatively  healthy,  the  prairies  of  Moka  are  admir- 
ably adapted  for  the  rearing  of  cattle  and  for  the  culti- 
vation of  European  vegetables,  the  harbours  are 
excellent,  in  fact  there  are  present  all  the  conditions 
necessary  for  assuring  a  brilUant  future  to  this  beautiful 
country. 

I  will  conclude  mth  the  words  of  the  explorer 
Baumann,  and  express  the  hope  that  this  pearl  of  the 
Gulf  of  Guinea,  aptly  named  Formosa  by  its  discoverer, 
may  at  length  awake  from  its  thousand  years'  slumber, 
and  enjoy  the  prosperity  it  deserves. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

ANNOBON 

On  the  2nd  of  September  Schultze  and  I  took  ship 
from  Santa  Isabella  and  landed  at  Annobon,  the 
smallest  and  most  remote  of  the  four  Guinea  Islands. 
It  was  so-called  (the  good  year,  i.e.  the  new  year) 
because  it  was  discovered  on  New  Year's  Day  1471 
by  loao  de  Santarem,  a  Portuguese  seaman,  just  as 
Fernando  Po  was  discovered  by  the  Portuguese  Captain 
Femao  do  Poo. 

The  Spanish  Government  steamer  "  Annobon  "  visits 
the  island  every  alternate  month,  forming  the  only 
connecting  link  with  the  outer  world ;  I  cannot  say, 
however,  that  she  inspires  one  with  any  great  confidence. 
She  is  old,  small  and  dirty,  and  should  long  ago  have 
earned  a  place  on  the  scrap-heap.  The  provisions  were 
plentiful  and  good,  though  better  adapted  to  Spanish 
than  German  palates.  Excepting  for  the  dinner  table, 
the  whole  of  this  restricted  and  inconvenient  Uttle 
vessel  was  full  of  dirt,  so  that  our  voyage  was  not 
an  unmixed  blessing.    And  so  very,  very  slow  ! 

The  first  day  we  steamed  from  the  capital  to  San 
Carlos,  in  order  to  take  up  a  few  passengers.  Towards 
nightfall  we  set  off  again,  and  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
second  day  we  passed  Prince's  Isle.  On  the  third  day 
we  passed  St  Thomas  and  enjoyed  "  one  of  the  most 
picturesque  coast  views  in  the  world."  The  peaks 
were  indeed  thickly   wrapped  in  clouds   during  our 

263 


264      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

passage,  but  we  were  filled  with  astonishment  at  the 
sight  of  the  ever-varying  and  rare  mountain  shapes, 
precipitous  cones,  and  apparently  inaccessible  needles 
of  rock,  such  as  are  seldom  found  in  volcanic  regions. 

On  the  morning  of  the  5th  of  September  Annobon 
at  length  rose  out  of  the  sea  Uke  some  proud  island 
citadel.  We  were  anxiously  wondering  whether  our 
hopes  and  expectations  would  be  realised.  We  swept 
the  island  eagerly  with  our  telescopes,  which  revealed 
a  Uttle  rocky  island,  with  steep  cliffs  and  rugged 
precipices,  behind  which  rise  wooded  mountains,  whose 
highest  peaks  are  concealed  by  a  mass  of  low-lying 
clouds.  In  the  foreground  is  the  Pico  do  Fogo,  a  land- 
mark of  Annobon  owing  to  its  curious  truncated  cone 
shape.    (lUus.  212.) 

The  great,  white  Mission  building  is  visible  from  a 
considerable  distance.  On  a  closer  acquaintance  the 
shore  displays  a  stretch  of  sand  inclosed  by  a  hedge 
of  palm  trees,  and  the  grey  houses  of  Pale.  (lUus. 
213-216.)  As  we  approach  we  observe  how  parched 
and  barren  is  the  flat  country  facing  north,  as  well  as 
the  lower  mountain  slopes.  We  have  fled  from  the 
rainy  season  in  Fernando  Po,  and  behold  here  it  is 
midsummer. 

At  last  we  are  at  anchor  some  way  from  the  shore, 
and  making  as  much  fuss  as  though  we  were  a  6000-ton 
vessel  at  the  very  least.  And  yet  the  beautiful  blue- 
green  water  is  so  clear  that  every  pebble,  every  shell 
can  be  distinguished  at  the  bottom. 

The  Delegado,  a  bihous-looking  Spanish  non-com- 
missioned officer,  comes  on  board,  accompanied  by 
the  genial  and  rotund  Pater  Ferrando,  the  Superior 
of  the  Mission,  whilst  the  laughing  and  screaming 
natives  press  round  the  steamer  in  their  little  canoes. 


ANNOBON  265 

We  land  in  the  large  Mission  boat,  and  set  foot  in 
Annobon  with  our  expectations  already  considerably 
damped. 

We  soon  made  up  our  minds  not  to  remain  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  island,  for  the  dry  season  was  evidently 
at  its  height,  and  the  dust  and  drought  were  intolerable. 
So  we  decided  to  make  the  famous  Crater  Lake  our 
headquarters,  900  feet  above  the  sea  level,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Pico  do  Fogo.  With  the  help  of  the  Delegado 
we  soon  secured  the  services  of  a  number  of  natives, 
chiefly  women,  and  the  very  same  afternoon  all  our 
baggage  was  carried  up.  We  climbed  the  winding 
path,  at  first  amid  oil  palms,  inclosed  by  low  lava  walls, 
then  through  small  cassada  fields  hedged  in  by  Jatropha 
Cur  cos  Lin.,  then  through  barren  prairies  plentifully 
sprinkled  with  fragments  of  lava,  and  finally  through  a 
dry,  sparse  wood  of  oil-palms  of  which  the  undergrowth 
is  composed  of  all  kinds  of  bushes,  including  wild  oranges, 
laden  with  fruit.  At  last  the  cHmber's  view  embraces 
the  still,  crater  lake,  a  perfect  jewel  of  picturesque 
beauty.  (lUus.  217.)  We  pitched  om*  tents  on  its 
northern  shore,  beneath  the  oil  palms,  not  far  from 
the  point  where,  during  the  rainy  season,  the  lake 
discharges  its  surplus  water  over  the  edge  of  the  crater. 

The  North  of  the  island  is  formed  by  the  volcano 
whose  crater  suppKes  the  bed  of  the  lake.  Towards 
the  South  the  crater  wall  is  highest  and  best  preserved ; 
it  falls  in  terraces  of  about  eight  hundred  feet,  and, 
though  fairly  steep,  it  is  covered  with  trees.    (Illus.  218.) 

East  and  west  the  side  of  the  crater  is  lower,  until 
on  the  North  it  forms  merely  a  broad,  rounded  wall, 
where  at  its  lowest  point  the  lake  pours  away  its  super- 
fluous water  during  the  rainy  season.  Towards  the 
North-East  an  independent  rock  rises  from  the  edge  of 


266      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

the  crater  :  the  Pico  do  Fogo  (illus.  219)  an  irregularly 
three-sided,  truncated  cone,  composed  of  a  light  grey 
stone,  which  is  not  to  my  knowledge  found  elsewhere 
in  the  island,  and  is  quite  different  to  the  regularly 
stratified  material  thrown  up  by  the  volcano,  of  which 
the  greater  part  of  the  island  is  composed. 

On  the  right  side  of  illustration  212  another  small 
island  is  missing,  which  is  separated  from  the  main 
island  by  a  deep  channel.  Seen  from  the  North,  it 
presents  a  flat,  rounded  appearance,  and  has  conse- 
quently been  named  Tortuga  (tortoise).  This  island 
was  originally  formed  by  the  peak  of  a  volcano,  and 
on  its  South  the  stratified  inner  wall  of  the  crater  can 
clearly  be  seen,  the  strata  being  undermined  to  an 
unusual  extent  by  the  weather.  (Illus.  221.)  The 
most  surprising  thing  about  it  is  that,  as  far  as  we 
know,  the  stone  of  which  it  is  composed  is  altogether 
wanting  on  the  main  island,  being  volcanic  material 
of  a  deep  red  colour,  which  recalls  a  very  dark 
laterit. 

The  lake  was  just  now  at  its  lowest  level,  and  its 
waters  troubled.  The  floor  of  the  crater  round  the 
lake  and  its  lower  slopes  were  wooded  with  oil  palms. 
Amongst  them  grew  numerous  wild  orange  trees,  bearing 
a  rich  display  of  golden  fruit,  which  was  not,  however, 
so  pleasant  to  eat  as  it  appeared.  The  flesh  was  juicy, 
but  exceedingly  bitter,  and  nothing  but  the  terrible 
thirst  induced  by  the  long  and  fatiguing  cHmb  up  the 
barren  slopes  would  have  induced  us  to  welcome  these 
fruits  as  a  refreshment. 

Above  the  belt  of  oil  palms  is  a  wood,  composed 
principally  of  two  trees  :  a  beautiful,  evergreen  oil 
tree  {Olea  Welwitschii)  whose  large,  dark  willow-Hke 
leaves  were  in  marked  contrast  to  the  leafless  stems  of 


215.   House  of  the  government  officials  in  Pale. 


216.   Mission:  Pico  do  Fogo  in  bad<ground. 


ANNOBON  267 

a  deciduous  Anacardacia  clothed  only  with  bearded 
lichen ;  the  first  leaf  buds  appear  in  October  before 
the  foliage.  This  mingling  of  evergreen  and  deciduous 
trees  lends  a  pecuHar  character  to  the  forest,  but  the 
blossom  of  both  these  trees  is  scanty.  There  are 
few  bushes  in  the  underwood ;  some  scattered  ferns 
grow  between  the  boulders,  mostly  as  epiphytes,  but 
there  is  scarcely  any  herbaceous  undergrowth.  During 
the  rainy  season  everything  probably  has  a  fresher 
appearance,  but  I  doubt  whether  even  then  the  collector 
would  find  much  to  reward  his  pains.  Mine  was 
certainly  but  a  sorry  share. 

The  fauna  was  even  more  scanty.  The  only  mam- 
malia that  we  encountered  were  wild,  black  hogs,  rats, 
and  vampire  bats,  and  the  only  birds  were  a  pretty, 
brick-red  fly-catcher,  a  grey-green  hooded  bird 
(Zostewps),  and  a  small  owl ;  there  were,  of  course,  no 
water  birds.  The  doves  and  crested  guinea  fowls 
were  probably  derived  from  domesticated  ancestors. 
Schultze,  to  his  great  regret,  found  no  butterflies. 

I  have  not  yet  thoroughly  studied  my  botanical 
specimens,  but  I  can  say  at  any  rate  that  plant  life 
is  but  scantily  represented  on  the  island  of  Annobon, 
and  that  what  there  is  of  it  is  composed  of  the  most 
heterogenous  elements  of  African  vegetation,  mingled 
together  in  the  most  surprising  manner.  This  may 
readily  be  explained  on  the  supposition  that  the  flora 
is  entirely  exogenous,  having  been  brought  over  from 
the  mainland  by  means  of  ships,  currents  of  air,  or 
birds.  Endemic  varieties  are  either  entirely  absent, 
or  else  they  are  nearly  related  to  the  species  found 
on  the  mainland  and  in  St  Thomas.  In  this  respect, 
therefore,  Annobon  differs  markedly  from  Saint  Helena, 
which  possessed  a  very  characteristic  flora  of  its  own, 


268      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

at  all  events  until  it  was  destroyed,  principally  by  the 
goats. 

As  there  was  so  little  botanising  to  be  done  we  had 
all  the  more  time  to  devote  to  a  study  of  the  structure 
of  the  island,  and  Schultze  was  able  to  make  numerous 
measurements,  and  to  survey  the  roads  in  every  direc- 
tion with  a  view  to  the  construction  of  the  first  map  ever 
projected  of  Annobon.  All  our  expeditions  were  con- 
ducted under  the  greatest  difficulties.  Considering 
the  small  size  of  the  island,  which  is  only  four  and  a 
half  miles  long  and  one  and  a  half  miles  wide,  we  had 
supposed  that  the  task  of  exploring  it  in  every  direction 
would  be  an  easy  one.  We  were  greatly  mistaken.  The 
precipitous  slopes  loaded  with  boulders  and  rubble 
necessitated  the  most  laborious  climbing,  and  an 
excursion,  for  example,  to  the  village  of  Santa  Cruz 
on  the  west  coast,  which  was  not  more  than  two  and  a 
half  miles  as  the  crow  flies  from  our  camp  beside  the 
Crater  Lake,  took  us  a  whole  day.  Even  a  walk  round 
the  lake  is  not  perfectly  simple,  although  there  is  a 
native  footpath.  At  intervals,  as  for  example  at  the 
foot  of  the  Pico  do  Fogo,  the  pedestrian  encounters 
a  chaos  of  rubble,  which  must  be  laboriously  scrambled 
through.  A  spot  on  the  eastern  shore  awakens  sad 
memories,  for  it  was  the  camping  ground  of  the  explorer 
Boyd  Alexander,  who  was  murdered  later  in  Wadai. 

The  ascent  of  the  Pico  do  Fogo  was  particularly 
fatiguing  and  unpleasant.  The  most  accessible  side 
is  from  the  edge  of  the  crater  to  the  East  of  the  lake, 
i.e.  behind  the  right  face  of  the  mountain  (illus.  217) ; 
and  for  people  who  are  not  absolutely  devoid  of  giddiness 
this  is  in  fact  the  only  possible  route.  Between  the 
boulders  and  rubble  the  slope  is  covered  only  with 
grass  and  a  few  gnarled  and  scattered  bushes.    The 


ANNOBON  269 

weather  has  broken  up  the  stone  into  loose  blocks,  the 
grass  clumps  afford  no  safe  hold,  and  whilst  climbing 
one  has  an  ever-present  and  most  disagreeable  feeling 
of  insecurity.  On  the  way  down  I  became  so  dizzy 
that  but  for  the  assistance  of  my  trusty  Ekomeno  I 
should  scarcely  have  reached  home  in  safety. 

This  ascent  had  important  results,  since  from  the 
summit  of  the  little  pyramid  we  enjoyed  a  complete 
panorama,  and  Schultze  was  able  to  make  various 
measurements. 

In  books  the  height  of  the  Pico  do  Fogo  is  usually 
given  as  3280  feet.  This  however  is  not  correct,  for 
Schultze  measured  it  and  found  it  to  be  only  1475 
feet  above  the  sea  level,  and  590  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  Crater  Lake. 

From  the  summit  of  the  Pico  do  Fogo  we  saw  behind 
the  high  southern  edge  of  the  crater  a  wooded  range 
of  mountains  which  seemed  to  be  the  loftiest  in  the 
island.  A  native  finally  consented  to  guide  us  thither  ; 
at  first  he  was  not  very  willing,  alleging  that  it  would 
be  very  cold  up  there. 

We  made  our  way  along  the  western  edge  of  the  crater, 
and  soon  reached  the  flat  depression  between  the 
Quioveo  and  the  North  Crater.  On  the  other  side  of 
this  saddle-shaped  depression  is  the  valley  of  the  Rio 
San  Juan,  which  flows  in  an  easterly  direction.  Up 
here,  in  a  region  which  is  often  enveloped  in  mist  and 
rain  when  the  sun  is  shining  lower  down,  the  industrious 
inhabitants  of  Pale,  that  is  to  say  the  women,  cultivate 
bananas.  Oil  palms,  too,  are  more  luxuriant  here 
than  on  the  plain,  or  in  the  basin  of  the  Crater  Lake. 
Cocoa  plantations  have  been  attempted,  but  as  might 
have  been  anticipated,  without  success.  Cocoa  requires 
a  much  warmer  and  more  equable  climate,  combined 


270      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

with  plenty  of  moisture  in  the  form  of  copious  showers, 
but  not  direct  contact  with  the  clouds. 

At  a  level  of  about  1600  feet  begins  the  fog  region 
of  Annobon.  Every  day  dense  masses  of  cloud  are 
driven  up  from  the  sea  by  the  prevailing  south- 
westerly winds,  and  congregate  round  the  highest 
peaks  ;  Santa  Mina,  Quioveo,  and  the  southern  edge 
of  the  North  Crater.  The  temperature  is  moderate 
and  the  atmosphere  is  charged  with  moisture,  thus 
favouring  the  growth  of  all  tree  ferns,  mosses,  lichens, 
hymenophylls,  and  some  varieties  of  begonia. 

We  proceeded  through  this  wooded  foggy  region 
along  a  precipitous  path  to  the  summit,  which  is 
set  like  an  old  ruined  castle  upon  the  broader  ridge. 
Here  the  old,  gnarled,  weather-beaten  trees  are  so 
overgrown  with  epiphytes  that  they  present  a  distorted 
appearance.  (lUus.  220.)  I  have  never  seen  any 
epiphytes  so  well  developed  as  on  the  summits  of 
Quioveo  and  Santa  Mina. 

After  having  several  times  made  the  circuit  of  the 
crater  from  our  camp  beside  the  lake,  having  ascended 
the  Fogo  once,  and  the  Quioveo  several  times,  and 
after  making  an  excursion  to  the  village  of  Santa 
Cruz,  we  removed  our  camp  to  the  shelter  of  a  hedge 
of  koko  palms  on  the  shore,  not  far  from  the  Mission. 
We  had  hoped  that  after  spending  a  fortnight  on  the 
island  we  should  be  picked  up  by  the  Spanish  steamer 
which  goes  from  Fernando  Po  to  Prince's  Isle  on  the 
18th  of  September.  The  Deputy  Governor,  Julio 
Pantoga,  had  not  been  able  to  make  any  definite  promise, 
but  we  had  begged  Herr  KruU  to  lay  our  request  before 
the  Governor  on  his  return  from  Spanish  Guinea,  and 
we  were  counting  on  his  acceding  to  our  wish.  The 
21st  of  September  passed,  however,  with  no  sign  of  a 


218.   Crater  lake  with  the  high  southern  edge  of  the  crater. 


219.   Pico  do  Fogo  on  the  Crater  lake. 


220.   Tree  with  parasites  on  the  summit  of  Quioveo. 


221.    Island  of  Tortuga,  stratified  and  strongly  eroded  crater-edge. 


ANNOBON  271 

steamer's  smoke  on  the  horizon.    So  we  had  to  possess 
our  souls  in  patience  for  another  fortnight. 

At  first  we  were  bitterly  disappointed,  but  later  on 
we  realised  that  it  was  really  for  the  best,  as  otherwise 
our  investigations  would  have  been  incomplete,  and 
we  should  probably  have  missed  the  most  beautiful 
part  of  the  island.  We  turned  our  steps  towards  the 
South  and  South-East,  in  the  direction  of  Santa 
Mina. 

We  reached  our  destination  easily  and  comfortably 
in  the  little  native  canoes,  whereas,  if  we  had  gone 
by  land,  it  would  have  been  a  most  fatiguing  expedition. 
These  canoes  are  tiny  in  comparison  with  the  huge 
hollowed  trees  employed  on  the  Congo  and  its  tributaries, 
for  the  forest  of  Annobon  comprises  comparatively 
small  trees,  even  the  Bonibax  being  a  dwarf  compared 
with  its  immense  representative  in  the  Cameroons  or 
in  Fernando  Po.  The  Annobon  natives  are,  however, 
so  skilful  in  the  manipulation  of  their  small  craft  that 
they  inspire  complete  confidence.  We  skimmed  over 
the  clear,  deep  water  beside  the  precipitous  walls  of  a 
picturesque  grotto  to  which  adhered  the  nests  of  lively, 
black  sea-swallows,  far  above  human  reach.   (lUus.  229.) 

We  turned  a  low  headland,  through  which  the  surf 
had  worn  away  a  rocky  entrance,  and  landed  on  the 
San  Pedro  beach.  (lUus.  224.)  The  situation  of  this 
village  is  very  different  from  that  of  Pale  in  the  North. 
There  the  houses  stand  in  long,  even  rows  on  the  plain 
behind  a  broad  stretch  of  sand ;  here  the  village  is 
built  at  the  entrance  of  a  narrow  gorge,  shut  in  by 
steep,  wooded  slopes,  surmounted  by  perpendicular 
precipices,  and  in  the  foreground  there  are  no  sand- 
banks but  a  beach  covered  with  volcanic  debris, 
rounded  by  the  surf.     Only  small,  light  boats,  such 


272      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

as  the  natives  use,  could  land  here  without  sustaining 
damage.  The  space  being  very  limited,  the  thatched, 
wooden  houses  are  crowded  irregularly  on  the  rising 
ground,  and  the  intervening  passages  are  narrow, 
twisted,  and  dirty.  The  numerous  black  hogs  that 
wander  about  between  the  houses  do  not  add  to  the 
general  cleanliness.  A  great  many  of  these  useful 
animals  are  reared  both  here  and  in  Santa  Cruz  on  the 
west  coast,  but  are  rarely  seen  in  the  capital  Pale. 

From  San  Pedro  we  had  no  great  difficulty  in  climbing 
Santa  Mina,  the  loftiest  and  most  beautiful  mountain 
in  the  island.  We  followed  a  steep  path  immediately 
behind  the  village  through  a  sparse  wood  of  oil  palms, 
which  are  used  for  the  preparation  of  palm  wine.  There 
were  also  numerous  wild  orange  trees,  whose  fruit  was 
as  sour  as  that  of  the  trees  growing  on  the  North 
Crater. 

Higher  up,  the  banana  plantations  betokened  the 
foggy  region.  In  one  place  we  saw  traces  of  wild  hogs, 
and  on  a  subsequent  ascent  we  met  some  natives  carrying 
a  young  boar  which  they  had  hunted  with  dogs  and 
killed  with  an  axe.  The  animal  closely  resembled 
his  brethren  in  the  village  of  San  Pedro.  The  epiphytic 
vegetation  that  we  saw  at  the  summit  defies  all  descrip- 
tion, and  far  surpassed  that  of  the  Quioveo.  We  were 
much  surprised  at  the  appearance  of  the  tree-ferns 
growing  at  the  summit  of  Santa  Mina.  Their  feeble 
and  crooked  stems  bore  scanty  and  distorted  fronds, 
blown  to  one  side  by  the  continuous  south-westerly 
winds.  It  is  strange  that  they  should  be  entirely 
wanting  on  the  Quioveo,  for  the  seeds  must  be  borne 
thither  by  the  wind  from  Santa  Mina,  and  yet  there 
was  not  a  single  example  to  be  seen. 

Fresh  masses  of  cloud  were  continually  driven  up 


222.   Summit  of  Santa  Mina. 


223.    Lava  cliffs. 


ANNOBON  278 

from  the  South,  and  the  view  was  seldom  clear  for  a 
moment. 

I  got  no  further  than  San  Pedro  and  Santa  Mina, 
but  Schultze  went  further  afield,  sometimes  by  boat, 
and  sometimes  by  land,  the  village  of  San  Antonio 
being  his  southernmost  point.  It  was  unfortunately 
impossible  to  make  a  circuit  of  the  island  by  boat, 
since  the  sea  was  too  heavy  off  the  south-west  and 
west  coasts.  But  there  was  plenty  to  do  on  the  North, 
for  here,  at  a  short  distance  from  our  camp,  the  lava 
cliffs  offered  a  rich  field  for  collecting  and  observing 
marine  animals  and  seaweeds.  When  the  lava  stream 
from  the  North  Crater  rushed  headlong  into  the  sea, 
its  boihng  masses  were  suddenly  cooled  by  the  water, 
and  cracked  into  splinters,  forming  a  labyrinth  of 
headlands,  islands,  and  cliffs,  whose  black  masses 
stand  out  clearly  against  the  white  foam  of  the  surf. 
(lUus.  225.) 

A  light  Hne  is  drawn  round  the  black  cliffs  and  shores 
of  Annobon ;  this  is  due  to  the  growth  of  a  pecuHar 
calcareous  sea-weed  or  Corallinacea,  which  at  low 
tide  is  just  washed  by  the  waves,  and  at  high  tide 
just  reaches  out  of  the  water.  It  is  related  to  the  red 
sea-weed  growing  on  the  shores  of  the  North  Sea, 
although  they  have  nothing  in  common  as  regards 
their  external  appearance,  the  Annobon  sea-weed 
rather  resembUng  the  animal  coral.  It  has  a  hard, 
stony  structure,  part  of  which  forms  a  crust  over  the 
rock,  and  part  displays  a  leafy  structure;  it  often 
collects  in  large  clumps  composed  of  numerous  inter- 
twining ramifications.  (lUus.  228.)  The  colour  varies 
from  a  dull  reddish  yellow,  or  a  dirty  greyish  yellow, 
to  a  deUcate  pink  or  deep  purple.  Where  it  is  exposed 
to  the  sun  the  colour  is  pale  and  bleached,  and  it  is 


274      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

strongest  and  purest  in  the  crusty  deposits  to  be  seen 
in  shady  grottos  and  channels  through  which  the 
water  washes. 

We  had  more  than  enough  time  for  wandering  along 
the  beach,  and  studying  marine  life.  On  the  5th  of 
October  we  gazed  eagerly  out  to  sea,  hoping  to  catch 
sight  of  the  smoke  of  the  Spanish  steamer  that  was  to 
fetch  us  away.  But  we  looked  in  vain.  We  learned 
later  in  Santa  Isabella  that  the  Governor  had  been 
willing  to  send  the  Prince's  Island  steamer  to  Annobon, 
but  that  the  sum  asked  for  thus  lengthening  the 
voyage  was  in  Herr  KruU's  opinion  too  high.  He 
accordingly  telegraphed  to  Hambiu-g  to  ask  that  a 
Cameroon  Government  steamer  might  be  sent  to 
fetch  us. 

We  soon  grew  very  tired  of  waiting.  We  had  every- 
thing that  we  could  desire  in  the  way  of  provisions: 
eggs,  fish,  bananas,  and  yams  in  abimdance,  and  the 
natives  were  most  friendly  and  ready  to  help  us  in  every 
possible  way.  Apart  from  the  plague  of  mosquitoes, 
the  Pale  shore  would  have  been  an  ideal  seaside  resort. 
It  was  the  uncertainty  that  we  found  so  trying,  and 
we  imagined  every  conceivable  reason  for  the  non- 
appearance of  the  steamer.  At  last  we  had  made  up 
our  minds  that  our  involuntary  Robinson  Crusade  on 
the  island  of  Annobon  would  last  until  the  beginning 
of  November,  when  the  Spanish  steamer  was  expected 
in  the  ordinary  course  of  events.  Early  on  the 
13th  of  October,  however,  our  "  boys "  roused 
us  with  the  welcome  cry :  "  Steamer  live  for 
come !  " 

A  vessel  was  indeed  coming  from  the  direction  of  St 
Thomas,  which  we  soon  recognised  as  the  Cameroon 
steamer  "  Nachtigal."    We  set  off  the  same  evening, 


ANNOBON  275 

and  on  the  morning  of  the  15th  of  October  we  steamed 
into  the  harbour  of  Santa  Isabella.  Om-  subsequent 
experiences  have  already  been  described  in  the  previous 
chapter,  namely  the  exploration  of  the  southern  part  of 
Fernando  Po,  and  the  ascent  of  the  Peak. 

I  will  close  with  a  few  remarks  respecting  the  history 
of  Annobon  and  its  inhabitants. 

About  three  hundred  years  ago  the  island  was  colon- 
ised with  negro  slaves  from  St  Thomas,  from  whom 
the  present  inhabitants  are  descended.  In  1778 
Annobon,  together  with  Fernando  Po,  was  annexed 
by  Spain.  But  the  expedition  of  Count  Argelejos 
under  Primo  de  Rivera  was  repulsed  by  the  Portuguese, 
who  asserted  that  they  had  long  been  in  possession 
of  the  island,  and  declared  themselves  ready  to  defend 
it  by  force  of  arms.  The  Spaniards  thereupon  with- 
drew, and  after  the  failure  of  this  expedition  they 
troubled  themselves  even  less  about  Annobon  than 
about  Fernando  Po. 

Soon  afterwards  the  Portuguese  must  have  abandoned 
it  of  their  own  free  will,  for  the  British  Niger  expedition 
of  1841  found  no  Europeans  on  the  island.  The  natives 
had  long  been  left  to  their  own  devices,  and  formed  a 
repubUcan  community  with  a  "Governor"  at  its 
head,  whose  term  of  office  always  lasted  until  ten 
ships  had  visited  the  island  ! 

The  reUgion  of  Annobon  was  a  mixture  of  Roman 
CathoKcism  and  fetishism.  There  was  a  church  a 
hundred  feet  in  length,  which  differed  however  from 
the  ordinary  dwelling  houses  only  in  its  size.  On  the 
top  of  the  Fogo,  which  Allen  named  "Pico  massa 
fina  "  there  stood  formerly  three  crosses. 

The  Spanish  expeditions  that  visited  Fernando  Po 
also  came  to  Annobon,  but  there  was  no  permanent 


276      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 

settlement  of  the  Spaniards  until  the  foundation  of 
the  Mission  in  the  year  1885. 

The  Mission  was  by  no  means  well  received.  The 
elders  of  the  little  repubUc  felt  that  their  authority 
was  threatened,  and  induced  the  population  for 
many  months  to  avoid  all  intercourse  with  the 
missionaries. 

Gradually  they  came  to  a  better  understanding,  but 
even  at  the  present  day  the  influence  of  the  Mission 
is  not  very  profound.  The  fact  that  the  natives  were 
already  Christians  was  more  of  a  hindrance  than  a 
help  ;  they  had,  as  they  have  to-day,  Httle  old  chapels 
scattered  all  over  the  island ;  they  had  their  "  iglesia 
parroquial  "  in  Pale,  and  they  had  their  black  "  cura  " 
who  preached  to  them  on  feast  days  and  baptised  their 
infants ;  they  had  therefore  no  use  for  the  Spaniards 
who  would  not  even  recognise  their  ancient  customs  as 
Christianity ! 

At  the  present  time  the  Mission  has  expanded,  at 
any  rate  outwardly.  (lUus.  216.)  The  whitewashed 
church  is  100  feet  long  and  40  feet  wide,  and  is  very 
tastefully  decorated.  The  roof  has  an  elaborate  cross- 
shaped  vault  made  of  wood.  Whilst  we  were  there 
a  large  dwelling  house  adjoining  the  church  was  nearing 
completion. 

We  were  very  favourably  impressed  by  the  natives, 
who  are  comparatively  industrious,  and  remarkably 
honest,  unlike  the  majority  of  liberated  slaves. 

The  population  is  between  1000  and  1500,  most 
of  whom  inhabit  the  capital  Pale ;  the  rest  live  in 
San  Pedro,  Santa  Cruz,  or  San  Antonio. 

The  men  busy  themselves  with  fishing  and  the 
preparation  of  palm  wine,  whilst  the  women  till  the 
fields.    All   the   morning   everyone   works   hard,    and 


227.    Cliffs  with  calcareous  algae. 


228.    Calcareous  algae  and  sea-urchins  in  a  flat  basin. 


229.    Steep  coast  to  the  east  with  cavern. 


230.   West  coast  with  Bird  Island,  slope  of  Quioveo. 


ANNOBON  277 

in  the  afternoon  they  rest.  Fishing  is  an  important 
source  of  food  for  the  inhabitants,  who  employ  Unes, 
nets,  and  harpoons  with  equal  skill.  With  the  latter 
they  transfix  the  sharks  and  sperm-whales  that  arrive 
in  shoals  at  certain  times  of  the  year. 


THE    END 


INDEX 


Ababua  tribe,  ii.  38, 44 

Abarambo  tribe,  i.  234 ;  iL  44 

Abari,  village  of,  L  121 

Abba,  ii  60,  61 

Abderahman,  ii.  64-69 

Abilela,  village  of,  L  69,  70-72 

Abugoie,  i.  73 

Acacia,  i.  53,  118,  119,  138,  140 

Adamaua,  i.  161,  162 

Adder,  puflf,  i.  119 

Afan,  village  of,  ii.  218,  219 

Afang,  village  of,  ii.  210,  211 

Aframomum,  ii.   106,  163,  177,  209, 
213,  220 

Afrostyrax  lepidophylla,  ii  136 

Aina  River,  ii  176 

Aisambuli,  village  of,  i  119 

Akak  Mountain,  ii  195,  196 

Akamayong,  village  of,  ii.  135,  136 

Akare  tribe,  i  219,  234 

"  Akom,"  ii  191 

Alima  River,  ii.  88,  89 

Amadi,  ii.  44 

Amaryllides,  ii.  81 

Ambajut,  i.  94 

Anderson,  ii.  26-29,  33-35 

Angali,  ii  220,  221 

Angrecum,  ii.  119 

Angu,  ii  6,  13-23,  26,  33,  34,  36-38 

Annobon,  island  of,  i   10 ;    ii.   235, 

245,  249,  263-277 
Ants,  i  214,  233 ;    ii  103,  104,  121, 

122   125 
Antelope,  i.  84,  180,  220,  239 ;  ii  30, 
105,  132,  241 

equine,  i  69,  120,  123  ;  ii.  60 

grass,  i  15,  64,  127  ;  ii  60 

large  stripewi,  i.  15  ;  ii  33 

saiga,  ii  60 

Ape,  i  233,  ii.  105 

Aoi  ii.  39—41 

Arabs,  i.  70,  89,  227,  234 ;  ii  60 

Archambault,  Fort,  i  34-38,  41,  43, 

179,  180 ;  ii.  3,  6 
Armadillo,  ii.  30,  141,  209 
Aruwimi  River,  ii  48,  118 


Asandes,  i   197,  210,  211,  221,  227, 

229,  230,  233 ;   ii  18,  40,  49,  69 
Aseng,  village  of,  ii.  199,  200 
Assobam,  ii  138-193 
Atakpame,  i  170,  172,  173 
Athi,  i.  88 
Avungura,  i  229, 233 


B 


Babanga  tribe,  i  13 

Baboons,  i  92,  159,  180,  206 

Bagana,  i  165 

Bagielli  dwarfs,  ii  220,  221 

Bagirmi,  i  26,  47.  71,  73,  75,  82,  83, 

89-91 
Bahr-el-Gebel,  i  240 
Bahr-el-Ghazal,  i    10,  50,   182,   218, 

221,  223,  237-240. 
Bahr  Keta  i.  181 

Nditi,  i  95 

Salamat,  i  181 

Sara,  i  41  ;  ii.  3,  6 

Bakango  tribe,  ii.  24,  38 

"Bal,'^i43 

Ba  Linea  River,  i  78 

Ba  Mbassa  River,  i,  81,  84 

Bambili,  ii.  14,  24 

Bana  tribe,  i  104-106 

Banana  (fruit),  ii.  6,  17,  48,  99,  138, 

187,  188,  272 
Banana,  town  of,  i  8 
Banda  tribe,  i  26,  187,  189,  199 
Bangala  tribe,  ii.  86 
Bangana  ii.  29,  33-35 
Bangandu  tribe,  ii.  100,  110,  122,  123, 

125   126—129 
Bangasau,  i.  196,  197,  199,  200,  207 ; 

ii  15-17 
Bange  jungle,  ii  128,  131,  132 

River,  ii.  133 

village  of,  ii  133,  134 

Bangi,  town  of,  i  10,  12,  16-19 
Bantu  tribes,  ii.  62.  81,  114.  140 
Banza  tribe,  i  13,  26 
Banziri  tribe,  i  26,   186,   187,   188; 
ii  8,  9. 

279 


280      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 


Banzyville,  i.  189, 190 ;  ii.  12 
Bareau,  Commandant,  ii.  20,  30,  42, 

69 
Barein,  i.  92 
Barrera,  Angel,  ii.  236 
Barteria,  ii.  122 
Basile,  ii.  236-239,  242,  253 
Bassa,  ii.  46,  56 
Bassina,  i.  202 
Bassiri  tribe,  i.  221,  229 
Bata,  town  of,  i.  7,  20 
Bates,  Mr,  ii.  183,  184 
Ba  Tha  River,  i.  86 
Bats,  ii.  189,  190,  267 
Baturi  River,  ii.  150 
Baumann,   Oskar,  ii.   229,   232,   237, 

250,  260-262 
Baya  tribe,  ii.  137 
Beecroft,  ii.  229,  231 
Bee-eater  bird,  i.  35  ;   ii.  104 
Bees,  1.  44  ;  ii.  76,  237 
Beetles,  ii.  102,  183 
Begonias,  ii.  214,  240 
Bellanda  tribe,  i.  229 
Bellila,  i.  92 
Belun,  village  of,  ii.  198 
Bengi  ordeal,  i.  203,  231 
Benito,  i.  7 

Benue  River,  i.  112,  162,  164,  166 
Berghe-Ste  Marie,  ii.  87 
Bessu,  i.  21,  186 
Bidjum,  ii.  173,  174 
Bienemayong,  village  of,  ii.  204,  205 
Bight  of  Biaira,  ii.  228 

Benin,  ii.  231 

Bili  River,  i.  196  ;   ii.  14,  16 

Bimbe  River,  ii.  213 

Binder,  i.  162 

Bitje,  village  of,  ii.  183-188 

Blackwater  fever,  L   120,   179,   188  ; 

ii.  37 
Bo  River,  i.  237 
Boar,  i.  120 

Boenga,  village  of,  ii.  125,  126 
Bokoko,  ii.  251,  252 
"Bol,"  i.  66,  95 
Boma,  town  of,  i.  6,  8,  9 
Bomanyoks,  ii.  115,  116 
Bombax,  ii.  77,  271 

Bomokandi  River,  ii.  44,  48  J 

Bondo,  u.  14,  15,  19-24  i 

Borassus  palm.  i.  101 ;   ii.  90,  152        | 
Bomu,  i.  47,  55,  56,  66,  67,  86,  95,  | 

133,  134,  146.  150,  151,  183 
Bows  and  arrows,  ii.  54  ; 

Boyd,  Alexander,  i.  45,  48,  55  ;  ii.  21,  j 

22   25   268 
Brazzaville,  L  11,  24,  198;   il  75,  82,  i 

84,  85,  89,  97  I 


Bretonnet,  i,  40 

Buaka  tribe,  i.  13,  25 

Bubi  tribe,  ii.  228,  230,  232,  243,  253, 

259-261 
Buck, roan,  L  118 

water,  i  15,  25,  220,  238 

wood,  i.  15 

Buduma,  i.  64-67 

Buea,  town  of,  i.  4,  5  ;  ii.  108,  233 

BufiFalo,  i.  11,  15,  25,  69,  85,  191,  192, 

221,  225,  226,  237-239 ;  ii.  53,  60, 

90,  105,  145,  146,  161 
Bule   tribe,    ii.    158,    159,    173,    175, 

177-180.  182,  185-187,  192,  194,  20ft 
Bumba  River,  ii.  100,  102,  126,  133, 

161,  163,  176 
Bumbum  tribe,  ii.  139,  162 
"  Bung-bung,"  ii.  175,  207 
Buraka  tribe,  i.  25,  187,  188 
Burial  ceremonies,  i.   Ill,  201,  231; 

ii.  57,  127,  128,  136 
Busso,  i.  94-98 
Butterflies,  ii.  76,  96,  102,  121,  145, 

149,  169,  179,  267,  vide  also  under 

Papilio. 


Camel,  i.  132,  136,  152 

Cameroon  Mountain,  Great,  i.  4,  5 ; 

u.  231 
Cameroons,  North,  i.  168 

South,  i.  10 ;  ii.  75,  100 

Campo,  ii.  208,  210,  211 

Canna  indica,  ii.  119 

Cannibals,  i.  32,  200,  204 ;   ii.  49,  57, 

92,  94,  114,  128,  134,  146,  158,  167, 

170,  175 
Carving,  ii.  54,  192 
Cassada,  ii.  99,  174,  261,  265 
Caterpillars,  ii.  159,  160 
Cattle,  i.  67,  107  ;  111,  125, 160;  ii.  6, 

48 
Cemetery,  ii.  78,  94,  100 
Chalak,  i.  66,  95,  121 
Chenal,  ii.  86,  88 
Chimpanzee,    i.    15,    195,    221,    232; 

ii.  106,  156,  157,  189 
Chinko  River,  i.  199,  209 
Clarence  Peak,  ii.  231 

town,  ii.  229,  231 

Cobra,  ii.  137 

Cockroaches,  ii.  103 

Cocoa,  ii.  97,  236-239,  250,  251,  257, 

259,  269 
Coffee,  ii.  259 

Coll,  Bishop,  ii.  230,  232,  236,  254 
Colobus,  ii.  107,  161 
Combretum,  ii.  76 


INDEX 


281 


*'  Commandant  Lamy,"  8.S.,  ii.  85, 90, 96 
Concepcion  Bay,  ii.  232,  250,  257,  260 
Congo  River,  i.  8,  10-12,  232 ;   ii.  6, 

75,  80,  87-89,  117 
Congo  State,  i.  8,  118,  177,  191 
Coquelin,  Mons.,  i.  27-29,  224 ;   ii.  37 
Cordillera  Mnts,  ii.  232,  256 
"  Corisco,"  8.8.,  ii.  230,  233 
Cormorant,  i.  35,  53 
Comae,  ii.  40,  41 
Cotelle,  Father,  i.  21,  186 
Crampel,  Fort,  i.  21,  34,  35,  179-181, 

184 ;  ii.  7 
Cranes,  i.  84,  122,  126,  138 
Crater,  Lake,  ii.  265,  268.  269 
Crocodile,  i.  11,  17,  36,  62,  134,  206> 

214,  220,  222  ;   ii.  31,  92,  108 
Cross,  Capt.,  i.  36,  37  ;  ii.  3-5,  10 
Cruyssen,  Comm.  van  der,  i.  12,  190 
Cuvry,  de,  ii.  100 


Dahihere  tribe,  i.  84,  89 
Dalugene,  village  of,  ii.  150,  167 
Dancing,  i.  32,  43,  44,  52,  117,  231  ; 

ii.  43,  113,  140,  178,  206 
Darter,  bird,  i.  35,  53,  145 
"  Dead  "  jungle,  iL  129,  155,  181,  182 
"  De  Brazza,'^  s.8.,  ii.  96,  97 
Delegado,  ii.  264,  265 
Dikoa,  tovm  of,  i.  62,  126,  136,  146, 

147-149,  152,  153 
Djabir,  ii.  14,  19 
Djah  River,  ii.  95-97,  100,  109,  177, 

180,  183,  207 
Djogto,  1.  100  101 
Djukun  Mnt.,  ii.  188,  189 
Dog,  i.  135,  137,  152  ;  u.  49 
Dongo,  Falls  of,  i.  20  ;  ii.  108 
Dove- Bey,  ii.  61-64 
Duala,  i.  5,  9 ;   ii.  233,  234 
Duck,  i.  35,  52,  62,  84,  124,  126,  128 ; 

ii.  8,  42 

wattle,  i.  132 

Ducker  (small  antelope),  i.   70,   118, 

120   138 
Duisburg,  Lt.  von,  i.  129,  148,  149, 

152,  153 
Duke  of  Mecklenburg,  i.  3-8,  11,  27, 

34,  36,  41,  50,  54,  120-123,  134,  139, 

163, 238  ;  ii.  5, 169 
Duma,  i.  13,  15 
Dumba,  village  of,  ii.  135,  136 
Dume  River,  i.  214  ;  ii.  176 
Dungu,  ii.  43,  59,  60,  64 
Dyeing,  ii.  139,  177 


E 

Eagle,  i.  35,  161  ;  ii.  8 

Ebayegga,  iL  114,  115,  172 

Ebolowa,  ii.  108,  165-223 

"  Ebui,"  ii.  178,  192 

"  Edea,"  s.s.,  i.  6,  7 

Ekomeno,  ii.  159,  172,  194,  243,  269 

Ekuk,  village  of,  ii.  193,  195,  196 

Eland,  i.  120  ;  ii.  60 

"  Eleonore  Woermann  "  8.8.,  i.  3  ;  ii. 
227 
I  Elephant,  i.  11,  15,  27-29,  136,  189. 
192,  195,  206,  209,  214,  215,  221, 
222.  237-239 ;  ii.  39-42,  53,  60,  64- 
69,  141,  144,  201,  209,  211 
I  Elk,  i.  118;  ii.  60 

Endendem,  village  of,  ii  201,  203 

Etumbamingi,  ii.  25,  26,  32,  34,  35 

Euphorbia,  i.  101,  112 


Fashoda,  i.  10,  225,  240 

Fernando  Po,  island  of,  i.  4,  10 ;   ii. 

227-262 
Ferns,  ii.  118,  119,  125,  143,  179,  209, 

240,  267,  272 
Ferrando,  Pater,  ii,  264 
Flies,  i.  93  ;  ii.  81 
Fogo,  Pico  do,  ii.  264-269 
Forcados,  i.  166,  167 
Formosa,  island  of,  ii  228,  262 
Francolin,  i.  119 
Friedrich,  Herr,  ii.  251,  252 
Fulbes,  i.  89,  111,  112 
Fullahs,  i.  149,  161 
Funck,  Herr,  iL  139.  161,  162 


Gabak,  L  90,  95 

Gabri  tribe,  L  100,  101 

Garua,  town  of,  L  62,  98,  112.  162, 

163,  164 
Gaudin,  Capt.,  i.  16,  17 
GazeUe.  i.  62,  84.  92,  115,  118,  119, 

124 
Geese,  L  62,  124,  126,  128.  237 :  il  8 
Giraffe,  L  56,  69,  70,  101,  136,  238, 

239 ;  ii.  60 
Glossina  morsitans,  i.  35 

palpaUs,  i.  12,  220,  iL  14,  77.  213 

Goat,  ii.  6,  48,  104 

Goliath  beetle,  ii.  183 

Gorilla,  L  15  ;  iL  96,  105-107,  126, 144, 

146.  166,  157,  168,  209 


282      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 


Gosling,  Capt.,  ii.  6,  21,  22,  2 
Graf,  Herr,  ii.  137,  139,  158 
Granaries,  i.  100,  109 
Grasshoppers,  i.  76  ;  ii.  179,  198 
Gribingi  River,  L  10,  34,  35 
Gubere,  i.  221,  223,  229 
Guinea-fowl,  L  35, 237  ;  ii.  50, 141 

Isles,  ii.  223,  227,  231,  233,  2  5, 

262 
Gulfei,  town  of,  i.  61,  74,  135,  136,  149 


Haberer,  Dr.  L  10,  15,  33  34,  62,  70, 

77,  96,  97,  107,  111,  115,  119-122, 

129,  134,  139,  163,  167,  168,  179; 

ii  169 
Hairdressing,  i.  161,  187,  191 ;   iL  51, 

147,  151,  180,  192,  198,  199 
Ham,  i.  104,  105 
Harmattan,  i.  139,  152 
Hartebests,  i.  84 
Haussas,  i.  89,  90,  146,  149 ;   ii.  122, 

123,  149,  151 
Heims,  Herr,  i.  16,  33,  34,  62,  69,  167, 

168,  171,  172 ;  ii.  169 
Heron,  i.  35,  53,  124,  126 ;  ii.  8,  93 
Hippopotamus,  i.   10,  108,   145,  214, 

215 ;   ii.  108,  161 
Hog,  i.  70,  72,  118,  120,  143,  189; 

ii.  161,  251,  267,  272 
Holy  Ghost,  Fathers  of  the,  i.  21,  186 
Hospital,  i.  166,  193  ;  ii  79,  82 
Hyena,  i.  15,  93,  122,  124,  143,  157, 

158 
Hyena  dog,  L  62, 94, 136, 137, 142, 143 


Ibis,  i.  53,  126 ;  ii.  8 

India-rubber,   i.    194,   198,   204,   224, 

229  ;  ii.  19,  28,  70,  99,  115,  120,  132, 

135,  136,  140,  149 
Irena,  i.  35,  180 
Iron,  i.  107,  108,  124,  194,  195,  203 ; 

ii.  54,  123 
Ivory,  L  194,  198,  203,  204,  224,  229, 

238  ;  iL  19,  52,  60,  70,  115 


"  Jacques  d'Uzte."  8.s.,  i.  75,  179 

Josephine,  L  56 

Junker,  Herr  Wilhelm,  i.  197 ;   ii.  45 


K 


Kaba  tribe,  i.  102,  104,  105 

Kabo,  i.  42,  180 

Kadei  River,  iL  150,  151-153 

Kaka  tribe,  ii.  150,  151,  167 

Kalchoa,  village  of,  L  119,  120 

Kanem,  i.  40,  47,  146 

Kanuris,  L   115,  119,  139,  146,  148, 
149,  151 

KaoUn,  u.  177,  186 

Kamak,  town  of,  i.  116,  117,  149 

Kemo  River,  i.  20,  21,  182 

Khartoum,  L  239  ;   ii.  7,  60,  71 

Kimuenza,  ii.  76,  77,  80-82 

Kinshassa,  L  9,  10,  12 ;  iL  75,  76,  84, 
122 

Koch,  Herr,  ii.  108,  110,  112,  144 

Koki,  ii.  27,  30,  31 

KoUe,  L  83,  86 

Koloka,  u.  213,  217 

"  Konig,"  S.S.,  L  175,  176  ;   u.  233 
i  Kotoko,  i.  72,  74,  146 
i  Kribi,  ii.  194,  218,  221,  223,  233 

Krull,  Herr,  L  4 ;  u.,  227,  234,  249, 
I      270,  274 
;  Kukuma,  ii.  206,  220 
I  Kunabembe  tribe,  u.   100,   120,   122, 
i      128,  133-136,  168,  222 
'  Kusseri,  town  of,  i.  41,  47,  50,  52,  54, 
I      61,  74,  76,  82,  115,  129,  147,  152 


Labarre,  Capt.  de,  ii.  36,  37 

Lagos,  L  168,  169 

Lai,  L  97-99,  102,  103 

Lamido,  L  109,  112,  161 

Lamy,  Fort,  L  46,  47,  50,  54-56,  75, 

76,  179 
Largeau,  CoL,  i.  75-77,  181 
Lau,  ii.  147,  148 
Lava  fields,  ii.  142,  144 
liCgbe,  iL  50,  54,  55 
"  Leon  Blott,"  s.s.,  i.  36,  46,  57,  61, 

65,  133,  135,  139,  179 
Leopard,  i.  15,  157,  158 ;  IL  162,  175, 

207,  217 
Leopoldville,  i.  9,  11 ;  iL  79,  82 
Lere,  L  109,  111 
Libenge,  L  11,  12,  15,  16,  33 
Likati,  L  15  ;  iL  24,  37,  38 
Likilemba,  ii.  94,  95 
Likuala  River,  ii.  87,  90. 
Lioness  Simba,  L  124,  135,  137,  143, 

152,  156,  158,  176 
Lions,  L   45,  93,   101,   136,   165;    iL 

175,  176,  207,  208,  212 


INDEX 


283 


Lobe  River,  ii.  218,  219,  222 
Logone  River,  i.  50,  75,  103,  105,  106, 

116,  119,  125 
Lokomo  River,  IL  126,  129,  130 
Lome,  i.  167,  169,  170,  173,  175,  176 
Lomie,  ii,  155,  156,  162,  167,  169,  171, 

173 
Lukaya  River,  ii.  76,  77,  81 
Lupi  River,  ii.  100,  102,  109,  117 


M 


Macleod,  Miss,  i.  55,  66 

Mandara  ilnts.,  i.  135,  152,  156-158 

Mandja  tribe,  i.  26,  30,  31,  32 

Mandjafa,  town  of,  i.  40,  46,  120,  179 

Mangbettu  tribe,  ii.  39-58,  139 

Maniling,  i.  121,  122,  179 

Mao-Kebbi  River,  i.  108,  109,  162 

Mao  Lede  River,  i.  108,  109 

Mao  Pe  River,  i.  109 

Marabout,  i.  84,  126  ;  ii.  8 

Masaalit  tribe,  i.  48,  49,  85,  181 

Matadi,  i.  8-10 

M'bio,  village  of,  ii.  153,  155 

Mbomu  River,  i.   10,  192,   199,  204, 

209,  210,  212,  213,  216,  220,  221 
Medicine  Man,  ii.  Ill,  112,  164, 168 
Melfi,  i.  83,  84,  87,  88,  90,  92,  94,  97 
Miidbraed,  Dr,  1.  10  ;  ii  75,  79,  81-83, 

90,  91,  110,  117,  133,  139,  140,  143- 

157,  161-164,  168,  172,  173,  191 
Mimulopsis  violacea,  ii.  247,  255 
Mi-Ssanga  tribe,  ii.  92,  94,  96,  99,  100, 

108,  112,  113,  116,  122,  127,  128 
Mobatti  tribe,  ii.  27,  31 
Mobaye,  i.  184,  185,  187,  189 ;   ii.  7, 

8,  11,  12 

MUe,  i.  189,  190 

Molundu.    i.    10,   ii.    75-98,   99-117, 

119,  132,  148 
MoU,  CoL,  i.  45,  48,  49,  75,  102,  181 
Memos,  ii.  139,  140 
Monga,  i.  196 ;  ii.  14,  16,  16 
Monkey,  i.  157,  158 ;    u.  30,  41,  42, 

92,  107,  127 
Mora,  i,  136,  162,  166-161 
Moritz,  Herr,  ii.  227,  234, 235,  243,  247 
Mosquitoes,  i.  170,  220,  239;   ii.  14, 

77,  85,  131,  138,  219 
"  Mowe  "  S.S.,  i.  173,  176 
Mundane,  i.  109-111 
Munza,  King,  ii.  43,  46, 
Musa,    ii.    120,    133-135,    162,    201, 

215-217 
Musgum  tribe,  i.  101,  115,  120,  121, 

123,  125.  126 
Musola,  ii.  238,  262,  253 


N 


Nachtigal,  IL  23,  274 

Nana,  i.  33,  34 

Ndele,  town  of,  L  37,  49 ;   ii.  6 

Nderesia,  village  of,  i.  100,  101 

N'dzimu  tribe,  ii.  100,  122,  157,  158, 

162,  166,  168,  173,  186 
Nebi,  1.  110,  112 
Ngala,  i.  62,  135,  147 
N^amdio,  Mnt.,  iL  151,  152 
N'gi  ceremonial,  ii.  167,  168 
N'ginda,  iL  110,  127,  128,  130 
N'goila,  ii.  86,  96 

Niam-Niam  tribe,  i.  197,  210 ;    ii.  18 
Niangara,  iL  22,  23,  43-^5,  59 
Niellim,  i.  43,  44,  45  ;  iL  3,  6,  21 
Niger  River,  i.  165,  167 
NUe   River,   L    128,    183,    198,   240; 

ii.  6,  59-71 
N'kolengondum  Mnt.,  ii.  200 
N'kololoma  Mnt.,  iL  200,  202 
N'kolowong  ilnt.,  ii.  205,  207 
N'kolumbembe  Mnt.,  ii.  213-215 
N'kolumbinde,  iL  195,  202,  204,  213 
N'kolumwini  Mnt.,  ii.  208,  209,  213 
No  Lake,  L  239,  240 
Nsakkara,  tribe  i.  197,  199,  200-205, 

231 
N'tem  River,  iL  194,  198,  207,  208 
N'yem  tribe,  ii.  165, 168, 174, 177, 180, 

186 


Odjimo,  ii.  124,  125 

OU  palm,  iL  180,  203,  266,  266,  269, 

272 
Okapi,  L  182  ;  U.  6,  22,  24-38 
Oranges,  ii.  266,  266,  272 
Ostriches,  L  71,  138 
Owong,  village  of,  iL  205-213 


Pale,  iL  264,  269,  274,  276 

Palime,  L  170-172 

Pallah,  L  69,  127,  128 

Pambia  tribe,  i.  229-235 

Pangwe  tribe,  iL  168,  185,  197-199, 

203,  206 
Pantoga,  Julio,  ii.  235,  236.  270 
Papilio  antimachus,  ii.96,  179 

machaon,  ii.  149,  179 

zalmoxis,  ii.  93 

Papyrus,  i.  64,  146  ;   ii.  88 
Parrot,  L  35 ;  ii.  50,  104 


284      FROM  THE  CONGO  TO  THE  NIGER 


Peak,  The,  ii.  231-237,  241,  245-250 
Pelican,  i.  126  ;   ii.  8 
Peum,  village  of,  ii.  128-130 
Pfanemakok,  ii.  204,  210,  215,  216 
Phrynium,  ii.  115,  119,  148 
Pig,  ii  42,  43,  48 
Planitz,  Lt.  von  der,  ii.  108,  109 
Possel,  Fort,  i.  10, 19-21, 179, 181-187  ; 

ii.  7,  8,  12 
Primo  de  Rivera,  Lt„  il  228,  275 
Prince's  Isle,  ii.  235,  236,  263 
Pygmies,  ii.   98,   114-116,   140,   141, 

168,  172,  221 


Quioveo,  ii.  269,  270,  272 


R 


Rabeh,  i.  26,  38-41,  44,  47,  82,  91, 

102,  117,  146-149 
Raben,  Lt  von,  i.  52,  54,  76,  115,  122, 

123,  131,  153 
Rafai,  i.  209-214 
Raphia  palm,  ii.   99,   113,   124,   126, 

151,  163,  177 
Rat,  ii.  30,  267 

Redjaf,  i.  240 ;  ii.  45,  63,  64,  69,  70 
Rhinoceros,  i.  53,  69,  84,  101,  121, 

122  ;  ii.  60,  90 

bird,  ii.  93,  114,  121 

Roder,  Sgt.-Maj.,  i.  16,  33-36,  50,  62, 

69,  120,  122,  134,  141,  150-153 
Rotang,  ii.  64,  88,  90,  118,  198,  209 


S 


Salt,  i.  65,  67,  70 

Samali  ceremonies,  i.  31,  32 

Samba,  ii.  149,  150,  161 

San  Antonio,  ii.  273,  276 

Carlos,  ii.  245,  246,  250-254,  257, 

259    263 
Sandp'iper,  i.  62  ;   ii.  90,  145 
Sangmelima,  ii.  173,  189-191 
Sango  tribe,  i.  13,  188 
Santa  Cruz,  ii.  268,  272,  276 
Isabella,  i.  4 ;  ii.  227-238,  246, 

257,  274,  275 

Mima,  ii.  270-273 

Sara  tribes,  i.  27,  41-43,  47  ;   ii.  4,  5 

St  Helena,  ii.  267 

St  Thomas,  i.  7,  10 ;  ii.  227,  235,  236, 

257,  259,  263,  267,  274,  275 
Schubotz,  Dr..  i.  12, 13,  15,  33,  35,  50, 

179,  181,  198,  240 ;   ii.  103 


Schultze,  Dr,  i.  10;  ii.  242-247,  249, 

263,  269 
Schweinfurth,  Geo.,  i.  197  ;  ii.  45-47, 

49,  118,  139 
Sebito,  village  of,  ii.  203,  204 
Serval,  i.  124,  135 
Shari  River,  i.  10,  43,  54,  69,  73,  75, 

98,  99,  115,  125,  138,  180;   ii.  3-12 
Shilluks,  i.  240  ;   ii.  62 
Shoa  Arabs,  i.  47,  71,  117,  138,  140, 

144,  146,  147,  149 
Sibut,  Fort,  i.  21,  29,  33, 179,  181,  182 
Siluroid  fish,  i.  108 
Sleeping  sickness,  i,  8,  171,  191,  193, 

194,  200,  219,  220,  224,  227  ;  ii.  13, 

14,  63,  77,  87,  258 
Snake,  ii.  104,  111,  136,  137,  153,  154 
Sogebafam,  ii.  217,  218 
Soudan,  i.  198,  235,  240 ;  ii.  62,  63 
Squirrel,  ii.  30,  105 
Ssanga  River,  i.  10,  12 ;  ii.  75,  89-91 
Sso  ceremonial,  ii.  185,  186 
Stanley,  ii.  75,  118,  129 
Stanleypool,  ii.  75-98,  122 
Stephenson,  Capt.,  i.  227,  228,  235 
Stork,  i.  209  ;  u.  165 
Sultan  Bangassu,  i.  199 

Beringa,  i.  199 

Djagara,  i.  61,  63,  72,  74,  129, 

139 

Dudmurrah,  i.  49 

Garuang,  ii  40,  77,  78,  81 

Hetman,  i.  210-214 

Labassu,  i.  200,  201 

Mai-Buka,  i.  50,  51,  76,  129,  134 

Mohammed   Senussi,   i.    37,   50, 

89  ;  ii.  5 

Ndekkere,  ii.  19 

Ngurru,  ii.  18,  19 

Omar,  i.  129,  152,  153 

Okondo,  ii.  43,  45-47 

Sanda,  i.  129,  133,  134,  153 

Semio,  i.  215-222,  229 

Togbau,  i.  43,  46 

Sunstroke,  i.  225 


Tambura,  i.  226-229,  235-237 
Tchad,  Lake,  i.  10,  61,  62,  64,  68,  80, 

144,  147,  168 
Tchekna,  i.  77-83,  90 
Teneriffe,  i.  3,  176 
Togo,  i.  168  ;  ii.  11 
Tomi  River,  i.  21,  182 
Tornado,  i.  96,  99,  106,  154,  156,  165, 

186,  207 ;  ii.  91,  109,  138,  158 


INDEX 


285 


Tsetse  flies,  i.  25,  73,  180,  200 ;  u.  49, 

78,  81,  89,  110 
Turacou  (bird),  i.  35  ;  ii,  121 


Ubangi  River,  i.   10-15,  20,  21,  60, 

183,   187-192,  204,  207,  208,  229; 

ii.  3-12,  22, 75 
Uelle  River,  i.  192, 195, 199,  232  ;  ii.  3, 

6,  12,  19,  24,  31,  39,  44,  59 
UmbreUa  tree,  76,  173,  177 
Undene,  ii.  107,  173,  175,  176,  191, 

201,  206,  207-209,  213-216 


"  Valerie,"  s.s.,  i.  10-12  ;  ii.  75 
Vivour's  Farm,  ii.  252,  253,  258 
Vulture,  i.   92,   122,   140,   158,  205 
iL  8,  69 

W 

Wadai,  i.  40,  47-49,  65,  75,  88,  181 
ii  5 


Warra  River,  i.  213,  215,  221 
Wau,  i.  236-238 

River,  i.  235,  237 

Wiese,  Capt.  von,  i.  119  ;   ii.  6,  7,  71, 

169 
Wulgo,  J.  135,  140,  145,  146 


Yakoma,  i.   15,  190-196;    u.  7,  12, 

13-15 
Yei,  ii.  61-63 
Yendi,  ii.  145,  181 
Yola,  i.  164,  165 
Yukaduma,  ii.  110,  118-164 


Zanga,  i.  187 
Zamba  tribe,  i.  195 
Zegi,  i.  202 
Zerbini,  Dr,  ii.  13 
Ziber,  i.  38,  39 
Zingara,  i.  219 
Zosterops,  ii.  267 


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